USS Constitution by woodartist - Model Shipways - 1/76

[woodartist]

Now I have started work on the bow framework. After I cut out the pattern and found the 3/32" X 2" X 24" piece of wood in the kit, I cut out 2 pieces from the wood strip with a jewler's saw. You can see how close I could saw the piece to the lines, Then I sanded it down to the lines and cut out the notches with a Xacto blade. I used a thin blade and after marking the perimeter to be cut I cut tiny slits, the cut sideways and removed chips, then recut the perimeter and repeated the process.

[Der Alte Rentner]

19 hours ago, woodartist said:

"The bow fillers are in, and the notches marked for removal. I had to go back to them several times in order to get them reduced enough."

 

Yikes, are going to try to cut out the notches with the bow filler blocks already glued into the hull?  That will be fun indeed! 

 

Here's something I thought about doing myself, though didn't, but will suggest as a possible plan B.  It doesn't seem entirely necessary to carve out the notches in the filler blocks, except maybe to keep the orientation of the timbers on track.  You could try making the timbers (and knighthead) 1/8" shorter at the bottom and just gluing these directly to the top of the blocks.  As for the orientation? this can still be achieved by use of the notches in the spar deck framing pieces.  It's just a thought.  I'm really curious to hear about how you dealt with the notches.

 

As for going back several times.  Take a look at my build log for proof that you are not alone in this.  I made the starboard stern filler block no less than 4 times...

 

 

Edited July 29, 2023 by Der Alte Rentner
correct typo

[woodartist]

I think it is a good idea not to make the notches. Once the other framework is in place it will certainly be strong enough. I put the filler in with Weldbond so i can undo the pieces without too much trouble. I think I will try that first.

[woodartist]

well Der Alte Rentner was totally correct! I was not successful in cutting the notches in place. I ended up removing the bow filler and had to make new ones. Thankfully, I had used weldbond to glue the bow filler in so I was able to use alcohol and get them to release.Secondly, the spar deck framing pieces broke while trying to install them. I discovered that my notches were not accurate enough and I had to find a better way to cut the notches. I had a set of micro chisels from Veritas and had seldom used them but the 1/8" Veritas chisel was perfect for the job and a lot more accurate than the xacto blades. I cut the new notches in the bow filler with the chisel as well. I tried multiple ways to get all the pieces assembled and was having no success and getting very frustrated. I went back to member build logs to see if any of them had advice. Sure enough once gain JSGerson had the same problem and decided to first install the spar deck framing piece and the insert the other 5 pattern timbers. He said he had to "fudge" to get them in place. I appreciated his honesty because that was the only way I got them installed as well. Upon completion I checked the measurements with the plans and Hunt's practicum and they were correct. I have also installed the strengthening timbers. If you notice a difference in colors for the wood I used some cherry for timber #4. I have not yet sanded the bow structure, waiting for it to dry. Next onto the transom.

[woodartist]

Work proceeded on the stern transom structure. In the process i needed to saw some non standard angled pieces. I was having issues holding them in place and sawing at the same time, the metal mitre box did not have slots for the angle needed. Then I discovered that if you turned the mitre box upside down and put it in the vice you could freehand a saw cut and hold the wood against the back wall of the upside mitre box. As many others have documented in their build logs the two outside stern supports were difficult to align. i placed a 5/16" wedge between the backside edge and the adjacent support and that seemed to work to finish the alignment. There was a lot of discussion about the bevel on the front edge of all 6 supports and  the bottom of the two outside supports. There is definitely a bevel but be careful it is  very easy to over do it. i did over do it on the first one and was more gentle on the rest.

 

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by woodartist

[woodartist]

Here are the photos i referenced in post but failed to include, my bad,

[woodartist]

Working on the waterways, finished inside bevel for port side, waiting for more wood to arrive before I can do starboard side or planksheers. I still need to bevel backside of waterway before I can install. Soaked wood for 2 hours then set in the jig of push pins in cork board.

[JSGerson]

Just discovered your build today and I feel honored that you took some inspiration from my build log. The USS Constitution model is not for the faint of heart. You need strong wooden boat building experience for this project. And you had enough confidence that you could build this with one hand tied behind your back. I am humbled and my hat is off to you sir. I look forward to your future posts.

Jon

[woodartist]

I have not been happy at all with the quality of my workmanship and the endless issues I was having with the bowsprint. I have rebuilt it two times and it is still not fitting the way it should. This became even more obvious when I was installing the waterway and planksheer. So I am going to redo it again including  replacing bulkhead A. I will not let this deter  me!! Next post will be a few days but it will have something that looks like it should.

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 9/21/2023 at 10:59 PM, woodartist said:

I have not been happy at all with the quality of my workmanship and the endless issues I was having with the bowsprint. I have rebuilt it two times and it is still not fitting the way it should. This became even more obvious when I was installing the waterway and planksheer. So I am going to redo it again including  replacing bulkhead A. I will not let this deter  me!! Next post will be a few days but it will have something that looks like it should.

 

Wow. Taking out bulkhead A after you've installed the bow filler, timberhead and frames?  I can't imagine what kind of issues with the bowsprit could cause this much rework.  I'm really interested to see those pictures when they materialize. 

[woodartist]

Der Alte Rentner was absolutely correct, I was not successful in replacing bulkhead A. So, I threw the whole thing in the garbage and started over. This time I cut out my ow bulkheads from 1/4" birch plywood which is actually 3/16" and the keel from 1/4" cherry. They turned out well, and accurate, and will proceed to repeat the prior process but hopefully without the mistakes made in round one.

 

Edited December 7, 2023 by woodartist
wrong photo

[Der Alte Rentner]

I'm so sorry to hear that. On the other hand, given ALL the tweaking I've had to do to those laser-cut bulkheads, I too have contemplating a restart. 

 

I'm progressing on the lower gun ports, and so far so good.  This is however very time consuming and I won't post pictures until at least the entire starboard side is finished.

 

One question/observation for you Woodartist:  if you're going with the Bob Hunt Practicum, and using dunny cannons, I would suggest scrapping the elaborate construction of the lower gun ports and going instead with filler blocks between the bulkheads.  These would be easily shaped to confirm with the hull shape.  Mounting dummy cannons would really only require drilling well positioned holes. Adding the (closed) gun port covers should then be a snap.. 

 

Stupidly, I did not take thus approach on the starboard side, but will reevaluate when doing the port side.

 

What ever you do, be wary of Hunt's dimensions. It should take you a while to get to the lower gun ports.  By then I will have posted my commentary along with what I think are the right dimensions for positioning the sills.

 

Lastly, remember that Bob's waterways don't conform to the plan. This is not too critical, but should be considered when adding the catheads.  If you plan to cut the waterway to fit the catheads, instead of shaping the catheads to fit the waterway, then it doesn't really matter if you go with the Practicum's instructions.

 

Best of luck to you.

[woodartist]

 Thanks for the suggestions!! I really like how it is progressing now with the bulkhead and keel being in sync with the patterns. It is an amazing difference in how well things fit together. I wish I had done this earlier, and saved myself some of the frustration. I have all the bulkheads in place and the bow and stern filler blocks in place. I never thought about putting filler blocks in all the bulk heads. That would sure simplify things. I will put together the size of pieces I need for the filler blocks ad see if i need to get some more wood. I have a lot of leftover basswood from my bird carving tht may just be enough. I will watch your progress and look forward to your commentary on the right dimensions for positioning the sills.

[Der Alte Rentner]

13 hours ago, woodartist said:

 I will watch your progress and look forward to your commentary on the right dimensions for positioning the sills.

I posted a couple of days ago and the details are there.  I responded separately to your two side bar messages.  Looking forward to seeing your progress on Conny version 2.

[woodartist]

Well as promised, I started from scratch on Conny 2 and I am ready to start on the waterways. I rebuilt/cut out all the bulk heads and keel sections. I used 1/4" birch plywood which had actual thickness of 3/16" just like the laser cut bulkheads, I used yellow cedar for all the keels sections, the bow sections and the stern pieces. The only parts I was able to use from Conny 1 were the four 1/8" stern frames. I am so glad I wet this route rather than ordering new laser cut pieces from the kit builder. I tried to use some cherry for the keel sections but I did not like the way the bearding line/rabbit cuts turned out. So I cut out new ones from the yellow cedar which I am happy with how they turned out. I realized from Conny one that I was going to have to figure out a way to use clamps and other methods when doing parts assembly. When I tried to do it with just my one hand I did not get them properly aligned and so as I progressed parts just did not fit correctly. So far my measurements are all consistent with the plans and the parts all fit. It looks so much better. Now I will start on the waterways.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2023 by woodartist
wrong photos

[mtbediz]

Welcome back. Good luck with your Conny 2. I hope this time things go as they should.

[Geoff Matson]

Sometimes, you just have to regroup and forge ahead. I also am building my Conny with the help of Bob Hunt's practicum. I too scraped my first frame and purchased second one off eBay. I am glad I did and was very happy with my new start. One thing I Can rell you is this model is a bear. It will test all of your skills and patience. Just make sure you have things the way you want before you proceed. A little mistake early on will come back to haunt you. You are doing a great job. I look forward to your progress. 

[Der Alte Rentner]

1 hour ago, Geoff Matson said:

I also am building my Conny with the help of Bob Hunt's practicum. I too scraped my first frame and purchased second one off eBay. I am glad I did and was very happy with my new start. One thing I Can tell you is this model is a bear. It will test all of your skills and patience.

 

Flawed as the Practicum sometimes is, without it, and the build log data base here at the site, I would not even have attempted the Conny build.  

Glad to have the company!   I have maybe another week of diversions to attend to before I return to the shipyard.