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Posted

One thing that I did when I built the Phantom, and I have suggested others to do is add a watered down mixture of wood glue to the bulwarks to give them some strength. When you're shaving them down and carving out scuppers the thickness is scary. It's Looking Good! brings back memories of cutting copper tape and plating the hull. that's the only thing I didn't like about this kit. and the one I'm currently building.

Posted

One of my near by hobby shops had some smaller cleats in stock which is kind of funny because they don't sell any wooden ship models. But I took a chance going over to see them anyway just in case and I got lucky. Although the cleats aren't as small as the plans show I think they'll work. I do have to do some modifications in order to make them fit onto the stanchions. In the pic I put the original cleat that came with the kit on the left and on the right is the new cleat, in the middle is one of the cleats  I modified. If for some reason I find that these cleats don't work I've done some experimenting with 16 gauge wire and was able to make something that would work if need be.

post-7274-0-21261800-1387051199_thumb.jpg

Posted

Said it before on other builds but will say it again.. 'I do love the lines of old American sail boats, very pleasing to the eye'.

 

Am loving this build too, keep up the wonderful work Mike

 

Eamonn

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

One of my near by hobby shops had some smaller cleats in stock which is kind of funny because they don't sell any wooden ship models. But I took a chance going over to see them anyway just in case and I got lucky. Although the cleats aren't as small as the plans show I think they'll work. I do have to do some modifications in order to make them fit onto the stanchions. In the pic I put the original cleat that came with the kit on the left and on the right is the new cleat, in the middle is one of the cleats  I modified. If for some reason I find that these cleats don't work I've done some experimenting with 16 gauge wire and was able to make something that would work if need be.

Mike what size did the new cleats come out at

Posted

they're 5mm but I had to alter the base of the cleat so they would fit on to the stanchions.

thanks Mike, I did some calculating on a scale calculator, hope its right, according to the calculator a 5mm cleat (scale size) is real world size of 18.9 inches does that seem right for a cleat size?

Posted

thanks Mike, I did some calculating on a scale calculator, hope its right, according to the calculator a 5mm cleat (scale size) is real world size of 18.9 inches does that seem right for a cleat size?

it's probably still larger than a cleat should be at this scale but it's the smallest cleat I can find on the market so far. looking at the plans the cleats are much smaller. you'd probably have to manufacture your own if you want them to match.

I can live with 5mm since most are using the 9mm supplied with the kit. The problem is they have to install stanchions that are wider than scale. I guess the question is how close to a museum piece do you want to achieve. I know for myself I don't know enough about this boat to truly have the skill to pass that test.With that said I still believe I can build a model that looks good, even though some things are going to be a bit out of scale. 

Posted

Mike

I agree with you since this is my first model though i would like it to be great realistically i jsut want it to look nice and be able to finish it

i only made a comment about the size to try to better understand scale and real world sizes, i wasnt being critical

as i build my Phantom im trying to picture the actual size of some of these pieces to help me learm more about model ship building,

you build is looking great

Posted (edited)

Mike

I agree with you since this is my first model though i would like it to be great realistically i jsut want it to look nice and be able to finish it

i only made a comment about the size to try to better understand scale and real world sizes, i wasnt being critical

as i build my Phantom im trying to picture the actual size of some of these pieces to help me learm more about model ship building,

you build is looking great

This model kit is suppose to convert over to a POB in the near future, no more solid hull. I imagine when that happens it will be a larger scale model. I will probably purchase the Phantom again and hopefully at that time I'll have the skill and knowledge to make a more accurate vessel. It's a learning experience that takes a life time no doubt.I didn't think you where being critical. we all struggle with the compromise between perfection and what can actually be achieved according to skill. I suspect even some of the most seasoned builders wrestle with the same issues only on a different level. In other words the perfect build is always the next one.

Edited by MikeB4
Posted

I've finally got the chain plates,deadeyes and belaying pins in place on the hull. Now the fun starts I can start building and installing the deck furniture.

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Posted

Mike, on the template making, that's exactly the same way I have always made mine too. It is always well worth the extra time it takes to make them.

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

I've soldered the legs onto the boom sheet which was quite a challenge for me since i haven't soldered in years and the parts are so small that at one point I was going to give up on it. My personal advice is that sometimes it's good to put it down and come back to it later and try again. 

Posted

Mike:

That is the right attitude to use when doing this sort of modeling. If it gets bad, just walk away and come back to it when you feel like it. Good call.

 

Russ

Posted (edited)

I soldered the legs on to the traveler or boom sheet I'm not sure which is right anyhow the solder didn't hold it came apart.Maybe I'm not using the right type of solder I don't know I tried for 3 hours last night to get it to work but it didn't. I'm at a cross road with this build.

Edited by MikeB4
Posted

this converation may be past now but when i built this kit, this is how i modified the cleats so they could be used. I filed down and added a channel so that the cleat would fit over the bulwark stanchions and not through it.

 

phantom039_zps882b0b71.jpg

 

phantom041_zps604b41b8.jpg

Posted (edited)

I definitely will need to develop a skill for soldering if I desire to be an accomplished model builder someday. With that said I did find a creative solution for the problem I was having trying to solder these tiny pieces together. Instead I cut a new piece of brass only this time I made four tabs on it and crimped the traveler to the legs.

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Edited by MikeB4
Posted

Mike, Your ship looks great. I had to make templates from the plans too for my Kate Cory but the hull came out pretty nice. Those pilot schooners have great lines. I see you are from MA. Go Bruins. :dancetl6:

Thank you, I don't know if I will ever build another solid hull but if I do all my dimensions will come from the plans and nowhere else.

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