USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82

[src]

Rich, if the bleach doesnt work try oxalic acid - Rockler carries it I think. So should Ace Hardware or any good paint store.

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks for the suggestion of Oxalic Acid. The bleach didn't work.

Edited April 3, 2014 by Hipexec

[HIPEXEC]

This is how I bend & shape & mount my fore toprail. It's two double 2mm x 2mm pieces bent & glued. First I soak the wood in clean plain water this time, then clamp them to the cutout from the false deck, which is close, but not net shape. Then I fine tune the bend in my jig. Then cut to fit with my miter box & glue. This piece was not pinned since it will have side supports to stabilize it

Edited April 3, 2014 by Hipexec

[HIPEXEC]

Here's how I'm bending trim 1mm x 5mm  planks for the curved bow pieces. After a 15 minutes soak, I placed them side by side in the jig that came with my heating iron. I placed some smaller plank pieces over the parts so as not to mar them with the clamps, then slowly increased the bend until they lay flat against the curve of the jig. Now they're drying. When dry, I'll cut & trim to fir, then glue them. This is my second try, since the clamps made marks on my first attempt.

Edited April 4, 2014 by Hipexec

[HIPEXEC]

As I clamped some trim pieces today using clothespins, I had to laugh. So far I have used all these items in the picture to clamp various items in place. I've probably forgotten a few, but I can't imaging how many more I will employ by the time I am finished.

[HIPEXEC]

I've put more trim on the transom & galleries. I've selected my own choice for a lot of this since I don't think Constructo's choices will work. This is a good model to help folks transition to scratch built since Constructo doesn't give many pre-cut pieces and ridiculous choices that they provide.

[HIPEXEC]

Bow toprails trimmed and I'm bending more transom trim.

[HIPEXEC]

After I finish trimming the wood parts on the transom, I'm going to take a break before tackling the whole bow section since it is chuck full of complex parts I must fabricate myself since there are no pre-cuts. I'm going to take that time to micro sand and scrape all the glue smudges I've left in my wake. I will also fill in many of the small cracks and voids left while I plunged ahead to get to this stage.

[HIPEXEC]

I'm shaping the last trim parts for the transom. After that, it's just the windows and fancy metal decorations much later.

[HIPEXEC]

HELP!!!

I need some tips and tricks to mount a rudder. I had a real tough time getting the rudder on with my first build. Couldn't seem to keep those hinges nice and lined up. Also the nails are too long.

 

Anyway all help is welcome.

[Karleop]

Hola Rich,

 

what I made is to fix the upper and lower hinge and then put the others in between.  About the nails, you can cut them to the desired size and fix them with a little drop of glue in the lower hinge in order to maintain it in their place.

 

Saludos

[HIPEXEC]

Hola,

Thanks for the tip.

Gracias

[HIPEXEC]

I just glued the first of two curved trim pieces on the transom. Constructo wanted me to glue a shaped (by me) 1mm round brass wire for these. I couldn't see how a round wire would stay glued on, so I made these out of 1mm x 1mm blond wood. It took a bit to get them bent just right, but this is my solution.

[patrickmil]

Rich, the wood is a good solution. Nice looking transom so far.

[augie]

Nice work on that curved molding. 

[src]

Rich
She is starting to come to life.
When I mounted my rudder I first mounted everything to rudder itself. Ten then I slid the rudder in place and clamped it off. Once I was satisfied with where it sat I transferred some lines to the hull and drilled a couple of starter holes for the nails. I used those predeilled holes with unglued nails to hole HOLD everything in place while the epoxy set up. Then I drilled and epoxied in the remaining nails. After all that I pulled out the unglued temp nails and glued those in.
Hope this all makes sense.
Sam

Edited April 7, 2014 by src

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks for the rudder tips.

 

I just finished the second curved trim on the transom. Now I have to clean up my mess and make the hole in the bow for the bowsprit before I hang too much more on the ship while I wrestle with that hole.

Edited April 7, 2014 by Hipexec

[HIPEXEC]

Making the hole for the bowsprit was harder than I thought. I made most of it with my hand drill making the hole larger and larger. But, I had to very carefully finish to the full 8mm with my Dremel. I don't like putting power tools against my hard fought hull, but I had no choice. Anyway, it worked out.

[Karleop]

Nice work Rich,

 

saludos, Karl

[usedtosail]

That is looking very nice, Rich.

[HIPEXEC]

What's the best  glue to fix the metal hinges to the wood rudder?  

[dgbot]

Go with epoxy

David B

[src]

Yes, epoxy. Make sure the back side of your metal is nice and shiny clean also. Some alcohol to take any oils off wouldn't hurt either. The alcohol is for the oils on the metal not your skin BTW; although I firmly believe if you aren't hurting anybody, do as you will!

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks for the tip on epoxy. What brand is best for our type models?

 

Here I am working on the rudder. It isn't any easier than my first model...it's probably twice as difficult. The hinges Constructo provided are not the right size, so I have to straighten out and then re-bend them to fit a much thicker rudder.

 

I made the simulated plank effect with my miter box saw. It made very nice and straight cuts that really look like I glued together three planks.

 

Also, the pin material they provided is way too thick, so I had to scrounge up some smaller stuff. Since I can't seem to make absolutely square bends when I re-bend the brass, I compensated and rounded the rudder to accommodate the slight roundness. It seems to work, but I've been at just one of four cuts I have to make, so I'm planning on two more days at this.

 

I'm not complaining, it's just my Admiral keeps asking when I'm starting the masts and rigging??? She has no idea what it takes...?

[augie]

Bowsprit hole looks great.  I share your fear of power tools and hulls.

 

Yes, epoxy is best as you can easily wipe off any excess with alcohol while it's still not set.  Just scuff up the metal contact surface as you're not dealing with a whole lot of stress on the rudder parts.   I use what they stock in the local hobby shop.  Comes in 6 minute and 15 minute set times.  They make some that take even longer to cure.

[src]

Rich, the rudder looks good. I will have to remember the scoring trick. As far as epoxy, I use something called Devcon 5 minute epoxy. It works well for me, I got it at an R/C store. I would think any good hardware store will have something also, I know the Big Orange Box store has it - Home Depot. its a 3m product at the HD.

 

It appears Constructo uses stock hinges for their kits; yours look suspiciously similar to the hinges in my kit.

I forget which book I read it in but I recall the leading edge of the rudder wasnt square - more pointed and then tapered slightly towards the stern so I would think your good with your rounding over.

 

For the nails (actually bolts) I used some brass wire heated and peened over - very time consuming but it worked. There is a forum topic here that describes making nails that is much more efficient. I wish I read it before I made mine! 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/

 

Sam

[HIPEXEC]

Thanks Sam & Augie!

[HIPEXEC]

Got the DEVCON 5. How long is that stuff good for after use?

[dgbot]

I believe 5 minutes after you mx. Always use a little at a time.

David B

[src]

Rich,

About five minutes - depends on temperature though. Inside with the AC on you should be good. I have had it go off real fast though but that was in a very hot shop, 100 degrees+. I just do a drop or two of each bottle on some wax paper and mix well with a tooth pick. smaller batches like that will not generate as much heat so they cure a bit slower.

If your asking about shelf life after opening, the kit I have here is about a year old and still good. Extreme temperatures seem to shorten the shelf life. Its not uncommon for our shop to go from the mid 30s in the winter to well over 100 in the summer and that seems to ruin the hardener, the cold especially. Again I am assuming your in A/C so that shouldnt really be an issue for you.

Sam