Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64

[popeye the sailor]

looking good Larry..............3mm planking?

[lb0190]

Good morning Popeye,

Thanks!

The top plank is 1/16" and the lower planks are 3/64". Hopefully I'll finish glueing the bow planks today and start cutting in the gun ports tomorrow. I'm anxious to start planking the hull but a little nervous how it will turn out due to being single planked. If I have not learned anything else with this build, I now know the next kit will have a false deck, two layers of hull planking and wider planks!

 

My biggest goal in life is to be able to enter a post in MSW without have to edit numerous times...

Edited June 22, 2013 by lb0190

[kenr]

Hi Larry

Great work so far

Yes the Niagara is single planking but keep in mind it is completely painted

Filler and paint can hide a multitude of sins

 

Regards

Ken

[edmay]

Hello Larry,maybe your build to you is slow,but to us Niagara builders yours is looking real real good,I recieved a damaged one at the beginning stages which i"m trying to repair,slow but sure,I am retired and care for my unwell wife and sore back kicks in every so often,I use a support belt also a bean bag(heated in the microwave) both ways helps some,also got an aid to pick items up that have fallen,regards Edwin

[lb0190]

Yesterday I started cutting out the port-side gunports. I thought I would show the process I'm using. Once the inboard bulwarks are planked and primed, I use a rotary tool with a pointed cutting bit. This allows me to plunge cut into planks and hog out the majority of wood. The bit can grab the wood and dig deeper than intended if you do not keep a firm grip. After hogging out the majority of wood, I use emery boards and jeweler files to remove the majority of remaining wood. I leave a small amount of wood that will be removed when I repeat this process once the hull planks are in place. This is also when I do the final squaring of the the port openings.

 

Sweep ports are worked the same way, but I use a small needle bur grinder (as seen in the photo) in place of the bigger cutting bit.

 

 

Edited July 15, 2014 by lb0190

[augie]

Sounds like a plan.  Although I must admit that, with my finely honed manual dexterity, the closest I get to mine with a power tool is about 100 yards

[Rich_engr]

Nice approach Larry- I never thought of using the dremel and a pointed cutting bit for making the gun and sweep ports.  I just made individual planks for each hole (then sanding/filing to final size), instead of laying one single plank the whole length and then cutting out...  which is probably why it took me forever... lol!  oh well- next time.

 

Glad that you're making good progress- you're catching up and learning rather quickly!!!    (Regarding my build, I tend to learn from others after-the-fact.  haha!!  But I'll get 'em next time!)

 

Keep up the great work!

[Sjors]

Hi Larry,

 

When I see the first picture is was thinking….o dear 

That goes the wrong way but when I look further….. yes, it comes good….pffffff

 

[bgarden]

Boldly done Larry.  I must admit that I don't have the guts to try using such a tool, but your finished project looks great.  

 

Brian

[popeye the sailor]

I have a dremel.......but other than sanding,  I have done little with it  {the noise drives the dog nutzs}.   I do have a special x-actor knife with blade attachments that look like saw blades.   there are many approaches for doing this.....if yours works well for you,  then by all means...perfect your art     looking forward in seeing the finished adjustment.....I swear,  I have a bad case of fat fingers tonight  {perhaps I need another beer} 

[lb0190]

Nice approach Larry- I never thought of using the dremel and a pointed cutting bit for making the gun and sweep ports.  I just made individual planks for each hole (then sanding/filing to final size), instead of laying one single plank the whole length and then cutting out...  which is probably why it took me forever... lol!  oh well- next time.

 

 

Hi Rich,

 

I started out mounting planks the entire length, but eventually realized I was torturing myself doing this. Since most of the runs were eventually cut for the gun ports, a little voice in my head told me I could cut the planks into three or four more manageable lengths providing the ends terminated over a gunport. The dremel really helps save sanding time, but one slip and  what did I do!

[lb0190]

Hi Larry,

 

When I see the first picture is was thinking….o dear 

That goes the wrong way but when I look further….. yes, it comes good….pffffff

 

Thanks Sjors,

 

When I started this method, I was not too sure how it was going to turn out. I thought about cutting short individual planks and staggering them, but eventually realized the deck is so busy, that level of detail would not be noticed be many. I'm satisfied with the current outcome, so it's full steam ahead...

[lb0190]

I have a dremel.......but other than sanding,  I have done little with it  {the noise drives the dog nutzs}.   I do have a special x-actor knife with blade attachments that look like saw blades.   there are many approaches for doing this.....if yours works well for you,  then by all means...perfect your art     looking forward in seeing the finished adjustment.....I swear,  I have a bad case of fat fingers tonight  {perhaps I need another beer} 

 

Hi Popeye,

I found a saw blade for my x-actor handle but to the teeth were too course and ripped the wood. I hope to find another saw blade with more TPI. I recall having one many years ago, but recent searches have been unsuccessful. YES! You do need another beer and in effort to help you I'll drink one (or maybe two) all in the unselfish interest of helping one of the Niagara club members!

[lb0190]

Here is a quick status update.

 

Port side bulwark planks installed, ports cut out (95%) and painted. I'm currently waiting for the top plank glue to dry.

[lb0190]

Last night I finished up installing the port side interior bulwark planks. The ports are cut in 95%. I'll finish squaring them up and removing the remaining material when I cut them in after installing the exterior bulwark (??) planks. The port side top planklooks to be ~1/2 mm higher the the starboard side at the bow. I need to look at this a little closer and determine if there needs to be any corrective action. I clamped on the top caprail and both sides seemed to mate up OK. It was late when I did this, so I'll have a closer look later today.  

Edited July 15, 2014 by lb0190

[Sjors]

Hi Larry,

 

It looks good to me 

Question…at the bow I see a opening?

Why?

 

[lb0190]

Hi Sjors,

It's by design, if I read the drawings correctly. When the caprail is installed, it should close up the gap other than where the bowsprit is mounted. I'll check this out closer in case I missed something. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

 

Sjors,

 

My initial spelling above was very bad, which I just corrected. I made my original reply on the iPad which was a mistake...  The keyboard is too small and the text size was very small. I really like the iPad but for some uses it's not always the best choice.

Edited June 28, 2013 by lb0190

[Sjors]

I'll wait and will see how it ends 

I never see this but maybe it goes this way.

 

[kenr]

Larry

I just went back and looked at my broken Niagara.

The caprail is closed at the bow. The bowsprit is fitted under it.

The bowsprit sits in a gap in the bulwarks

Regards

Ken

[lb0190]

Hi Ken.

 

Thanks for checking checking it out. After reading Sjors concern, I went back and looked at the plans and verified what you detailed above. I believe I'm OK (at least for the time being  ) and heading in that direction.

 

Sjors,

 

Thanks for looking out for me.

[augie]

I just checked the ME photos on their display model and, sure enough, the bowsprit goes under the caprail  Completely different from Syren.  Here's the photo:

 

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/Grafx/item_shots/MS2240/3.jpg

[kenr]

Larry

One more thing

You might want to check the gap between the bulwarks at the bow

It needs to be wide enough to accommodate the bowsprit with some space either 

side

 

Regards

Ken

[lb0190]

Thanks Ken,

 

That has been on my to-do list for a while, I'm just afraid of what I may find     

I'm more concerned I left too big of a gap, but I just have not made time to measure yet. If it's wrong either way..., add a little wood, cut a little wood apply a lot of paint!   

 

Thanks for keeping an eye out for me, which remainds me of a joke...., naaaay, I had better pass on this one.

[lb0190]

Good news. I looked at the drawings (novel idea for me) and found out the following. The fwd most knight-head to keel center-line measures .184” on the drawing, when doubled equals a gap of .368'. The drawing states the bowsprit at the hull interface is .328” wide, which if centered leaves a 0.020” clearance on each side. Currently I have ~.266” gap, which is good news. I sure do prefer opening up the gap instead of figuring out how to reduce it.

 

Thanks for the concern. It put a bug in my head I could not get rid of until I measured. The bowsprit looks like an interesting piece to make.

Edited June 29, 2013 by lb0190

[Bahamas Diver]

Larry...if you look at page 4 of my build log you can see a decent picture of how the bowsprit sits in between the knights-heads.  Also as you think about placing the bowsprit you need to really think it out.  There are a lot of pieces that need to be prepared for but not glued in or you will not be able to insert the bowsprit.  If I remember there are also issue to deal with concerning the placement of eye bolts and prepping for them.  In any case your works looks good so far and your thinking is spot on.

[popeye the sailor]

looking good Larry........you are correct with the bow spirit.

[bgarden]

Larry your work is looking fantastic.  It is great to see your inboard planking wrapped up.  As for the gap at the bow, you have nicely set yourself up for the installation of the bowsprit.  Your opening looks to be too small which is good because you can always open up the gap more with an emery stick or a sharp blade, but it becomes tricky to add to the opening if it is too big.  If I can suggest two things...One if you were to build the bowsprit as to the plans size and then open the gap at the bow to the built bowsprit size, that way if you were to be slightly off the plans with your finished bowsprit then there is no worries.  Second is to visualize how you plan to build and insert the bowsprit through the hulls planking remember that if you finish the capping and have an opening instead of a slot then it may be more tricky to install the bowsprit and you will need to install all of the inboard detail along the bowsprit after install and awkwardly paint them as a retro fit.  Your conversation on your log has been a good heads up for me to have a bit of a game plan.  I think that I will leave the main rail and the red stringer on the inboard planking off, install the bowsprit and then lap those things over the bowsprit.  But once again your work looks great.

 

Brian  

[lb0190]

Hi Brian,

 

Thanks for looking in and for your suggestions. Originally I was going to install the caprail prior to the bowsprit, but after the review from you and other builders (friends), I agree it makes more sense to reverse that sequence and carefully review the proper sequence for all of the parts in that area.

 

This is an excellent example of how MSW works, helping each other out, sharing experience and offering other perspectives that may not be obvious to the builder. THANKS EVERYONE !!

Edited June 29, 2013 by lb0190

[Rich_engr]

Exactly!  Originally, when I finished the bulwark planking, I installed the cap rail, but then removed it due to irregularities in height/fairing.  Also, I read on MSW 1.0 that it's easier to install the small fittings on the deck and bulwarks before adding the cap rail, so this worked out to my advantage.    

 

I also have to agree with Brian, in that it may be easier to make the bowsprit and install it first (along with all of the other bulwark & deck fittings) prior to adding the cap rail.

 

As I have been continuously discovering, is that it is MUCH easier to do as much rigging, assembly, painting, and fabrication as possible OFF the ship than once installed.  (I think in terms of completed sub-assemblies, ready to just plop into place!  lol)

 

She's definitely coming along great there Larry!!!!!!

[popeye the sailor]

best thing to do,  is to read ahead.    is it part of the windlass assembly,  or does it terminate below deck?