Kenneth Powell Posted November 26, 2013 Share #1 Posted November 26, 2013 Has anyone heard of or knows where I can get a wood glue that dries dark brown or black? I would like to use it to glue the deck planks and simulate caulking on my Rattlesnake. Thanks - Kenneth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted November 26, 2013 Share #2 Posted November 26, 2013 I use Titebond II Dark Wood Glue, for just about any wooden parts. It has a great tack, will hold under fingure presure and sets up in a few minutes, allowing little time for adjustments and perminate clamping. In regard to deck planking; I have been considering beveling the plank sides to say 45 degrees and attaching to the deck, covering with a couple of coats of varnish, then spreading out this glue to dry in the bevels, then scraping to final shape. I have not tried this yet, but I cut my own planking by hand and to scrape a bevel would not be that much more trouble. Good luck Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMBROOK Posted November 27, 2013 Share #3 Posted November 27, 2013 You can always mix acrylic paint with the glue,I know someone who has done this. Kind Regards Nigel Quote Currently working on Royal Caroline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMBROOK Posted November 27, 2013 Share #4 Posted November 27, 2013 I do agree with Brian,I wouldn't do it unless you can afford to remove quite a bit of material afterwards. Kind Regards Nigel Quote Currently working on Royal Caroline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j21896 Posted November 27, 2013 Share #5 Posted November 27, 2013 For a great tutorial on making your own dark glue, check out post # 201, on page 14 of EdT's Young America build here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/page-14 Cheers, Robert Quote Current Build: HMS Mars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackoWolf Posted November 27, 2013 Share #6 Posted November 27, 2013 I know "Woodcraft" sells a tint of different colors for wood puddy, maybe that could also be use. You would need to look at the soecs of it to find more detail about the stuff. Quote Wacko Joe Go MSW :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Powell Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted November 27, 2013 Thanks Everyone for you your responses! Very helpful. I will try the pigment on EdT's log that j21896 listed. Will let you know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted November 28, 2013 Share #8 Posted November 28, 2013 Hi Cap, I am not familuar witht he clue you mentioned. But the III goes on a light tan and drys a little darker. I noticed when making up the frames, when it puddles is can be real dark. I have read adverrtisements for dark CA glue, but don't remember where...you could Google it. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jud Posted November 28, 2013 Share #9 Posted November 28, 2013 Larry; Assume the resulting V would be outboard. The spacing would only be uniform on flat areas of the hull, a curve either way would result in opening or closing the open V which would appear as uneven spacing of the planking. Could take time to vary your open V but I doubt it would ever look good. jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted November 29, 2013 Share #10 Posted November 29, 2013 Jud, What I had in mind was to put a slight bevel on the outbound sides of the plank, maybe 1/4 the thickness of the plank. Lay the pland as you would any other, add a couple of coats of varnish to seal the plank, then flood with the dark glue. Scrape to surface. I see it as planking like any other.. Am I missing something..... Thanks,"Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jud Posted November 29, 2013 Share #11 Posted November 29, 2013 (edited) Those filled V's between planks would provide a uniform and consistent result on a flat surface. With a concave or convex surface, the width of the resulting fill area would become wider or narrower dependent on the rate of change along the curved parts of the hull you are planking. You may be able to minimize that by beveling the 4 external right angles of the plank, looking at an end view each side would look like a flat ended point. With each edge being an inverted V the distortion should be minimal, depending on how the flat point of the V between planks lined up. From what I have seen in build logs it seems that the best way to obtain matching and uniform planking is to force a match between planks by sanding or other controlled wood removal method, testing often as you go. Someone with more experience with planking needs to jump in here. jud Edited November 29, 2013 by jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted November 29, 2013 Share #12 Posted November 29, 2013 I have been mixing black ink into the Lepages Carpenters glue with no problems noted over a couple of years so far. Michael mtaylor, JesseLee, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted November 30, 2013 Share #13 Posted November 30, 2013 Jud.. I have over 30 years experience building model ships...... What would you like to know??? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jud Posted December 1, 2013 Share #14 Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Tone and wrong assumption. I apologize. jud Edited December 1, 2013 by jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted December 1, 2013 Share #15 Posted December 1, 2013 My origional comments were dealing with planking on a deck; not the hull. However, on any non=flat surface the sides of the plank would be beveled to the ajoining pland so that the join is purpendicular at the point of the join; like during frame construction. Otherwise, I still not following and have no interest except for deck planking and exploring a new method of doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFrankCPA Posted December 1, 2013 Share #16 Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Thanks Jud... Now can we be modler friends....I would like that Thanks, Larry Edited December 1, 2013 by LFrankCPA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jud Posted December 1, 2013 Share #17 Posted December 1, 2013 Sure. jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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