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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Also found these on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=masks+for+revell+b+17+f&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Masks++for++Revell++B17F&_sacat=0 OC.
  2. Thank you denis, same here with checking the edges I have been doing a fair bit of checking and re checking and making sure they are square, an old trick O picked up is to put a slight bevel on the edges so the facing edge is tighter than the inward one. OC.
  3. While researching the Revell Mosquito a few things manufacturing errors came to light - firstly the main undercarriage units are not quite the right length and the wheels are made to large and to thin, giving her a to low frontal height, secondly the spinners are two flat and not pointed enough, the work around I have decided to try are to reduce the drop of the rear oleo leg by a few mil, and with the wheels I managed to get a pair of Airfix ones (they are supposed to be more accurate) with the spinners I will have a go at making more of a point on them with careful sanding. This should hopefully help a bit. OC.
  4. As craig said - sorry to hear about your missing parts nothing is more annoying or having wrong fitting parts in a kit. OC.
  5. Excellent info - just looked on Ebay for that Gator's Glue but no sign of it. OC.
  6. The floor and sides had to have quite a lot sanded away to get the sides to meet, even still its a fairly tight join - not much wriggle room, I will have to join the bottom fist then wait till its fully set before pulling and glue-ing the top in, that way I will make the joins as tight as possible. OC.
  7. Another good day - kicked off by dry fitting the inner cockpit against both frontal parts to test fit, at first they would not meet so I did some investigating then light sanding - investigating - light sanding etc etc etc.........I eventually found the point where both side met with the inside cockpit inside. Next job was to start fitting all the pe side wall parts some were quite fiddly not just fitting but picking up with fine nose tweezers, it took a few hours to file off some plastic moldings not needed - and re fit with pe, I did this on both walls then starting on the one side a ran some black and green paint in thing layers to preserve the detail. I also made up the range finding device for the nose that is made up by transparency parts and some pe. So this is the stage so far - including a dry fit of the one side minus some more paint and dry brushing. OC.
  8. Have a word with Craig I am sure he will have some tricks up his sleave. OC.
  9. You could try a rattle can satin top coat after you have put the rest of the decals on and closed up the body, that might help, as I assume in action would they have had a slight sheen to the skin of the heli ? OC.
  10. "Silvering" is always a problem with wet slide transfers I know everyone suggests putting them on a real shiny surface (gloss painted) then when fully set dulled with a flat or satin coat to choice after. Oh! and micro sol and micro set is supposed to really help if the surface has raised areas or rivet detail, to help the transfer settle down as it softens the decal. OC.
  11. What a Great subject and set up - welcome to the club. OC.
  12. Looking good denis, the weathering sure helps to change it from a plastic model into a realistic work horse. OC.
  13. Another good day at the table, I firstly fitted the stearing column then the hand brake, next I worked on the instrument panel, this included pe front sections including the clocks, they had to be cut away then placed with watery ca onto a pe base plate, in all there was three sections, I left them to set then ran some nato black around the edges, there is also a back consul that covers the rudder pedals, this too was fitted then painted black After the assembly was set and dry I glued it into place on the front area. This completes the internal cockpit assembly - next off I will fit some pe parts to the inside walls of the cockpit area, then paint them accordingly. OC.
  14. Thank you for that, my late farther also did some light work on FAA Corsairs during the war, great plane over powered for their air frame, hence they needed to keep their power down - could have got a lot more horse power out of it. OC.
  15. Another nice build on the cards Jack - loving what you do with them. OC.
  16. Thanks mate, I have that stage to arrive soon (got the mask). OC.
  17. Welcome to the Clan, you have picked a nice build there Hasegawa have always made decent models. OC.

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