Nordkap by robdurant - Billing Boats - 1:50 - RADIO

[robdurant]

Ten more days have given me time to mix up some blue paint for the hull - I've used whole bottles of vallejo paint so that I can re-make this colour if I need to... it's four bottles of blue, four bottles of blue-green, and one bottle of light green-blue. 

 

I've did a test on the planking (which is left over from Barque Stefano), to make sure that Admiralty (Caldercraft) Matt Varnish didn't make the sharpie I used to add caulking, run... it didn't. I also painted the insides of the bulwarks light green-blue, and the top of the superstructure will be this colour too.

 

The planking was stuck in place with carpenter's glue. Once varnished, it should be fine for fairweather sailing. The edging of the planking was achieved by adding a margin plank, which was glued just inside of the bulwark posts. I'm pretty pleased with how it's turned out. Here are some pictures of progress so far. (There are still a few lines of planking to be added on each side to finish the job.)

 

 

[robdurant]

I've completed planking the deck. Once complete, this had a coat of matt varnish (Admiralty paints)

 

 

I was conscious that I really needed to get on with making the stand, so I bit the bullet, and it turned out okay. The stand as designed is pretty flimsy, and I want it to withstand being taken to a lake to sail, so I've glued it onto the build board, and pegged the parts onto the board with 3mm walnut. I modified the design a little, moving the props for the hull to the ends of the cross pieces, so that they provide greater lateral stability, coming further up the sides of the hull. All in all, it's pretty sturdy now. I'm using an old t-shirt to protect the hull, but at some point, I'll put some pads onto the stand to replace it. 

 

 

Now I had the stand, the front end of the stand could be propped up using some books (2.5 centimetres higher at the bow than the stern), and the waterline marked using a biscuit tin with a pencil stuck to it. Basic, but effective. A spirit-level was placed across the bulwarks to ensure that the waterline was level side to side. Once marked, the waterline was masked off with tamiya masking tape, and the section below the line painted with Vallejo Leather Red. I'm still not entirely sold on the blue - it's darker and not as greeney as I'd intended, but I'm hoping daylight will make it look better. In the not too distant future I now need to add the strips on the hull... these will be stuck on with superglue, and touched up as necessary. 

 

 

The weather deck at the bow was now glued in place. I was really pleased with how this went together in the end. The top was bent using my violin rib-bending iron first to get some camber in it, and then stuck in place, with some pins to hold it in place as it stuck. Once dry, the sides could be added, bevelling the edges to help them fit to the hull and deck. It looked a bit rough, but some sanding improved things massively, and with a little filler, it will look really smart. I noticed that the holes in this deck are nowhere near to centred on the part. I'll probably fill them in and re-drill them. I presume these holes are for the hawse pipes and some deck equipment. 

 

 

I've also added the deck onto the superstructure, ready to begin building the wheelhouse on top. This deck has a lot more curve in it than you'd think, and it was a bear to clamp it while gluing. I eventually got there, but not without a little frustration along the way. The best way seemed to be to clamp it in a few places, so it was in the right position, then to add carpenter's glue, and once pushed into place, add superglue along the inside edges where the deck meets the superstructure sides to tack it in place while it sets.

 

 

Finally, the rudder had a couple of coats of the Eze-kote water-based epoxy resin substitute that I've used for the hull, and then a few coats of the leather red to match the hull.

 

Looking at that photo, the cap rail's going to need some more attention before it gets its final coat of black. I can do that at the same time as I clean up the weather deck at the bow. 

 

Thanks for taking an interest. Another bouyancy test is called for soon, I think

 

Rob

[robdurant]

The weather deck at the bow is filled and painted - with a little fettling still to do, perhaps, but I'll do that once I've added the rubbing strips and details on the outside of the hull. I've also made progress with the superstructure, which now has the makings of a wheelhouse, and the deck sections just behind the wheelhouse are being planked. Here are some photos of her on water... The first time she's been ballasted down to waterline (using sheet lead), and she was dry as a bone inside 

 

Thanks for looking in, for likes and for general encouragement. Progress is slow, but definitely heading in the right direction.

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

[Paul Cook]

Hi,  I have just bought the kit (as a static build) and I am really looking forward to “hanging on to your coat tails” through the build.  Excellent few tips so far.  First time as building a “steel” hull as opposed to the usual timber ones.  

[robdurant]

6 hours ago, Paul Cook said:

Hi,  I have just bought the kit (as a static build) and I am really looking forward to “hanging on to your coat tails” through the build.  Excellent few tips so far.  First time as building a “steel” hull as opposed to the usual timber ones.  

Hi Paul,

 

I'm glad if my ramblings are helpful. It's a nice kit to build although there are points where a little more detail would be appreciated in the plans. I've realised that the layout of the parts that build up the superstructure is shown on some 1:1 sheets. Might help you out where I guessed.

 

Nordkap does make up into a handsome model, and I hope you get a lot of enjoyment as you build her, as I have. You'll be able to skip some of the steps I've taken if she's to be static.

 

Rob

[Halsey]

Hi there (Rob),

 

I've just joined the forum as I discovered this topic/thread whilst researching coatings (eg Eze-Kote).

 

Not in any way wanting to "hi-jack" this VERY helpful topic but here are a couple of pics of my efforts - only my second planked boat ever, the first was a Occre Ulises Tug.

 

My question is about coatings the hull has been extensively sanded (not much filler) sealed internally with dilute PVA and painted externally with Acrylic primer/undercoat.

 

I finished the aforementioned Tug with fibreglass matting and was never happy with it nor did I enjoy the process at all.

 

Is Eze-Kote truly the solution - I note you did it at pretty much the same stage I'm at, were you happy to further glue rubbing strakes and fender rails etc and subsequently paint the finished hull after the Eze-Kote or did this take you down a route of expensive finishes/paints and more specialised glue, everything so far has been DIY and aliphatic resin glue.

 

Also to what degree does Eze-Kote smooth the surface (esp with repeated coats?) - I'm not looking for perfection as IMHO hulls should be battered and I'm not expecting to go much further with sanding except in the very obvious areas still not there like the bow, below the water line isn't a concern.

 

Thanks for your indulgence in reading this.

 

 

Edited December 26, 2023 by Halsey

[robdurant]

Hi Halsey

 

Welcome to the forum. It's a great place to get encouragement, support and advice, and you'll find that opinions vary about whether glassing is necessary for an RC boat to be reliably watertight.

 

Having used Eze kote I can confirm that it's lovely to use. It sets up good and hard, cleans up easily and leaves a relatively smooth finish. A little sanding would take out the final brush strokes, but as you say on a model such as this a few marks do not necessarily take away from the working boat feel.

 

My small experience so far suggests that the hull is comfortably watertight enough for occasional sailing. I won't be on the water every weekend, so I don't feel the need to make the finish as robust as others may? My tests in the bath tub have been very encouraging with no sign of water ingress at all.

 

I haven't noticed any scratching or marks in the eze kote finish, and the vallejo acrylics have taken well over the top, with no sign of weak adhesion. 

 

Until I've finished the boat and sailed for a season that's about as much as I can tell you, but early signs are very promising.

 

You are doing a find job with your model. I hope you will start a build log so I can learn from you as well

 

Any other questions, do ask away.

 

All the best, and a very Happy Christmas to you.

 

Rob

[Halsey]

58 minutes ago, robdurant said:

Hi Halsey

 

Welcome to the forum. It's a great place to get encouragement, support and advice, and you'll find that opinions vary about whether glassing is necessary for an RC boat to be reliably watertight.

 

Having used Eze kote I can confirm that it's lovely to use. It sets up good and hard, cleans up easily and leaves a relatively smooth finish. A little sanding would take out the final brush strokes, but as you say on a model such as this a few marks do not necessarily take away from the working boat feel.

 

My small experience so far suggests that the hull is comfortably watertight enough for occasional sailing. I won't be on the water every weekend, so I don't feel the need to make the finish as robust as others may? My tests in the bath tub have been very encouraging with no sign of water ingress at all.

 

I haven't noticed any scratching or marks in the eze kote finish, and the vallejo acrylics have taken well over the top, with no sign of weak adhesion. 

 

Until I've finished the boat and sailed for a season that's about as much as I can tell you, but early signs are very promising.

 

You are doing a find job with your model. I hope you will start a build log so I can learn from you as well

 

Any other questions, do ask away.

 

All the best, and a very Happy Christmas to you.

 

Rob

 

Hi 

 

I have now ordered some Eze-Kote to use on its own.

 

I will put a couple of coats on and see how it goes.

 

I'm very happy with dilute PVA for the internals as that has never let me down, I don't actually dilute PVA, I use builders "surface sealer" bought in 5l container which will last forever - it waterproofs the hull very well and can be liberally applied into all those internal nooks you don't even see and it dries to look like like varnish.

[Paul Cook]

I am relatively new to ship modelling.  The Nordkap is only my 6th build after a simple Corel sloop, Amarti Fyfie, Occre’s Endeavour and Endurance and Vanguard’s model HMS Sphinx.  Many of the above had brilliant instruction booklets; the Occre kits supported by really good video clips to access.  As a note to anyone at my stage things of the Nordkap, Billing’s level of instruction is very different and very very basic.  Thank heavens for all the advice in this forum helping me through.  I chose this build to have a change from endless cannons, lanyards and ratlines.   I am really enjoying the challenge but am so grateful for this site.  Keep up the good work.  

[robdurant]

5 hours ago, Paul Cook said:

Billing’s level of instruction is very different and very very basic.

Somehow I found myself doing two builds where the instructions were much more basic than my previous models, and it does mean that more of my energy is spent on convincing myself to keep plugging away than it was on the builds I did before. I do find I get satisfaction from working out my own solutions, so it's just part of the process. Definitely a word to the wise for those setting out, though. There are various stages where the Nordkap simply leaves you to work it all out for yourself.

[Halsey]

On 12/30/2023 at 2:32 PM, robdurant said:

Somehow I found myself doing two builds where the instructions were much more basic than my previous models, and it does mean that more of my energy is spent on convincing myself to keep plugging away than it was on the builds I did before. I do find I get satisfaction from working out my own solutions, so it's just part of the process. Definitely a word to the wise for those setting out, though. There are various stages where the Nordkap simply leaves you to work it all out for yourself.

 

I'll second that, it is VERY VERY basic and whilst you may not be an experienced boat builder (I'm not) its not for those without an aptitude for modelling and problem solving - I model Railways and RC planes and have some years of modelling under my belt esp since I early retired nearly 10 years ago.

 

It is a great model though and well worth it just be prepared for a number of dry runs to get it right and take your time.

 

UPDATE - I have just applied EzeKote without matting and even on the first coat it looks like its going to work well - shame it is such a high gloss as that precludes using it as a general sealer (on the decks as an example) but I'm going to overpaint it, also it doesn't "smooth"out as it dries, as would be the case with a true resin, so it has left a slightly disappointing brush mark finish but on the plus side it is very easy to work with and very quick drying.

 

J

Edited January 4 by Halsey

[Halsey]

This thread/topic has been really useful as I had no prior knowledge of Vallejo Paints but now all I can say is WOW - under £3 delivered next day from Amazon (other retailers are available) and 2 pots was enough to apply a generous coat to the model - the coverage is great and the "density" covers everything  - "leather red" makes a great anti-foul/red oxide equivalent.

 

Highly recommended. 

 

Thanks again

Edited January 7 by Halsey

[Halsey]

BALLASTING???

 

Anyone got experience of ballasting one of these ships??

 

I have just put her into the bath for the first time and have two observations 

 

• She is VERY unstable (particularly when compared to the Occre Ulises)
• She seems to need app 2KG of ballast to even start to get her sitting correctly in relation to the indicated waterline

What materials do people use for this level of ballasting, it feels quite intimidating and poses a number of access problems at this build stage even to the point that it might need an access hatch cutting into my deck work to get it in the right place as clearly as she is so twitchy it needs to sit on the keel?

 

What about externally ballasting the keel with lead strip??

 

I cant find any ref to this problem after a quick "trawl" (sorry 😀) of the net.

 

Looking forward to reading the replies

 

Cheers

 

J

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Lead (glued) is the best way to ballast a ship model.

 

Yves

[Ian_Grant]

I bought lead shot and poured into the bilge compartments formed by the framing, afterwards sealing with epoxy resin.

[yvesvidal]

2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

I bought lead shot and poured into the bilge compartments formed by the framing, afterwards sealing with epoxy resin.

Perfect.

[Halsey]

Thanks for all this - the shame for me is the realisation that I will need to cut a hole in the decks to access the right area to place the ballast - obviously this can be disguised as a set of fish/catch storage tanks so its not a big issue 

 

I have started this "sub topic" so others can find it and realise the mods that need to be done during the build which would be much easier.

 

2kg of lead shot now ordered (£17) and gorilla epoxy - QUESTION - I will try to make a "container" amongst the hull frames do I place the shot and then dribble glue on top or do I make a "soup" and then pour that in?

 

I have contacted Billings about this and they have acknowledged the issue.

 

I will wait until I'm in the right mood to do this!

 

Cheers

 

J

Edited February 2 by Halsey

[yvesvidal]

I would pour the shots, place them where you want them to be and then pour the resin on top.

Resin is worse than water (in a way) and will seep through every little holes and cracks you have.

 

Yves

[Ian_Grant]

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

I would pour the shots, place them where you want them to be and then pour the resin on top.

Resin is worse than water (in a way) and will seep through every little holes and cracks you have.

 

Yves

Concur. I gradually poured the resin and stirred the shot around, my theory being that if a solid gelled mass was formed between the frames it would take some of the stress off the thin skin.

[Halsey]

All good - that will be easier as access to the most forward compartment is difficult so gel on top will work best

 

I tried the principle out in the bath yesterday with shot in plastic sealed bags 500g each and it worked well 2-2.5kg will be needed but getting it low down has reduced the twitchy aspects and it doesn't seem matter too much where its placed so long as it definitely forward of the battery which this new hatch is - the hatch will be disguised with the air vents and the kit has a substantial winch set up which will sit on the rear (brown) section which will have a planked effect

 

EDIT - replaced deck photo as I did the winch today, not quite finished but very pleased with it

 

I'll stop hijacking Robs topic now 🤫.............

 

Thanks 

 

J

 

Edited February 3 by Halsey

[robdurant]

Very nicely done. Thanks for sharing.

[Halsey]

Hi Rob,

 

Sorry to have slightly hijacked your topic - hopefully you will be able to catch your build in time to resolve this issue relatively easily.

 

I'm not sure the ballast placement is critical so long as it's forward of the cabin and as low in the hull as possible - apart from the new hatch my only other issue might be to move the battery.

 

Have fun.............

 

J

[No Idea]

I have used lead shot just as you have and it works great.  The only difference that I did was to line to compartment with cling film first.  I then put in the lead shot and poured in the resin.  Once set I could lift the set shot out in one complete lump should I ever need to do any maintenance as it never was stuck to the hull.  

[Ian_Grant]

24 minutes ago, No Idea said:

I have used lead shot just as you have and it works great.  The only difference that I did was to line to compartment with cling film first.  I then put in the lead shot and poured in the resin.  Once set I could lift the set shot out in one complete lump should I ever need to do any maintenance as it never was stuck to the hull.  

Wish I'd thought of that!

[robdurant]

15 hours ago, Halsey said:

Hi Rob,

 

Sorry to have slightly hijacked your topic - hopefully you will be able to catch your build in time to resolve this issue relatively easily.

 

I'm not sure the ballast placement is critical so long as it's forward of the cabin and as low in the hull as possible - apart from the new hatch my only other issue might be to move the battery.

 

Have fun.............

 

J

Thanks 😊 

 

I've been following along with interest but have not been well recently. Lots to give thanks for, though, so I shall just wait patiently until it's time to pick up these threads again. The boats are patient, thankfully.

[Paul Cook]

I am catching up with you all but as mine is a static build, I obviously don’t have the waterproofing and ballasting issues.  As I mentioned before I am a relative novice builder and this is my first non-timber finished hull.  I found the Eze-Kote an excellent way of getting a smooth finish, albeit not one I had to make watertight.  As also previously mentioned, this is not a kit for a beginner and is a bit like being given a box full of unlabelled parts and picture of a clock and being tasked with building a time piece.  That said it is a well made kit, with high quality parts and I am actually liking the challenge.  The helpful advice on this build log has been excellent.  Thanks - I am sure I will need more help going forward.  

[robdurant]

Hi all. 

 

Apologies that this build has stalled from my perspective. The post here will explain

 

 

Blessing on you all.

 

Rob