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Posted (edited)

Hello,

  I'm a new member. First post.

  Various builds on this site have turned up countless times in my searches over the years, so I decided I should just get on-board.

  I am not familiar with actually using the site, and I have never tried a build log before, but I'll give it a shot. I have certainly benefited from seeing the process and progress of others.

 

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  My main thing is steamboats, namely paddleboats, and especially sternwheelers. Here, I'll be working on the Chaperon. I didn't get this model because it was the Chaperon, but because it is the most realistic looking, typical packet boat kit I've run across. I might even change the name. I will certainly customize it, adding my own modifications and "improvements" along the way, to make it my version of the ideal steamboat.

 

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  The first thing I came to that "needed fixing" was the flat-topped bulkheads of the hull. The main deck certainly needs to have some camber to it. And all the other decks, for that matter! This will, of course, complicate things for me later on [which I seem to be good at doing].

  So, I scanned one of the middle bulkhead pieces, and traced it in CorelDraw on my computer, adding a camber line to the top. I printed out a bunch of these templates, rubber-cemented them to the front and back of sandwiched stacks of bulkheads, then sanded along the camber line, which is only between 1/32"-1/16" lower on the edges, but should be noticeable. [You can see one side done in the photo.]

 

  Well, I'd better stop here for now, to make sure this works...

Edited by CaptainMac
My address was showing in the box photo, so wanted to crop it off.
Posted

CaptainMac,

 

I have the same kit in my stash and will follow with a lot of interests, your progress. 

Yes, the Chaperon by Model Shipways is definitely the most realistic kit proposed on the market as the Occre and other Spanish kits are offering woods which do not match what was used to build these paddle boats, in the USA.

 

There are a few excellent realizations of the  Chaperon on that forum, and I invite you to look into them for ideas and inspirations.

 

Yves

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

  Still planking the hull! Hard to tell much difference, but I've done a lot more. I'm not using a long strip all at once, but cutting segments, and staggering the joints from row to row, to look more realistic. Instead of painting, I'm planning on staining the hull to see the subtle woodgrain variations in the planks.

  The 1/8"×1/6" strips have slightly different widths and thicknesses. You're supposed to do 13 rows before switching to the 1/2" strips on the bottom. I've got 11 rows down both sides, maybe one less on the bow:

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20250619_200634.thumb.jpg.1ce292fd49d26e807e91afbc524320c6.jpg

 

  I use ammonia, like the directions said, to bend the planks:

20250619_165821.thumb.jpg.80630f0349f848baabe35ea861ce0b1f.jpg

 

-- Michael 

Posted

Welcome Aboard!  You've found the right place to interact with other avid ship modelers.  I've been researching some of the martime history of the Pacific Northwest and found that there were a number of flat bottomed stern wheelers built in the Settle area in the 19th century.  I'm looking to following along on your project.

Glad to have you aboard.

Wawona59

John

 

Next Project: Joshua Slocum's Sloop/Yawl Spray by Bluejacket Ship crafters

 

Selected "Seattle icons" future Builds

Wawona Lumber Schooner

Washington State Ferry - Kalakala

First Nations - Duwamish cedar dugout canoe

Slo-Mo-Shun IV - hydro 

Bailey Gatzert, Sternwheeler, 1890 - Built in Seattle

Posted

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Mike --

  Thanks.

  The instruction booklet is only 12 pages, and 6 pages just deal with the hull. A lot of pictures of that process, and good directions.

20250703_220753.thumb.jpg.e29eb6a22dc69fe1fb264b38f111eca4.jpg

 

  Six pages for everything else. Doesn't sound like enough, but I haven't got there yet. Small type, so it probably says more than it looks like.

  There are 5 large sheets of well-labeled/detailed plans, so, they should be easy to follow, just from the illustrations and notations for the parts.

Posted (edited)

  I finished up the small planking. The instructions said 13 rows, but mine didn't quite cover the bottom of the bow:

20250623_135746.thumb.jpg.ea82638a6d3b063fd1a199ee55b59155.jpg

 

  I added a 14th row, so under the bow they would make a better transition to the flat bottom:

20250624_095347.thumb.jpg.207ffa37fb6a7eb9f158198ec76b65ba.jpg

 

  Here's the wide bottom planks. I used them full length, since they won't show. On the sides, I used shorter strips, and staggered the joints, to be more realistic. On the bottom, I did stagger the stern-ward ends.

  [I have filled the narrow gap on the left. I am currently finishing the wide planks on the curved stern. Almost done.]

20250629_161839.thumb.jpg.479e6505943dde00614e32e9cadac951.jpg

 

-- Michael

Edited by CaptainMac

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