Cutty Sark by coffeebeans - Artesania Latina - scale 1:84

[ARB]

Hi Luca,

I like this model, but there is something strange. I have the same model from AL, and I was following you, but when you inserted a copy of one the pages from the instructions I realized that they were different than mines, also some numbers do not match. I know there was a change made by AL 3/4 years ago. when did you get your model? I want to know if this is the new or the old Kit

Thanks

Alberto

[coffeebeans]

gday alberto

 

my instructions say ©2009 but the front of the box has ©2013 on it.

sorry for the halt in the log also, its been a bit too hot here in australia to keep building after work...

planning on getting the decks sorted this weekend.

 

Thanks

Luca 

[coffeebeans]

Quick update on some work done over the week.

 

Filling the hull, managed to get a good angle on the keel with lots of sanding and some filler

 

also early deck progress.

Either i have misplaced the 1x4x500 walnut strips supplied in box, or they were just left out but

luckily i had had some 1x5x500 walnut strips i got online to use as the waterway border, it narrows the waterway a bit but it will do the job.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2014 by Luca_B

[coffeebeans]

bit of a lapse in my posts due to a big week at work but finally got the deck down!

this was my first attempt at "jogging" the timber also the 52413 spacing.

the final product turned out pretty good, the jogging was fun fitting it in place, but some of my spacing did get a bit wayward :S not too noticeable seeing its only really on two lines and will mostly be hidden with the wardroom.

 

Also a question about peoples preferences on deck sealing, swaying towards just a satin coat as is but i have heard wax could also be the way to go, opinions?  

 

[coffeebeans]

Hi all, had a little break from building, but back in action now, also taking some advice from nenad to slow down my work and not rush it which has id say amplified my enjoyment of the hobby.

 

To start off again i attached the bulwark 'strengtheners' and fitted the forcastle deck trimmings.

The bending of the extreme curvature needed for the trim was a bit of a pain, but with a couple attempts of soaking and heat bending it turned out pretty well.

 

early stages of the trim

 

All sanded 

 

CLAMPS!!!

 

also since last post finished the deck fully

 

On to the bulwarks and stanchions.

the marking out is explained fairly crudely, im thinking something must be lost in translation.

with no starting point indicated in the instructions, i squared from the front of the bow hatchway and marked out 19mm spacings on some masking tape lining the waterways.

also no angle or distance from inside of bulwark given for the stanchions so im doing just what looks right.

 

now for making the stanchions and 'special' stanchions themselves, i have made a jig ito hold the brass for soldering and hopefuly it will give me a pretty uniform result.

heres a test one i made and filed back, pretty happy with the result, only 51 more to go :S

(this is still long and needs to be trimed also)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 1, 2014 by Luca_B

[olliechristo]

That is looking great mate.. The trims look real sweet.. Slow is the way to go. It's hard when you're excited though.. Ollie

[NenadM]

Nice soldering Luca. Do you plane rings on stanchions?

[coffeebeans]

thanks Ollie and Nenad.

Yeah im trying a few different ways to make rings small enough but have a strong enough hold on the solder.

I've found wrapping some 0.5mm around a drawing pin gave a good sized ring, big enough to work with, small enough to not look over-sized.

Its all a bit fidely but i think putting in the time will pay off.

Also doing a few cleat ones as well, but not entirely sure where the bent stanchions are exactly located.

In the book by c. Nepean Longridge They are described as "On the fore side of the after mooring port, and on the after side of the fore mooring port".

im thinking it might be the "oval shaped portholes" that they have said to drill in the bulwarks near the poop and the forecastle, 

 

Here is a pic of some test ringed and cleat stanchions

Edited March 2, 2014 by Luca_B

[NenadM]

Luca

 

find in my topic post #620 where you can download part of Campbell plan with stanchions. Every second has ring

[coffeebeans]

yeah by the looks of that i might just use plain stanchions near the mooring ports, from what ive read no where indicates where the double ringed or the 2 cleated stanchions are located.

a bit more research is needed before i go too far i think

[NenadM]

I am afraid you can not find absolute truth ( just like colour of her deck and waterway).

 

CS had been recovered many times, an on that details maybe is/was difference.

 

Ask Lou, he did great research about CS

 

What tool do you use for solder works ?

Edited March 3, 2014 by Nenad M

[Lou van Wijhe]

Also doing a few cleat ones as well, but not entirely sure where the bent stanchions are exactly located.

In the book by c. Nepean Longridge They are described as "On the fore side of the after mooring port, and on the after side of the fore mooring port".

im thinking it might be the "oval shaped portholes" that they have said to drill in the bulwarks near the poop and the forecastle,

 

Luca,

 

On the fore side of the after mooring port is indeed one stanchion, port and starboard, that is bent backwards and has no horizontal spur:

 

These bent stanchions are formed this way to give a clear run for the mooring cable to the bollards:

 

However, I cannot remember having seen a similar arrangement on the after side of the fore mooring ports and in fact there isn't such a setup at this moment:

 

As Nenad said, there may have been changes over time. When Longridge inspected the ship in the nineteen thirties, the palms of the deadeye shanks were f.i. riveted to the bulwark plating. This must have been a repair job because normally they should have been riveted to the sheer strake, which is a safer fixture but the sheer strake may not have been accessible because it was covered in cement at that time.

 

Lou

Edited March 3, 2014 by Lou van Wijhe

[rfolsom]

Great work on the stanchions,  I opted not to put in the horizontal crossmember;   Yours look great!

 

~Bob

[coffeebeans]

I am afraid you can not find absolute truth ( just like colour of her deck and waterway).

 

CS had been recovered many times, an on that details maybe is/was difference.

 

Ask Lou, he did great research about CS

 

What tool do you use for solder works ?

first off i tried just an ordinary soldering iron but it wasnt as accurate as i wanted so i went out and bought a mini blowtorch kit which comes with soldering tips also, but i just use the naked flame.

still a bit new to soldering so advice would be awesome.

 

here are some pics of the torch

[coffeebeans]

Thanks Bob, I have done a bit of electrical soldering before but never anything like this, its a bit of a task but hopefully they turn out alright.

I have also been watching your log and tossing up whether or not i should have a go at those freeing port covers, might have to add another couple weeks to the build :S 

[coffeebeans]

thanks Lou, just saved me half an hour scouring the web may i ask where you find these item specific pictures, cant seem to find them anywhere or just searching for the wrong things :s

 

(EDIT)- i just remembered Bugra linked me to your construction pages, very informative thanks!.

Edited March 5, 2014 by Luca_B

[NenadM]

First soldering tip : Do not work without shoes clothes and safe glasses !!!!!! On photos I see you do not have shoes on legs !!!! Keep yourself !!!

 

Second : will follow when I could be able to learn it one day

 

Keep good work

 

Nenad

[coffeebeans]

small update, just received some of my photo etched copper plating sheets with more on back order.

i am really happy with the way they look compared to my other option, also using it in strips rather than one by one will be handy  only problem is the scale isnt 100% but not too worried

here are the two options next to each other, wasn't too keen on the over exaggerated nails on the individual plates

 

 

 

[NenadM]

Hard decision in front of you - nails or not, and how much and where

[Lou van Wijhe]

thanks Lou, just saved me half an hour scouring the web may i ask where you find these item specific pictures, cant seem to find them anywhere or just searching for the wrong things :s

 

Luca,

 

The 2 b/w pictures are from a series I uploaded to Microsoft's OneDrive. The colour picture is made and sent to me by the ship's curator. I found another one, also by her, that shows why there might be no bent stanchion after the fore mooring port, i.e. there seems to be a clear run from the mooring port, under the stanchion to the bollards:

 

 

Of course, there hasn't been a mooring cable on the ship since the nineteen fifties, so there may have been a bent stanchion after the fore mooring port as well, as described by Longridge, that was later replaced by a standard one. But do as you like, it's your ship!

 

Lou

Edited March 6, 2014 by Lou van Wijhe

[coffeebeans]

FINALLY SOME PROGRESS!!!

just finished the stanchions, and opted just for the alternating ringed and standard stanchions.

Pretty happy with the result but some touch ups are defiantly needed.

Now onto the Gunwale covers, trimmings and bumper, and eventually painting and coppering.

Also here was my production line for the stanchions

started with cutting brass to 'close enough' lengths and placing them,flux and a small bit of solder into groves set for the stanchion angle

after hitting it with the torch

ready for paint

After a metal primer and 3 coats of gloss acrylic

[aliluke]

Hi Luca

Just found your log - very, very nice work, especially on the stanchions.

I'm just getting to the end of coppering with the Amati plates on HMS Fly. They are very nice although I have nothing to compare them with. I'm sure you have picked up that the sheets are different for the port and starboard. I also find overlapping the plates vertically - in clinker fashion - is the best (only?) way to get the plates to fit the curvature of the hull. I hardly ever lay them in full strips as they simply can't curve if laid like this. The longest strip would be about 5 tiles before it is forced off line. Cutty Sark will be different though with such a long straight hull. Have a look at my log for a copper ageing accelerant if you are interested in going that way. My experiments with this aren't finished yet and a few here are still laughing about it... 

 

I will look forward to seeing your coppering - I find it very difficult and with only one strip left to do, I'm, soon, happy to see it behind me...

 

Cheers

Alistair

[NenadM]

just exelent

[coffeebeans]

Hi Luca

Just found your log - very, very nice work, especially on the stanchions.

I'm just getting to the end of coppering with the Amati plates on HMS Fly. They are very nice although I have nothing to compare them with. I'm sure you have picked up that the sheets are different for the port and starboard. I also find overlapping the plates vertically - in clinker fashion - is the best (only?) way to get the plates to fit the curvature of the hull. I hardly ever lay them in full strips as they simply can't curve if laid like this. The longest strip would be about 5 tiles before it is forced off line. Cutty Sark will be different though with such a long straight hull. Have a look at my log for a copper ageing accelerant if you are interested in going that way. My experiments with this aren't finished yet and a few here are still laughing about it... 

 

I will look forward to seeing your coppering - I find it very difficult and with only one strip left to do, I'm, soon, happy to see it behind me...

 

Cheers

Alistair

yeah i am a bit unsure if i will age it or have it all shiny and new,

Haha and i think ill give urine a miss.

But i am keen to see various results of aging methods and might make my decision then.

Also i am to determine and label which are the port and starboard sheets, should only take a google search

Might i add very nice build you have there, i feel i have to be a lot neater in what i do looking at logs like that.

i wish i could stop getting frustrated at being on a task so long, and start rushing towards the end.

i guess it will come in time but from what i have heard about coppering that wont be any time soon...

[coffeebeans]

Hard decision in front of you - nails or not, and how much and where

Sorry i didnt see your post before Nenad, i got these Amati photo etched sheets shipped from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/ for about $31(USD) for 518 tiles (port and starboard sheets), they were the closest to my scale in that style that i like more so than the single tile, 

I dont think anywhere stocked them here in Australia, so i had to pay that bit extra for postage but i reckon it will be worth it

Edited March 15, 2014 by Luca_B

[coffeebeans]

Straight into the gunwale covers, using provided 'sapeli' timber i soaked the strips in water for about an hour before clamping into place

[NenadM]

Realy like your work. Keep on

[coffeebeans]

While glue is drying on the gunwales, i thought i might start on some of the deck hardware, but was instantly halted.

first on the list was the windlass.

the materials provided in the kit were ok but i wanted to get it a bit more realistic.

 

this is what would have been if i followed the plans.

The toothed wheel, brakes and spacers were alright, just the drums were off as shown in the pictures

from the rebuild

and from Lou's Onedrive page

 

to start i took a piece of spare dowel and attached strips of 2x1 evenly around it.

then cut to length and just a small square was glued to the ends which would later be carved to shape.

here is the comparison to the original drum

last of all everything got a coat of primer and matt black, then everything was assembled on a Ø2mm axle

 

Edited March 17, 2014 by Luca_B

[olliechristo]

Very nice mate. Your really stepping it up! She's Gonna be great.. Ollie

[Sailor1234567890]

Agreed. She'll be sweet. Looking good.