Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL

[Mark Pearse]

Thanks everyone.

 

More metalwork: this time the bowsprit chain plates. The whisker stay chain plates are pretty straightforward, note the portholes openings have been cut. 0.8mm brass sheet, which is probably a little heavy.

 

The bobstay chainplate is more complex, & it became clear that with my simple kit multiple solder joints in this case would be very difficult, so I made the main parts from one sheet (0.5mm), with back-mitres so it could be folded & then soldered to fill & stabilise the folds. Then the chainplate cleat was soldered to the edge, tinned etc (cleat 0.8mm thick). A paper template was used to confirm the fold angles, as brass is only happy to be folded once, & solder never.... The fixings are some 1mm diameter brass rivets approximately 7mm long, so a 1mm hole, add some CA glue & press the rivet into it. The back-mitring was done with a jeweller's saw & also a small file with a square cross section. The mitre is also slightly wider towards the edges, so that the main piece could be curved to suit the stem profile.

 

The side flange fixings are some unbelievably tiny brass nails, too small & I could hardly pick them up.

 

 

 

 

 

[wefalck]

This metal-work looks so convincing 👍🏻

 

Indeed, welded construction is not so easy to reproduce. Perhaps, I would have soldered this over a mock-up of the bow to give the flanges the right angles and distances. There are solders of different melting points, which requires a temperature-controlled soldering iron. The railway modellers who build locomotives from PE brass parts are masters of this art. 

[Rick310]

Beautiful!!

Rick

[KeithAug]

9 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

The bobstay chainplate is more complex,

Beautiful set of flanges Mark.

[Kenchington]

I'm having to look twice at that image of your bobstay plate to persuade myself that it isn't really a stainless-steel fitting on a full-size hull! You have achieved just the slight patina that stainless takes in the presence of saltwater!

 

Trevor

[Jim Lad]

Now that bobstay plate is really nice, Mark.

 

John

[druxey]

Well done, Mark.

[Mark Pearse]

Thank you. 

 

More metalwork, this time the gammon & cranse irons, & installing the portholes. 

 

The 'glass' was the right thing to do, & the effect of the reflection heightens the depth relative to the hull line. Thanks for the frank advice, it was good.

 

The cranse iron done & on the end of the bowsprit, it's some tube, capped & with flanges. It's unusual to have the end capped, but looks good.

 

The gammon iron is a bit more complex. Here's the actual:

 

I had to cut some strips off 0.8mm sheet, then do 90º bends around a suitable rod.

 

Adjust to square:

 

The back-cut v joints for the 90º folds:

 

Soldered:

 

Then the brackets that take the bow rollers, plated etc. The rollers are tufnol I think, so they are coloured brass.

 

And installed. The bracket at the top still needs a 'bolt'. The bowsprit on the actual boat is (what we call) Oregon Pine, I think is actually called Douglass Fir, so mid orangey brown, the scale one is Limewood, with enough coats of shellac to get the colour.

 

thanks all, 

Edited January 15 by Mark Pearse

[wefalck]

Your metal work looks just so good and convincing 👍🏻

 

If I am not mistaken, Tufnol is a kind of cotton-fabric reinforced phenolic resin (Bakelite). It also goes by the trade name of Novotex, for instance. It is normally a kind of reddish mid-brown. It is light, wear-resistant (in the former GDR car-make Trabant, some of the transmission gears were made from it, as well as parts of the bodywork), and weather-resistant. On yachts, block-sheaves and -shells are made from it.

 

[Rick310]

Always amazing!!

Rick

[Jim Lad]

More delightful blacksmithing, Mark!

 

John

[Mark Pearse]

14 hours ago, wefalck said:

Tufnol is a kind of cotton-fabric reinforced phenolic resin (Bakelite)

Hi Eberhard

 

Yes, you can certainly see the natural fibre reinforcement in it. There's still several ranges of yachting blocks, cleats etc made from it.

 

The actual rollers on the boat are tufnol - for the model I used brass rod & coloured it. 

Edited January 16 by Mark Pearse
clarity

[Bedford]

I'm loving the metalwork Mark, looks brilliant!

[KeithAug]

Beautiful metalwork Mark.

[Mark Pearse]

Thanks for all the comments.

 

The gooseneck of any boat is a pleasure to look at, how they resolve the need to move in a range of directions, & cope with some really significant forwards thrust. For this boat, this is the actual gooseneck:

 

This shows the pieces that make up the version for the model. The curved plate is from a tube. The assembly on the right hand side is on the end of the boom, & the eye flange extends into the end of the boom (& will be epoxied), for extra strength. Solder alone might be too weak. The lines are fabricated, rod with tube, or rod with a brass washer.

 

And below, after finishing, plating & polishing. The horizontal pin is gently riveted to a loose washer on the near side, the assembly was rested on the vise & I tapped the end of the pin with a light joiners hammer that I treasure. The vertical pin is held by a second piece of tube on the bottom, fixed with gel CA glue, it just needs to be held in place, no loads.

 

 

 

And fixed to the boom. Some details are left off, & I think having them on can look wrong - even though it's actually correct. EG for the curved plate that sits on the mast, the actual has more screws, I left off one each side. Writing this, I just noticed something that I did incorrectly...& will leave it as the boom was quite a bit of work. The boom is a lovely octagonal shape full length, & tapered in both directs. The actual has a ridge on the top centreline (& therefore top, bottom, each side), whereas I have the boom rotated one half of one eighth of 360º.... At this stage it's definitely staying, & I might even deny that it's wrong...... 

[Jim Lad]

Nice!

 

John

[Bedford]

Looks really good Mark and that tinning solution is a game changer