HMS Bellerophon 1786 by fake johnbull - Amati/Victory Models - 1/72

[fake johnbull]

Hi ladies and guys,

 

After old contents of MSW were lost, I haven’t much time to restore my building log. Perhaps the reason why I couldn’t have been managed any spare time is my habit of laziness. But some sense of diligence in my heart finally won against laziness and it’s time to restore and restart my log. My restoration of log is based on “cut and paste” workings from old contents salvaged from google cache or from my computer. So some remains of “patch work” would be unavoidable. It would be appreciated that readers allow some inconvenience in my log.

 

 

The kit

 

English 74 gun ships are one of my favourite types of ships. It is often said that 74 gun ships are good compromise of power and manoeuvrability. I think this can be equally said to their appearance. To my eyes they have both of majesty of ships of the line and swiftness of frigates. Anyhow they are beautiful ships.

 

Before the release of Amati/Victory Models Vanguard kit, the only commercially available kit of English 74 was HMS Bellona from Corel as far as I know. This is popular kit but I often heard modellers had to take many efforts to build more correct model from that kit. Also modellers may feel frustration to build precise replica in relatively small 1/100 scale, although it doesn’t take much space for building and display. So I determined to buy Vanguard kit soon after I found it on the internet. Coincidentally my purchase place is online-hobbies.com. I didn’t know this shop is operated by kit designer Chris Watton and his wife till I received order confirmation mail from them.

 

As can be seen on many modellers’ building log, Vanguard is very popular kit. While this is the kit of 3rd rate ship, its quality is definitively 1st rate. Of course modellers may find something to be improved, but it would be easier than improving Corel Bellona.

 

Amongst three sister ship options provided in the kit, I choose Bellerophon because of her distinguished service career. Maybe she is one of most famous 74 and many forum members would have experience to read “The Billy Ruffian” written by David Cordigly.

 

In the next posting I will start log from construction of dummy frames.

[fake johnbull]

Building board and dummy frames

 

 

I’m sorry that I didn’t take picture of dummy frames building, but photo shows building board I used. You may detect what I intended from this picture. Brackets of amidships are holding joining section of dummy keel securely. The heights of these brackets are determined not to interfering horizontal bulkhead. Upper portion of aft brackets are cut to stepping shape to clear after end counter areas of gun port patterns. Because of amidships brackets, this board can’t be used after building process entered to planking.

 

 

 

Next stage is building of dummy frame. Jointing section of dummy keel is reinforced with excess of MDF hostsheet from both sides and bolted.

 

 

 

 

To keep bulkheads right angle to dummy keel, square dowels are glued to jointing corners.

 

 

 

Bow or stern fillers cut and shaped from Japanese white magnolia. Other fillers between bulkheads are shaped from balsa, but they became useless later. I will tell the reason later. BTW outline of stern fillers are shaped slightly larger than neighbouring No. 16 bulkhead. First planks of lime wood are relatively wide and thick (7mm x 1.5mm). It would be difficult to create shape of transom with this wood, I determined to terminate first planks at No. 16 bulkhead so that planks continuing to stern filler smoothly. Later these areas are covered with second planks.

Edited March 24, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Upper gun deck planking

 

It would be natural desire for every modeller to build his or her model authentically, although the degree to seek authenticity maybe defer from someone to another. For deck planking I want to add some authenticity to arangement of butts. It is difficult to represent deck planks with precisely scaled down width as far as using commercially available material. But positions of butts are easily determined from positions of beams of actual ship.

 

To determine deck beam position I downloaded fairly large size jpeg images of upper deck plan of Dragon/Superb which was available from National Maritime Museum Collection Online at that time. Unfortunately only small size jpeg images are available from NMM site now.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81153.html

 

Designer Chris Watton said me he referred mainly hull and deck lines of Elephant when he designed the kit.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80861.html

 

Elephant plan on NMM site was very small one. So I used upper deck plan of Dragon instead. Dragon is belonging to Bellona class and slightly differing to Arrogant class. But both were common class 74 gun ships designed by great designer Sir Thomas Slade and their basic dimensions are identical. Main differences between these classes are only underwater lines of bow and stern as far as I know. So I thought it would be safe to use Dragon plan to determine deck beam positions. It seems that NMM jpeg plans available at that time were scanned from original 1/48 plan by 72dpi. So theoretically precise 1/72 plan can be available by changing its dpi from 72 to 108 without any changing of whole pixel size with Adobe Photoshop or other raster software. Actually small size adjustment was required to match kit dimension. After resizing finished, plan is printed to paper. Maximum paper size of my printer is A3 so tiled printing and re-jointing of printed papers are required, but they aren't great problem.

 

 

BTW while I marked beam positions to dummy deck, I found slight difference of capstan positions and size of hatch openings between plan and kit. To my enquiry Chris Watton suggested me possible difference between classes (and even with ships of same class). After much consideration I determined modify these positions match to Dragon plan. Perhaps I’m doing what Chris doesn’t expect to builder, but I thought it would give me more personal satisfaction to follow Dragon plan.

 

 

 

I didn’t take pictures of planking work, but it is very straightforward work, although some description would be help of readers. I purchased 0.5mm x 3mm maple strips from Cornwall Model Boats and replaced kit tanganyika. Caulking between planks is represented by mechanical pencil. I used four butt shifting method. Planks between hatch openings have no butt.

 

 

 

Treenails are represented by filling wood putty to hole opened by Urawa mini router and 0.5mm drill. Please note that butts and treenails are running in line with hatch coamings.

 

Making gratings and coamings are also straightforward works. But I made them to the size and shape of Dragon plan. Actually widths of forward and aft hatch coamings are tapered toward both ends. But I gave up representing them because it means scratch building of gratings. I also add dummy beams and carlings under coamings for more realistic appearance. They are applied with ebony colour Watco oil. Gratings are applied with natural colour Watco oil. I also add capstan bases with excess walnut ply and applied them with ebony colour oil.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[RiverRat]

Hi ladies and guys,

 

Perhaps the reason why I couldn’t have been managed any spare time is my habit of laziness. But some sense of diligence in my heart finally won against laziness .......... It would be appreciated that readers allow some inconvenience in my log.

 

Sounds much like me nowadays! Carry on, if you feel like it................

 

Brian

[fake johnbull]

Upper gun deck inner bulwark, gun port pattern

 

Before starting describing about bulwark construction, I want to mention about my try to represent margin planks briefly. In small scale models, I feel no need to represent margin planks. But Vanguard kit is relatively large model and they would give more authentic appearance to the model.

 

I cut 0.5mm maple sheet to shape of gunwale with 6mm width. Margin planks are divided to four sections and joined and hooked each other. They are glued to inside of “top timbers” of bulkheads simultaneously with deck plank working. But I have to confess that I completely forget to consider that thickness of bulwark is increasing because of tumblehome inclination. After finishing of bulwark installation, I found there varying width of margin plank. Only I can is hoping these error hidden by guns, foc's'le and quarter deck. For more accurate looks, installation of waterways and spirketting is desirable. But I gave up them because they will reduce the width of margin planks furthermore. Anyhow these are lessons for tomorrow. I will do more correctly in next build.

 

 

Installing of gun deck bulwark is again straightforward work, but this time I pre-bent them with steam and heat. Also I pre-painted lowest strake in red before installation to prevent red paint spoiling deck. But it didn't work well because I had to sand bulwark smoothly after their installation finished. After all I painted red colour with masking tape to the deck. Red paint is Humbrol enamel mixed to ratio suggested by Chris's instruction manual.

 

 

Before proceeding to upper gun port patterns, I glued foc’s’le and quarter deck beams to their positions to reinforce top timbers. But installing main mast bits should be done firstly because aft pairs are beneath beam. Before installation I add some decorative mould to top of bits.

 

 

Next step is gluing upper gun port patterns. After plywood patterns were soaked and softened I firstly fixed forward edge of forward patterns to beakhead bulkhead. Then I glued and clamped patterns to other bulkhead top timbers with wooden pegs and brass pins. Then aft patterns are following forward patterns. BTW patterns have tendency to return to their original plane shape. It causes “bumping and hollowing” after patterns dried. I resolved these problems by inserting spacer between patterns and inner bulwarks.

 

 

After bumping resolved I start gun port openings of inner bulwark. I outlined opening with pencil as suggested in instruction, but great care is required not to mark them to wrong place. If I had “waterline height gauge”, marking would be easy task. But I did it by manually and it causes outline marked underneath than they should be. Perhaps I was misled by inclination of tumblehome. Eventually I did mistake to open gun port wrongly in initial few openings. After noticed these errors I “patched” lower openings and cut upper portions. Again I hope these errors hidden after guns are rigged.

 

Before proceeding to gun port sill, I tested dry fitting of 18pdr guns. I will describe about them at next post.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[mort stoll]

Welcome back I look forward to more of your posts. Your build log was fantastic.

 

Mort

[KARAVOKIRIS]

Mitsuaki, I'm glad you decided to post your build log again. 

I'll follow it with great interest. 

 

Kostas

[fake johnbull]

Test Dry fitting of 18pdr guns

 

One of pleasure in model making process is imagining completed shape. Maybe many modellers agree that test dry fitting is providing us one kind of these pleasures, although it would be time of patience in the case of bad fitting kit.

 

I also like dry fitting so I ranged 18pdr guns of the kit soon after I finished opening of inner bulwark gun port.

 

 

But I soon found that gun barrels of forward sections are projecting from lower portion of gun port and those of aft sections from upper portion of gun ports. Maybe gun port would be destroyed by gun muzzle when recoiling backward.

 

 

To resolve these problems, I altered kit gun carriages. For carriages of forward sections, I lowered breech quoins with Proxxon router to elevate gun barrels. For carriages of midship sections I lowered both of trunnion holes and quoins, then lowered trunnion holes and filed bottom of trucks for aft sections. This solution seems to be instant and not beautiful, but perhaps one of effective ways if using kit gun carriages. If I could be benefited by help of more elaborate electric tools, I would try scratch building of gun carriages. But I have only three electric tools, Proxxon router, Urawa mini router and cheep Ryobi hand drill, so I try utilizing kit carriages.

 

 

Hindsight

 

After I finished this rather instant work, I compared kit plan and NMM Edgar plan I downloaded and resized.

 

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80682.html

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/80681.html

 

 

Photo is showing possibility of deck height problem of the kit. This difference caused me to decide checking basic design of the kit furthermore. In next post I will describe my try to kit bashing. 

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Brian, Mort and Kostas,

 

Thank you for your kind words and quick reply  I will continue restoring of my log today. Please enjoy them.

 

Regards, 

[fake johnbull]

Improving of hull shape

 

As my building was progressing, I felt some concern on basic design of the kit. So I determined to check basic shape of kit hull lines. After I finished dummy frames, I applied “batten” in fore and aft direction to several height of the hull and trimmed or increased bulkhead edges as every builders may do. I was enough happy at that time, but after I noticed possible problem of deck height I decided to check basic hull shape of the kit.

 

 

Firstly I compared kit plan and Edgar plan then station letters and numbers of Edgar plan are transferred to corresponding bulkhead positions on kit plan. Then kit bulkhead numbers are transferred to Edgar body plan referring original station letters and numbers.

 

 

Lastly I applied Edgar body plan to kit bulkhead. By this checking I noticed that kit bulkhead underwater outlines of after sections are taken from next aft station line of actual hull lines. Bulkheads of forward sections are also slightly small.

 

 

Hull lines should be checked from another dimension because I'm afraid of possible error when transferring station and bulkhead numbers. So I copied, pasted and mirrored Edgar half breadth line with Adobe Photoshop. I printed this waterline plan and pasted to cardboard. I cut waterline at level 3 then put this waterline gauge on model in upside down position. This check is also shows discrepancy between plan and kit. Midship sections are OK but imaginary narrowing lines toward bow and stern of kit bulkhead are hollower than waterline gauge. From these check I concluded that underwater outlines of kit bulkhead should be corrected except No.1, 7, 8 and 16.

 

 

Finally I determined to alter bulkhead outlines by gluing correctly cut MDF to kit bulkhead except No.1, 2, 3, 7, 8 and 16 bulkheads. No.2 and 3 are also need slight correction but it is boredom work to remove balsa filler so I increased outline by glue wood strips cut to expanded curves of bulkhead edge. At after sections this method wouldn't work because bulkhead outlines should be extended outward than those of forward sections, so I removed balsa filler between bulkheads no. 14 and 15 by sheer force and glue new bulkhead there. Above horizontal bulkhead I add triangular wood strips on kit bulkhead edge to follow underwater lines. Corrected bulkheads seem ugly but I don't hate them because they look like staggered futtocks of actual wooden ship building. After correction of bulkhead outlines were finished, I thought correcting hollowed balsa filler would be waste of time. This is the reason why I wrote balsa fillers became useless in previous post.

 

 

At that time corrected bulkheads show only vague hull shape, but effect of these works will be able to seen on some of pictures of my later posts.

 

BTW I hope that readers understand that I don’t intend to criticize Vanguard kit. If Chris Watton didn’t designed this kit, I would never have chance to build 74 until Jotika releases their long waiting 74, which I want to call “HMS Phantom”. Also I hope forum members already finished hull planking of this kit don’t be disappointed. Vanguard is still fine looking model.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[mtaylor]

Mitsuaki,

 

It is indeed wonderful to see you back at MSW and reposting your build log. 

[fake johnbull]

Upper gun port sills, Dummy 32pdr guns and their patterns

 

After bulkhead alternation had been finished I start installing sills to upper gun ports. Firstly 2x6mm walnut strips are glued to upper and bottom of gun port, then 2x4mm strips to both sides. After glue dried they are sanded smoothly to hull.

 

Next I start some simple scratch building. Inspired by krswen’s log, I also tried scratch building dummy gun carriage and appropriate protruding of dummy 32pdr gun barrels from gun ports but different solution from krswen.

 

 

Dummy carriages are built from 2x10mm walnut strips for brackets and 7x5mm Japanese hinoki cypress dowel for transoms. They are different kind of wood, but no problem I feel after painted in red. I only use materials of appropriate sizes from my stocks. Two brackets and transom are glued each other then these assemblies are glued to both of horizontal bulkhead and barrel strips. Heights of these dummy carriages are varied in line with deck sheer.

 

Side thickness of no.3 bulkhead are reduced to improve appearance of gun port after its sill is installed, reduced side is reinforced by gluing MDF pieces to aft.

 

 

Dummy gun barrels are simply lengthened by 5mm diameter brass tube. Brass tube is glued by epoxy putty to screw of dummy barrel breech.

 

 

After dummy carriages painted in red, building process entered into lower gun port patterns. At a glance gluing patterns to curved bow seems to be very difficult, but it can be solved quite easily by add three slits as can be seen on picture. Of course these slits were filled with putty later.

 

 

BTW before installation of lower pattern I made one more alternation to kit design. Gunwale outline of “prow” deck ahead of beakhead bulkhead is altered so that it runs towards stem with larger diameter curve than kit design. Bow filler is also altered to follow this gentler curve. These alternations mean discarding kit head grating and cheek parts, but in my opinion more authentic appearance can be reproduced by this work.

 

 

At pattern joining section, I glued hinoki block to dummy gun strip to receive fore end of after pattern. Without this piece, pattern will be sinking inward.

 

 

Effects of these dummy gun alternation can be seen on photo above, although this picture was taken after sills are installed.

 

In next post I want to describing 1st planking and lower gun port sills.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

1st planking

 

After lower gun port patterns settled in place I started 1st planking. The aim of 1st planking is preparing smooth surface for 2nd planking. Later 1st plank are completely covered by 2nd planks so any method of planking techniques can be employed. Easiest way is probably method of “arch shaped shutter plank” — I hope you understand what I mean, I’m sorry I don’t know correct term for that method— but as lessons for tomorrow I did thorough length planking except transom filler block of aft end.

 

I’m sorry I didn’t take pictures of this process, but some mention would be help of readers. 1.5x7mm lime strips are firstly soaked in water then pre-bent by steam and heat from kettle. As indicated in instruction, first two planks are glued without any tapering toward bow. From third plank I tapered strips toward bow. Also two drop strakes are employed to reduce whole breadth of planks at bow sections. I want to tell about drop strake or stealer later in description of 2nd planking.

 

 

At stern sections, planks are terminating at No.16 bulkhead and continuing smoothly to transom filler block of which outline is slightly larger than bulkhead. I think this method makes easier to form transom shape than planking lime strips. Lower planks are sanded down to form dead rising.

 

After 1st planking is finished I filled epoxy wooden putty to hollowing surfaces of gun port patterns and sanded down. I also fill small gap between lime strips with piece of wood or sawdust mixed with glue then1st planking surfaces are sanded down smoothly.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Basic structure of quarter galleries

 

According to suggestion in instruction I started construction of basic structure of quarter galleries before 2nd planking. I add some improvements to this area.

 

“Poop deck transom beam” is added to reinforce upper end of gun port patterns.

Doorways between galleries and stern balcony are opened and tiny scratch built doors are added. Starboard door is glued in closed position and port door in opened. I don’t know opening direction of these doors, but I hope my port door is opening correctly. To improve appearance visible from opened door, supporting parts of side gallery is cut partially.

 

When gluing side gallery parts, I tried attaching them to positions not too higher place in relation to gun port heights, although my try isn’t complete success. Top of supporting brackets for stern balcony is slightly cut so that balcony and stern fascia positioning slightly lower than kit design and stern fascia windows run smoothly to windows of side galleries I tried attaching in lower position. Above window openings of stern fascia part, walnut strip is glued and beveled to fit perfectly to underside of balcony because fascia parts is attached in tilted position.

 

Balcony is planked with 0.5x3mm maple. Also margin plank is cut from maple sheet and glued. I couldn’t find good information source of planking practice of balcony and margin plank is my guess work. I only hope its correctness.

 

Stern bulkhead parts are dyed in black and yellow and applied with Watco oil.

 

Other vertical walls are painted in Humbrol white because I think these areas are places for officers and red colour isn’t appropriate.

 

BTW I don’t glue window frames and glasses yet because I’m afraid of possible damage to them.

 

My buildings on this area contain some guess works, door opening direction, balcony planking method and colour of inner wall. Any suggestions or criticisms from experts in this forum are welcome.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Mark,

 

Thank you for your kind word  I finally come back to MSW. Now I have to keep regular posting than ever

 

Regards,

[fake johnbull]

Lower gun port sills

 

Lower gun port sills are built by the method suggested by Keith Julier I found in g**gle c@sh. Actually the said page is opened only for subscribers, but its g**gle c@sh can be browsed. I don’t want to tell how I find it because it wouldn’t be admirable to recommend seeing page restricted to subscribed members.

 

At upper gun ports, I glued four segments of sills separately because inner bulwarks supporting them securely. At lower ports this method doesn’t work well because there is no supporting inner bulwark inside.

 

First thing to do is preparing of walnut tube.

 

 

Walnut tube is inserted to gun port and cutting line is marked.

 

 

Walnut tube is cut but with slight margin.

 

 

Sills were glued to its position.

 

 

After every sills are glued and dried, protrusion from side are cut, sanded down then painted in red.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Stern lower counter

 

Before starting 2nd planking, I built lower counter because its side edges should be covered by 2nd planks. Counter part of kit is 1.5mm walnut ply. I thought it would be difficult to bend it to appropriate curve because it is rather thick and wide part. Also plane ply counter doesn’t have any representation of respective planks.

 

 

I used 0.5mm maple and walnut sheet to build it. Firstly I draw outline and planking lines by Adobe Illustrator and printed it as pattern paper. It is temporary glued to walnut sheet with paper cement.

 

 

Cutting line is moulded on walnut sheet by running knife along line of pattern paper. Then patter paper is removed.

 

Walnut sheet are cut to respective timbers. 

 

 

Respective timbers are glued to 0.5mm walnut sheet and then glued to 0.5mm maple sheet. This three layers component is temporary attached to its position till glue between layers dry. After glue dried component is cut to its outline and permanently glued to position.

 

Completed counter will be shown in photos of later post.

 

BTW hindsight tells me that I should open stern chaser gun port at this time. Well I hope they can be opened at later stage.

 

 

Keel, knee of the head, forefoot and sternpost

 

In instruction it is recommended to glue these parts at earlier stage, but I glued them after 1st planking finished because I’m afraid of possible damage, although at earlier stage I opened hole to keel to receive brass rod so that these external “real” keels are connected with inner “dummy” keels securely.

 

But they are permanently glued at this stage because rabbets to receive 2nd planks are indispensable at next stage.

 

 

Gluing these parts at this stage has some disadvantage. To attach keels perfectly straight from stem to stern, it is recommended to glue them at earlier stage and let dry them on plane surface. I didn’t do so because of reason above and very close inspection from both ends at upside down position reveals my keel is meandering very slightly. But it can’t be recognized well in normal upright position. Well, this is matter of preference of each modeller.

 

BTW I blacken walnut knee at this stage before planking prow deck ahead of beakhead bulkhead. I was inspired by Garyshipwright's great building of Alfred and his usage of black dye and oil I found in old forum discussion. I tried reproducing his method with stuff available in Japan.

 

 

I prepared alcohol based black dye and ebony colour Watco oil. Firstly blacken knee with dye then apply Watco. After dried I rub knee with cloth. The result is quite pleasant. I’m planning to adopt this method to rest of black area.

 

Sternpost is also blackened before installation to position because its head are inserted into rudder hole and becomes inaccessible.

 

From next post, building process is lastly entering into initial planking and hull bottom planking.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Initial planking and preparation for hull bottom planking

 

Now I want to start describing 2nd planking. Before starting 2nd planking, I marked upper edge of main wale referring distance from gun port opening and prow deck as suggested in instruction manual. Line of main wale is very important factor defining the appearance of ship and it must show natural beautiful curve from any angle. This line marked with pencil can be seen in some of pictures I posted previously.

 

 

I glued 1x5mm walnut as initial planking along this mark. Next I glued 1x4mm walnut beneath it. This pair of 5mm and 4mm strip again repeated so that parallel lines running by 9mm distance. I’m intending to use this line as guide for main wale planking later.

 

After finishing initial planking I start preparation of hull bottom planking. I’m planning to cover hull bottom with copper plates provided in kit. So usage of “arch shaped shutter plank” is enough justified, but I tried through length strake because this would be good lesson for possible future project with natural wood finish. To achieve my aim I partially utilize “spiling” method, although my working process can’t be called true spiling in real mean of term.

 

 

Many planking technique guidance suggest that firstly dividing hull bottom under wale to four areas with wooden batten. Instead using wooden batten, I used thread inspired by another great ship modeller David Antscherl. Bellows are links to “Warships to Workboats” archive I found. David subscribes his article on hull bottom planking technique in two parts.

 

http://modelshipwrights.wikispaces.com/file/view/Spring-2005.pdf

http://modelshipwrights.wikispaces.com/file/view/Summer-2005.pdf

 

In real spiling method, midship sections are divided to four parts of equal width. But I'm intending to use 1x5mm walnut strips in the kit, so I firstly estimate the number of 5mm width strips required to fill midship from lower edge of wale to keel. It became clear little less than 27 strips are required by measuring the length. I decided divide hull bottom to ratio of 7-7-7-6.

 

I stuck three threads to midship sections with adhesive tape. Then threads are extended and stuck to both bow and stern. Toward bow I extended threads keeping almost 7-7-7-6 ratio. But toward stern I tried extending threads in natural curve because aft sections of ship showing very complex shape generated by changing of station lines from convex curve to concave curve.

 

 

The divided areas are showing some important matter which should be considered. From midship sections to bow, width of each area is gradually reducing. From midship sections to stern, the width once reduced then widened. This changing of width is especially evident at area nearer keel.

 

In David's case, threads are left to each frame until strakes reach there like ribbands of actual ship building. But in my case hull is already shaped by 1st planking so I marked lines with pencil and remove threads. These lines provide guide for hull bottom planking.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Prow deck and basic structure of beakhead bulkhead and round house

 

Before starting hull bottom planking which requiring patience, prudence and accuracy, I built this rather simple area.

 

Prow deck is planked like upper gun deck and stern balcony. Again I tried margin plank here. I found margin plank of prow deck in “The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War” by Peter Goodwin.

 

 

After prow deck was planked I start construction of basic structure of beakhead bulkhead and round house. Instruction suggests that they should be built earlier stage before installation of gun port patterns. Perhaps Chris Watton is intending edge of beakhead bulkhead covered by both of gun port pattern and 2nd planks. But I don't like it because layers of different kind of woods are evident in this order.

 

By dry fitting of beakhead bulkhead part of kit, it became clear that the part is slightly smaller than its background widened outboard by gun port patterns. Also this part is showing no planking line like lower counter. I cut 0.5mm maple sheet to the shape of kit beakhead bulkhead part but with slight margin of both port and starboard end. Then I planked with 1x5mm walnut from top to bottom. These planks are slightly pre-bent to sideway with steam and heat to follow camber of top. After planks securely glued I cut excess wood of both side edges and open doorways and slots for round house frames. Finally round house is built as directed in instruction. At this stage this component isn't yet glued. Before starting upper hull planking I will glue it. Also I will add details of beakhead bulkhead and round house hole later. 

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Hull bottom 2nd planking (Part 1)

 

Now let’s start hull bottom 2nd planking. I want to describe about hull bottom planking in several parts.

 

Firstly I want to tell about bow planking. As I wrote previously the length from lower edge of main wale to keel is gradually reducing. Also bow has globe like shape and straight strip didn’t fit well. These factors require pre-bending of strips to side edge and tapering toward bow. Pre-bending of strips to edge side is much more important than pre-bending to face (or back) side. Also too much tapering of strip makes it difficult to stick foremost butt to stem. To prevent it, “drop strake” is used and numbers of strakes are reduced at some points. I’m sorry I didn’t take much pictures of bow planking, but bellow pictures tell themselves.

 

Strips are pre-bent with heat and steam from kettle, then leave them on board keeping their shape with pin till they dry. After pre-bent shapes are confirmed, their edges are tapered with plane.

 

First strake under the wale is planked through length. Before gluing, strip is again pre-bent but this time to back side. Strip is also slightly pre-bent to edge side to follow sheer line at midship sections and pre-twisted toward stern. Next strake is done in same way but dropped at bow.

 

 

After some strakes are glued I marked planking line by hand as guide to determine the shape of strakes. Lines drew by hand aren’t appropriate for decisive correctness, but worked well for my purpose.

 

 

These procedures are repeated toward forefoot, but pre-bending to side edge became less required. I’m sorry for poor quality of photo above, but it shows strakes are coming closer to keel gradually.

 

BTW, soon after I started hull bottom planking, I found Gil Middleton’s upside down jig in this forum.

(http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/485-hms-victory-by-gil-middleton-jotika-172/?p=8107)

As can be seen in my several pictures, my dockyard is very small and I have to change working side frequently. This jig greatly reduces the possible damage to the model when reversing working side.

 

 

I wrote previously that the length from wale to keel is once reducing and again widening toward stern and it is especially obvious at areas nearer to keel. Actually planks nearer to wale are simply reducing their width toward stern transom. These strakes are pre-twisted before round tuck of transom and pre-bent to back side at round tuck. Between wale, first strake and lower counter small triangular left unplanked. This area is filled with small triangular wood piece.

 

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Hull bottom 2nd planking (Part 2)

 

Also at stern, I marked lines as guide for planking. Photo above is of idea of inserting two “stealers” to cover widening area at stern, but actually I inserted three stealers. Also photo shows “garboard strake” adjoining to keel. Except garboard strake I continued planking downward from wale to keel.

 

Perhaps pictures again tell themselves better than my inconvenient English description. Bellows are how I inserted stealers to stern.

 

 

Strip is pre-bent to shape of round tuck of transom, dry fit then mark for inserting stealer.

 

 

Strip is cut to receive stealer

 

 

Strake above stealer is dry fitted, then outline of stealer is transferred to new strip.

 

 

Cutting and dry fitting of stealer is repeated several times till it gets satisfying outline and good fitting with strake above.

 

Cutting line is marked to strake beneath stealer. 

 

 

This strip is also carefully cut to shape to receive stealer. Lastly dry fitting is successfully done then glue strakes

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Hull bottom planking (Part 3)

 

Hull bottom planking is coming to its final moment. Sorry for poor image but photo above is showing strake is once reducing its width and again widening toward stern.

 

 

At midship sections I bevelled side edge of plank slightly because length from wale to keel is little less than total width of twenty seven 5mm strips at my first estimate. Also ship's bilge is round so bevelling of edge is anyhow required. But eventually, it became apparent that I over bevelled the edge and I found narrow gap is generated between garboard strake and final strake.

 

I filled the gap with long and narrow wedge strip. Luckily this patch work can’t be seen from side.

 

 

 

Photos above are of final result of hull bottom planking.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Starting of main wale installing

 

After finishing bottom hull planking, I started installing of main wale. Usually planks simulating main wale are installed after all 2nd planking finished. But I’m intending to use lighter tone wood between wales and decorative rails instead of paiting yellow band. Also I’m planning to apply alcohol based black dye and ebony colour Watco oil to walnut planks of other areas. Applying of black dye to strakes or wales neighbouring to lighter tone wood would be very difficult. So I determined to install main wale and blacken them before planking of lighter tone wood. Blackening of channel wale may course same kind of difficulty but I will postpone it until building process reaches that stage.

 

While kit instruction is suggesting using straight planks for main wale throughout the length, I determined to simulate top and butt stocking fashion. I found starboard profile of Vanguard in “Nelson’s Ships, A History of the Vessels in Which He Served 1771-1805” written by Mr. Peter Goodwin.

(http://www.amazon.com/Nelsons-Ships-History-Vessels-1771-1805/dp/0811710076) Although I can't judge on accuracy of Mr. Goodwin’s drawing, he is famous as ex-keeper of HMS Victory or maritime author. So I'm confident of its authenticity.

 

 

Firstly I marked each position of wale planks to hull referring Vanguard profile in Goodwin’s book. Profile is photocopied in enlarged size and transferring anchor stocking pattern to hull carefully.

 

 

I’m using 6mm width walnut for main wale planks. They are pre-shaped with steam and heat from kettle to fit curves of hull.

 

 

Pre-shaped plank is once dry fitted to hull and butt position and peak are transferred to plank.

 

 

Wale planks are made as shown in photos above. Once satisfying shape is reproduced it was glued its place.

 

 

Photos above are of wale planks are covering forward part of the ship.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Main wale at bow section

 

Except its stronger curve, bow wale planks are build in same manner with that of midship sections.

 

 

Forward end section of pre-bent wale material is used for this area.

 

 

Again careful repeating of cut and dry fitting of material is required to get better result.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Continuing main wale installing

 

Installing of main wale started from bow reaches almost one third of ship’s length. Perhaps it would be good time to install one of difficult area, lowest and aftermost wale plank which is blending to border line between transom and counter.

 

 

6mm walnut is pre-bent with steam and heat from kettle. Cut plank to desirable shape and dry-fit it.

 

 

I used gel type Cyano glue for aftermost end of plank because it is desirable to secure it in short time. Other areas are glued with Tight Bond.

 

 

One more reason why I installed lowest and aftermost wale plank at this point is that I wanted to pin cramping wood piece at less visible point. Hall opened by pin will be hidden by continuing upper plank. Uppermost and aftermost wale plank can be easily glued without pin because it has lesser curve.

 

 

Wale planking is continuing as shown in photo above.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Completion of main wale

 

Photos above are of completion of main wale installation.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Marking waterline and Copper plates edge covering timber

 

 

I marked waterline at this point because I want to simulate covering timber of upper edge of copper plates. Kit plans are showing identical depth from waterline to keel for both ends of the ship. But “Trim by Stern” is apparently appropriate. I referred NMM Edgar plan to determine waterline. Again pictures and accompanied depictions tell how I did them.

 

 

Mark waterline at sternpost. This procedure is repeated at stem.

 

 

Mark waterline. Set hull on cradle so that waterline runs parallel to floor then mark it. My “waterline gouge” is very primitive one, but worked relatively well.

 

 

 

Marking waterline at stern requires careful attention because convex curve of stern causes tendency of pencil point goes downward. Run point of pencil carefully with possible lesser force to hull.

 

 

I cut carefully 3mm x 0.5mm walnut strip included in kit to width of 1mm.

 

 

 

Installing of covering timber starts from stern because it has more complex curve here than bow sections. Again I used gel type Cyano glue for faster securing.

 

 

Gluing of covering timber went on little by little. After installing to these difficult areas was finished then rest of timber was glued with Tight Bond.

 

 

Installing of copper covering timber finished.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Blackening of hull

 

I blackened hull with alcohol based black dye and ebony colour Watco oil. I think this method is producing very favourable results.

 

 

Photos above are of procedure of these works and result.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

General procedure of planking above main wale

 

After finishing of main wale, I have been continuing 2nd planking. I’ve finished it except rails of freeboard. So it would be good time to upload procedure.

 

BTW, I want to firstly post about general procedure with pictures before depicting details of each procedure because sequence I adopted is something different way from usual continuous ‘upward’ or ‘downward’ planking procedure.

 

As can be seen in photos below, I planked upper low of lighter wood at final stage. This unusual procedure was adopted to ease blackening of planks between top edge and waist rail.

 

Another reason is that I want to determine the height and position of waist rail because it effects on ship’s appearance. IMHO, gun port patterns of the kit give slightly greater distance between gun port lows of lower and upper decks than it should be at midship sections. Main wale was already installed, so it would result in greater sheer of strake in comparison with upper gun port lows if usual ‘parallel running strakes’ is maintained. Final photo of this posting is showing final plank is reducing its width towards end. This is compromise I adopted to keep correct position of waist rail in comparison with lows of upper gun ports. This ugly diminishing ‘shutter plank’ will be covered by waist rail later, so I don’t mind it. Also tumble home is reducing width of upper strake of lighter wood at midship sections when viewing from side and it gives an impression of parallel running strakes.

 

Lighter tone wood I used is amarillo purchased from French distributer Stab.  This timber is selling as boxwood. Actually their boxwood is amarillo, but it has very pleasant yellow colour.

 

Black wood is walnut included in kit and it was blackened with alcohol based black dye and ebony colour Watco Oil as I mentioned several times.

 

 

Planking of ‘thick staff’ above main wale. I tried to simulating double thick stuff reducing their depth gradually.

 

 

Planking of lower strake of amarillo. Result of double thick stuff is can be seen here.

 

 

Planking and blackening of channel wale.

 

 

Planking and blackening of planks between top edge and waist rail.

 

 

Planking of upper amarillo strake. It can be seen that final plank is reducing its width towards aft end.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull

[fake johnbull]

Planking of thick stuff

 

Now let’s start detailed explanation how I planked above main wale.

 

In my building of Bellerophon, I challenged to simulate double thick stuff (or black strake) which is running above main wale and gradually reducing their thickness upward. In page 42 of AOTS Bellona, I found pair of 6.75” and 5.5” strakes are planked above main wale. Someone may feel it would be too fanatic to reproduce them in 1/72 scale, but even small scale plastic Revell Victory kit reproduce stepping of strake above main wale. I think it is worth to try.

 

 

Illustration above is showing my planning of thick stuff installing. Thickness of most of wood strips I prepared for 2nd planking is 1mm, so I planned to lay thick stuff on backing of 5mm x 0.5mm ramin strips. Upper portion of ramin will be thinned to accept upper thick stuff.

 

 

Firstly I planked 5mm x 0.5mm ramin above main wale.

 

 

Then I planked 1mm x 3mm amarillo.

 

 

Photo above is showing how I thinned upper portion of ramin backing. In result, 2mm width thinned ramin is running above 1mm x 3mm amarillo.

 

 

Photo above is of planking of 2mm x 1mm amarillo for upper strake of thick stuff. I’m sorry that I didn’t take a picture of planking work itself, but effect of two strakes gradually thinning their depth can be seen in this picture.

Edited March 29, 2014 by fake johnbull