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Posted

 IMHO, both walnut and yellow wood blocks are too light in color and both need to be stained. Walnut will take stain easier but becomes too dark. Yellow wood blocks are harder to stain and require soaking in stain overnight. I like the irregularities yellow wood blocks have after staining and seem a little more realistic. Walnut blocks when stained become brown lumps, IMHO. I work at 1:120 so larger scaled blocks may (and I would expect) provide different results. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted (edited)

I think they are  the same just a different option on how you want it to look, just like  the decision you will have to make for the hull. Copper tiles, copper tape or paint the hull.  Like they say your boat, MSW just shows you how to make them float, it's builders choice :)

Bob  M.

PS

Plus what Keith says lol

Edited by Knocklouder
More info

"Start so you can Finish!" 

In progress:
The Dutchess of Kingston - 1:64 Vanguard Models 🙂 

In queue:
Astrolabe 1812 - Mantua 1:50;  Pegasus - Amati 1:64 

Completed:
Santa Maria - 1:64, La Pinta - 1:64, La Nina - 1:64, Hannah Ship in a Bottle - 1:300, The Mayflower - 1:64, Viking Ship Drakkar -1:50 all by Amati. King of the Mississippi - Artesania Latina - 1:80  Queen Anne's Revenge - Piece Cool - 1:300  The Sea of Galilee Boat - Scott Miller - 1:20

Posted

Robin,

There is another thread on a very similar topic in the 'masts rigging and sails' section of the forum which you might not have seen. It has comparisons between standard (cheap) blocks, fine wooden blocks, laminated card and 3D printed. The conclusion from my perspective is that 3D printed is the best looking option. Other opinions are available. 

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36649-blocks-wood-card-or-3d-resin/#elControls_1046969_menu

 

Regards,

George

George Bandurek

Near the coast in Sussex, England

 

Current build: HMS Whiting (Caldercraft Ballahoo with enhancements)

 

Previous builds: Cutter Sherbourne (Caldercraft) and many non-ship models

 

Posted

Plus 3D-printed ones can be painted in any colour and shade thereof you consider (after research) represents the original ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
29 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Plus 3D-printed ones can be painted in any colour and shade thereof you consider (after research) represents the original ...

Yeah but simulating wood with paint is a whole thing in and of itself, requiring at least two colors (one translucent) for best results and doing that without clogging the sheave holes would be a problem on smaller blocks. 

Posted

I spray-paint with acrylics and apply acrylic washes to my blocks milled from bakelite-paper and never had a serious problem. One can always ream the holes with a drill.

 

As normally the sheave would be defined in the 3D-printed version, the actual hole is very short.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

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