HMS Victory Cross-Section by RolandR - Artesania Latina - 1/72

[RolandR]

The first wood pieces of my first wooden ship are glued together and it went not bad.

I painted one thin side of the planks with black color and rounded the corners. The paint is barely visible but separates the planks enough for me. I don't know if it is intended by the manufacturer, but the individual strips were not exactly the same thickness, but I like the look for the floor boards.

 

 

 

[RolandR]

I added 2 of the riders. I did not like the looks of the individual pieces of plies showing and covered it with a 0.5mm veneer. Sanding the corners made the transition almost invisible. 

 

[RolandR]

I finished the planks and riders and added the stain. I used Occre Walnut Dye. I used the Walnut instead of Oak since I wanted to get a this part darker. With the cross section, you get the same amount of light, no matter what deck it is.

Using the dye, I learnt the first lesson. After decades of plastic models, where glue spots disappear with one or two coats of paint, my almost invisible wood glue smears showed up as lighter patches. 

 

 

On some pictures of Victory's hold, I noticed, that the same hooks, that are used for the guns, are in the hold as well to lift the barrels. A search on this website showed a lot of ways to fabricate those hooks. I tried to build it out of one wire but failed miserably. I also needed the hook bigger diameter than the ring. My hook is now build of 0.6mm for the ring (wrapped around 1mm drill bit) and 0.8mm for the hook. I soldered the 2 pieces together. Right now, I did not get the shape right and it should be 1mm smaller in length but I am able to build theses. It took me without a jig 5 minutes. With only 8 cannons and e few other places I would need hooks, it should be feasible to accomplish.

 

 

[DavidG]

Very nice hooks. 
a less convincing but faster method is to modify kit eyebolts into hooks- i do it all the time.

 

[RolandR]

David,

I tried that, too. I could not bend it twice the same way. With the two pieces, I can shorten the hook until it fits the others.

[RolandR]

Next on my list are the Victory lantern. I found 3mm flickering LEDs that don't need a circuit and are extremely cheap ($10 for 100 LEDs on Amazon.

I used thin black paper that still does not let light through and cut it out on my laser. To prepare the LED, I sanded down the dome in the front and cut off the shoulder? by the pins.

The biggest challenge is not to glue the fingers to the LED, while applying the black paper.

With one or two exception, they all will be attached to the ceiling beams and I am not worried about the top of the lantern.

 

[RolandR]

Most of the work I did, was upgrading the ceiling of the hold with additional wood pieces. There are not many pictures of the part of the ship and I used the website of Henk Ship Models, Victory build to locate the individual pieces. I was not able to verify if this is correct.

I also added 4 of my flickering LED lamps.

 

 

 

[RolandR]

I moved on to the Orlop deck and did not like the provided grates from the kit. The ones by the walls were even brass etched. I lasered a full pieces including the frame. It looks okay but after that I decided to really spent more time on the grates that look more prototypical. I checked out what is available but did not see anything I could not do with my laser myself. It took some time to get the right spacing since I had cut the deck of the orlop already and needed to fit the opening. The higher decks will much easier to make my pieces work.

 

 

I still have to adjust the height of the smaller frame pieces, so I can sand it in an arch as well. I am not good in geometry and cutting it out and measure is easier than to calculate.

 

[Russ2025]

It looks great! Geometry be damned. 
 

Russ

[RolandR]

I did not like the kit provided pump house on the orlop deck. I was checking out the Artesania Latina Victory anatomy version and with that kit you get the louvered pump house. Using the build video, I designed the building although I don't know if it is correct. Unfortunately, I could not find any pictures of the real thing and went wit AL version. Still needs some white paint. I am unsure if the white paint is also inside since AL suggest to paint it light oak.

I also need to sand it into shape or add some wood pieces to the outside posts to make up for the curved deck.

 

 

[RolandR]

I needed smaller barrels than the kit provided, which I have seen on pictures of the HMS Victory. I bought a collection of cheap hobby wood dowels and gave it a go.

With a $45 mini table saw and a $35 wood lathe, I was able to produce this one. I am still working on the right coloring and the "metal" bands are to wide for this size of barrel but for the first try, it looks promising.

 

[RolandR]

I added more cargo to the hold. I also wanted to show off my first self made ropes (slummed over the barrel and hanging next to it) although the don't look like the ones I bought from Ropes of Scale but I did not expect that anyhow. I hope, the higher I go on the cross section, the better my ropes will get. I might have to add more decks to the Victoria.

Thanks to Mahuna for selling me his vertical ropewalk.

 

 

[Russ2025]

Really enjoying your added details. It all looks great to my eye, and it inspires me to follow your lead and add a few extras of my own. Looking forward to seeing the next deck. 
 

Russ

[RolandR]

I don't know if somebody mention it before, but this is how I paint the iron bands around barrels of kit provided pieces.

 

I use regular masking tape which I cut thinner than the distance between the bands and apply it in multiple windings.

 

 

Instead of paint out of a bottle, I use an artist water-based pen. I have this one for years and it is still not dried out.

 

 

You don't have to be very careful with the pen since it will not creep underneath the tape. 

 

 

There might be some spots that I unintentionally covered up but the pen also has 2 different sizes of tips to fix that.