USS Baltimore CA-3 1890 by Jsk - FINISHED - Heinkel Models - Scale 1/200 - CARD

[ccoyle]

Good to hear, Jeff! My retirement is still a few years down the road -- but I can dream!

[Jsk]

Well, she's launched!

 

I have some mixed emotions for this build. Like always, by the end I was tired of working on it. But over the past several years I have worked hard to break the habit of having unfinished projects laying around. I used to be really bad about it. Then I started by telling myself that I would not buy any new books until I finished the one I was currently reading. Then it worked its way into my figure painting hobby and by now I always try to finish what I start. Still... I'm glad this one's finished. We're planning on moving in October so I won't be starting any new modeling projects until we get settle into the new place. I won't have as much hobby space in the new house so I'm sure there will have to be some adjustments.

 

So the good and the bad of the Heinkel USS Baltimore kit. Keep in mind that I built the electronic version which I had to print myself. There is a physical print of this kit and laser cut formers are available from WAK. I did the roll-your-own version.

 

1) Like many modern card models the design is very precise. Perhaps too precise... at least for someone of my skill level. I found many of the small parts just too frustrating and difficult to make from card. Luckily, I could compensate by virtually modeling most of these parts and having them 3d printed. In fact, I found the 3d modelling one of the most enjoyable parts of the build.

 

2) Again, like most modern card models the instructions are only average. They mostly consist of images of the assembled model (or sub-models) with the part numbers picked out. So while the builder usually knows what goes where, the sequence of putting them there is left to the imagination. It does require some thought in order to avoid tripping over previously installed parts. Though the model carries a very simplified rigging scheme, the instructions are particularly vague about the rigging. It gives no indication as to how the various lines attach to the hull, etc. In fact, the lines are barely discernible in the instructions. I did refer to some of the numerous images of the Baltimore available on-line but I have no idea if my interpretation is anywhere close to accurate. In short, there's plenty of scope for independent research with this model.

 

3) Not a attribute of the electronic kit, per se, but I need to pay more attention to the card/paper I use. Certainly some of the smaller parts would have been more achievable if I had printed them on thinner stock. But for some reason it didn't even occur to me until very late in the process. I printed everything on, IIRC, 110# index card which I've had for several years. I found that the card itself de-laminated much too easily! Even now i'm afraid the ventilators will pop off the deck and take the top layer of the card with it. It's sort of like gluing together a plastic model after painting it. Its integrity is only as good as the paint adherence.

 

4) I'm not very happy with my build quality. There's just a lot of sloppiness when I look at the details. Overall, there are plenty of details on the model so the individual gaffs are somewhat overwhelmed by the 'busyness' of the whole thing. Still, I don't think I'll be building a case to protect this particular model. Not to mention, with the upcoming move I was feeling pressured to complete the model and rushed through some steps that would have benefited from doing more research on the actual ship. 

 

Overall, though, I have several more Heinkel models in my virtual stash and look forward to building them. Heinkel models are a rich source for ironclads and pre-dreadnoughts and they fill a niche not available anywhere else. I've seen several examples built by builders much more talented and experienced than me and they can be truly inspirational models.

 

In the shipyard for the final fitting out:

Beauty shots ("No close ups, Mr. Demille, no close ups!):

 

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

Jeff,

  The Baltimore turned out great!

 

I agree about most card model instructions leaving a lot open to interpretation.

 

I have been coating both sides of a card model with sealant (the generic Folk Art variety from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s) prior to cutting anything out.

 

That saves a LOT of aggravation with small/intricate parts delaminating.

[Jsk]

1 hour ago, GrandpaPhil said:

...I have been coating both sides of a card model with sealant (the generic Folk Art variety from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s) prior to cutting anything out.

 

That saves a LOT of aggravation with small/intricate parts delaminating.

...

Thanks, GPP!

 

Yeah, I'm going to have to try that. Do you use a brush on sealant or spray? I don't tend to use spray anything as the Admiral has some respiratory sensitivity to almost anything aerosol. I didn't treat the card in any way on this build. Since I'm using a laser printer I think it will also help protect from scratching the toner off the card, too. One of the reasons I didn't do anything on the Baltimore was because it was mostly white so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. However, a lot of the pre-dreads are black and I think that would just be a nightmare to deal with.

[GrandpaPhil]

I brush on the Folk Art Clear Primer.  It works great!

[ccoyle]

Well done, Jeff! 

 

2 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I have been coating both sides of a card model with sealant (the generic Folk Art variety from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s) prior to cutting anything out.

 

That saves a LOT of aggravation with small/intricate parts delaminating.

 

I actually go the opposite route and purposely delaminate most rolled parts. For print-it-yourself kits, you can simply print the parts on 20# bond. For printed kits, which are my preference these days, you can remove most of the layers before rolling.

 

No modeling until at least October, eh? Courage, man!

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  You've done a fine job on the Baltimore !! ... and every builder is aware of any mis-step, or 'could have done better' on their own build.  I printed the kit on 8 1/2 x 14" legal paper by using Photoshop to enlarge the images enough so the large pieces fit somewhat within the 14" limit, and will yield almost a 25" model (about 1:160 scale) when built over a future winter when current projects are finished.

  Of course, that made the width of the image go beyond the 8.5" width - necessitating splitting the image into 2 cropped versions that manage to get all the pieces intact on either one or the other.  I'm hoping that the larger version will make some of the fiddly bits easier to make. - And your build offers everyone valuable guidance.

  Perhaps filling the voids between the bulkheads of the paper 'skeleton' with balsa will add much needed strength, heft, (and when shaped and sealed) something to form the paper 'skin' to with more limited wrinkling - especially in the upper stern area.  other items can then be pinned right into the balsa as convenient.

  Thank you again for sharing, mate !!