Jump to content

Water Based Stain - suggestion


Recommended Posts

Just as long as you understand that the application of water to wood will probably raise the grain and will require at least one additional step to get back to a smooth surface.

 

Pre-treatment with just water or water with ~10% PVA followed by sanding or scraping, done once or twice may negate subsequent swelling.

 

If it is planking that has been bent by soaking in water or heavy steam and that was then sanded or scraped, perhaps any subsequent swelling will not be obvious.

There could be a curious looking surface if only some the the planking needed bending  and was exposed to water.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is your goal in staining?

 

Alcohol based leather dyes  like Fiebing's stain wood ( and everything else)  very well.  

I would experiment with dilution before using full strength.  A little goes a long way.

 

I haven't noticed any raised grain when I have used it.

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used Fiebing leather dye to stain rigging on my last rigged model-good stuff.

 

In my experience conventional wood stains do not work well on the hard close grained woods that we ship model builders like to use.  They are actually more like translucent paint.  After retiring, my father started a business restoring antique furniture.  He made his own stain-  oil based artist pigments mixed in linseed oil.  This is pretty much the same formula used in commercial stains.  Water based stains would use a water soluble pigment and water.  In both cases, the surface tension of the ingredients interferes with absorption into the wood.

 

I believe that a better choice are the various dyes available.  The chemists in our  group can explain how these work.  In addition to the Fiebing leather dyes, a wide selection of wood dyes are available from specialty woodworking houses.  A bottle would probably stain a whole fleet of models.

 

Roger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used Fiebing light brown leather dye to stain some castello boxwood blocks. The parts were dipped into the dye for about a second and then rubbed with cloth to remove excess dye. The sides of the smaller blocks are a nice light reddish brown, but the end grain is almost black!

 

On the larger blocks the sides came out a mottled light and dark brown. I used a paint brush and ethanol to redistribute the stain, but they still look pretty awful!

 

Where the blocks were too dark I dipped them in alcohol until the stain started to bleed and they came out much lighter.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

In my experience conventional wood stains do not work well on the hard close grained woods that we ship model builders like to use.

Ditto. Very true. And both stain and dye will soak into end grain at a far greater rate than side grain. India ink (essentially thinned shellac and lamp black) will work well to mimic ebony on close grained hard woods, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...