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Posted (edited)

It would depend upon the model kit. One should expect that plastic parts would be clean, but it's always possible that they aren't. Handling plastic parts with bare hands prior to painting can certainly leave skin oils that may interfere with a coating. I never worried about it much when I was building plastic models, but, obviously, when in doubt, cleaning the parts is advisable and can't hurt.  A soak and rinse in an appropriate mild cleaning solution which itself is not prone to leaving any sort of residue on the part should be sufficient to remove any oils or grease prior to applying any coating to plastic parts. 

Edited by Bob Cleek
Posted

I've heard or read that the plastic parts can have some residual mold release agent as well.  I often do a quick wash and rinse of the sprues before using them and then try to not touch the actual parts (much) before paint or primer.  Having said that, I've never seen a problem arise from not doing it.  And just make sure you do not wash a small part down the drain while cleaning. :)

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Posted

I wash the parts right before I paint. This gets rid of any sanding dust or other particles that may be on the parts. I dry off the parts with my airbrush or a blow dryer, then paint immediately.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

Posted

I have a lot of experience painting plastic airplane models over the years.  I think it is especially important to clean plastic parts if you will be using acrylic paints.  There are a several things this helps with:

 

1) oils from your skin or mould release can prevent the primer or base coat from adhering properly causing sections to peel off later especially if you will be doing any masking.  This will cause extreme frustration when it happens.  (BTW, you can usually get a do-over with acrylic by soaking the painted part in windex and rinsing the paint off)

2) oils from your skin can leave fingerprints that show up when you paint

3) cleaning helps get rid of hairs, dust, etc.

 

I use liquid dish soap and rinse with cool water.

 

Adam

Posted (edited)

I use both - a weak detergent solution and full strength alcohol. Sometimes on the same parts, mostly not.

It sounds confusing but here's the deal.

 

I use soap and water on the sprues.

I put a sprue in a baking sheet and use a very soft bristled paint brush dipped in the soap solution to clean the parts then rinse them really well.

I use a baking sheet to make sure any parts that may come loose from the sprue during cleaning don't go down the drain.

 

I use soap, then alcohol on the larger pieces, like hulls and decks. That's mostly because they pick up oils after soap cleaning and because the alcohol will ensure a good surface for paint adhesion. I wipe them down with a lint-free cloth saturated with alcohol immediately before painting (I let the alcohol evaporate before painting, of course).

Edited by VitusBering
Posted

I like DAWN dishwashing liquid on plastic and resin parts. After washing you can wear cotton gloves to keep finger oils off. For resins, I wipe them down with alcohol prep pads before priming. And some resins may need a second washing to get the mold release really cleaned off.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

For a water rinse, if your supply is hard water, it may be wise to use distilled water.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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