CSS Alabama by Beakerboy123 - Mamoli - 1:120

[Beakerboy123]

Re-starting this Mamoli CSS Alabama that I got as a Christmas present in 2009 when I didn’t know squazine about how to build. Then I got some practicums and built their kits and decided to strip my Alabama down to the bulkheads and start over. Duczec Models sent me replacement wood and I finally got done with my previous ship. Now I’m ready to build this one. 
 

A friend from the Model Shipwrights of Ohio loaned me his CSS Alabama: Anatomy of a Confederate Raider (Bowcock) to guide me along. 
 

Let’s see how this turns out. I’ll be adding some pics next.

[Knocklouder]

Good luck on your journey with this build.          Bob  M.

[Beakerboy123]

Tore he old hull down to the “studs”. Dusek Models sent me a new laser cut panel and replacement wood to start over. Shipping actually cost more than the wood. I’d do things differently now but I didn’t want complicated so I paid for convenience.

 

Here’s the blank canvas in my homemade keel vice. 

I installed the lifting frame and propeller. using as my guide the Bowcock book, which bases its measurements and drawings on original builders blueprints as well as two models that are also based on those blueprints, one is on display in an art gallery in the town the Alabama was built (Laird Model), the other is on display at the Mariner’s Museum at Newport News (Bolloch Model). 

I’ll take the prop out to sand down the aft section around the stern cabin. 

 

[Jim Lad]

Very courageous move to simply start again!

 

John

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

The journey of a hundred miles begins with a single step.  Sometimes taking that step is the hardest to do.  The famous quote by Bilbo Baggins, as quoted by Frodo, is: “It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out of your door. You step into the Road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there is no knowing where you might be swept off too.”

[Beakerboy123]

First plank of the first layer of planking is in place, this Mamoli kit is weird (to me at least) because I’ve always started with the wale as the first plank. They have you starting at a reference mark on the sides of the transom. The top of the plank runs flush along the very top of the bulkheads up to 6 and 5, which stick up higher.

The way the instructions look, the remainder of the first layer of planks run based on this first one. Referring to the Bowcock book, the hull is very sheer, no protruding wale plank below the gun ports.

[Beakerboy123]

I realized quickly that when I tore the old hull down that I hadn’t replenished my wood strips to finish the first layer of planking, so I got new ones cut by the Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights (Link), which it turns out, is literally right down the road from me. David and Ev hooked me right up, and his wood supply is very impressive.
 

So I was back on track. The new wood was 0.5mm thicker than the OG, so I decided to restart everything, no worries. It’s summer so I get to the shop when I can, usually in snippets, enough at this point to lay on a few strakes. So it is slow going.

I did make those cool binder clip clamps out of mini clips. And I’m very glad I pre-fitted the keel bottom with screws for brass pedestals as I have something sturdy for my keel clamp to bite onto (see the two screws poking out from the bottom of the clamp).

 

That’s it. After laying on the 1st layer, it’ll be a coat of Durham’s Rock Hard wood filler and sand sand sand. It’s early days, but it’s got the shape of a ship now.

[alross2]

That’s it. After laying on the 1st layer, it’ll be a coat of Durham’s Rock Hard wood filler and sand sand sand. It’s early days, but it’s got the shape of a ship now.

 

You might consider a different filler as Durham's is usually much harder than the woods (such as bass) commonly supplied in kits.  I've used auto body filler (bondo) for decades.  It's the same relative hardness as basswood, so it sands and feathers well without scouring out the wood on either side of the patch.  In addition, as it is a polyester resin, it is an adhesive and locks the planks in place.  One water-based filler I've had success with is Famowood which I purchase online.  It is similar in hardness to basswood and sands well.  

Edited Monday at 02:17 PM by alross2

[Beakerboy123]

Cool. Makes sense to me. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks for the suggestion. This is the wood working Bondo right? I’ve watched the 2 part Bondo for auto body work used, but I’d think that’d be pretty hard.

Edited yesterday at 01:08 AM by Beakerboy123

[alross2]

Nope, just plain old automotive bondo.  

[robert952]

Hopping on board to follow along. I enjoy reading about this intersesting ship and it's voyages.