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Craftsman Model 113.244510 Bandsaw What are the purpose of these parts?


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Can't say for sure but it appears to be in the right place for an adjustable stop to level up the table. This would allow the table to be returned to true 90 degrees after being tilted. 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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1 hour ago, bruce d said:

Can't say for sure but it appears to be in the right place for an adjustable stop to level up the table. This would allow the table to be returned to true 90 degrees after being tilted. 

Agreed. Manual shows on page 13 that they are for table alignment. If I only owned one power tool it would be a bandsaw.720922802_Screenshot2022-05-09223921.jpg.185d87be3379b05251a23263e9122e38.jpg

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To mount the blade, there must be a slot.  The slot has two outer wings of the table flying in the breeze and subject to flex.

58, 59, 60 look like they are involved with connecting the two outer wings so that the table is a single unit. 

To change a blade, they would have to be removed.  They are probably the easiest parts to go missing.

 

What you have there is a 3 wheel bandsaw. 

They are a nightmare. 

The blades do not want to track. 

They are difficult to mount.  They tend to slip off the wheels. 

For resawing, be prepared for a lot of frustration, heartache, and a low productivity with a lot of wedge slices instead of rectangles.

You may have to have replacement blades custom welded. 

Standard 3-4 tpi steel blades have way too much set.  They chew up the faces of a cut.

Wider blades will not assure better tracking.

 

Are you sure that the giftor is really a friend? 😉

 

For a bench top bandsaw,  I suspect that a 10" Rikon with the big motor - 1/2 HP - would be about a magnitude easier and more reliable.   If it is scroll cutting that will be its function, a Carter Stabilizer is worth what it costs and then some.

Lenox Diemaster2  1/4"  4 tip is my sweet spot.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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4 hours ago, Jaager said:

58, 59, 60 look like they are involved with connecting the two outer wings so that the table is a single unit. 

Yup, that is it.  The adjustment screw I was describing looks like part number 55.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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11 hours ago, Jaager said:

To mount the blade, there must be a slot.  The slot has two outer wings of the table flying in the breeze and subject to flex.

58, 59, 60 look like they are involved with connecting the two outer wings so that the table is a single unit. 

To change a blade, they would have to be removed.  They are probably the easiest parts to go missing.

 

What you have there is a 3 wheel bandsaw. 

They are a nightmare. 

The blades do not want to track. 

They are difficult to mount.  They tend to slip off the wheels. 

For resawing, be prepared for a lot of frustration, heartache, and a low productivity with a lot of wedge slices instead of rectangles.

You may have to have replacement blades custom welded. 

Standard 3-4 tpi steel blades have way too much set.  They chew up the faces of a cut.

Wider blades will not assure better tracking.

 

Are you sure that the giftor is really a friend? 😉

 

For a bench top bandsaw,  I suspect that a 10" Rikon with the big motor - 1/2 HP - would be about a magnitude easier and more reliable.   If it is scroll cutting that will be its function, a Carter Stabilizer is worth what it costs and then some.

Lenox Diemaster2  1/4"  4 tip is my sweet spot.

"Uh oh, Spaghetti-O's! I will let you know how it goes

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Yes, three wheeler's are generally panned.  I am happy so far. The manual goes into detail regarding proper setup and alignment and is easy to follow. I got it turning yesterday. My first project was to cut a 2x2x 1/2 square that I then made into a circle. I am refurbishing my P-51 yard whirly gig that I made without power tools a few years back. The part that held the propeller blades was cracking.

 

The blade was not difficult to install and it is still tracking center after my cuts. I found a guy that prints table inserts. 

 

This is by no means a saw I would depend on to crank out salable widgets. I am hoping that by frequently checking my tracking and keeping it clean it will last for my next few small projects.

I agree with Captain Shaun....If I could only have one power tool this would be it. So easy to cut

1st project.jpg

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