Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

 Slogging along with this Billings Nordkap 476. There are areas where CA is needed, like the window frames.

They also receive either styrene  or acetate inserts. I have canopy glue for that. Basically, very expensive Elmers

Anyone know just how long CA gives off the vapors that cause the dreaded fog.

Also, will a heavy coat of paint and or poly seal CA area.

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

 I use a whole lot of CA and other than the initial waft I haven't noticed any long term vapors. A normal application of craft acrylics easily covers CA. If you're using CA on wood that will be poly sealed or stained and not painted, CA will discolor the wood where CA was applied. To minimize this I use a homemade needle applicator and wick away any CA excess with a Q-Tip as quickly as possible. If you dawdle you increase the chances of having cotton fibers from the Q-Tip stick to the wood. It's always best to test technique on scrap pieces till perfected. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Thanks guys. As always, picked up ideas

 No exposed wood except deck. I have painted the inside with cheap black craft paint.

Well covered. I think maybe a light coat of poly over that. That’s probably overkill.

Nothing inside to see anyway and the windows will be tinted

gray. I’m getting so close. Another 6 - 7 years, I hope lol, it’ll be worthy of a pic. Hopefully.

Always a pleasure

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

Posted

I've experienced that excessive CA glue "pond" lasted for a month. It is good to use a limited amount, and the CA applicator helps to control it. I remove CA glue with Q-tips.

 

Also, thin and fast running CA glue tends to produce more vapor and an eye-hurting smell. It is one of reasons I prefer middle thick CA glue for woodworking.

 

In addition, CA primer or accelerator harden CA glue in a second.

Posted

Something I learned as a teenager from my father, who was a chemist working with acrylics in the pharmaceutical industry, is that CA needs humity to trigger polymerisation - therefore one should  gently breathe on the are to cemented together and onto the CA applied.

 

Indeed, a big blob of CA will quickly polymerise on the outside, but that forms a shell into which humidity cannot penetrate to support polymerisation. Hence, it may take a while for such a blob to fully cure.

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

 The way CA wicks into cracks it doesn't take much, there's no need to pond. A few applications with a needle applicator is sufficient. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted
13 hours ago, modeller_masa said:

I've experienced that excessive CA glue "pond" lasted for a month. It is good to use a limited amount, and the CA applicator helps to control it. I remove CA glue with Q-tips.

 

Also, thin and fast running CA glue tends to produce more vapor and an eye-hurting smell. It is one of reasons I prefer middle thick CA glue for woodworking.

 

In addition, CA primer or accelerator harden CA glue in a second.

The accelerators can also mar clear parts.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 2/23/2024 at 2:48 PM, ricky86 said:

Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I am aware, CA does have its drawbacks.

The convenience and speed vs clouding, stink and the ever present gluing of the fingers.

 

Thanks Guys.

 

One method I do for avoiding messes and the occasional finger (or arm - ha!) gluing while using CA cement is to use some 1/4"  poster board cut into 2 by 2 inch squares with some double sided tape on the bottom. Just stick the little board down out of the way on your work bench and then place the desired amount of CA cement on the board as a palette. Once all the space on the board has been used up just toss it and repeat the process. Also, a fly tying bodkin as a CA applicator works great! Just swirl the tip of the bodkn into the drop of glue to pickup the desired amount. Burn off any globs of glue that start to accumulate with a cigarette lighter. The poster board method keeps things clean and organized.

Edited by Mike Shea

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...