HMS Sphinx 1775 by cdrusn89 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[cdrusn89]

I hope the order of installing the upper and lower gun port frames does not really matter. Given my desire to clamp each and every bulkhead riser to the frame I did both the lower ones first as the clamps would interfere with the upper frames.

Did I mention you can't have too many clamps.

 

I also fabricated the hatch coamings and gave them a coat of Polycrylic Clear flat. They are just sitting on deck at the moment. I intend to pay particular attention to the various opening in the deck adjacent to the coamings. Given what I know now, blocking these opening, even slightly will cause significant headaches in the future with little recourse since there will no way to get at them without a good bit of "collateral damage".

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Upper gunport frames in place and glue drying.

[cdrusn89]

Gun deck support beams in place and drying.

 

No mention is made in the instructions about removing the laser char and the pictures in the instruction book show the beam supports with the laser char in place but I took it off anyway. Seems it should improve adhesion of the gun deck when we get there (which is only a few pages ahead. Similarly for the longitudinal beams. Removing the char also removes the "cant" since the laser does not cut at precisely 90 degrees, but I probably put an inconsistent "cant" when removing the char so...

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side gun port frames installed.

It took some "finesse" to get them all the way into the horizontal stringers. I now also remember that they are pretty fragile and it is entirely possible to break off the top portion of the frame, especially where they are quite thin (GPs 4, 5 and 6).

 

I broke off two and fashioned replacements for the top portions out of Alaskan Yellow Cedar. My previous experience indicates that these will not "show" and I find it much easier to shape the AYC than the MDF of which the frames are made.

 

Here are the two replacement pieces. It remains to be seen if the white glue (full strength) will effectively bind these small pieces to the rail to withstand the shaping which is coming pretty soon.

Edited June 4 by cdrusn89

[chris watton]

It really is of no consequence if the upper or lower tabs are broken on the vertical gunport frames - their only job is to provide the gunport with its sides, anything else is superfluous to their job.

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Chris - I managed to get the starboard side done without breaking any.

[cdrusn89]

I got the bow and stern fillers fared to the hull and glued on.

 

Don't ask me how I know but it is possible to dislodge the decking by pushing the aft stern filler up too far. That accounts for the weights on the deck - need both fore and aft to keep the Amati holder from tipping over. Don't ask me how I know that either.

With a few minutes to kill while the glue dries I masked off the inner bulwarks in preparation for painting. I applied a coat of polycrylic clear flat to all the bulwarks, deck clamps and spirketting to get a good foundation for paint, or in the case of the aft areas that will not be painted as a first layer of protection against ham handed (or sloppy) model builders.

 

[cdrusn89]

Pre-painted forward bulwark, starboard side in place and glue drying.

 

Using a brush to apply the dilute PVA identified some places where the bulwark was not in contact with the framing and I applied another clamp to (hopefully) correct.

[cdrusn89]

Both forward bulwarks and the q-deck beam spacing patterns installed and glue drying.

 

I had two occasions in the beam spacing patterns where the slot in the bulkhead was partially blocked by the top of the gun port frame. Taking Chris's word that these have no function I removed the two offending items and got the beam spacers installed correctly (I hope).

 

When to glue is dry it is on to the aft bulwarks.

 

Edited June 5 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

The aft bulwarks were more of a struggle than the fore.

 

Probably because the sub-deck did not completely meet the keel/bulkheads at the aft end I had to reduce the height of the bulwarks to get them to fit under the beam spacing patterns. I will need to be careful when adding the q-deck beams to make sure they all seat correctly.

 

With the aft bulwarks in place I tried to fit the gun deck planking sheet.

 

As I remember from Sphinx #1 I had to take a considerable amount off the edges of the planking sheet to get it to fit. I almost got to the scupper holes (I assume that is what they are) in reducing the width. Similarly with the checkered planking.

 

At the end of the day I managed to split the planking sheet toward the aft end and was not successful in getting the gap completely closed before the glue set up. For those who follow maybe dampening the planking sheet before bending it to get it to fit inside the bulwarks would reduce the potential for cracking or adding a did piece of masking tape on one side. Not sure that either would work but the more times you have to fit the planking into the hull the more chance of the planking sheet cracking along one of the laser lines.

 

So I have a visible crack in the decking although it is aft where it will not be all that noticeable. I also managed to break off the thin piece of decking between the hatch and companionway forward of the main mast. I will save the piece and install when the hatches are in place. Maybe add a small ledge on the forward/aft end of each coaming to support the planking piece.

 

On to the spirketting and deck clamps.

Edited June 6 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I decided a bit ago to use the serving machine I have to serve the shrouds and stays and have been working my way through them in between working on the hull.

 

The main and fore lower shrouds are served (as best I understand things) at the center of each pair where they are around the top of the masts. I worked this out to be about 2" or 1" each side of the shroud center. Except for the forward most shroud which is served its entire length as this shroud is subject to chaffing by the main or fore course sails. At the mizzen the foremost shroud is not served its entire length as there is no equivalent sail flown from the mizzen.

 

On the mainmast there are 8 shrouds so four pairs one of which on each side is served over half its length plus 1". On the fore mast there are 7 shrouds so three pairs plus a single which is generally the forward most one so this is served over its entire length. Exactly how this single shroud is attached at the mast top is a topic which needs further investigation on my part.

 

After I served the middle 2" I hang the shroud on my "shroud hanger" to get the twist out of the line and to straighten out any "kinks" that may have worked there way into the line while it was being served. This is especially the case where the line is served over more than a few inches as the served line has to be moved to allow more line to be available for serving and this means bending the served line around the line holder which is definitely a source of "kinks".

 

So here in my "shroud hanger" with the current complement of shrouds. I still have make the pairs for the main mast with half the line served but with those I will have all the lower shrouds "done" this far. I still have to make the Burton pendants and of course the top mast and top gallant shrouds but these are not served, at least on my model.

[cdrusn89]

Interior "furnishings completed, hull has been "well and truly" fared. Blue tape is to keep debris from falling "below decks" once the bulwarks are in place - which is next.

 

I managed to break off each and every bulkhead extension while manipulating the hull for faring. I only broke one on the first go round so I am clearly getting more "ham-handed" as I age, even over just a few months.

 

I added my own supports to replace the "stiffeners" that would have connected the bulkhead extensions if they were still there. Hopefully they will do a good enough job but since there is no full size drawing of the bulkheads I am, not willing to try and recreate the extensions from just the MFD carrier sheet - I tried one and it did not go well so...

 

Now for where I went wrong the first go round - Have to ensure the exterior bulwarks are installed correctly, or if I can't have and least consistently incorrectly.

 

[cdrusn89]

This time I actually looked at the drawing (Sheet 8 ) which shows exactly where the aft end of the outer bulwark should "land".

 

I am going to glue the bulwark down in stages using full strength PVA so I can get it where the drawing says it should go and aligned with the gun ports.

 

Then on to the planking.

[cdrusn89]

Port side exterior bulwark in place and the glue drying.

 

I put a pin at every bulkhead to make sure there is consistent contact and (hopefully) no "waviness" at the bottom of the bulwark - another lesson from the previous "go-round".

[cdrusn89]

Ready to start the first layer of planking.

 

I created my own set of jigs for the q-deck area since I managed to break off all the bulkhead extensions that would have supported the kit provided jig(s). hopefully they will do the job.

 

Edited June 11 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

First three rows (the easy ones) done on each side.

 

Planks matched up quite well with the upper bulwark except for one area at the bow on the port side - you can see the shadow where the bulwark is sticking out past the first row of planks.

 

I have to find where I put my edgewise plank bender and steal the iron once I get a few more planks done.

 

In the meantime I am changing all the blades in the Xacto knives and looking for my plank cutting jig.

[cdrusn89]

With three rows of planking at the "top" I decided to add the garboard strake and maybe one more at the "bottom" before proceeding with the rest of the hull. I added the garboard strake full width throughout

I used pins on the midships and forward end (except at the very front where I used medium CA and a clamp to secure that end) and beveled the edge that meets the "keel" to get a tight fit which (hopefully) is the objective - to form a "V" shaped notch when the "real" keel is added.

 

I then painted on the PVA/H2O mixture and let it set for several hours before proceeding.

 

I am going to add another full width plank above the garboard strake before "getting on with the job at hand".

 

[cdrusn89]

With three planks at the "top" and two at the bottom on each side I got out my "planking fan" and tick strips and laid out the starboard side. I measured 93mm at the widest point, measured a random selection of the provided planking and came up with an average width of 5.2mm which yields 18 planks to cover the rest of the hull.

 

I decided on a four step plank length scheme and marked the bulkheads so I would actually have a chance of following the plan.

 

"X" marks the spot like on a treasure map.

I plan to alternate one plank on the bottom and then one on the top on each side.

 

Here is the starboard side after two additional planks on the bottom and one on the top.

 

On to the port side with tick strips and planking fan in hand.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Port side lined off and five of the 18 additional planks in place.

 

Back to the starboard side now. Doing four rows (two top, two bottom) on each side.

 

Breaking off the bulkhead extensions does have the side benefit of making moving the hull around while planking easier.

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side with five of 18 rows completed.

 

I need to bend some more planks for the stern so I will attend to that and call it a day.

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side half finished - 9 of 18 rows completed.

 

On to the port side now. Although my memory of doing this on the first hull is somewhat hazy after looking at the pictures of that effort this seems to be progressing well.

 

Edited June 14 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Port side half finished

 

Now the"real fun" as we close in on the "finish".

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side 2/3rds complete 12 rows completed, 6 to go.

 

Port side is in the same state so i will spare you the picture.

 

Clips are used to keep planking "lined-up" as they have a tendency to want to bend in (or out) as the moisture in the PVA evaporates. Not sure what I am going to do in another row or two when these clips won't fit anymore.

 

There is always filler 😀

[cdrusn89]

After a good deal of trepidation I decided to fully rig the Sphinx cannon. The "pre-made" cannon I have already have the breeching line in place ready to the adjusted to the correct length once the eyebolts are in place.

 

It is the tackle used to pull the gun back into firing position after it is swabbed and loaded that I am going to add. I believe that the "train tackle" was not generally rigged unless it was needed - at 50 yards you just wait until you can see the other ship (amid all the powder smoke) and fire.

 

I decided to use 3mm blocks for this although that is probably a bit oversize I find it very difficult (for me) to work anything smaller. The blocks are Model Expo "Beautiful Blocks" (MSBB1030 in case anyone wants some) stropped with 26ga "black wire" which is really copper painted black by the supplier (Artistic Wire). I built a little jig using steel pins to hold the block in place and used the groove in the block to "seat" the wire and used a drop of medium CA to glue the wire to the block and to itself where the two pieces cross. I also drilled out the holes in the blocks (#74 drill bit) to make sure I would not have an issue trying to thread the line though later.

 

So, 20 cannon (actually 24 counting four on the quarterdeck) although to what extent they are rigged is TBD at the moment. So that means 44 sets of tackle with two blocks in each set or 88 3mm blocks, half with a becket for the standing end.

 

Here is a good start but I am continuing production since any extra will probably come in handy on the next model on the shelf (Indefatigable).

Part of the rationale for the wire stropping was so I could get a hook on each block - mine are over scale but the ones provided on the PE sheet are about the same size and getting them attached to the block is ... It is my understanding that the tackle was detached from the gun after it was in position and before it was fired so there would be hooks on at least the gun end of the tackle.

 

So if I have 40+ tackle I need 40+ "rope coils" to terminate the tackle on deck (although I seriously doubt they left any lines on the deck when not it use as the decks were generally wet and wet line rots more quickly than dry).

 

I am going to use Syren .008" Ultra tan line for the gun tackle. On my Niagara I made up coils of rope using double sided tape to make the coils. That experience made me decide on something faster. I built the jig below to make rope coils to hang on belaying pins on previous models. The brass rod down the middle provides a channel to thread the line under when you end the coil. I used five turns around the brass pins then a double overhand knot to finish off. Two coats of 60/40 PVA/H2O soaking up the excess after 30 seconds or so. Here are nine coils ready for removal.

I am considering making a new jig with the "stations" further apart as I seem to have difficulty  wrapping the line around just two of the brass pins, even with only the occupied pins in place.

 

Here are enough coils to do the guns. Now I need more to hang on the shroud cleats and belay points elsewhere. I am going to reduce the number of turns around the pins to three and use both the Syren line and the 0.1mm line provided in the kit as I will need coils of both. The provided shroud cleats are pretty "narrow" (opening between base and horns) and three turns may be one too many - I will experiment "later".

Edited June 16 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Port side with two rows to go.

 

I checked and the last row will have to be tapered its entire length b ut that does not come as a complete surprise since the math worked out to 17.7 rows and I rounded to 18.

 

Hope to get at least this side finished today - only four more rows on the starboard side so the end (of the first layer of planking) is "in sight"

[cdrusn89]

One row left on the port side.

 

As you might imagine it is anything but a constant width from end to end.

 

In fact I had to add a "stealer" at the stern and it is a somewhat abbreviated one as I had no desire to try and fashion a plank that was 12mm at one end and 2.5mm at the other. So I just did the first 17mm of it and glued it in.

Given the somewhat sinuous character of the remaining plank space I am going to break it up into four segments. The first segment forward of the stealer is in the clamp. Working the rest of them - slow going as most are not monotonically narrowing or widening so it is sand and check fit, sand and check fit, rinse and repeat.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Port side fully planked (first layer).

 

Breaking the last row up into four segments makes things go much faster than trying to get a single (or even two) segments to fit. I had to resort to a left over 7mm wide plank for the last segment at the bow. I could probably have forced a 5mm wide plank to fit but since I had the 7mm I used it - sort of like spieling. 

 

I also painted the entire side in 60/40 PVA/H2O to help insure the planks are glued together edge-wise as well as to the bulkheads. The bulkheads are far enough apart in places where if two planks can move relative to each other it will be difficult (if not impossible) to get filler (should it be necessary) to not crack every time I go over it with a sanding pad or stick.

 

On to the starboard side where I have three rows left to plank.

[Ronald-V]

Another milestone reached!

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Mugje; yes and now the starboard side is completely planked and I can "raise some sawdust" - but not too much. Don't ask me how I know but you CAN sand all the way through 1mm planking.

 

Here is the starboard side "resting" after being painted with 60/40 PVA/H2O.

[cdrusn89]

I have done two rounds of fill and sand using thinned "Goodfilla" filler and first 120 grit paper and then 220 and there are just a few areas that need a bit more attention and I will stick a fork in this and call it done.

 

Given the amount of filler visible I guess I did not do as good a planking job as I thought (hoped?). However, I would rather look at the filler than sand through the planking trying to get it smooth.

 

On the previous build of Sphinx I used automotive spray primer with filler after I thought I had the Goodfilla smooth. I decided to leave the automotive primer for the second layer (where it doesn't show) as i think this is smooth enough to host the second layer and I do not want the primer messing up glue adhesion and it is generally a messy process that I really only want to go through once.