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Posted

SR was in that transition period when reefing was coming into vogue.  As I briefly mentioned earlier, reefing begets footropes because of the way the sail has to be gathered and tied at the top of the yard where, with the former method, the sailors would be standing or sitting.

 

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

Posted
4 minutes ago, popeye2sea said:

SR was in that transition period when reefing was coming into vogue.  As I briefly mentioned earlier, reefing begets footropes because of the way the sail has to be gathered and tied at the top of the yard where, with the former method, the sailors would be standing or sitting.

 

Henry

It's incredible to me that they worked that way .... I wonder about the attrition rate due to falls ...

Posted

Do any of you have Amazon Prime Video?  There is a great series on there. You have to either scroll of type in the search. It is titled “Worlds Greatest Ships”.  There are episodes about a number of great English historical ships. So far I have watched the one on Golden Hinde, Endeavour, and HMS Victory. So very good and enlightening. 

Posted

Yes. Have you seen the "Great Engineering" series at all? Very very good, ranging from constructing a 19th century offshore lighthouse on a wave-swept rock off Scotland, to building the "Great Eastern". Fascinating ship. I wouldn't mind making an RC model of her, complete with side paddlewheels and stern screw and masts too.

Posted

I have determined that as a result where I placed the lashings (Henry and hat is the natutical term) around the mast, and the size beads I am using, I can only fit a two roll parral on the fore mast to hold the fore yard. I will still put an eye at each end and rig as I would have a three roll. I know this is probably not completely correct but will represent the parral. Still needs painting of course. 

IMG_3933.jpeg

Posted

Also, you could definitely do the parrel right if you wanted. There's certainly enough space there, and you could definitely find or make a belaying setup.

If you want to do the parrel as it would have been, refer to the point at which i explained parrels and square sail tacking in this log. 

Posted (edited)

Ferrus I have several reference sources for how the parrals are rigged it is just with the space and the supplies I have two rolls looks better than when I tried 3 rolls. With 3 the bottom roll is up on the lashing and looks crooked. I am still going to rig the falls down to tackles at the deck level. Since I seriously doubt anyone that views my model in its display case will critique if I have two or three rolls of trucks on my fore yard parral I believe I will just live with it. I don’t know that I have ever on any of my numerous builds done the foot ropes in black lines. Interesting. You are probably right to protect them from the weather. 

Edited by Bill97
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Bill97 said:

No Ian. I have not. Where would I find it?  Or I can just Google. 

I can't seem to find it.  TVO broadcast it a couple of years ago; I thought it was on the "Impossible Engineering" series but googling that did not reveal an episode on this ship. There are, though, some interesting youtube videos on her.

 

 

Edited by Ian_Grant
Posted (edited)

Ian actually I am going to try my very first fully wooden ship. I purchased the OcCre Endeavour. Be a while before I open that box. Don’t have the electronics skills for RC , I don’t think😊

Edited by Bill97
Posted
2 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Ian actually I am going to try my very first fully wooden ship. I purchased the OcCre Endeavour. Be a while before I open that box. Don’t have the electronics skills for RC , I don’t think😊

Electronics skills really aren't required; one simply plugs servos into receiver, plugs battery into receiver, powers up transmitter and receiver, and the entire RC set works.  You only need to plug an ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) into a receiver servo slot, and connect the ESC to the motor, and your entire drive system works.

 

But it is a different "endeavour" from static building ........

Posted

Bill,

 

The yard , with it's parral, look fantastic.

One question though. Have you left out the halyard and tye? Or have you just not rigged it yet.

The selvagee strops that you added to the yard inside the cleat are what take the ends of the tye. The two parts of the tye then lead up over the cap and down to a ramshead block for the halyard tackle. That is how the yard is hoisted and suspended in place.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

Posted
9 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Electronics skills really aren't required; one simply plugs servos into receiver, plugs battery into receiver, powers up transmitter and receiver, and the entire RC set works.  You only need to plug an ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) into a receiver servo slot, and connect the ESC to the motor, and your entire drive system works.

 

But it is a different "endeavour" from static building ........

You’re on a [d]roll today, Ian!

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Posted (edited)

No Henry. In fact I am rigging that as we speak (text). 😊
Looking at your page 6 to see exactly how you attached the hitch to the selvage. 

Edited by Bill97
Posted

Guys I am striking out on determining the correct belay points for the Runner and Halliard for the fore topmast. I have read through the section in Anderson’s book and studied the rigging points plan with the kit and the old 1970s instructions. From what I can gather the block with hook (h1) attaches to an eyebolt on one side of the ship aft of the fore mast. The other end of line 1052 after passing through block (m1) attaches to an eyebolt directly across the ship on the other side. I am thinking it is points a11 and a12 on the aft ends of the channels. I think I read Anderson’s book to understand the points are to be on the inside of the bulwark. No where on the diagram can I find line #1052. What do you think?

IMG_3957.jpeg

IMG_3958.jpeg

Posted (edited)

The way the tackle is set up is incorrect and should not be rigged. 1052 should actually be an eyebolt near the end of the fore channel on either the bulwark itself or slightly inside. The tackle itself should fall to a eyebolt near the same place on the other side of the ship, and the fall for the tackle should be belayed on a pin (or cleat or rail) near or on the bulkhead directly fore or aft of the tackle itself. A5 and A6 might actually be the eyebolts in question.

Or so i understand. 

Edited by Ferrus Manus
Posted
Posted

Ferrus I think we are close to seeing and saying the same thing. 1052 is the number of the rope. The arrow at the end indicates it is heading somewhere. Based on what you are saying and what I am reading  I cannot determine if it is eyebolt a12 on the channel or a6 inside on the deck. I think what I am going to do is tie 1052 to eyebolt a12 on the starboard channel. Then on the opposite side of the ship I am going to attach block (h1) to eyebolt a11 on the port channel. Then instead of wrapping the fall around block (h1) I am going to tie it inboard on eyebolt a5. If later I find eyebolt a5 had another purpose I will just add another eyebolt. 
 

Baker I had the same thought as well. I will be tying the parral lines on the mast top. 

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