bigcreekdad Posted September 22, 2013 Share #1 Posted September 22, 2013 1) doing some small (.25")cross cuts I find the wood (basswood) splinters often. I've tried finer blades, but result is the same. Any tips? 2) I'm cross cutting billets for my Hannah frames. Some are so long as to require me to take off the rip fence. Any tips to insure identical length cuts while doing this? Having fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted September 22, 2013 Share #2 Posted September 22, 2013 If you are doing crosscuts specially long ones you should NOT be using your RIP fence. The wood will bind as you near the end of a cut and splinter the wood or worse yet throw the cut off piece. To do identical crosscuts you can tape a block to the fence to mark your cut then slide the work through the blade so that the cutoff is free to move away from the blade a little. Also you should be pushing you wood through the blade with your miter gauge. To do cuts longer than the table you might be able to make or use a device that will hold a starting block where you want to make your cut. BILL russ and druxey 2 Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete38 Posted September 23, 2013 Share #3 Posted September 23, 2013 If you are having trouble with tear out when crosscutting when the blade exits the wood....use a scrap piece behind to eliminate this...as seen in this picture I have used a couple of clamps and some wood to make a temporary installed stop that goes beyond the table...nothing fancy but it work...will try to set it up and post you a picture tomorrow.. Good Luck CAd My Fingers, WackoWolf, reklein and 1 other 4 Quote Triton Cross Section 1:32 SEE YA LATER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAd My Fingers Posted September 23, 2013 Share #4 Posted September 23, 2013 Thanks for sharing, Pete; like bigcreekdad I'm learning the ropes with my Jim saw so the pictures and tips are very helpful. Jay Quote Current Build: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete38 Posted September 23, 2013 Share #5 Posted September 23, 2013 Here is my setup for longer repetitive cuts....crude but it works... The overall picture.... I am using the legos as the moment because they are very light and does not bend the wood down.... Clamp my long bar to the adjustment clamp where the rip fence goes and I can use this for moving the length just like you move the original rip fence If I ever get the time would like to make a more permanent type Maybe out of aluminum that would have a t-slot and nut for the adjustment and bold right to the rip fence adjustment.. Hope this helps someone..... CAd My Fingers and WackoWolf 2 Quote Triton Cross Section 1:32 SEE YA LATER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven sturgis Posted March 7, 2015 Share #6 Posted March 7, 2015 On my full size saw it is a benefit to make a zero clearance blade cover. This will stop the tear out. You make the new cover from plywood and just lift the blade while the saw is running to gut the zero clearance cover. Quote My current build Flying Fish http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9858-american-clipper-ship-flying-fish-by-steven-sturgis-model-shipways/ sail techniques http://modelshipworl...-and-technique/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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