Grand Banks Dory by davec - Model Shipways - 1:24 - Shipwright Series

[davec]

I started another project, the Model Shipways Grand Banks Dory.  There are many build logs with kit pictures, so I won’t include here.  I’m planning on replacing all the basswood anyways.

 

I usually have two projects (wooden ship and plastic airplane) going, but for a bunch of reasons, thought I should try doing two ship models at the same time.

 

Rationale:

·         I got a really good deal on it at a club auction

·         I’ve wanted to try one of David Antscherl’s kits

·         I think I have my jointer and bandsaw finally tuned right, and wanted to try milling some wood

·         I’ve found working with laser cut pieces on the longboat a little frustrating.  I’m sure I will get better at it with some more practice, but wanted to get a sense of the comparison between cutting the parts out myself vs cleaning char off laser cut pieces.

·         I want to build with boxwood and some contrasting wood, and wanted to see how well patterns made from scanned laser cut sheets would work.  This was particularly important on this model as the plans in the instruction book don’t include all the parts.

·         Main reason: I’m planning on starting a fully framed Echo, but want another project going so I don’t try working on Echo when tired or distracted.  This seemed a good opportunity to pilot building two ship models at the same time.  If it isn’t going to work for two fairly simple kits (longboat and Dory), I shouldn’t try it with Echo.

 

So far, so good.  I started with the stand as a test for the jointer and bandsaw.  The wood is a piece of pao ferro that I had on my shelf.  Very happy with both tools. The bandsaw got knocked out of alignment during the house move a few years ago, and is finally dialed back in.  The jointer was never fully adjusted and is finally working the way it should.

 

Scanning the basswood laser cut sheets has also worked well.  The burn marks are thin enough and in the right place to get good patterns.  For the first few pieces (hull bottom, stem, transom, stern knee) cutting the parts out has been very straightforward and taken less time than cleaning char.  For some parts like the longboat frames this would not be true. 

 

I’ve also been making some progress on the other two projects and will update the logs soon.

[robert952]

Following along.

 

Your decision to use different wood illustrates that even a simple "beginner's kit' can provide challenges and avenues for the more experienced modeler. 

 

I look forward to this build.  You've got a good start and a nice plan for the project. 

Edited March 21 by robert952
correct typo

[Helge Hafstad]

Interested, so will follow. Am building a dory myself, and am especially interested in various riggings.

[davec]

Robert - many thanks!  I have a special talent for turning simple things into challenges.

 

Helge - thanks for following.  I looked at your build, which looks really interesting.  I hadn't realized that Dorys were rigged for sail.  I plan on building according to the model shipways plans (or at least to scans of the kit parts) so will not be rigging the model.

 

I've made a little progress, adding the stem and stern.  I've started cutting the frames and crosspieces for the building jig.

[JacquesCousteau]

Looks like a great start! I'm very interested in seeing how it turns out with the boxwood/contrasting wood hull.

[davec]

I spent some time travelling and work got busy, but I've been cutting out and sanding pieces.  I made the jig support pieces in basswood.  They are thick enough that I think they will support the sanding and bending even thought the boxwood frames and planking may exert more force than the kit basswood during the sanding and gluing.  I made new parts and didn't use the kit ones as it looks like these get sacrificed when the model is cut from the jig and I wanted to leave the original kit buildable.

[davec]

The frames  are cut out, glued together, installed, and faired.  I debonded and reglued the sternpost again after the picture was taken.  When I dryfit the garboard strake, it was a little too short. I realized I had glued the sternpost a little too far out.  I'm not using the kit parts, and without the laser marked guides, didn't get the post in the right place the first time.  After regluing and refairing, it looks like the planks will fit correctly.  I tried brushing water on the hull bottom as per the instructions.   It looks like it works great on the kit wood, but not the boxwood I'm using.  I didn't get an adequate bend, and there were some water stain marks (should have taken a picture, but didn't) on the other side of the wood at the margin of where the water soaked into the wood.  I was able to sand most of the stain away.  I got an adequate bend from fully soaking the wood (fortunately did not weaken the glue joints) and didn't have a problem with staining.

 

 

 

[druxey]

Boxwood is nowhere as easily bent as either basswood, holly or yellow cedar. But you know that already!

[davec]

Druxey - thanks!  I think boxwood is worth the extra effort in terms of how it looks, especially if leaving unstained or painted.  I've been trying the techniques in the instructions to see which ones might work with it.  Brushing the water on one side was intriguing.  I haven't had any problems with clamps or rubber bands indenting the wood, even when wet.  For the garboard, I'm soaking the entire piece, which was working great until I knocked the sternpost off.  Work on hold until the glue dries.

[davec]

I'm doing a restart on this.  I finished the planking and when I took the hull out of the building board realized I had a little asymmetry.  I could probably have debonded and reattached the planks, but cumulatively between the waterstains on the bottom, a couple of pieces that were a lot different color than the other planks, and a few other things I wasn't happy with, it was time for a redo.  The beauty of scratchbuilding is that it doesn't feel like a big deal.  Over the weekend I milled the wood and cut the parts to shape.  I'm travelling, but next weekend will sand everything and begin assembling.  Having done this once, I don't think the redo will take anywhere near as long, and the end result will be a lot better.  Will start posting pictures again when I get back to where I left off.

Edited July 11 by davec

[davec]

I picked this up again.  I've redone the frames and started planking.  I had some visible glue spots, but they seem to sand away with 320 paper, so I think this will come out ok with a clear finish instead of paint. 

 

Somewhere along the way I must have done something a little off because the sheer plank was about 1 mm short.  No pictures yet, but I debonded the too short planks and cut slightly longer ones.  Will post some more pictures once I bend and install the new planks.

[davec]

Back in business - shear planks replaced.  I've been afraid to look at how much glue I will need to clean up on the inside, but the outside cleaned up well enough that I think I can use a clear finish.  I'm trying to decide between swiss pear, cherry, and natural pear for the contrasting wood.  I really like swiss pear, but am thinking of going with one of the other woods just so it looks different from my other models.

 

Edited November 10 by davec

[druxey]

Looks nice and clean now!

[davec]

A little more work done.  I've removed the hull from the building jig, and added the false stem, side cleats, and seat risers.  I've also cut out the bands, milled some 1/16" square stock for the gunwales, and sharpened my chisels in preparation for trimming the frames for the gunwales.  

[druxey]

Looking good!