Help Needed In Removing Dried Glue From Planking

[Randy1962]

Continuing my rookie build of the Dumas Chris Craft Runabout but have hit a snag. In finishing the hull planking, I mixed a slurry of dust and wood glue to fill some cracks. I was a bit sloppy and now have dried glue mix in several areas. Initial sanding does not seem to be removing. Should I use acetone to remove or does that create additional problems. 

What about heating with hair dryer and scraping?

A bit of a panic so advice appreciated.

[Keith Black]

3 hours ago, Randy1962 said:

Should I use acetone to remove or does that create additional problems. 

What about heating with hair dryer and scraping?

 Both methods are suggested by Loctite. You can also place a warm wet rag on the glue for several minutes allowing the glue to soften so it can be scrapped away. 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by Keith Black

[Roger Pellett]

If the Wood Glue was the usual, yellow Elmer’s, Titebond, etc. Poly Vinyl Adhesive type Glue, the recommended solvent is alcohol.  I personally have had good luck using alcohol sold as camp stove fuel.  This is not diluted with water.

 

If you used something else, tell us what it was.

 

Roger

[kurtvd19]

The common solvent for the white or yellow wood glues is Isopropyl Alcohol - you probably have some in your medicine cabinet.  If you go to the drug store try to get the 90% stuff - whatever you get, go for the highest % you can obtain.  The 90% costs more than the common medicine cabinet variety but it works a lot better and it's still quite affordable - just remember to put the cap on tightly between uses.

[Keith Black]

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

If the Wood Glue was the usual, yellow Elmer’s, Titebond, etc. Poly Vinyl Adhesive type Glue, the recommended solvent is alcohol.

 

2 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

The common solvent for the white or yellow wood glues is Isopropyl Alcohol

 

 Roger and Kurt, I've read other MSW post where Isopropyl Alcohol is the recommended method for removing dried wood glue and I have no argument with that recommendation. Before replying to Randy's I did a quick Google search looking for the alcohol method but didn't find a Google link specifying Isopropyl Alcohol. What I did find was the below link by Loctite. I'm confused as to why a manufacture (Locite) would recommend one thing (Acetone) while years of collective MSW experience supports using Isopropyl Alcohol? I personally have never used either method so I've got no dog in this fight. I'm sorry if I've lead Randy astray. 

 

https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/how-to-guide/gluing-guide/how-to-remove-glue-from-wood-easily.html

[Randy1962]

The product link for the glue I used is https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-wood-glue/.

 

 

[kurtvd19]

What they are describing is how to remove epoxy type glues.  One can use epoxy on wood so it can be a wood glue but ordinarily  the term "wood glues" mean the white or yellow glues such as Titebond, Elmer's etc.

Gorilla glue is a poly vinyl acetate glue (PVA) as are the Titebond glues.  The Isopropyl alcohol works well on PVA glues.  I have never use Gorilla glue on a model and would not use it due to it's foaming charistic - that may have caused your problem.

[Randy1962]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

So, just apply the alcohol (91% in my case) to the glue build up and let it soften for a couple of minutes and then scrape away?

[Keith Black]

Randy, this appears to be a good link. I'm sorry I mislead you in post #2.

 

https://startwoodworkingnow.com/how-to-dissolve-wood-glue/

[vaddoc]

Randy, which exactly gorilla glue did you use? Was it the white glue or the amber gorilla original?

[Randy1962]

Amber see product link above 

[vaddoc]

Then it was gorilla original. This is not PVA glue. Gorilla original activates with water and is an expanding glue, filling gaps. I tried it years ago but made a big mess. It probably would be good for wood working when parts do not fit well, like gluing chairs but maybe not too good for modelling.

I am not sure if this glue can be dissolved with chemicals. Maybe best to experiment, apply some glue to a scrap piece of wood and use heat or either IPA or acetone, what ever you can get, and see how it reacts.

Scraping with a sharp blade may actually do the trick and leave a smooth surface.

[Randy1962]

Vaddoc,

I am confused. The product link describes it as a PVA glue. 

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-wood-glue/

 

[Keith Black]

 Randy, if you look at the glue in the bottle and the glue applied to the wood, it's white, not amber.

 

 Is this what you used?

 

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/

 

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by Keith Black

[kurtvd19]

58 minutes ago, Randy1962 said:

So, just apply the alcohol (91% in my case) to the glue build up and let it soften for a couple of minutes and then scrape away?

Multiple applications will probably be needed.  Keep it wet - don't let it dry or you will need to start all over.  Have something under the piece to catch run off - don't let it ruin something it drips on.  Some have used tissue to keep the area wet - applying more to the tissue so the underlying part is kept wet.  Test occasionally and when soft do what works best to remove the excess.  Repeat as needed.

[vaddoc]

As Keith said. PVA is white or yellow. Amber would be gorilla original which is not PVA.

Either way though, it makes no difference. It needs to be removed so test and see what works best.

[Randy1962]

 

To close the loop on this issue, I used 91% alcohol to soften and remove the gorilla wood glue (yellow).

 

Thanks to everyone for their input.