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Posted (edited)

I have attempted to make goggle sticks in a sort of mass produced way, Ie cut a good number to length- no problem. make a template as accurate as possible from  thicker  plywood and then clamp each strip to the template and cut off a number of google sticks and give a light sanding. I have tried cutting them with a scalple knife and with very sharp chisel . The material is 1mm tanganyka which is very soft and both the knife and chisel cut the wood fairly easy. I am still having problems with leaving small gaps and wonder how I can possibly get them to fit better before cutting into the margin plank. Surely I don,t need to make each one like I have made the template or make each one to fit in situe if that makes sense? When I have made a batch, most of them do not fit exactly and I need to swap them about like a jigsaw puzzle. Joggling is definately an apt word for them.

 

      

20230417_181823.jpg

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20230418_161017.jpgAny ideas would be very much appreciated before I bury myself in joggling sticks

Edited by DaveBaxt

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

Posted

Carpenters make parts to fit in situ, using the part against which the second part fits as template. From an engineer's point of view this looks pretty 'artisanal', but it really works ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

Thinking of cutting a template out of metal  and sanding several sticks at once using a disc sander. Hopefully I can meke the template as accurate as possible, although I think the wood one was fairly accurate. Just another thought and might work. I could easly make this out of brass or copper sheet but hopefully not too soft.

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Carpenters make parts to fit in situ, using the part against which the second part fits as template. From an engineer's point of view this looks pretty 'artisanal', but it really works ...

Thank you and that is probably what I will end up doing. Thank you for your quick response.Best regards dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

Posted
8 hours ago, wefalck said:

Carpenters make parts to fit in situ, using the part against which the second part fits as template. From an engineer's point of view this looks pretty 'artisanal', but it really works ...

Only way I know of getting it right without too much waste.

Current build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

Posted

I keep coming back to the thought that laying the deck would be a much more satisfying experience were you using an appropriate species of wood, instead of the junk species Anigre.

 

One concept to take to heart is that with a wooden ship of the age of sail = there are seldom two timbers that are identical.  There are mirror images.  Dutch ships in the deadflat may be an exception for a long stretch.  Galleys perhaps. 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

  • Solution
Posted

No two planks are the same. The width of the "nib" is 1/2 (or 1/3 on some vessels) the plank width from one side to the center of the plank, and is the same on all planks. But the angle back to the other side of the plank is determined by the angle of the margin board. So every plank has to be fit in situ.

 

On my current build I planked from the center outward. I cut the nib to 1/2 the plank width. First I marked the center of the end of the plank with a pencil. Then I slid the plank along the already laid inboard plank up to where the end of the new plank came to where the inboard plank met the margin board.

 

With the new plank in this position I marked the margin board along the end of the new plank, out to the center of the plank. Then I marked the position on the new plank where the outboard edge crossed the margin board. I also marked this position on the margin board. Then I trimmed the new plank back from the center of the end to where it crossed the edge of the margin board.

 

Then the plank positioned  over the margin board and the outline was drawn on the margin board. Next I cut the nib into the margin board. Now the plank fits into the cutout in the margin board. This was a lot easier than I had imagined it would be, and the nibs came out symmetrical port to starboard!

 

I have posted photos of the process here:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=605072

 

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted
On 4/19/2023 at 8:18 AM, Dr PR said:

No two planks are the same. The width of the "nib" is 1/2 (or 1/3 on some vessels) the plank width from one side to the center of the plank, and is the same on all planks. But the angle back to the other side of the plank is determined by the angle of the margin board. So every plank has to be fit in situ.

 

On my current build I planked from the center outward. I cut the nib to 1/2 the plank width. First I marked the center of the end of the plank with a pencil. Then I slid the plank along the already laid inboard plank up to where the end of the new plank came to where the inboard plank met the margin board.

 

With the new plank in this position I marked the margin board along the end of the new plank, out to the center of the plank. Then I marked the position on the new plank where the outboard edge crossed the margin board. I also marked this position on the margin board. Then I trimmed the new plank back from the center of the end to where it crossed the edge of the margin board.

 

Then the plank positioned  over the margin board and the outline was drawn on the margin board. Next I cut the nib into the margin board. Now the plank fits into the cutout in the margin board. This was a lot easier than I had imagined it would be, and the nibs came out symmetrical port to starboard!

 

I have posted photos of the process here:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=605072

 

Thank you for explaining that to me as it was most helpfull. Also the link to your work which looks amazing .Hopefully I can imulate something half as good.Thank you. Best regards dave.

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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