Flying Fish by Jared - Model Shipways - 1:96

[Jared]

Thanks to both of you for sharing your rigging knowledge.  To clarify, the rigging sizes I have been using have been as per the kit's plans.  All rigging threads supplied in the kit or purchased as additional sizes from Model Expo were double checked for size by myself using a microscope with a micrometer.  

 

The particular tan thread I used for the 5" lift line was made by Mantua.  It is free of fuzz but is relatively stiff (feels like it has been starched).  This makes it harder to tighten, especially around sharp bends.   I had to be extremely carefully during tightening not to pull out the eyebolts secured to the deck under the fife rail.

 

For the remaining lower yard lifts I will have to use the same line to preserve a uniform look.    The upper lifts are of smaller diameters so they should be much easier to work with.

 

Thanks as always for your feedback and encouragement.  Much appreciated.  

[rwiederrich]

Jerad.

There is one thing I can see that will give you more grief if not addressed first.

You need to pay special attention to the installation of all your running rigging blocks....especially the ones at the foot of the mast.  They should have been installed before you fixed the fife rail in place.  They are way easier to get to once in place then if you have to add them after the fact.

 

Running Rigging, unlike standing rigging requires a lot of preplanning.  Your main course blocks should all be placed before hand. Before you get too far along..... Review your rigging charts and see your block layout.  Place all the blocks needed for the rigging for the foremast on the mast and tops before you begin the rigging of lines.

 

You still need to place the bunt line blocks under the tops.  This would have been far easier with the masts still off the model.

No real problem.....keep this as a learning experience.   Rigging takes a lot of pre-thought.....so take your time.   And undersized line is easier to use then over sized line.  Plus is scales better.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

I posted an image of Glory of the Seas.  Note: the larger lift lines and all the smaller bunt, leach and braces.  Also notice the number of lines coming down the main mast to the fife rail.

These lines have to be about an 1" diameter at scale to work with so many other lines.

Now, mind you, I fully rigged Glory.  Every line short the stunsail lifts and sheets.....cuz I didn't place stunsails or booms on Glory....she spent most of her time on the West coast, not in tropical seas where the light winds blow.

 

Rob

Edited 14 hours ago by rwiederrich

[Jared]

Thanks Rob.  Your rigging work is impeccable.   I had to learn much of what you recommended  the hard way!    And it was painful in many ways.   When I started the lifts I quickly realized it would be impossible to rig the lower blocks to the  eyebolts that were already secured under the fife bar.  The only feasible option I could think of was to pull out the eyebolts, then attach a lower block, rig the upper block (see photo) and then, with great difficulty, reglue the eyebolt (assembly) back in place.  🤬  

 

As to the rest of the running rigging,  my current plan is to I limit this to the yard braces, halliards, downhauls, lifts and vangs.  

Edited 14 hours ago by Jared

[gak1965]

On 9/24/2024 at 2:57 PM, Jared said:

I am off for celebratory scotch!

Getting the first running rigging going calls for the good stuff. I personally would go for Highland Park 18, or Balvenie Doublewood, but your mileage may vary...

 

Cheers!

George

[gak1965]

27 minutes ago, Jared said:

When I started the lifts I quickly realized it would be impossible to rig the lower blocks to the  eyebolts that were already secured under the fife bar.  The only feasible option I could think of was to pull out the eyebolts, then attach a lower block, rig the upper block (see photo) and then, with great difficulty, reglue the eyebolt back in place.

 

I put the tackles in place before the fife rails, and it helped sort of. One thing I found is that if I did that and didn't bring the blocks to the approximately correct distance apart ahead of time, when I did arrange the blocks correctly, the "embedded twist" (sorry can't think of anything else) in the lines caused the blocks to kind of torsion (basically they started twisting relative to each other). Some I could untwist, others I had to do what you describe - pull it out, re-rig, and then reinstall the bolt.

 

One more thing to watch out for is if you bump into the yard, it can pull the bolt out or stretch anything stretchable and you wind up with a "saggy" line. Needless to say, I know this because I did it many times.

[Jared]

The 2 things I fear most is pulling out a lift eyebolt and snapping off (again) the end tip of the bowsprit.  That is why you can see a pair of thick dowels "guards" extending from the base of my model at the bow.

[rwiederrich]

29 minutes ago, gak1965 said:

 

I put the tackles in place before the fife rails, and it helped sort of. One thing I found is that if I did that and didn't bring the blocks to the approximately correct distance apart ahead of time, when I did arrange the blocks correctly, the "embedded twist" (sorry can't think of anything else) in the lines caused the blocks to kind of torsion (basically they started twisting relative to each other). Some I could untwist, others I had to do what you describe - pull it out, re-rig, and then reinstall the bolt.

 

One more thing to watch out for is if you bump into the yard, it can pull the bolt out or stretch anything stretchable and you wind up with a "saggy" line. Needless to say, I know this because I did it many times.

Twisting of the block tackle is a real pain...that can be illiminated if you thread each block with the line straight.  Cotton lines works best for staying off twisting.  Especially when you're dealing with hundreds of lines.

 

[rwiederrich]

15 minutes ago, Jared said:

The 2 things I fear most is pulling out a lift eyebolt and snapping off (again) the end tip of the bowsprit.  That is why you can see a pair of thick dowels "guards" extending from the base of my model at the bow.

This is one reason why I rig from the top down and I rig the yards on the mast OFF hull.  Once I install the mast...I can easily trace out the lines and were they go.  Sure it's a lot of them, but when you work down you can secure those lines first down through the mast rigging and when you arrive at the main course yard...you have just its lifts and bunt, sheet lines to belay at the fife and rail.

Edited 13 hours ago by rwiederrich

[Jared]

Thank Rob.  I knew that the lower fore yard lift was going to be even more  difficult if I tried installing it after the main stay.  That us why I installed and rigged the lower fore yard and the lifts when I did.   

 

I am going to take a bit of a pause and think out the remaining rigging sequence to completion more carefully.  I will also consider your yard  pre-rigging suggestion.  Thank you.

Edited 10 hours ago by Jared

[rwiederrich]

1 hour ago, Jared said:

I will also consider your yard  pre-rigging suggestion. 

What I've Learned over the course of time is that, it is far easier to rig your yards on the mast...with the mast off hull.  You are free 360deg around the mast to work.  Secondly, if you start with the upper most yard...sky or royal...you can then easily run the rigging down through the mast structures far easier and with less opportunity to damage something.  I perfected this method and building in this manner when I built the Great Republic.

Then when you have all the yards mounted....except the main course...you leave that to add after the mast is glued in, you can go through your lines and belay them to the correct spot/pin.

 

Now, in your case, if the masts are already glued in, you can still start from the top and work down.  Again...because it is far easier to run the sheet and bunt lines this way.  Then you move to the next yard and so forth.

 

I always add the stays after each mast/yard section is done....so you have room to work around the mast, without bumping into the stay.

I can't explain my entire method here in this short posting, but I assure you, you must look at your rigging 3 dimensionally..  Top to bottom and from the inside out. What rigging requires a block/s and where is that block/s located.

 

As you go, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

 

Rob 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Look closely at Rob's photos, and you can see that he used 1:96 Revell blocks on Glory of the Seas (and some others), which can be had from Revell C.S., Thermie or Connie kits (and a couple others).  There are still a fair number of new or partially built 1:96 kits to be found on line.  The molded eyes are single & double becket single blocks, and double becket double blocks - convertible into a single becket.  They are good enough representations of internally stropped blocks  (one can ignore the slight side rib on them, or even file them off) - the type used on later clippers.

  By leaving the side rib on the Revell blocks, they can double as externally stropped.

 

[rwiederrich]

53 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Look closely at Rob's photos, and you can see that he used 1:96 Revell blocks on Glory of the Seas (and some others), which can be had from Revell C.S., Thermie or Connie kits (and a couple others).  There are still a fair number of new or partially built 1:96 kits to be found on line.  The molded eyes are single & double becket single blocks, and double becket double blocks - convertible into a single becket.  They are good enough representations of internally stropped blocks  (one can ignore the slight side rib on them, or even file them off) - the type used on later clippers.

  By leaving the side rib on the Revell blocks, they can double as externally stropped.

 

Good eye Johnny.  Each block is cleaned of flashing...drilled out and then painted an appropriate block color...then the eye and stropping is painted as well....using paint pens.

I used many other kinds of wood blocks in the past...but found, for regularity, and consistency....not to mention expeditious, these premade blocks can be made to look very convincing.  Plus, like all things...they are fast and easy to prepare.  I'm generally a lazy modeler to begin with anyway.  But if it works...it works.    I have hundreds upon hundreds of those blocks...single and doubles.😉

 

Rob

[Jared]

Will plastic block affect the lifespan of the model?  Will they become brittle with time (20 years)?  I have read about plastic models deteriorating with age, especially if exposed to direct sunlight.