Duchess of Kingston 1798 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Commission Build

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 27 (10^th & 11^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 46 – Ships Wheel

My time in the shipyard is very limited this week therefore I am tackling some small tasks such as the ships wheel assembly.

 

The ships wheel is made up from 5 PE parts which were glued together, using a 1mm rod to ensure everything was aligned.

 

Next the cable drum assembly, comprising three wooden parts were glued together, once again using a 1mm rod to ensure everything was aligned.

 

I then painted the drum and ship wheel a dark walnut colour, as can be seen below.

 

 

The two end panels have nice some laser-etch lines and I decided, as this is a royal yacht, to embellish these with some paint.

 

In the photo below I have taped the two panels so the centre section can be painted royal blue and the second photo shows the end result, noting I had already added black paint the top section.

 

 

In the next set of photos more tape is used so I could add a red outline to the blue insert.

 

More tape was then added so the external edges of the panels could be painted dark walnut.

 

Test fit of the ship wheel assembly, noting the ship wheel assembly has not been glued together

 

Task 47 – Main Rail Thoughts

Before I glue the main rails in place I thought I would experiment with some different finishes.

 

This is the current natural wood finish. It looks Ok but I think it would look better if it were a bit darker in colour.

 

Gold, look nice but I am not convinced this is the best option but would fit in with the opulence of a royal yacht.

Leather, this looks OK but I am not sure this colour really complements the red and blue.

 

Dark Walnut, again looks OK but I think it is too dark.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 28 (16^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 48 – Main Rails and Gunwales

Adding the main rails has been a bit of nightmare as I made a schoolboy error by applying a coat of tung oil to the hull. This meant that when I was ready to add the main rails it was difficult to get the to hold, once dried. The rails are now in place and hopefully they will now stay in place.

 

Next the gunwales were added. They were painted black before they were fitted. Once fitted I decided to paint the upper bow and stern rail black.

 

 Photos

Current status of the build

Bow area main rails

Midships main rail

Stern area

Gunwales

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 29 (17^th - 18^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 49 – Painting the Hull

I went off the reservation with this task *** the build instructions are to leave it a plain wood finish above the water line and a painted white hull below the waterline. This is exactly what I did with my previous DOK build and it does look great.

 

However, on this build I decided to experiment with a different paint finish. I really like the Plasti-kote Red Oxide finish I have used on some previous build. I also liked having a thin white band for the waterline.

 

With the waterline drawn I added some masking tape above and below the waterline and added a white band. After a couple of coats of white paint, the tape was removed. A new thin strip of tape was then placed oved the painted waterline. I then added three coats of red oxide paint below the water line. I opted to decant the paint from the spray can and apply with a paint brush. I also added a different paint finish above the water line (leather).

 

The finished paint scheme is shown below. Whilst it may not be in keeping with how ships of this period looked I quite the colour scheme, noting it may not be to everyone’s taste. This paint scheme is probably more common for fishing boats.

 

Next task will be to add the wales.

 

[Ronald-V]

I think it's a nice color palette as a whole...it all fits together well

[Geordie Tyne]

I think that colour scheme is well thought out and applied. Some very nice warm tones at work.
 

Regards

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 30 (19^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 50 – Upper Stern Counter

Once the wales had been glued place I moved on to adding the upper stern counter pattern which was a relatively straightforward task. I did apply the red paint before this part was glued to place.

 

 

Task 51 – Test Fitting Hull PE Patterns

The main cabin decorative window comprises two PE parts. I had previously sprayed these parts with gold paint. The lower PE part window frame area then needed a red outline and window frames painted white.

 

 

Using the pin holes to correctly align these two parts (not glued for the time being) a test fit was undertaken. I was happy with how this looks.

 

 

 

I then glued the 4 off window frame PE parts to the side windows and test fitted the window surround patterns. Again, everything looks good. I will need to fill the gaps in the planking

 

 

 

Next I decided to test fit the gun port surrounds.

 

 

With these decorative patterns temporarily in place the build is starting to look like a royal ship fit for a duchess.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 31 (24^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 51 – Upper Stern Counter

Over the last few days I have been adding the various items to the upper stern counter.

 

The first task was to add the white painted window frames. Next the window surround PE part was added. This had been painted gold with a white crest.

 

The next item to fit was the 3D printed surround. The part was soaked in hot water for 15 seconds and then clamped to the stern counter for 1 minute so the bend could be added. The bent part was then dropped in cold water to cool off. The part was then painted imperial blue. Once the paint had dried the various raised shaped were painted gold. Once I was happy with the painted part it was added to the upper stern counter.

 

Next I added the various rails, which had been painted gold.

 

Finally, the final PE pattern, which had been painted white was glued beneath the upper rail.

 

As can be seen in the photo below a little bit of paint touch up work is still required.

 

Task 52 – Figurehead

The figurehead has now been painted and test fitted.

[Ronald-V]

Nice paintwork Glenn 👍

[Glenn-UK]

33 minutes ago, Ronald-V said:

Nice paintwork Glenn 👍

Thanks

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 32 (29^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 53 – Hull Decorations

I have now started to add the PE decorative patterns to the hull. I am coating each section of the hull with a thin coat of polyurethane varnish. I then wait for a few minutes to allow the varnish to get tacky before placing the PE pattern in place. Once the pattern has been positioned and being held in place by the varnish, I then apply a top coat of varnish. So far, this method seems to be working really well.

 

Photos

 

 

 

[Ronald-V]

I'm not so far of beginning to apply the decoration on the Sphinx i'm building...nice to read how you are doing it! Sounds like a stress free method, will keep this in mind. Tnx!  

[Glenn-UK]

22 minutes ago, Ronald-V said:

I'm not so far of beginning to apply the decoration on the Sphinx i'm building...nice to read how you are doing it! Sounds like a stress free method, will keep this in mind. Tnx!  

It works well, pe parts can be adjusted when first positioned and no nasty ca overspill issues

[palmerit]

2 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

I am coating each section of the hull with a thin coat of polyurethane varnish. I then wait for a few minutes to allow the varnish to get tacky before placing the PE pattern in place. Once the pattern has been positioned and being held in place by the varnish, I then apply a top coat of varnish. So far, this method seems to be working really well.

Do you think using shellac would work just as well?

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, palmerit said:

Do you think using shellac would work just as well?

Possibly, but I have no experience with shellac. My thoughts are you just need something which is clear when dry and will provide some level of adhesion when as it dries.

[palmerit]

15 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

2 hours ago, palmerit said:

Do you think using shellac would work just as well?

Possibly, but I have no experience with shellac. My thoughts are you just need something which is clear when dry and will provide some level of adhesion when as it dries.

I might experiment with some scrap pieces of PE and wood when I get back home.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 33 (07/01/26)

 

Task 54 – Bow Rails, Catheads and Decorations

Following on from my last post the remaining hull decorations were added successfully.

 

Once that was done it was time to add all remaining details to the bow area. The various rails were added along with the catheads, hawse hole bolsters & brackets and figurehead.

 

Once that was done the the various bow decorative patterns were added.

 

I then decided to add a bit more colour to the stem post by painting the area below bow rail and above the water line red.

 

Now that this work is complete, I can move on to adding the rudder.

 

Photos

The first two photos show the current build status, the Duchess is stating to look more regal, noting I do have some PE decorative crowns to add between the upper wale and gun ports

 

 

 

Now a picture show the decorative bow area head on. The lower right-hand wale fit to the stem post is not very good

 

Finally two photos showing the right and left bow area. I opted to paint the bow rails gold.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 34 (09/01/26)

 

Task 55 – Fitting The Rudder

I had built the basic  rudder assembly a few weeks ago. The first task, when fitting the rudder, was to add the rudder pintle strips along with shortened pins (simulated rivets) in the various pintle strip holes.

 

The photo below shows a test fit of the rudder, noting the pintles had not been added at this point.

Next I painted the rudder so it matched the hull colour scheme and then I drilled rudder so the pintles could be fitted.

 

I did have to slightly enlarge the rudder opening to the deck area so the pintles could be inserted into the stern post.

 

The final task was to add the pintle strips along with shortened pins to the hull. The paint on the hull strips is still wet in the photo below. I may need to add another coat or two. The hull pintle strips are incorrectly set as I mistakenly aligned then with the rudder pintle strips rather then the pintle part which is inserted in to the stern post. It is not an issue for this build but would be for someone knows how the should be aligned.

I also have added the crown decorations between the gun ports

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 35 (12/01/26)

 

Task 56 – Cabin Bulkhead Installation

The cabin bulkhead had previously been assembled and painted. It was a simply task to glue this assembled part in place.

 

With the bulkhead in place I did a test fit of the rail assembly. This will be fitted later on in the build.

 

I decided to paint the upper deck inner bulwarks red. I think this enhances the upper section. I will paint the rudder housing assembly black which will add a nice contrast, once fitted.

 

Task 57 – Hull Steps

There are 5 steps per side hull which were glued in place. I decided to paint this steps the same colour as the hull.

 

Task 58 – Channels

There are 5 channels required per side. Each channel was carefully lined up with the locating holes on the hull. I marked the channels with the position of the holes and drilled holes. These were then fitted with small 0.5mm brass pins and test fitted.

 

The front rails were then glued to the front edge of their respective channels. Once that was done the channels were painted black and then glued in place.

 

Task 59 – Spiral staircase and Domed Canopy

The domed canopy base was glued to the 3-D printed domed canopy. The assembly was then painted gold before it was glued in place.

 

The previously assembled spiral staircase was also glued in place.

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 36 (13/01/26)

 

Task 60 – Tiller Housing, Tiller and Ships Wheel

The various parts of the tiller housing were painted black. The front and two side patterns were then glued in place. Next the tiller was painted black and two 2mm single blocks were added. The tiller was then glued in place.

 

 

The tiller housing roof was then glued in place.

 

 

A length of 0.25mm natural thread was wrapped around the ships wheel drum. Once that was done the ships wheel assembly was added to the upper deck.

 

 

 

 

6 off 2mm single blocks were then seized to eyebolts. Three blocks per side, complete with eyebolts, were then threaded to the ships wheel rigging. The eyebolts were then inserted in their respective locating holes on the upper deck, and the ships wheel thread was then tensioned. The two free ends of the ships wheel rigging still needs to be belayed to their respective eyebolts.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 37 (14/01/26)

 

Task 61 – Painting and Test Fitting Deck Items

Starting with the upper deck items I gave some thought to the colour scheme

 

I painted the binnacle in a similar manner to the ships wheel. The top section and side panels were painted black. The front and rear panels were painted with red bands and blue panel infills.

 

The mizzen mast bitts were painted red.

 

The mizzen mast base and upper deck spiral staircase coaming were painted black. The decorative PE quarterdeck companion rails were painted gold,

 

These items were then test fitted, and I am happy with how they look.

 

 

 

 

Moving on to the lower deck items I decided to paint both the gallows and main mast bitts red and then added a gold finish to the top section of the gallows bitts.

 

The various coamings were painted black.

 

I painted the belfry assembly red with a gold colour top section and black for the ship’s bell head stock.

 

The bowsprit bitts were painted red.

 

The windlass bitts were painted black along with the main and fore mast bases.

 

 

I have painted the windlass a nice wooden colour, but more work is required as I need to add the black bands. I did notice that one end section of the windlass was detached when I removed the part from box. I have pinned and glued the parts together so hopefully all will be OK (right-hand end in the photo below). I also have to paint and assemble the two hand pumps.

 

 

When folding the ships stove chimney the PE part sheered along the fold line. I also managed to break the chimney coaming. I have a couple of ideas to solve this problem.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 38 (15/01/26)

 

Task 62 – Fixing Deck Items

Most of the deck items have now been fixed in place. I have managed to repair the ship’s chimney, but I will have to make a new base.

 

There is still a little bit more work to do regarding the windlass assembly as the ships bell and some PE parts still need to be added.

 

The ships wheel rigging has now been belayed and seized.

 

The ships hand pumps have been assembled.

 

The cannons have been placed on the deck, but the carriage wheels still need to be added. I am planning to rig the cannon.

 

There a few staghorn cleats, shot garlands and eyebolts to add to the inner lower deck.  Finally, the all the timberheads and the three upper deck hand rails will be added.

 

 

#

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 39 (20/01/26)

 

Task 63 – Completing The Deck Work

All the deck items have now been installed.

 

SInce my last post I have added the belay pins to the various rack, the cannons have been added along with the shot garlands. The windlass assembly has been secured in place. Eyebolts added to all the gun ports.

 

I have not added the channel deadeye strops / chain links as I normally do these when adding the shrouds so they can follow the same path.

 

I did rig one of the cannons but then decided I preferred the unrigged version.

 

I have started work the yard production and will add a post in due course.

 

Photos

Here is a selection of photos of the current build status.

Lower Deck

Upper Deck

Stern

Bow Deck Area

Cannons and shot garlands

Rear section of lower deck

Upper Deck Mizzen Bitts with belay pins

Decorative windows

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 41 (22/01/26)

 

Task 64 – Start of mast and Yard Production

I have cut all the dowels for the various yards and masts so there are ready to be shaped and have the various blocks and PE parts added.

 

I decided I would start with the bowsprit, jibboom and spritsail yard.

 

In the first picture the bowsprit and jibboom have been cut to length and tapered.

 

In the next photo the I am test fitting the bowsprit and jibboom with the bowsprit cap. All looks good.

 

In the next photo I have tapered the spritsail yard.

 

In the next photo I have added the PE parts and cleats.

 

In the next photo I have added the various blocks and footropes. The more eagle eyed reader will note that I have made an error with the footrope rigging. I will correct this mistake.

 

Finally, the spritsail yard has been painted black.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 42 (26/01/26)

 

Task 65 – Bowsprit, Jibboom and Spritsail Yard

I have completed all the work related to shaping, adding blocks, deadeyes, eyebolts, etc. to the bowsprit, jibboom and spritsail yard. I have lashed the jibboom to the bowsprit, but in the photo below the spritsail yard is only held in by a pin.

 

 

 

Task 67 – Mizzen mast and mizzen topsail mast

I have competed the shaping for both the mizzen and mizzen topsail masts, The platform has also been assembled. I still have to add all the various blocks and cleats before moving on to making the associated yards. In the photos below the topsail mast and mast cap are only dry fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 43 (28/01/26)

 

Task 67 – Mizzen Topsail Yard

Over the last few days, I have been making the three mizzen mast yards. I started with the topsail yard, as that was the easiest one make. I was happy with how it was looked however I brushed too much diluted wood glue when I was shaping footrope.

 

Task 68 – Mizzen Crossjack Yard

Once the crossjack yard dowel had been tapered using my mini lathe, I added the cleats and footrope stirrups.

 

I am having to be selective with the 3mm kit supplied blocks as the rigging holes are either too close to an outer edge or they have no hole at all.

 

I am using my normal method for seizing the blocks. With the block held in my quad hands some black thread is wrapped around it, as shown below. The seizing is added using alternating cross over knots, 6 on the bottom and 6 on the top. The completed block is then added to the yard.

 

 

 

When adding the footrope, I start by making a loop on one end of the thread. The loop is then seized using alternating cross over knots, 4 on the bottom and 4 on the top. The loop is then position on the yard and the loop is then closed up.

 

 

Once the footropes have been threaded through the stirrups, another loop is formed and seized.

 

 

 

The remaining blocks are then added to the ends of the crossjack yard. The yard is then coated with a thin coat of polyurethane varnish before it is painted black.

 

 

Task 69 – Lateen Yard

Once the lateen yard had been shaped and the cleats added it was time to add the various blocks. I thought I would detail the method I used to add two flying leads with blocks.

 

I start by wrapping a thread around a block witch is secured with a simple crossover knot. A length of natural thread is added before the cross over knot is fully tightened.

 

Another crossover knot is then made and a length of black thread added before the knot is fully tightened.  A touch of ca is applied to the knot, and the excess thread is trimmed. The threaded black thread is then held in the quadhands so it can be seized using alternative cross over knots, 6 on the bottom and 6 on the top.

 

The block is then inverted in the quadhands so the natural thread can be seized.

 

The two flying leads are then added to the lateen yard.

 

After the lateen yard has been given a coat of polyurethane varnish, it is painted black

 

All three yards are shown below.

Edited Wednesday at 09:41 PM by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 44 (31/01/26)

 

Task 70 – Main Mast, Main Topsail and Main Topgallant Mast

I have competed the shaping of the three main masts. The various wooldings have been added to the main mast. In the photos below the topsail and topgallant masts are only dry fitted.

 

Now some close up of the main mast

 

 

 

Task 72– Fore Mast

I have made the fore main mast, but there is still work required.

 

Task 73– Fore Topsail Mast

I started work on shaping this mast by taping the conical section, as can be seen below. I then used my mini lathe to taper the lower section, as per the plan sheet requirements

 

The upper part of this mast requires a square section. I start this process by marking the square shape on the end of the dowel. This provides me with a guide.

 

Using a combination of a craft knife and a 100-grit sanding stick the first two flat ends are created, as shown below.

 

The process is then repeated on the other two sides to  complete making the square. I then used a craft knife followed by rotating the dowel in some sandpaper to shape the conical section.

 

Task 74– Fore Topgallant Mast

I started work on shaping this mast by taping the conical section, as can be seen below

 

I then used my mini lathe to taper the lower section, as per the plan sheet requirements. The photos show the before and then the after.

 

 

I used a craft knife followed by rotating the dowel in some sandpaper to shape the conical section. In the photo below I am test fitting the platform cap and mast top.

 

And now a photo showing the fore mast, topsail and topgallant mast assembly (dry fitted).

 

A photo of the Duchess with all the masts dry fitted. I will now spend a few days making the main, topsail and topgallant masts for the main and fore masts.

[Knocklouder]

Excellent work,   

Bob  M.

[Glenn-UK]

17 minutes ago, Knocklouder said:

Excellent work,   

Bob  M.

Thanks Bob

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log – Post 45 (01/02/26)

 

Task 75– Fore Mast Woolding

The following a description of how I added the woodlings to the fore mast.

 

Tape is used to make start point of bottom edge of each woolding.

 

After cutting a length of black thread a loop is formed held in place us some tape, as shown in the next photo.

 

The long end of the thread is then wrapped around the mast 6 times. The long end is then fed through the loop. The other end of the woolding thread is then pulled to shorten the loop so that is sits level with the top edge and holds the woolding in place.

 

The excess thread is then trimmed and the tape is removed. The finished woolding is shown in the photo below and looks OK.

 

The above process is repeated so all the woolding are added. The completed mast is shown below.