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Posted

Hi guys

I hope you can help me and that i have posted this in the right area?

I have a 10 year old (must be easily) Caldercraft Brig Supply that i started ages ago before i really knew what i was doing (not that i do now 😂) . It reamains in the same stae as i left it all those years ago, but would actually like to try to finish it. The problem i got to was where i had built up the false keel amd added the bulkheads, then the instructions said to add the stem. I did this and added some balsa to pad out the bow area to aid fairing. Now i can't easily fair the bow area and bulkheads with these in place. Realistically, i need to remove the stem and balsa. Would using Isoproponol remove the stem and balsa padding to strip it back to where i can continue?

Thanks

Posted

Bud

Can you post a photo?  I would think they should be kept  in place before the fairing so I cannot visualize your problem.

Regarding IPA what kind of glue did you use?  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I found a bunch of solutions on the 'net from heat to alcohol to vinegar.  My preference has usually been alcohol. The problem is getting it to the glue.  If you have a large area and there is glue far from the seam, it will be difficult to get the liquid to those areas.   Pictures may help get a lot of responses from members that also have to go through this.   

Cheers

Allan 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)

As you see in the photo attached, if I can remove the stem piece I feel I can get a better run at the hull fairing, ready for planking. Never used isopropanol before. It won’t damage the stem piece will it?

CE48C267-64DA-4ED9-ABC0-E0A59135EAFC.jpeg

Edited by RockinBudgie
Posted

I believe you would be better off to leave the fillers where they are and they will need fairing also.   So as you're working on the bulkheads, you'll also get the filler faired.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

IPA should work on removing the stem.  It will take a good bit of alcohol with a swab or brush and you need to work briskly as it evaporates quickly.   It will  not stain the wood but if there is any residual glue on the wood it may show up.  This should be sanded off anyway so no harm.   Once removed, be sure to sand any residual glue from the stem and the center piece before gluing it back on.

 

I agree with mark, do not remove the fillers, they need to be part of the fairing process.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, RockinBudgie said:

Never used isopropanol before. It won’t damage the stem piece will it?

If you are on the US, go to your near by chain pharmacy and get a quart of 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

It will not affect the wood.  A pipette and a hair dryer or heat gun will speed the process, just keep the dryer at a very warm distance, Hot may/will affect the wood in an ugly way.

 

10 hours ago, RockinBudgie said:

Now i can't easily fair the bow area and bulkheads with these in place. Realistically, i need to remove the stem and balsa. Would using Isoproponol remove the stem and balsa padding to strip it back to where i can continue?

I understand why you wish to remove the stem, so that you an have at it with whatever tool you are using to fare the planking run.  I do not understand why you wish to remove the Balsa.  It is part of the molds(#) now.  Balsa is a specious choice as a space filling wood, but it does work.

 

I suggest a couple of alternatives.

1)  If it is minor faring that is to be done,  cover the sides of the stem with a multi layer of masking tape, use small files and sanding sticks with an abrading surface that runs up to the end.  It will take up close and personal and a royal pain at the rabbet.

 

2) If you have done a major wiff with the spine and molds,  drop back ten and punt.

Go back to your plans,  

trace the spine and molds

or

scan in your decktop scanner, take the scan into a drawing program and adjust the scanner distortion factor and print 

or

take the plans to an architects copy place and get exact duplicates or triplicates of the mold and spine patterns

 

Buy good quality plywood and cut out the patterns and start over.  A hand frat or coping saw will do the job for not much money unless you go with Knew.   You can get thicker plywood - just may sure you choose the correct side of the slots to make wider ( away from the midship station).

 

Consider filling between every mold.

Consider using Yellow Poplar or Basswood (or Pine) for the filler

Consider thinking vertical instead of horizontal for the orientation of the fillers and cut them like the molds.

Consider using Yellow Poplar or Basswood or Pine instead of plywood for the actual molds.

 

With Pine - it can be construction grade, just clear and not sap or gum  A grade is safer but difficult to find.

 

If this is a one-off model - disregard option 2,  but if you wish to continue with this, the exercise and experience of option 2 will start to open a new world of possibilites as to choice for the next ship - because you have started on the scratch build road.

 

 

 

(#)  I build POF and I can assure you that the transverse pieces are not bulkheads.  Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads.  They a molds (moilds) of the inside the planking hull shape at various points (usually the stations) along the length of the hull.

The long central piece is in no way a keel of any sort.  It is a support spine.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

  'Looks to me like you could just apply  filler where needed (and a couple applications in the 'deepest' voids would be needed if the material shrinks).  Then just 'sand away' until the desired shape is had.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks everyone for your replies. The reason i wanted to remove the stem in the first place is that i think it will just make getting a smoother line for the planking easier, as i won't catch the stem with my sander.

Greatly appreciate the input fellas 👍

Posted

  Budgie,  'Forgot to mention that we have three cockatoos ... and they are like budgies ON STEROIDS.  Bigger beaks, bigger bites (on occasion if they get emotional over something), LOUDER screams and cries, more dander and mess ... but we just love them (they are generally manageable, and often affectionate) and they have long lives.  One we've had 42 years, another 29, and our 'rescue bird' (this year his owner passed away) is merely 21.

 

  This year we used all our 'stimulus money' to get a hot tub installed next to our deck on a pre-existing concrete pad.  Late afternoon or evening dips are great muscle relaxers, and not having any formal swimwear - I go in in my boxer briefs.  However, the Admiral would like to see me in a 'budgie smuggler' - as they say in Australia.  G'day mate!     Johnny

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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