HMS Greyhound by tennfox - Corel - 1:100 - building as USS Protector

[Old Collingwood]

I faired the  frames  first  then  starting  from  the  poop  deck  I  started fittting the  first  planking  keeping them  level with the  tops  of the  frames,  I continued  from the  stern to the bow, working both sides  then i worked my way down till my  planks  where just below the level of the main deck,    then I cut  the  frames  from the inside  at the  same height  as the  deck  before  planking it.

 

OC.

[tennfox]

Im starting see what you mean... It looks like your bottom picture.. The walnut strip (1st one) is recessed into the BH and laying on top of the deck so the walnut is flush with the deck and BH.  Did you have to soak that strip  to get the bend for the bow so you could mark it or was clamping it sufficient??

by cutting into the bh, doesnt that mess up the transition from the double planking of the hull since those planks are not recessed?

 

As always you are tremendous help...Thank you

[hamilton]

I always start hull planking at deck level - the top edge of the first plank you lay should be flush with the upper surface of the deck planking. Then I usually plank the bulwarks, and then line off and plank the lower hull. 

hamilton

[Old Collingwood]

8 hours ago, tennfox said:

Im starting see what you mean... It looks like your bottom picture.. The walnut strip (1st one) is recessed into the BH and laying on top of the deck so the walnut is flush with the deck and BH.  Did you have to soak that strip  to get the bend for the bow so you could mark it or was clamping it sufficient??

by cutting into the bh, doesnt that mess up the transition from the double planking of the hull since those planks are not recessed?

 

As always you are tremendous help...Thank you

Do  you  mean  my  rows  of  first hull planking?

I  sat the hull planking on top  of the  frames  but  to help  secure the  planks  at the  bow  I did cut a  slight  groove into the head,  but as long as  you  achieve a  good   curvature  by soaking  the planks in hot water  (or  even  using a  plank  bending tool)   then you  might  not need  to  put a  grove in the  head.

 

OC. 

[Old Collingwood]

40 minutes ago, hamilton said:

I always start hull planking at deck level - the top edge of the first plank you lay should be flush with the upper surface of the deck planking. Then I usually plank the bulwarks, and then line off and plank the lower hull. 

hamilton

Agreed  mate   -  think  I started  from the  deck level  as well,  was  trying  to  express  the need  to  plank the  hull  from the  deck level  up to  the  top of the  frames  before  planking the  deck.

 

OC.

[tennfox]

Heres a better explaination of what im looking at

This is OC model and the right one is Srenners.

 

It looks like Srenner cut into the BH and set the first walnut strip into the BH on top of the deck. The top walnut looks the same.  I see that OC did not cut in and planked over the top.

Im trying to figure out which way worked better down the line. if all the planking's will smooth out at the end or did they need a little tweeking?  I know OC didnt make the greyhound standard, but the planking is the same.  

 

Im trying to avoid any pitfalls you all encountered.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

The   general way  to  do  it  is  to  glue the  hull  planking onto the  face of the  frames  after they  have been faired  to take off  the  hard edges  especially  towards the  bow and stern, if you dont do this  the planks will  not follow a  smooth line  where they  need  to  bend up and around to  the  bow  and  stern.

 

OC.

[Srenner]

I was going with the top rail width. If the rail is 5mm then the hull needs to be around 3-3.5mm width finished if you want a overhang on the rail of say 1mm each side. So that's 3 thicknesses of 1mm strip to make up the hull to the rail. FYI the timber provided is not 1 mm thick exactly it's about 1.3mm measured using a vernier scale. I think mine came out close to 4mm thick giving a rail overhang of 0.5mm each side

[tennfox]

I test fitted the 1 x 3 strip and noticed bh 2 3 4 5 6 were recessed already while the rest were even with the deck.   Im thinking I've either got to shim those or trim the deck back to be even . Working thru it in my head ... If I shim,  I'll have to shim a large portion of each bh. That will definitely screw up the lines and flow of the hull.   I'm still trying to see if trimming will do worse...glad I'm not in a hurry

[Srenner]

You need to study that cut away section diagram on the plans and think from the outside in to work out what will look good with the rails on the outside, the planking wood and then coming back to the 1mm strip. Once you decide that then follow the suggestion from the deck shape for the runs of those timbers and if need be shim out the bulkheads to get a nice run. I don't think you should cut the deck in back to your bulkheads. Better to build them out. The bh are plywood so can be cut off or sanded back from the inside if required. I covered mine completely so can't see them edge on.

 

But same thing with deck.. I didn't want to see that plywood vaneer edge on the outside hull so the basswood planks covered it. That's why I recessed that rail in.

 

[tennfox]

gotcha...    as I was thinking on it I think I may build the smaller ones and sand the deck back on the others that are almost right.  Little bit of both.   BH2 is really slim and needs to be built up, but 4-5 may need a bit of sanding and filling... Im just going to lay the planks and fill or sand to them. 

 

I still have to cut a rabbit and fair the hulls.....  just trying to get my game plan down.

 

Thanks again!!!

[Old Collingwood]

Just to  add  another   angle  -  I think  I  sanded  and shaped  by  bulkheads  to  run flush with the  deck  -  but  we all  tackle  the same situation  from a  different  way.

 

OC.

[tennfox]

honestly this ship is so.......(not for virgin ears)... that I think any way you get it done is the right way......

[Old Collingwood]

Yes indeed  -  if  you  can build  this  kit  -  I think you can build  any.

 

OC.

[allanyed]

It appears the kit is not without its challenges already but will you be marking out the lines of planking so you can accurately taper the hull strakes of planking? Then again, if Protector had a coppered bottom most of the planking below the wales will be covered. 

Allan

[tennfox]

Im still working thru everything... The protector did not have a coppered hull so I have to figure out how to taper.  Ive been reading up on planking and plan on using a 'fan' to mark off the hull.. but I am very open to any help anyone can give to save me any frustration with this.

 

 

[tennfox]

Back at it.   Had to redo the rear rabbit.  Now bending the walnut to frame the gun ports. Taking it slow and trying to dry fit one or two steps ahead before I glue.

[tennfox]

This is getting to be frustrating.  @Srenner @Old Collingwood @hamilton  Can you lend me a hand?  Ive looked at yalls builds and it looks like Im doing the same as you.  Using 1.5 x 3 for the starter  strip for the ports. BUT, The instructions say 2 different things.  The instructions  photo1 say 1.5 x 3, but the big fold out papers (Map) show 1x4 then 1.5 x 3 on top.  I transferred the item to the number to keep things clear, and its even more confusing.  The instructions dont have any of the other things the "maps" have.  w = walnut, b=basswood, l=lime.    

 

Can you give me a little insight on how to proceed?  Ive glued the bottom 1.5 x 3 walnuts in already, but I can acetone them off if I need to use the 1x4.

   

[Srenner]

Hi... the rail width is 5mm in figure 9 so the timbers below that need to be less. I think either way is okay... I personally bought extra walnut 1mm x3mm so that it was 3 layers of 1mm equal to 3mm with 1mm overhang at the rail each side to allow the rail edges to be chamfered.

[Old Collingwood]

If memory serves me  I think the 1.5 x 3   is  for  your  First  layer of  planking  and the  1 x 4  is  for your  Second planking  to  go  over the   top of the first,    as long  as  you have coverd  the area  from the  keel  to  the  top  of the frames on both sides that will  be your  platform to start you second planking including  the  whale  and  profille  planks  that  stick out a bit proud of the  planking.

 

Oh  and  then to make up  the  upper   wall  width   (in my case  - 3.5)  after  planking both  layers on the hull,  you can cut back the  frames  level with the  false deck  and  add  the  inner   wall planks  of 1 x 3   or 1 x 4  what ever ones you  choose. 

 

OC. 

Edited April 7 by Old Collingwood

[hamilton]

I didn't use any of the kit-supplied planking except below the wales and I also didn't use those metal gunport frames, but framed out the gunports with scrapwood....sorry, it was so long ago I can't really remember........

 

Because of the flaws of this kit, I strongly recommend just going with whatever works rather than with the kit's recommendations - that's what I did about 75% of the time on this build. If you already have those gunports installed, then the main thing is that the general arrangement (1 strake above the gunports , 1 below and whatever works to fill the gap between) be maintained, and also that whatever material you use it should be of a consistent width - at 1:100 scale I would go for the 3mm planks myself - 4mm would look a little too wide, I think, for this vessel at this scale - those can be used for the lower hull planking.

hamilton

[allanyed]

On 4/6/2024 at 10:55 PM, hamilton said:

I didn't use any of the kit-supplied planking except below the wales and I also didn't use those metal gunport frames, but framed out the gunports with scrapwood..

Hamilton,   Kudos for going the extra mile/km.   

 

Tennfox, many are happy with what the kit provides, which is great, but some are interested in going a bit more in depth.  The dimensions of virtually every piece of your ship is in the 1719 Establishment.  Many of these are inconsequential when viewing the finished model, but some are quite noticeable. These can be found at RMG and in several books if you are interested in this kind of information for now and in the future. 

 

Allan

[tennfox]

I've been working on the ports and getting ready for the first planking.   One question.  I notice i have a little twist in the frame. I'm sure i can straighten it or during the hull planking.  Is there a trick to hold the twist straight while you plank?  I'm sure I'm not the first to encounter this. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 17 by tennfox

[Old Collingwood]

You could  try some  heat  (haiirdryer)  while  gently  twisting it  in the  right direction,  I would  try to do  this  before you start first planking as I am  not sure  if planking will  pull  it in to  shape  - and might  lock the  twist  in.

 

OC.

[tennfox]

I first attempted top use rubber bands on the bow and keel. Snapped the bow just like @Old Collingwood. Glued it ball and tried using twine thru the ports at the bow and around the rear keel.  Used a pencil to tighten.  As you can see,  its a lot straighter.  My thought is to try to plank the middle of one side ((after I get it all laid out), first , to hold the new shape then remove the twine and continue planking. I'll keep you posted