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Posted

@SaltyScot  So far so good Mark!

 

20250421_143933.thumb.jpg.affce02b1061722ab18a595debb1dc2b.jpg

 

Constructo non-magnetic mystery metal, blued by dipping in Brownell's Gun Blue, rinsed with copious amounts of fresh water, and finally oiled with RemOil and Ballistol.

 

They're black as night and don't leave any residue on the white paper towel, so hopefully we're good to go.

Steve

 

San Diego Ship Modelers Guild

Nautical Research Guild


Launched:    USS Theodore Roosevelt, CVN 71 (1/720, Plastic)

                       USS Missouri, BB 63 (1/535 Plastic) 

                       USS Yorktown, CV 5 (1/700, Plastic)

 

In Dry Dock:  Prince de Neufchatel, New York 1812 (1/58, Wood)

                        USS Enterprise, CVAN 65 (1/720, Plastic)

Posted

    I remember seeing a model in a museum in the LA area where the 'pot metal' parts had all disintegrated into piles of grayish-white dust.  I was told they were the lead fitting used a loooong time ago.  I think the newer mystery metals such as Britannia don't do that (at least in my lifetime). 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted

Part of the problem with the white pot metal (pewter?) fittings used on older models came from the cases they were mounted in. Some of the woods or finishes gave off acetic acid fumes. The cases were air tight, so the acid fumes built up and turned the metals (zinc, lead and tin) into metal acetate salt powders.

 

The moral of the story is to use acid free materials and ventilate the cases.

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

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