Swift by 3sheets10 - Artesania Latina - first build

[Moonbug]

Nice work. I like the treenails you've come up with.  When it comes to repairs, isopropyl alcohol is your best friend...

 

Most of the time it'll dissolve the glue without doing too much damage to your wood.

 

- Bug

[3sheets10]

That is great advice Bug! Thank you for that. Most of the damage came from me trying to remove the upper stern and then again trying to strip the wood that was broken from that. I will keep that in mind. I really like the raw, weathered look on this wood. I saw it on other builds and was instantly drawn to it. Something about the Swift makes me think of a hard working ship. 

 

I have one question: I want to start attaching the planks that arc up to the upper stern, but I cannot decipher from the build instructions or any other Swift builds what wood I should use. The instructions say use the mahogany stripes, but I am not sure if that means the planking wood (what you would use to make the combs) or the sheet wood that is used to make the second hull, or maybe I should use both. Does anyone know what I should use here or have some advice? 

[Moonbug]

Are you talking about the area where the rudder handle is?  I used the same mahogany strips that I used for the second layer of the hull.  

 

  And to be honest, I spend so much time swapping wood and using scrap from other things, I often just measured and used whatever extra I had that I thought would look good.  

 

- Bug

[themadchemist]

Looks good 3s10.

I completely went off the deep end on that section. I used the thin veener (second planking stuff) but striped with ramin and cherry so as to match the decking. I then laid the lime/basswood over that (actually under) as the thin stuff didn't seem enough. The outer planking was then done in a diagonal stripe which wrapped around the side and into the 2 ramin stripes followed down the wales.

 

I'm with Bug though, do what you prefer. As you used the Ramin on the deck, you might used that with a backing of the first planking for some thickness. Then when you second plank the rest, cover it with the walnut outside. That would make the deck match and the hull/stern match. I would recommend putting some thicker lime/basswood in there as it will add reinforcement for when you drill out the rudder hole.

Also don't be surprised if the 2 knee braces don't fit, I've seen nearly everyone have to remake those or at least reshape the kit pieces.

 

Having the bulwarks on her really makes a big difference, doesn't it? I found that addition really made me fall in love with the shape and sheer of the pilot boats.

Oh and your right, the pilot boats were workers, so weather her up good. Many had numbers on there sails also which I think is an interesting feature. I still paln to build another one day and this time make it historically rather then custom.  

[3sheets10]

I agree TMC. I spend most of my time, when pondering the next step, checking out the lines of the boat. I am automatically attracted to the lines of any ship. It just seems to catch my eye first.

 

Well I attempted to plank the area where the rudder hole will go, first trying an elaborate plan of cutting limewood planks to the width of the space and covering them with mahogany strips to have to look of mahogany, but some durability. It did not come out as well as I hoped, so I remover that and put in just the veneer sheet and that was better, but a little uneven, so I am going to have another go of it tonight and hopefully straighten it out, and put a second layer for some support. 

 

I did successfully attach the stringers and I think it turned out to be a very nice feature. 

[3sheets10]

I finally decided what I wanted to do with the stern. I sandwiched a piece of lighter veneer strips between the mahogany stripes to add some support to the area. Then I placed the planks on in a way that satisfied my sensitive paranoia for straight lines and evenness with this project (if that makes any sense). At times, that paranoia becomes an annoyance, but it does help keep everything looking balanced. 

Edited February 8, 2014 by 3sheets10

[3sheets10]

I am getting close to working on the keel, but I want to finish the stern area first. 

 

Quick question: The way I decided to do the planking (see above post) for the stern area under the transom added some bulk to the area. Should I carry this thickness the entire length of the stern? 

[themadchemist]

Hello 3s10

I was just looking back at my build log its been so long since I worked on that area I couldn't remember. Its on about page 32 of my build log if you want to see pictures. I used the ramin and cherry striping facing up on the deck, then planked over that (actually under) with the basswood planking as you have with the mahogany. IIRC, I stopped with the horizontal planking about where you did and didn't continue planking down to the keel but rather sanded and shaped the planking so it thinned into the stern. I then sanded the Stern Post to fit, again if I remember, the stern post was sanded with a bit of a curve where it transitioned up into the lower stern curvature.  

 

Personally I don't think it really matter how you cover it just that its shaped smooth so the stern post sits tight against the rear. It may effect the rake/tilt of the rudder a bit but that can be managed later. In the last picture it looks like you attached a vertical plank where the stern post will sit, which should work and give a nice flat attachment of the stern post.

 

I like the mahogany waterways and rear decking contrast with the rest of the decking. Does the kit use mahogany for the stanchions also? I switched out most of the wood so I don't remember how it was supposed to be. The stanchions with really give the inner bulwarks a lot of detail and if it and the cap rails are mahogany it should really make the waterways contrast even better. I'm not sure on the newer kit but the older version of the kit has some strange wood combo's. One of my reasons for switching to cherry was that a lot of the mahogany in my 20 something year old kit was so varied in colour. The mast and spar dowels had the worst colour variation of all. The walnut and ramin planking veneers were excellent though and will be used elsewhere.

 

I think your headed in the right direction, she's looking good. You should be ready to attach the stem/keel/stern post soon.

I hope to get restarted on my DSotM again soon, Rigging ...Yikes!

[3sheets10]

To be honest TMC, I cannot answer that with full confidence, but I believe it is. I really like the light and dark contrast of the wood and I saw it on a couple of builds and it really caught my eye, so that was the goal for my build. 

 

I finished planking the stern area and I am really happy with the way it came out! After playing with the stern piece for about two hours, with sanding and fitting it into place, I decided to attach it. I think it turned out well. 

 

 

[themadchemist]

It looks great, I like the transom stripe also. It adds character and your personality to the build. I like seeing builds where the builder colours outside the lines, so to speak. That ability in this hobby, of being able to build it with our own ideas are kind of what I really like about this hobby. ...and from what I've read about the pilot boats, they were mostly privately owned and I'm sure had their owners personal touch. 

[3sheets10]

Thanks TMC! I thought it would be a nice little touch that would be a fun challenge for me. I appreciate that quality about this hobby as well. I am constantly trying to think of ways to add little differences in my build. Your build of the Swift is for sure the best example of making a build unique. That is for sure! 

[3sheets10]

As I am getting closer to the second planking, I have done a couple of things, maybe to postpone this task, but nevertheless, good steps to take in preparation. I tried my hand at wood putty. I filled in some areas in the hull that may have been an issue during the second planking. 

 

 

I also fitted the keel. What a task...............and a learning experience. To prep the fit, I sanded a flat area along the path that the keel would lay and worked endlessly to shape the stem piece to the bow by sanding the inside curve of the keel and test fitting over and over again. Eventually, I was able to get the stem piece to fit around the bow, not perfectly, but close enough. I steamed and re-steamed the keel to get it straight, but it was still somewhat warped. I decided that I could work it into place as I am attaching it. Well, as it happens, this is not the way to go.

 

 

After a fight with the stem piece, I finally got it into place. It is some what off, but I think I recovered well. 

 

 

Now on to the second planking

[3sheets10]

Has it really been a month since I last posted.......

 

I am back at it again after a small break. I am ready to install the second planking. I have installed the wale and the garboard planks and am in the process of measuring everything out. 

 

I do not think I will have enough plank strips to complete the second hull planking. Where is the best place to get more that match the standard strips that come with the kit? 

 

Of  course, any advice to making this step as clean as possible is always welcome. I have been studying up these past couple days and cannot wait to try my hand at this process. 

[themadchemist]

There's nothing wrong with a break. I haven't worked on the DSotM in quite a while as I've been following other pursuits, such as building the long boat and dinghy. Plus a whole lot of study on the fore and aft gaff sail rig of the pilot boats so I can incorporate quite a few changes. I don't see a hobby as a race, so I take how ever long I take.

Your keel and stem look to sit nice and tightly against your hull, which is one of the more difficult tasks. Nice going on a tough job..

On the second planking your question is a tough one. I completely switched the walnut planking for cherry. I purchased it from Lee Valley, but they no longer carry it. ...And even if you ordered there is no chance it would match. Wood of the same type, cut from different sources can have huge colour and grain differences.

I would recommend a sealing iron for making the thin planking conform to the shape needed. Hate to say t but the second planking to me was more difficult then the first in some ways. I found it required just as much measuring and marking as the first. Just work it one plank at a time as with the first and you do great.

[3sheets10]

Ok..........I'm here! It has been awhile! 

 

In the mean time, I have completed a couple of things not too major, but I will go ahead and share them. 

 

I went ahead of the instructions and added the 'futtock timbers' to the bulwarks.

 

 

I also installed the stern thwarts and the stern pin racks. I happened to brake on of the stern brackets, which I really looked forward to putting in, but I may try to make something work. 

 

 

Next up second round of planking which I am ordering tomorrow and will begin next week! 

[3sheets10]

Does anyone know where the side cleats (#45 in the instructions) are located in the laser cut wood samples? The instructions state that they are made of sapelly wood, but I can not find them on that sheet. Has anyone came across this issue as well? 

[themadchemist]

Nice additions. I found that adding the bulwark timbering added a lot of depth to the feel of the decking. The stern seating and pin rails look good also and I know what your talking about with the stern brackets (knees). The kit walnut pieces weren't even close to fitting right for me and I've seen many that had the same issues. I made a card stock template to fit then used that to make the brackets. That way they fit without gaps.

 

On the mahogany (sapelly) cleats, I don't know. I see the brackets, seats and channels but can't make out what is between those parts, but the cleats might be supposed to be made from  a strip of wood rather from the sheet. I'd say just make some. I personally am switching out most of the belaying structure on the DSotM build as I've changed so much already.  

 

She's coming along nicely though, good to see updates as I've been swapping building for yard work and miss building. That will soon end as the heat runs me inside though.

[3sheets10]

Thanks TMC! I know what you mean about  missing the build. I put it away for awhile and finally got the itch to start working on it again. I am just waiting to get the planking in for the hull and will be back at it! I really just need to look through everyone's builds and I get inspired to start work again. 

 

I am thinking about making some card stock cut outs with the one good knee I have left based off of your recommendations as well as fit my own cleats. I just need to collect the supplies for it. 

 

Quick question: I want to paint some of the metal pieces that came with the kit black. What do you all use on your builds to make this happen? 

[3sheets10]

I decided to use some extra Walnut to build the stern knees. I used some card stock to get the profile of the stern set up and after an extensive amount of sanding and measuring and checking and rechecking, I got something that I can work with. I am happy with how they turned out. More photos of the finished result to come. 

 

 

[themadchemist]

Nice job, fitting that shape takes a bunch of sand/file/fit...repeat. It feels good when you get it right though.

 

The interesting part, for me at least, has nothing to do with the time it takes. In a weird way the long it takes to make a piece, the more I appreciate it. I sometime find it amazing how hours can pass while I'm absorbed it such a small task, but as you focus that one step becomes the whole project at that moment. It's the self absorbing aspect of this hobby that I find appealing.

[3sheets10]

Alright, I have finally found some time to get moving on my build and started off on an easy task of fixing the stern knees to the boat. 

 

 

 

I have also received a great set of wood planks for my second hull planking, so I am finally moving along on this step. To prepare for this part of the build, I decided to put the rubbing strakes in first to set a boundary for the hull planks. Because the hull planks I purchased are thicker than the kit's second planking, I decided to make the rubbing strake thicker so that they stand out from the hull planking. I did this by sticking 2 now useless kit planks to one side of the rubbing strake strips then fixing it to the port and starboard sides of the boat. It came out nicely, but there are some tidiness issues that I will have to address later.

 

 

 

 

I have decided to use smaller planks rather than long strips. I think it is going to add a nice feature to the end result. After doing some research and looking at some of the planking patterns shown on this site, I went for it.

 

 

Because I was moving to fast and wanted to start this step, I made mistake. I messed up the beginning pattern, so I had to make an adjustment, but I do not think it will affect the end result, maybe just more measuring than intended throughout this process. 

 

 

 

 

 

[3sheets10]

It is 2020 and my last post was 6 years ago....since then, I would like to report that I have finally finished the second planking of the hull! 

[Cabbie]

Ah good, someone who has been away from their log longer than me😉

Your work looks very neat and sharp, its only a little boat but it still

has a lot of the building elements in it.

Cheers Chris

[3sheets10]

Update to this build: after finally finishing planking, I stained it with a teak wood oil, applying 3 coats until desired finish. I was then able to turn my attention to the deck and work up from there! 

 

 

 

Edited December 30, 2020 by 3sheets10

[3sheets10]

Stepping masts - Not as easy as it looked at first review. Had to get creative when figuring out how to set the masts at the same angle. With limited tools to work with, I used a power drill and a hand dremel tool to shape the masts, using the included blueprint for diameter reference. I think they came out alright.