USS Constitution by SUBaron - Model Shipways (MS2040) - 1:76

[Der Alte Rentner]

glad you got that tenon into the bowsprit end.  My guess is, you didn't make the mis-step in the Practicum.

 

[SUBaron]

Stern Transom

 

For some reason, I’ve really been looking forward to this section. Perhaps because the stern of the Constitution is pretty darn cool and I’ve admired it and the ship for my entire life. For those using the practicum - ignore the section that says something about adding an 1/8” to the back of the transom frames (section 2.2, Pg 17). It will send you on a snipe hunt (it was something likely relating to a mis-step Bob encountered and later fixed). 
 

I first transferred the frame template from plan sheet #2. You will quickly see that the outermost frame lines will not work and will need to be addressed later. I cleaned up my frames with fine grit sanding, and marked on the counter, the necessary 1 1/16” between the frames closest to the centerline and 23/32” between the next outer frame, as advised in the practicum. 23/32” isn’t a measurement I’m used to so I converted it to 11/16ths (I think). When sanding the char from the frames, be sure not to destroy the “knuckles” on the backside, bottom of the frames - or reduce the frame size. 
 

My counter and bulkhead R were a little less square than I realized, resulting in a slight gap when fitting the frames. I was concerned that sanding the frames to compensate would reduce their size. I solved the problem by utilizing some ultra thin strips of decking planks leftover from my Swift build. One was not enough, so I added a second segment on the lower 1/4 of the frame and sanded to fit. I added pictures to show the initial gap and the subsequent fix.

 

I used WeldBond, applying a bit early so it would be sticky and moveable during  placement. I then positioned the frames and measured.  I was off a fraction, so moved outside the line to stick with the true measurement, rather than the lines transferred from the plans - as directed by Mr. Hunt. 
 

To hold down the glued frames, I borrowed a technique I saw in someone’s build log (I can’t recall who). 

Edited March 8 by SUBaron

[Der Alte Rentner]

15 hours ago, SUBaron said:

Stern Transom

 

For some reason, I’ve really been looking forward to this section.

I would guess that you're in the minority with that mindset.  Several build logs have run into issues with the Stern Transom - mine included.  But I love your optimism!  

 

P.S.  Love that you're using Lego blocks...

Edited March 8 by Der Alte Rentner

[SUBaron]

6 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

I would guess that you're in the minority with that mindset.  Several build logs have run into issues with the Stern Transom - mine included.  But I love your optimism!  

 

P.S.  Love that you're using Lego blocks...

Peter - there are issues and there are Issues. The things that typically give me Issues don’t appear to be present in the stern transom build. We shall see!! It may be the first true test of my patience.  Btw - I got a discount email offer from Micromark (apparently I’m now an “Expert” with them, with associated benefits:-)). I ordered the Proportional Divider (with spare tips), small brass clamps and the micro pocket measuring set (calipers). I don’t yet have a good tool for measuring angles, but I’m fairly decent at eyeballing things.
 

And Legos!!! Doesn’t everyone have them? 😂 My daughter still loves doing them with me, so they’re not going anywhere ❤️ 

 

Cheers!

-Andre

[SUBaron]

I attached the next two transom frames. My measurements were slightly off now due to my alignment work on the first frames. So I measured a few times with my digital caliper, glued, then measured and tweaked the placement again until I attained an exact decimal measurement of .718 from front to back between the frames. I almost waited too long to test fit the first cross timber support. Fitment required a slight tweak of the starboard frame that had almost set. I was concerned that it would break. 
 

The frames and cross timber will require some sanding to be true for decking. For the cross timber - I intend to sand it level to the frames, then utilize a caliper to assure uniformity where there isn’t a frame for reference. The Proxxon micro sander is a great tool for these delicate tasks - especially when the wood has already set and my usual sanders are too cumbersome (I use my block sanders a lot). 
 

I’m now working on the 3/8” beveled plank that fits against the back of the transom frames. The practicum directs that this be cut in two at the center line. I can see no reason for this. I think it may be b/c of the rounded counter issue Bob mentions. Did those of you who didn’t mill a rounded counter with a crest, create two cross planks here?

 

 

Edited March 9 by SUBaron
Typo

[GGibson]

22 minutes ago, SUBaron said:

And Legos!!! Doesn’t everyone have them?

 

Yep!  In fact, I keep going into the grandkids' stash kept in the storage room for when they aren't here dragging them out, and I stealing some more! <shrug> 🤣

 

Looking very good so far, Andre!  

[SUBaron]

13 hours ago, GGibson said:

 

Yep!  In fact, I keep going into the grandkids' stash kept in the storage room for when they aren't here dragging them out, and I stealing some more! <shrug> 🤣

 

Looking very good so far, Andre!  

Thanks Gregg! One of the things I really enjoy about this site is seeing the creative way folks utilize everyday items in their builds. I love a new tool, but love creative solutions as well. 
 

-Andre

[JSGerson]

If you like creative uses of everyday items in model build, take a look this log devoted to just that:  The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy

 

Jon

[SUBaron]

6 hours ago, JSGerson said:

If you like creative uses of everyday items in model build, take a look this log devoted to just that:  The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy

 

Jon

I only perused the first few pages for now (I’ll be back!) - there are 14 - love it! Thanks for the link Jon!

[SUBaron]

After some time shaping the aft support beam, I glued the 2 support beams over the transom frames - I chose to ignore the practicum’s direction to cut the aft beam in half - I believe this was to address an issue of a curved counter.   I considered leaving these dry fit to help with the end frame fitting. But after a few attempts at a fitment, it became obvious that for my style, gluing in the support beams was best. It  solved a host of problems, leaving a single challenge of shaping the outer frames to the existing set beams. 
 

One of the outer transom frames was left with an incomplete aft notch. I traced the angle to the matching frame, then used the Scroll saw to bite away at cut. This was preferable to attempting a clean blade cut on this manufactured wood. 

Edited March 10 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

I decided to forego a trip to Target with my girls and affixed the transom end frames. The process was relatively straight- forward as directed by the practicum - and the sheet plan measurements. As has become my go-to method - I measured and fit multiple times until I was comfortable with the fitment. I then glued the starboard transom, adjusted for measurements, and quickly did the same with the port side transom. This way I could still make adjustments to both sides before the glue had fully set. I had pre measured 2 calipers for the top and bottom measurements so I could make adjustments before the glue set. In the end I attained 4 1/4” between the bottom of the outer frames, and just under 4” at the top (as per the sheet plans). I matched the outer frame angle with a piece of stock paper that I had traced from the sheet plans. I also eyeballed the setup with planking on my mind and made a few minor adjustments. 
 

I then cut, measured and glued the stiffeners, beveling to 1/16” at the top.  Just in time because the starboard side thin upper transom had too much play. I ended up with a 1/16” space between the starboard and port end transoms and the edge of the counter. These spaces now require fillers.

 

Before the fillers - I will begin sanding the frames - the outer frame bottoms need some TLC. Everyone loves a round bottom.

Edited March 10 by SUBaron

[Der Alte Rentner]

Having strolled down memory lane (or relived the nightmare?) just now to review my adventures/misadventures in stern transom frame installation, I think I need to point out that the gap at the bottom of the outer frame piece is a smidge larger than the 1/16" that Bob suggests you'll have there.  In Chapter 2.2.2, refer to photo P2.2.2-1.  For comparison, I checked my own photo archive and saw that my filler piece was pretty close to that thickness.  Also note in his photo the relatively smooth transitions between the outer frame, counter, transom and bulkhead R.  You may be doing some fine tuning in this region.  I bring it up because this will rear it's ugly little head when you start planking that area. 

 

Also take a look at the early part of chapter 6.  P6.1.1-7  eg.  I guess it doesn't matter when you do it, but you will be doing some tweaking.  

 

Having said all that, the planks themselves do hide quite a few imperfections. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SUBaron]

5 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

You may be doing some fine tuning in this region.  I bring it up because this will rear its ugly little head when you start planking that area. 

 

Also take a look at the early part of chapter 6.  P6.1.1-7  eg.  I guess it doesn't matter when you do it, but you will be doing some tweaking.  

 

Having said all that, the planks themselves do hide quite a few imperfections. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will take a look at those chapters - thanks for the heads up. I will be doing loads of tweaking - right now I’m a little concerned about “over tweaking”, so I tend to leave things a little rough. It’s typically easier to remove than to add (though definitely not always). For example, I’m not sure exactly how much sanding of the transom and counter I should do. No matter the sanding, there will be an odd space between the counter and transom that isn’t yet apparent to me how it will be planked.

 

I put the ship aside today for a hike with friends on the Wissahickon Trail (Chestnut Hill area outside of Philly). It was a blustery but beautiful hiking day!

 

Cheers Peter!

-Andre

Edited March 11 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Finished roughing out the Stern Transom. I don’t have enough experience to know how much more to sand, so I’m done for now. Between the 1” block sander and the Proxxon sanding attachments- fine tuning of this area should be an effort of finessing to the planks. 

[SUBaron]

Mast Reinforcements

 

These were fun - a simple walkthrough of the practicum steps. I utilized my micro mitre box, micro chisels, and a sharp #11 Exacto. I used 1/8”x1/4” stock and measured to Detail 2-E of plan sheet 2. The mizzen and main masts are just a measure, cut and glue exercise. The fore mast requires a little effort to measure because the bulkhead rises into the mast slot. Note that your port and starboard support beams are unique so label them. Be sure to clean out any glue that squirts into the mast slot before it dries! I added a pic with glue and then cleaned out. That glue may be a bit of a PIA to get out when set. 
 

Upon reflection- I believe the model ship gods may be chuckling at me for calling this simple. They know what’s in store when it’s time to shape the masts to these slots. 

Edited March 14 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

It looks like I’ll need to remove the strengthening timbers affixed to the outer transom frames, and cut them in half. I didn’t realize these were to form a pocket for the inner transom planks. I don’t want to try cutting them in situ because the skinny frame riser could snap. This will be my first attempt to debond the glue with alcohol. 
 

A second , potentially much more serious issue - my waterway timber doesn’t lie flat from the stern transom to bulkhead E. I found that my transom requires more sanding/leveling, but even when measuring from the closest bulkhead to the transom (R I think) - to E, it won’t lie even close to flat. The odd thing is that a metal ruler along the same path does lie flat. I hadn’t been accounting for the metal ruler’s flexibility when level testing. I will show a picture later. I know that the Waterway must be curved to follow the bulkhead risers, but is there also a shaping required to form a slight concave curve to the waterway? 
 

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!!

[SUBaron]

I was completely unsuccessful in using rubbing alcohol to loosen the strengthening timber. Snapping off the riser was the likely outcome. I used a saw blade attachment, #11 blade, and micro chisel and surgically removed the excess to create a plank pocket. 

Edited March 16 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

This is my current dilemma. As you can see - the bulkheads are rather level when tested in small batches of 4-5 - from the aft section of the transom all the way to bulkhead E. But when I lay the Waterway timber down, there’s a large gap. It goes away when I press on the timber, however — I have not seen or read anything referring to this concave element of the waterway project. Am I missing something or is gluing or steaming this concave shape just considered too obvious to mention? 

Edited March 16 by SUBaron

[targa4403]

38 minutes ago, SUBaron said:

This is my current dilemma. As you can see - the bulkheads are rather level when tested in small batches of 4-5 - from the aft section of the transom all the way to bulkhead E. But when I lay the Waterway timber down, there’s a large gap. It goes away when I press on the timber, however — I have not seen or read anything referring to this concave element of the waterway project. Am I missing something or is gluing or steaming this concave shape just considered too obvious to mention? 

I believe it is by design.

[SUBaron]

2 hours ago, targa4403 said:

I believe it is by design.

Well that would be great news. After studying my work so far, I think you are right. I can’t see anywhere that I deviated so far from the plan that I’d have such a measuring error. It can’t be fixed at this point (at least I’m not willing to reverse my progress back to redoing the bulwarks), so I’ll continue and include a concave curve to my Waterway - along with the expected curve to accommodate the inner bulwark riser shape. The concave shaping is better IMHO than relying on glue to hold the Waterway. 
 

Thank You!

-Andre
 

[SUBaron]

So - bad news. After working with Bob Hunt - I’ve decided to start over. I will be calling Model Expo for replacement bulkheads, Keel and filler blocks. Apparently my first 2 aft bulkheads were not totally  flush when set and too far above the bearding line. Though others were off as well. I did some sketchy sanding when I started in my zeal to get started. Bob said the fix is to dunk the offending bulkheads (entire thing since it’s more than just the aft 2) in acetone to dissolve the glue. I’d rather start over. It’s a bit demoralizing but I  screwed up the bones of my ship. Cant have that. I appreciate all the help and advice. I’ll likely keep this log open and update it occasionally until I reach the Waterway again - then I will update more frequently. 
 

Carpe Diem!

[Der Alte Rentner]

I don't see that starting over is necessary.  You can glue on some tapered scrap material to clean up the bottoms of those two bulkheads - or do as a number of others have, use wood putty to smooth the transitions.  As for the deck side of the bulkhead, some careful work with a file, sandpaper, chisel, shims or combinations thereof should solve any issue with the deck when it gets that far.  

 

I went through the same thought process when I started out.  Looking at scratch builders logs got me to thinking I could solve the laser cut issues by making my own bulkheads.  I'm glad (at this point) that I stayed the course.  Just about all missteps can be corrected.  Just think of them as minor challenges.  As you pointed out in a comment to me at my build log,  once the planking and deck are in place, no one will be the wiser - or toss them out of the party!

 

Regarding the earlier dilemma, I agree with Targa, the deck is designed that way.  

 

Hang in there!

[SUBaron]

1 hour ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

I don't see that starting over is necessary.  You can glue on some tapered scrap material to clean up the bottoms of those two bulkheads - or do as a number of others have, use wood putty to smooth the transitions.  As for the deck side of the bulkhead, some careful work with a file, sandpaper, chisel, shims or combinations thereof should solve any issue with the deck when it gets that far.  

 

I went through the same thought process when I started out.  Looking at scratch builders logs got me to thinking I could solve the laser cut issues by making my own bulkheads.  I'm glad (at this point) that I stayed the course.  Just about all missteps can be corrected.  Just think of them as minor challenges.  As you pointed out in a comment to me at my build log,  once the planking and deck are in place, no one will be the wiser - or toss them out of the party!

 

Regarding the earlier dilemma, I agree with Targa, the deck is designed that way.  

 

Hang in there!

Well - I really appreciate your words of encouragement, @Der Alte Rentner. My worry though, is that it may be better to cut bait now and start over, then keep working and hit a project killer months from now as a result of my off-bearding line bulkheads. If you look at my 2nd picture above - there is a lot of play in what should be level. There’s really no amount of sanding and shims that will make up for a 1/4 inch concave curve. And if I do that by say, steaming a curve, what will the ramifications of a slightly curved deck be 4 months farther into the project - will I have to stop then? I’ll have to ponder this decision. Here’s what Bob said, in part;

The bulkheads absolutely must reach the bearding line or this is what will happen. And it will affect the height of the cannons on the upper deck when you plank your deck and have to put those cannons on the deck. Think “relationships” which I preach about in all of my practicums. Every part in the ship has a relationship to some other part or parts. If any of the parts are not in their proper place, it causes a domino affect later on and you’ll reach a point where you have a new problem that can’t be fixed.

 

[SUBaron]

Peter - after sleeping on it - a new day brings renewed enthusiasm. I think Bob was well intentioned with his advice. As someone with his talent - he probably couldn’t fathom a slight deck curvature - but this was never going to be a museum piece. I agree with your comments - and I don’t think the issues I face can’t be overcome (as you pointed out - the aft bulwarks can be patched to the bearding line). In fact - I actually really like the lines developing on my Constitution. I’ll chalk up the elegant lines to the impact of an Italian Admiral visiting the shipyard and having lunch with Joshua Humphrey during construction. The slightly raised aft cannons were part of a highly secret experiment in frigate cannonry. 
 

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 3/17/2024 at 9:23 AM, SUBaron said:

Peter - after sleeping on it - a new day brings renewed enthusiasm.

Now that's the spirit!

 

I'm glad you thought better of restarting.

 

 

 

And. In support of your artistic deliberations, I too hope to depart from the mainstream on this build.  The more effort I put into planking, the more determined I become to dispense with painting Conny.  

[SUBaron]

On 3/19/2024 at 12:12 PM, Der Alte Rentner said:

 I too hope to depart from the mainstream on this build.  The more effort I put into planking, the more determined I become to dispense with painting Conny.  

Your planking is fantastic so I understand not wanting to paint it after all that work. Are you also going to forego the copper plating? I’m wondering if the copper would get a little lost in the natural wood color - or it may just be beautiful!

 

I’ve loved this ship my entire life - so I’ll be painting and coppering. I’m actually considering using real copper plates if I can find them. 

Edited March 20 by SUBaron

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 3/20/2024 at 3:51 PM, SUBaron said:

Your planking is fantastic so I understand not wanting to paint it after all that work. Are you also going to forego the copper plating? I’m wondering if the copper would get a little lost in the natural wood color - or it may just be beautiful!

 

I’ve loved this ship my entire life - so I’ll be painting and coppering. I’m actually considering using real copper plates if I can find them. 

 

 

Good question, one that I've been asking myself from the beginning.  The photo below, from HIPEXEC's log here at the site, shows how it could look without copper.  (He built the Constructo kit, which was the kit I purchased 10 years ago and abandoned within a couple of days of starting my own build log. I liked the way it looks, but the instructions seemed sketchy to me.  e.g. they have you plank before adding the keel, which just seems wrong.) 

 

Now the Constructo kit came with material for a second planking - the look of which I really like.  I'd have to stain to approximate that, but then I think the copper would get lost.  So, maybe not..

 

I'll have to decide before I add the deck planking, which may only be a month from now. 

 

With the exception of one photo someone sent me (Jon?), I haven't found any pictures of Conny au natural.  I wonder why no one's doing it that way.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 24 by Der Alte Rentner
as usual, corrected typos

[SUBaron]

Waterway & Planksheer

 

The waterway is made up of numerous unique angles and shaping. It’s a difficult timber to get right. If you’re using hand tools - it may be a true test of your patience, perhaps more than skill. I won’t get into the detail, because I simply followed Hunt’s cook book. For plank bending - I cranked up my on demand water heater by 50 degrees and used the hot tap water to bend the planks (gently!) by hand*. It took a few attempts to heat - then clamp - but each time resulted in a better fit. I primed and painted the waterways using the Model-Expo USS Constitution paint kit - Bulwarks Green. I chose to fit, then glue the transom waterway first. Additional waterways and planksheer remain.

 

I included a picture of many of the tools necessary. I missed a few - including the painting.
 

*Every modeler will find their “special” talent. Mine is bending wood by hand. I utilize a modified soldering gun for extreme curves (typically bow and stern). For everything else - I simply use hot or very hot water (depending on the wood) and bend the wood with my fingers. Knock on wood - I’ve yet to snap one. Gotta say the waterways sure had my concentration.

 

Edited March 30 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Three Waterway sections completed - 2 to go. I went to Hobby Lobby with my daughter for a school project and found a piece of 3/16x3” basswood, so I decided to fashion the bow waterway in 2 sections vs the Hunt plan to use the supplied wood and use 4 pieces. The phone cam makes the bulwarks and keel look bent (they aren’t!). I’ll add the planksheer when the Waterway is completed. You can see where it was necessary to sand and shim areas for the decking. 
 

Question to the Conny builders about the mast reinforcements. I’ve been wondering if I should’ve cut the foremast reinforcement tab - the laser cut parts form a tab that rises (the mizzen and main mast sections were flush). I was wondering if this was meant to encourage the correct angle, or extra strength? How did y’all deal with it? I can still cut it out but not sure if I should.

Edited April 2 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

The port bow waterway was somewhat straightforward. I used the plans to create a template. Then cut the waterway on the Scrollsaw, finishing with blades and sanding. The outer bevel curve took some patience with the hand tools. I applied my usual methods - measure, refine bevel, heat, bend, clamp, repeat. I found that with the wood I’m using (hobby store basswood), bends easily, but it takes an overnight with clamps to finally set.  

I noticed that I had been too aggressive cutting my Knighthead “platform” (the bow waterway rest on it) - such that after affixing the waterway, no purchase would remain for the foremost deck planks. Better to address this now. I used my prior platform template to create the outside curve and whipped up 2 crude extenders on the scroll saw. I also needed to extend 2 of my bow “timbers”. I never had much faith in those - I’m sure I’ll have to do the same when I work on the starboard side waterway. 

 

Edited April 4 by SUBaron