Lynx by Basic – Panart

[Basic]

Afternoon Ladies and Gents,

 

After a long shore leave, I've been putting in a little more work on the Lynx.  It can be difficult to find time to work on it for long periods, with university and all, but nevertheless, I have made a bit of progress! As you can see in the attached pictures, I've managed to complete the first layer of planking on one side of the hull, as well as made some progress on the other.  I've taken the advice you guys have offered me and used the drywall filler to level off the imperfections that I was talking about in a previous post.  As you can see, I have applied the filler and sanded it in layers, and I still have some more filling/sanding to complete before the contours of the hull are perfectly smooth.  I'm aiming to get them as smooth as possible, in order to provide the best possible bonding surface for the outer planking.  

 

On a somewhat related topic, I've been reading up on planking tutorials and it seems that my method for planking is not ideal for the outer layer of planking.  To date, I have been soaking the planks and bending them to the contour of the hull and using the brass pins to hold them in place while drying to the desired shape.  Based on the planking tutorials I've been watching/reading, it seems like the best way to do the outer planking is to use string as a guide and sketch out the planks onto the inner hull, as a sort of diagram to follow while planking.  Then, using the correct ratio to ensure that the plank sections are to-scale, to use the electric plank bender to perfectly contour the outer hull planks and just fit them in place, gluing with carpenter's glue.  I'm just worried that the orientation of the planks will not look "real" once the final planking is complete.  I don't know where the tapered planks should go, if I should start from the top and work my way down, or alternate between the top and bottom as I go.  I'm just worried that I'll end up having the tapered planks in the wrong location and the final product won't "look right".  Any ideas/tips?

 

To answer your question, my Panart Lynx kit did not come with any dye powder, however it did come with two different types of wood for the two hull plankings; lime tree for the under layer and walnut for the outer layer. 

 

EDIT: If you look at the second attached picture of the unfinished side of the hull, near the bow, you can see another example of the planks not adjoining properly due to the excess sanding that I was talking about in my previous post.  The amount of filling for this side will be roughly the same as for the other side of the ship, and I think that the drywall filler did a pretty decent job of correcting for those imperfections.  

Edited March 28, 2014 by Basic

[Scallywag]

Thanks for the update!  Keep up the good work.

[fnkershner]

Basic - If you read some of my posts elsewhere on this forum you will see that Planking and I are not very good friends. But I will still do my best to try to offer some suggestions and answers to your questions.

 

I am sure you have read this before but let me start from the beginning. you have done a great job on the first layer now you are ready for the 2nd layer.

 

Step 1. Measure the distance from keel to wale at each bulkhead or approx. at each bulkhead. Divide that distance by 5 or 4 and mark that off on the hull. the result should be tick marks at each bulkhead that evenly divide that bulkhead. at the widest point those tick marks should be between 4 and 6 hill planks wide.

 

Step 2. Now draw a line connecting each tick mark. The result will be belts running the full length of the hull. there are many approaches to get to this point. The goal is to define belts that divide the area to be planked into even amounts. One advantage is that any errors will not accumulate from 1 belt to the other.

 

Step 3. Taper your planks to fit into these belts. You will find that in some cases the bow is so narrow you will need a drop plank. and conversely in the stern you will need a stealer.

 

Also, when gluing these planks you should not use pins or nails since this is your final layer of planking and these holes will show.

Edited March 28, 2014 by Floyd Kershner

[Basic]

Thanks for the advice Floyd!

 

I think that this will be a much better method, I will definitely give it a shot! I`m just worried that any existing deformations in the hull will result in a finished product that is distorted.. But I guess at this point it is a "do the best you can, with what you have" situation. 

 

As for the pins, I will not use them on the outer planking layer, for those exact reasons.  I find them pretty useful for the inner hull planking though!

[fnkershner]

Have you seen the binder clip clamps? Search the site. I created a topic on this. you can use binder clips to create clamps for almost nothing. I find they work even better than pins.

 

Also have you heard about CA "spot welding"? this is what I use for 2nd planking. I prefer to use PVA (wood glue) for most of my work. it is much more forgiving when you have issues. But CA does have its uses. For "Spot welding" I use a very small drop of CA to hold the plank in place while the PVA sets. So for example I will put a drop on each end and at points where there is a significant curve. you can hold it for 15 seconds and the CA will set.

 

If you have humps or hollows on your first layer use the paste. It is wonderful. You can really get a nice surface with the right shape. Just remember that the 2nd layer is pretty thin so you want the 2nd layer to be just right. Take time with the first layer and you should be ok.

 

Also remember this is coming from the guy who has spent 6 months working on the 2nd layer of his current project and in frustration has switched projects for now. I am 6 planks for finishing the 2nd layer on my Harvey.

 

One more thing - I suggest you do first 1 belt from the keel then 1 belt from the deck. after that it is up to you.

Edited March 29, 2014 by Floyd Kershner

[Stevinne]

Enjoying reading your log. I have a Lynx waiting to be built, so I'm eagerly following your progress.

[Basic]

Hi guys,

 

I've been MIA for awhile now, work keeps piling up and has to be dealt with, so I have little time for making progress!  To date, the first layer of planking has been completed and the filling/sanding work is almost done.  I'm currently trying to reason out the correct (accurate) plank lengths for the outer planking layer.  The kit is 1/62 scale, however I have been unable to find the actual plans for the Lynx to figure out her plank lengths.  Does anyone have any ideas where I might be able to find this info?

 

Thanks!

[augie]

No hard reference but from what I've read 25-30 feet seems to be the number

[juhu]

Hi,

the plans for the links are preserved in NMM in Greenwich, London. These are the plans as taken of and depicts the HM schooner Mosquidobit (under this name was Lynx taken ino RN service). Beware! As in many cases, these plans shows the ship with alternations made by RN. This is common in many cases and often overlooked: Plans of captured vessels may show them AFTER refit, not how they actually looked originally. For example, it is stated that the original Lynx dod not have a capstan on the deck. But there are many more thinks missing in anyway...

As far as planking size is considered, this is not the part of any plan, I would suggest you to use general size of planks appropriate of this model scale. I would say (am using metric system) some 5mm width and 100mm in length would make some 310 mm x 620mm on the real ship. That could be quite reasonable? I would take the real plank length around 20-24' .   But I think, if you use slightly modified size, (reasonable, not like 200mm long plank ), nobody can blame you for innacuracy.

I have seen the original plans of Mosquidobit mentioned above. The listed Length on the deck is given as 94' 7" There are also other data, but this one may be very easy to check on you model. Could you do that? You will see how it is with the scale. 1:62 is quite odd, I read somewhere it is more like 1:60, you will see.

Something for inspiration: veri nic model of Lynx

http://amhistory.si.edu/onthewater/assets/object/full/2007-13914.jpg

 

and the one built from the kit. I must say I do not like the chosen color finish, but added details make the model more realistic. What catches my eye immediatelly is the transom shape, different from the plans and also the rudder angle and the aft hull section. I mentioned that earlier:

http://shipsofscale.com/gallery/mmacdonald/lynx/lynx04.jpg

 

[CharlieZardoz]

The Lynx aka Mosquidobit is on page 84-85 in the Howard Chapelle book "The Baltimore Clipper. Even has number of deck planks.  Btw just curious what is the size of the model hull without masts?

 

Charlie

[juhu]

The Lynx aka Mosquidobit is on page 84-85 in the Howard Chapelle book "The Baltimore Clipper. Even has number of deck planks.  Btw just curious what is the size of the model hull without masts?

 

Charlie

 

Do not take into account the planks number on Chapelle's plan - this is just a possible reconstruction I think. The only preserved faithful source is the historical plan preserved in Greenwich museum - and these admiralty plan does not show any planking (spent some time over these plans )

 

The model hull, although being presented as 1/62 scale, it does not match. The hull length is somewhat less than 50cm (I am too lazy now to open the box, but was measuring this many times to determine the scale of the kit which definitely is not given 1/62, but this is another story)

[CharlieZardoz]

You mean you don't trust Mr Chapelle's estimate?? yes I've seen the admiralty plan so I know what you mean. Regarding the hull size the Rattlesnake hull is supposed to be 89' historical length and the model is 18-19.5" depending on if you count the front piece. The Syren at 94' is about 19.5-21" est. so assuming the Lynx model is true to the 95' historical length 50cm or 19.5" falls in around what it should be at 1:62-1:64 scale.

Edited December 14, 2014 by CharlieZardoz

[juhu]

You mean you don't trust Mr Chapelle's estimate?? yes I've seen the admiralty plan so I know what you mean. Regarding the hull size the Rattlesnake hull is supposed to be 89' historical length and the model is 18-19.5" depending on if you count the front piece. The Syren at 94' is about 19.5-21" est. so assuming the Lynx model is true to the 95' historical length 50cm or 19.5" falls in around what it should be at 1:62-1:64 scale.

That has nothing to do with a trust. Just a fact. Remember that Chapelle's work is quite old, in some of his books you can find some innacuracies simply because byt he time there were written current knowledge and research was not known. I am not sayin this is that case, just stating, planking is not what has been preserved on the real plans. Yes, I do have this Chgapelle's book, and if you have more of them, you will find another and more detailed plan of "Lynx" made by Mr. Chapelle, this time without planking. Just one question: do you think plank joggling as shown on the drawing from "The Baltimore clipper - its origin and development" is on par with the period practise? I do not think so.

 

Concerning the kit: I bought it, am going to modify it slightly. The length is not the only concern, there is also beam and other dimmensions, positions of the deck openings and many others... According to my measurement, the ratio length/beam does not really match the plans and if you will try to find a true scale, it would be somewhere around  1:58- 1:60  .... Check the plans of the kit, you will see.

Edited December 14, 2014 by juhu

[CharlieZardoz]

Interesting and very true! If you post your work on this site I'll be very interested to see your progress as I've been thinking about building the Lynx myself at one point.  It seems to be (other than the Pride of Baltimore II) the only Baltimore Clipper style kit that's close to the 1/64 scale which is my scale preference for smaller ships. 

 

Charlie

Edited December 14, 2014 by CharlieZardoz

[juhu]

Interesting and very true! If you post your work on this site I'll be very interested to see your progress as I've been thinking about building the Lynx myself at one point.  It seems to be (other than the Pride of Baltimore II) the only Baltimore Clipper style kit that's close to the 1/64 scale which is my scale preference for smaller ships. 

 

Charlie

Unfortunately yes, Baltimore built schooners, being probably the most beautiful sail ships ever, are somehow overlooked by kit makers. We have dozens of Victories, Bountys etc, but just a few of these.... But sure you will find something more: Albatros by Constructo for example, but these are totally ficticious.... PoB by Model Shipways is superb, if being from US, I would be considering her - although nowadays vessel, the kit is of very high quality. Lynx is very appealing but as said, it lacks more in terms of accuracy.... and some of the things like the wrong hull shape, length/beam ratio etc are quite challenging (if possible at all ) to be fixed.

Will create some build log, but probably only after New Year....

[CharlieZardoz]

The Dapper Tom was a great MS kit as well, would be nice if they brought it back, maybe in a larger 1/64 scale.  Yeah both Albatros and Harvey seem ficticious even more so by their insistence that the kit represents clippers from the 1830-40's?? Plus the scale of the Albatros makes no sense 1/40 at 27" total? Of all of them Lynx seems the closest to the Mosquidobit plans though the kit would need some modification for sure. It seems that the older kit companies from the days of yore were less concerned about accuracy and more about giving someone a nice shelf piece, though tbf look how the internet has made researching so much more efficient.  Also what do you mean by length/beam ratio?

[Salty Sea Dog]

Interesting and very true! If you post your work on this site I'll be very interested to see your progress as I've been thinking about building the Lynx myself at one point.  It seems to be (other than the Pride of Baltimore II) the only Baltimore Clipper style kit that's close to the 1/64 scale which is my scale preference for smaller ships. 

 

Charlie

Dikar has the Roger B. Taney in 1:54.

[CharlieZardoz]

Amati also has Roger Taney in 1/60 though I think that's a resin kit closer to the scale I like and not sure if that is a Clipper or Cutter?  Will probably give it a go at one point but I didn't know about that Dikar kit so thanks for the info!  I do wonder what lovely kits are out there from defunct companies that have been buried and forgotten

Edited December 18, 2014 by CharlieZardoz

[juhu]

Amati also has Roger Taney in 1/60 though I think that's a resin kit closer to the scale I like and not sure if that is a Clipper or Cutter?  Will probably give it a go at one point but I didn't know about that Dikar kit so thanks for the info!  I do wonder what lovely kits are out there from defunct companies that have been buried and forgotten

If interested in these revenue vessels of "Baltimore look" check also BlueJacket "Jefferson Davis" kit - I would suppose this is an excellent kit, although may be a bit pricy and more challenging? Yet, much more accurate than European counterparts... In general, for these vessels Us based companies are much more reliable producing better kits - my opinion. If had a choice and funds, would probably go this way...

 

http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/jeffersondavis.htm

Edited December 19, 2014 by juhu

[juhu]

The Dapper Tom was a great MS kit as well, would be nice if they brought it back, maybe in a larger 1/64 scale.  Yeah both Albatros and Harvey seem ficticious even more so by their insistence that the kit represents clippers from the 1830-40's?? Plus the scale of the Albatros makes no sense 1/40 at 27" total? Of all of them Lynx seems the closest to the Mosquidobit plans though the kit would need some modification for sure. It seems that the older kit companies from the days of yore were less concerned about accuracy and more about giving someone a nice shelf piece, though tbf look how the internet has made researching so much more efficient.  Also what do you mean by length/beam ratio?

Albatros and Harvey are totally ficticious. No reason to think about those dates etc. Still they are nice looking models when finished. When historically accurate schooner is desired, as said earlier, check Model Shipways / BlueJacket...

Ratio: if you measure the Panart plans and compare it to the dimensions of real ship, you will find that while the length of the kit may be in let's say 1/61 scale, the beam is in 1/58. Just an example. That means not only the scale but the kit proportions are not OK. The most problematic part of the kit is the aft hull, that overhang above the rudder - totally out compared to the real plans in shape. That would mean you need to modify aft sections. That would require to check whether bulkheads shape is on par with plans etc. etc... and suddenly we are talking about full scratch build instead of the kit :)  . Of course, this is just a talk, the kit can be build as it is, just when discussing the accuracy, should be mentioned.

[CharlieZardoz]

Interesting, looks a bit like what the Harvey was based on (I say that because of the outhouse looking things in the front). Proper POF is something I'm not quite ready for yet however something I may get to when I feel I'm ready for it. Beautiful model!

 

So what you are saying is that the model is wider than it should be? And the aft is the wrong shape.  I suppose when the time comes I'll have to kitbash a bit something I imagine ill be doing quite a bit down the line as some of the kits out there seem more "suggestive" of the real thing lol.  Model Shipways makes great kits I also like those jotika kits.  It's also a matter of the model maker guys like Chris Watton who look like they do their homework

Edited January 2, 2015 by CharlieZardoz

[juhu]

Interesting, looks a bit like what the Harvey was based on (I say that because of the outhouse looking things in the front). Proper POF is something I'm not quite ready for yet however something I may get to when I feel I'm ready for it. Beautiful model!

 

So what you are saying is that the model is wider than it should be? And the aft is the wrong shape.  I suppose when the time comes I'll have to kitbash a bit something I imagine ill be doing quite a bit down the line as some of the kits out there seem more "suggestive" of the real thing lol.  Model Shipways makes great kits I also like those jokita kits.  It's also a matter of the model maker guys like Chris Watton who look like they do their homework

Well, as you are saying, if seeking a historical aacuracy, there are ways to go and ways better to be avoided... Yes, I have got somewhere the paper with my measurements, with Lynx kit there is a problem with the hull proportions and shape particularly aft - it was more difficult than I expected all those comparisons and measuring. Everything is correctable, one just needs to know it is worth for him

[Salty Sea Dog]

I have a bit more info about the Dikar Roger B. Taney, but since Basic's build log is sort of getting off-topic, I added it to Charlie's kit discussion thread:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8403-albatros-baltimore-clipper-scale-question/

 

 

Basic - I thought you might get a kick out of how your kit's description appeared in an old 1986 Model Expo catalog. Click photo for easier reading.

 

[juhu]

I have a bit more info about the Dikar Roger B. Taney, but since Basic's build log is sort of getting off-topic, I added it to Charlie's kit discussion thread:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8403-albatros-baltimore-clipper-scale-question/

 

 

Basic - I thought you might get a kick out of how your kit's description appeared in an old 1986 Model Expo catalog. Click photo for easier reading.

 

IMG_1214.JPG

Fun to read :)   ... nevertheless, did not know the kit is dated back to 80ties....

[CharlieZardoz]

The kit it probably even older than that.  Constructo's Enterprise was designed somewhere in the 40-50's.  A lot of these old kit's have been around forever

[Basic]

Thanks for all the info!  I've been working on her a little bit today, started sectioning out the hull for the second planking.  I think I'm going to go with a 20ft plank length, which is just over 6m on the real ship.  It seems somewhat reasonable.  That would make the individual planks on the model to be 98mm (scale 1:62), which I think it reasonable.  Any thoughts before I take the plunge?