Norwegian Sailing Pram by Desertanimal - Model Shipways - Scale 1:12

[Desertanimal]

Here we go on the next build the Sailing Pram. This is my second ship build. So far I am up to cleaning up the outside of the hull. I figured it was a good place to get the log started, plus I have some questions.

 

This kit certainly has you up your game. You've got keep a close eye on many things for it to stay true. 

 

Let's start with a picture of the transom. I was a little mixed up because the knee on the aft transom reaches higher up than it does in the photos. I checked some build logs and they matched mine so I moved on.

 

 

Getting everything cleaned up and ready to plank. I didn't have a lot of confidence in the the frames staying square so I added some supports. The transom mount on the base also allowed it to rotate a little so I added the other support you see in the front right of the photo. I don't have a photo of it but drilling the hole in the bow transom knee went well. I started a little smaller and slowly. It came out clean but it's just a tiny bit off center. Darn close though, I'm happy with it.

 

 

 

Lining up the center plank.

 

 

Cutting the sloping rabbet on the back of the plank for the fit at the transom. That was an exercise for sure. Tried many methods, files, sandpaper, finally resorted to more or less "shaving" off the bevel with a sharp #11 blade. And the instructions say 1/3 of the thickness of the board, Hahaha. I went a little deeper because of the overhang, no point in the end being 1/3 deep if it gets trimmed off and farther back it's not quite as deep. That's why it's a little deeper. They did improve the more I did!

 

 

 

Somehow when sanding the bevel on the aft transom I lowered the height of the notch at the center so after the center plank was attached the transom knee was hanging in the air. I added a sliver of wood underneath neat after tracing the shape of the spare transom knee they provided. It should look ok after some cleaning up.

 

 

 

Planking...

 

My notes on planking. This boat planks up slowly. Getting the planks where they are supposed to go and keeping the hull flat on the forms and the transoms level with the board is a bunch to pay attention to. At least with me, once I've got something clamped up, I'm temped to start bending the other side. DON'T do it. Once you get it set and good. Leave it alone to dry, don't risk twisting it or lowering the joint on the transom etc. The Dory was different from this one as it was getting glued to the forms, so the farther you went, the stronger it got. This hull is only relying on that bevel glued to the next plank to hold together. As you move up it tries to lift off of the frames, keep checking underneath to make sure it's still seated on the forms. So take your time and be patient. Let it dry before removing rubber bands and clamps.

That also brings up the point of make sure your bevels make good joints. Dry fit the planks and use a straight edge on the forms to see how well the bevel matches up and clean it up accordingly.

 

 

 

Here's a note for anyone starting this build. After I removed the hull from the frame I noticed char on the inside. I was pretty sure I had cleaned up most of the char and then I realized it was transferred from the frames. So sand that char off also just be careful not the change the shape. It will save you the hassle of cleaning it up later.

There was also some light dents from holding it on the frames that I'm taking care of with a little water.

 

 

Here is the outside of the hull getting some sanding. I'm pretty happy with the spacing and true-ness of it all. The joints at the transom are not too bad. I'd love to hear opinions and constructive criticism on how to make things better.

 

 

 

Some final questions.-- How should the edges of the planks on the bottom be handled? Should they be left square or rounded over? 

 

The instructions mention that sometimes the skeg has a protective brass cover on it. I think that could look nice. Can anyone direct me to on details on that?

 

Thanks for any help and suggestions!

Chris

 

 

[ccoyle]

I love the lines on this little boat. Seeing one being built here always makes me wish I had a real one.

[rob444b]

I rounded the edges of the planks on my pram, but I think either way looks good. It is more personal preference. If you want a brass skeg on the bottom, I would use a thin brass strip and attach it after you paint. I would use CA to attach it in place.

Your pram looks amazing so far. I also had the transom knee hanging in space, don't feel alone!

 

Rob

[druxey]

Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate.

 

You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.

[Desertanimal]

So there's been work being done. I got the interior completed. I used the wrong stock for the floorboard cleats. Figured that out when I went looking for that piece of wood and started going Hmmmm. Looking at the build it seems they get covered so I'm not going to worry about that and just replace the missing stock. An excuse to go to the hobby store with the intention of only spending $1.00, best intentions and all right?

 

I occasionally get supervised by one of our old cats. This is Marilyn, she's 16 and diabetic and doing great, having the best life.

 

 

 

 

Here is the current state. Transoms finished, mast step installed. I've read a lot of concern about the height of the thwarts and I've also read that in the end it really doesn't matter. So there they are.

 

Rowlock pads (shouldn't those be call Oarlock pads?) are next to be glued.

 

 

 

Thank you for all the encouraging words!

 

Chris

 

 

[MAGIC's Craig]

Looking very good, Chris.  And please give Marilyn a gentle skritch from Vicky and me and Ballou. 

[Desertanimal]

I just realized that the floor boards are connected to the floor cleats. So looks like I’ll be redoing those because they’ll sit too low.  No biggie. 

[Desertanimal]

So I replaced the floorboard cleats and replaced them with more appropriate sized wood. I had to trim down the closest I could find at the hobby store.

 

Worked on the dagger board. Installed the thwarts. Those took a lot of trimming to get them to fit well.

 

 

 

 

Started on painting. Trying to really improve this step of my process. So I am open to any help you can offer. I have a couple of other threads going about that...

 

 

Filled a few ugly spots and such. I think this was just the first coat.

 

Then started working on the inside. That was a chore getting into all the nooks and crannies, but I enjoy painting in general. It's very zen for me.

 

 

You can still see many brush marks and glue marks. I'm not sure why I think those will just go away....

 

Here's a closeup of the edge. Is this finish good or at full scale would it look like a 5 year old, a bucket of paint, and a rag? The shine on the bottom corner of the rowlock is reflection.

 

 

Thanks again for all the kind words!

Chris

[ccoyle]

12 hours ago, Desertanimal said:

Here's a closeup of the edge. Is this finish good or at full scale would it look like a 5 year old, a bucket of paint, and a rag?

 

Close-up photography is the enemy of being satisfied with a job well done -- it highlights a wealth of tiny mistakes that no one will notice at normal viewing distances. I have to remind myself of this fact all the time.

[Wawona59]

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error.  In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications.  A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success.  If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly.  Are you using acrylics?  I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer.  I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Your pram is coming along nicely.  Don't sweat the mistakes.  They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work.  

 

Stay the course and enjoy the journey.  Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment.  Carry on!  Keep up the good work.

 

 

[rob444b]

Looks wonderful! If I may suggest, make sure the dagger board will fit the trunk after painting. Guess how I know? 😅

 

Rob

[Desertanimal]

Hey Robb, yeah I was concerned about that. I made sure it was a pretty loose fit before paint. Fingers crossed!🤞 

Edited Monday at 09:26 PM by Desertanimal

[SiriusVoyager]

On 5/27/2024 at 12:03 PM, rob444b said:

Looks wonderful! If I may suggest, make sure the dagger board will fit the trunk after painting. Guess how I know? 😅

 

Rob

I may have had to repaint my dagger board after installing. 
 

The pram is looking great!  Your paint looks good to me. 

Edited Tuesday at 09:25 PM by SiriusVoyager

[Desertanimal]

Thank you all for the kind words and encouragement.

 

The build has stalled a little while I wait for smaller nails to arrive. I ordered them from Drydock and shipping takes quite a while.

 

Some questions while I wait. I understand all the brass should be blackened in order to look like iron. What about the white metal parts? Should those also be black?

 

Is there a good source for reference photos with this boat? I would like to see what “accessories” I can make that will be good practice on scratch building parts and also make the model just a little more realistic. I would appreciate any suggestions.

 

Thanks for checking in!

Chris