Polaris by JDillon - OcCre

[JDillon]

Hi Cathead, wasn't sure how to link as im new to this but the photos are from Baltic Submariner's build log on MSW, i did mention the authors name so they got credit.

 

Joe

[JDillon]

Here is a link to the build log of the pictures i used for my gun ports size enquiry.

[ccoyle]

Paul certainly took some liberties with his interpretation of the kit, and of course you can, too, if you wish. The four waist guns on Paul's model don't look out of place, but as was mentioned, the six forward guns don't have enough room to be worked. On top of that, if we assume for the sake of discussion that the guns are 2-pdrs (4-pdrs at most), each weighing about 600 lbs for just the gun, then ten guns and their carriages amount to over three tons of weight on deck -- that seems a little sketchy to me.

[JDillon]

I agree it would be impractical in the real world but he has made some modifications that make it look very nice. 

 

I originally planned to have a small row boat off the back on mine also, i personally feel the kit lacks a little, as my first build i thought it would be good to add a little extra  so i could improve my skills, i am fully aware that the kit is for a beginner, hence why i chose to follow those new starters before me.

 

I'm just not happy with the 3 tone wood effect of the finished article and want to put my little spin on it without being unrealistic, i think the build logs are a valuable asset for us to see the amazing skill of the membership. I was curious as to what can be done modification wise but as a newbie i've fallen into the trap of being lured into astetics over practicality or period correctness 🤣

 

As the Polaris is not based off any official vessel I think we have quite a lot of flexibility. However I do value everyones comments on my first build log and always welcome imformation that helps with my lack of knowledge and understanding.

 

I would like some advice on what i can adjust on the kit so its not so boring...... to me anyway.

 

(My Terror will be as accurate as I can get it thanks to Clearway, Keith S and DanielD (appoligies for no other mentions but i haven't gotten around to viewing any other Terror build logs yet) as i will be trying to follow in their footsteps. But thats my next build and will comence after this build.)

 

I am not experienced enough to know what the best route to take with this is yet but i like the red and black of Baltics Subs, build but i'm struggling to find paint scheme for the hull, i'm leaning to the outer bulwarks being white. It's the hull im getting flustered with. Its my first build and the outer planking isn't great, i would like to have it painted below the water line and have a stained wood above but stopping at the rubbing rail. But im not experienced enough to get the wood of the rudder and prow to match the vaneer and it doesn't look right (see RH-J's picture with the Occre inner bulwarks and blue outer bulwarks a few posts back on here) a credit to RH-J as it does look very nice.

 

Joe

 

 

[clearway]

there are plenty of pics of coasting schooners around online to give inspiration, just adding barrels and other clutter to the decks and adding more realistic ships boats in the waist and off stern davits can work wonders, Also check out some of the schooner builds in build logs to see how they have made the masts etc. Again also highly recommend plank on frame models by harold underhill (volume 1 covers hull and volume 2 covers masts/ yards/ rigging), I agree with Chris , the cannons just dont look right as no room for loading/recoil.

 

Keith

[JDillon]

I agree Keith, cannon idea has been shelved, i'm going to try staining the hull using Mahogany Danish Oil (I,ve found several tins in the garage unused) first bit of good luck i've had in ages. Going to stick with 2 ships boats for now. if i painted the top of the prow and rudder black above the water line do you think that would look ok? I've found both Underhill books on facebook very cheap 😮, im hoping they can post if not will have to order of the internet next week, very expensive though. will stain and paint tomorrow and post pictures for review....

 

I have also asked DanielD for some advise on doing some LED's on the Terror (Not his spinning prop though) as that needs a plan early on. Have looked online a schooners, most are black and white or white and wood, some red below water line and green. Do all model builders go through this indicision or am i being a knob? if it was a cheap airfix kit i would buy 3 or 4 and try out different schemes - expensive ships are a bit harder to muck about with. But hey its a learning and i suppose it would be a boring hobby if it was all straightforward and easy.

 

Joe

[clearway]

na Joe the indecision and where to go scenario gets to most who decide to move away from standard kit instructions- if modelling pre 1800 go with white for below waterline or copper sheeting, if a baltic or other cold water ship black will suffice as no shipworm 😜. One of the other terror builds has done the black prow/ stern with varnished wood hull so check his build out but i would stick with stain all around if not painting.

 

Keith

[allanyed]

Go to the RMG Collections site  for some excellent photos of similar contemporary models.   https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Coastal schooner models    Click on each one for multiple views.  Not sure any will help, but may give you some ideas for your own version.

Allan

[Cathead]

On 9/22/2022 at 1:49 AM, JDillon said:

if it was a cheap airfix kit i would buy 3 or 4 and try out different schemes

Have you considered making some simple drawings, using colored pencils to sketch out different color schemes? If you have digital skills you could take a photo of the hull and use a simple art program to lay different colors over that. Having a set of comparable images/drawings in different color patterns may help you (and anyone you want to run it by) make a decision.

[JDillon]

[JDillon]

[Baltic_submariner]

Hello, I got pinged so I'm back 😃

 

Your Polaris look interesting and I see that you added side planks on deck.

 

From perspective of time I agree that number of side guns or their arrangement was too big/tight. If I would made such ship again ( what isn't impossible ) I would stay with one gunport per side less and mount smaller cannons with big rearrangement of their positions ( model is in size and scale of Le Renard with 14 guns if I remember this corectly but now looking at such guns I feel my heresy with them ) Rest of additions were still needed for me to avoid so many empty spaces. Polaris is very nice ship for customization. 

[JDillon]

I'm a fan of your work Baltic, regardless of scale or accuracy it has helped me with mine. I've made the davits for the rear tender, im just glad you did it as i was going to do that but had no reference to use.

 

Trouble with a first build is you have to learn, first time ive painted a model in 30 years, im confident my second build will be 80% better. Also the Taff rails did not line up with the prow piece despite the bulwarks being spot on.

 

New builders beware, detach from sprue and dry fit them after you attach bulwarks to the deck to check as it will be to late if you wait until the instrutions tell you to fit them.

 

[clearway]

It is a learning curve with ship kits- each problem you come across prepares you for next time, though different manufacturers have different "bugs" in their kits. The colour scheme is looking good Joe, and i  would leave her natural wood between the rubbing strake and waterline.

 

Keith

[JDillon]

Thanks Keith, i've danished oiled the hull and will be keeping it natural as per your recomendation, it has a few light spots though, i will give it another coat then use Occre Satin varnish like i did on the deck. do you varnish the paint work also? 

 

I used the Judea Bitumin paint on the keel, amazing paint it gives the right colour for wood and a worn rinish. Seems to sell out quick, got mine from Poland, only 1 per customer! but i've just seen Cornwall MB have got fresh stock in.

[clearway]

i use Ronseal acrylic matt varnish for mine- though i never actually apply varnish till all the fittings are pinned/ glued in place as otherwise you are relying on the varnish coat to act as a bond rather than any wood/metal.

 

Keith