Echo by alangr4 - cross-section - in memory of Eli (31.1.14-3.2.14)

[Trussben]

Well done Allan,

 

Getting used to using the Brynes takes some time but because it's so well made it's is worth the investment as it's so repeatable and accurate.

 

Have you bought one of Jim's disc sanders yet? It's just as good as the saw and makes making the chocks for the frames much easier IMO as well as many other parts when scratch building full framed models.

 

Ben

[alangr4]

Thanks Ben. I haven't got either the disc sander or the plank planer. Wondering which one I would get more use out of.

I had been looking at a couple of larger commercial models marketed here in Oz but Jim's stuff is pretty special.

Alan

 

Edited May 19, 2014 by alangr4

[alangr4]

 

Thanks Druxey

 

In the cold light of day, I am not totally happy with the depths of my cuts with the Byrnes. A smidgin deeper than I should have gone.

 

Given I still have a bit of wood left I'll have a third attempt.

 

Do you, Ben, Greg, Rusty or anybody else reading this log have a view on the pros and cons of Jim's disc sander and thickness sander? As I move rapidly to the dark side (as Rusty would say) is it a question of either or both?

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[gjdale]

Hi Alan,

 

I have both of these, as well as the saw. They do completely different jobs. I would say without a doubt that I would place the disc sander ahead in terms of versatility and overall use. The thickness sander will come into its own if you plan on milling your own timber. If you buy your timber already thicknessed, then it has less of an impact.

 

As we are both in Canberra, if you'd like to come over and play with both you'd be most welcome. Then you can make an informed decision after using both machines. Just drop me a PM if you'd like to come play.

[dvm27]

I agree with Grant. disc sander comes first then thickness sander. But it's a close call...

 

Always do test cuts with the Byrnes saw first on scrap wood. Once you've reached the correct height do all your milling at the same time. It's difficult to repeat setups. 

[Trussben]

Have to agree that if there was one that I would say get first it would be the disc sander, its a beautiful machine ( not affiliated with Jim - just a happy customer ). Then get Thickness sander when you need to start milling scale lumber.

 

I'd accept Grants offer of a trial quick smart, you get to play with both and see a beautiful model of the Victory at the same time.

 

ben

[alangr4]

 

Thanks for all the feedback on the disc sander vis a vis the thickness sander. V much appreciated.

 

I shall start saving up my shekels. 

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[alangr4]

 

Took a second crack at the rising wood on the Byrnes. A much better effort. 

 

As Greg says: testing on scrap to get the depth right is the secret.

 

Photo covers the three attempts.

 

 

Will run with the top effort.

 

Cheers

 

 

Alan

[dvm27]

By George I think you've got it!

[Trussben]

Very Nicely done Alan, you will be raising frames in no time!

 

ben

[dgbot]

Same as above. However always be careful. You do not want any booboos.

David B

[druxey]

David B: there are always boo-boos when building a model. The trick is figuring out how to recover from them so that nobody can tell!

[dgbot]

How true how true

David B

[dgbot]

How true how true

David B

[alangr4]

 

Thanks Gentlemen for your comments.

 

Druxey/David B: agree wholeheartedly.

 

Unfortunately I haven't figured out a way yet of covering up the booboos without at least 10,000 members watching.

 

Doesn't say I'm not working on a solution for this.

 

- The edit tool is quite nice on this web site!!!

 

On to raising the frames.

 

Thanks again

 

Alan

[alangr4]

 

Well, the rising wood was attached last night to the keel and left overnight to cure.

 

I am comfortable with the result although the acid test will be the MSW community's tick of approval or not. The isoprol stands at the ready just in case the collective thumbs turn down!

 

Will look to drill out the bolt holes later today and start the hunt for a suitable block of 12x12 for the building board.

 

 

 

 

As we move to the next stage of the build, namely the frames, realise now the importance of securing the disc sander. For the moment though will take a leaf out of David Antscherl's wonderful TFFM Vol 1 book and look to create a series of anchored sanding blocks.

 

Cheers for now.

 

Alan

 

[alangr4]

 

Many thanks for the thumbs up.

 

I went out today and bought the baseboard for the next stage of construction and will start working on the jig shortly.

 

Have wondered whether to also adopt EdT's Rolls Royce jig utilising the Rockler T track system - any thoughts anyone?

 

Meanwhile the bolt holes have been drilled out and tapped.  Hmmmmmm! 

 

A smidgin off on the right.

 

 

Lesson 2: Don't do this at night! Idiot!!

 

Anyhow if the collective give this a 5 /10  I shall continue.

 

Jig and setting up the base board tomorrow.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Alan

 

 

 

[dvm27]

No worries, Alan. Just be sure to offset the keel from the center line by a smidge so it sit's dead center. Scribe a line down the middle of your building board, set the keel on it so that the fore and aft ends are dead center then place marks in the holes.

 

Ed T's jig is fabulous but overkill for a small section such as this.

[Trussben]

Hi Allan,

 

Greg gave you perfect advice regarding the offset hole.

 

Would have to agree as well that the EdT board is a bit OTT for a small cross section, but if you want to go down that road I can't see any downside to it.

 

Ben

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Please, as a grandfather myself, let me add my condolences to the others.  Even with my own grandchildren, I've been lucky and can't really conceive of the pain of this loss.

 

I've been "lurking" in the wings since the beginning (but as a brand new shipbuilder, I can add little to the conversation), but I do have a couple of questions if I may.

 

1.  What does the phrase "rising wood" mean?

 

2.  Is their a link/location that I could see this  "EdT's Rolls Royce jig utilising the Rockler T track system"

[alangr4]

Hi Pops

 

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind thoughts.

 

I am a bit of a "newbie" in this space as well. Being labelled a "lurker" forced me to bite the bullet and become a member and I haven't looked back. Great fun and every day I learn something new.

 

The term rising wood refers to heavy oak timbers that sat on top of the keel and supported the hull frames.

 

It is the notched timber that I had three or four attempts at before I was comfortable. You can see the pics above.

 

EdT refers to a wonderful modeller who has several logs on this site. His current log is on a clipper called Young America and is a terrific log to learn from. Equally, his other logs covering Naiad and Victory are also still available to look at on this site. He has also written two wonderful books called the Naiad Frigate Volumes 1 and 2 which are available through Seawatch Books. I usually dial in to Ed's logs at least once per day. If you use the search button and dial in EdT details of his logs will come up.

 

In building the Naiad, Ed invested in a rail system which he bought from Rockler a US online company to build a jig for the construction of Naiad. It helped him in a variety of ways including taking measurements inside the hull. He is also using this system in his current build of Young America.

 

I have bought elements of this system but the freight costs to Australia are horrendous. The freight costs are several times the cost of the goods. I had wondered whether this might assist in this particular build but as Greg and Ben correctly point out it is probably overkill. 

 

Greg and Ben are also wonderful modellers. Greg is the gentleman who came up with the idea of this cross section and is very generous with his time in assisting me with my build. The cross section is available through the Admiralty Models web site and there is heaps of information there as well of pics of the finished product. For me it is proving a "gentle" introduction to the world of scratch building and unfortunately has got me absolutely hooked on scratch building in the future.

 

Ben has gone before me with this particular build and has overcome all the hurdles that currently confront me. He is also very generous with his time and advice. He has further scratch builds underway which are coming together wonderfully and you can see his log on the site.

 

Good luck with your build of the Long Boat. I will watch your progress with interest.

 

Thank you again for your kind thoughts and enjoy this site. It is fantastic.

 

Regards

 

 

Alan

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2014 by alangr4

[gjdale]

Hi Alan,

 

While EdT's setup may be OTT for this build, I just noticed your comment about the cost of importing the Rockler T-Track system. I know next to nothing about this topic, but did notice that Carbatec here in Australia stocks the Rockler system. They also have a Veritas system that might be similar. Could be worth checking out for the future.

[alangr4]

Thanks Grant. I was in Fyshwick today at Total Tools. Drew a blank on Rockler but the store is worth checking out.

 

Alan

[gjdale]

That sounds like it could be an expensive visit Alan "No darling, I'm just going to look!"

[alangr4]

Spot on Grant. The Admiral took my wallet away before I left the car.

 

Just checked out Carbatec.. Great lead. System is a fraction of the price to ordering from US.

 

Now if I could only work out where she hid the wallet!

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[gjdale]

I can see and hear it now Alan. "Step away from the tool store Sir!" "I said step away from the tool store!" "Step away from the tool store and no one gets hurt!"

[Trussben]

Hi Alan,

 

On the subject of the rockler system, there are many manufactures of T Tracks out there, I'm sure somebody in OZ is making them for woodworkers. Do you have a woodworkers/carpenters store nearby or one that operates in OZ online? Most should carry T Tracks without the need for the shipping costs.

 

Ben

[alangr4]

Hi Ben

 

Thanks for your post.

 

I have been around most/all the stores for quite a while and was getting blank looks or worse from the attendants. Grant's steer with Carbatec looks like it is the go although on their site they don't list the tracks by themselves just the kit but I'll call them next week.

 

There is no great urgency but I am gearing up to follow you with a full build of a Swan in the not so distant future. It is a pretty crowded/popular build scene - a credit to David and Greg. I recall seeing somewhere on the site a list of who is building what in the swan domain and there have been quite a few new entrants since.

 

Been trawling through NMM checking out the plans.

 

Hope you don't mind me following in your footsteps and about 25 others.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[alangr4]

Ben

I should preface my last remark about next build inasmuch as I am keeping a weather eye on Seawatch books for David Antscherl's next magnum opus which I understand will look at an 18th century fireship. If it is anything like his previous publications this might be the go for next build?

Aside from earlier mover advantage, this sounds like the perfect build for me.

If I stuff up, I could always have a reenactment of the siege of Cadiz in the bath and set fire to it.

Hmmmm the more I think about it ???

Cheers

Alan

 

Edited May 31, 2014 by alangr4

[alangr4]

 

Found a nice piece of red oak and will use this for the building board.

 

The frame plan has been glued down and I just have to get a couple of anchor screws to lock the keel on to the board.

 

Pinched from my eldest son (Alex) some suitable illustrator board for the jig and will cut this out and glue up tomorrow.

 

 

Looking forward to the next stage.

 

cheers

 

 

Alan