drtrap Posted June 26, 2014 Author #451 Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) Jason, Robert, thank you both of you! Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted June 27, 2014 Author #452 Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) Now, I'm about to start the assembly & shaping of the main mast and I know what to do to do it better. First thing in my opinion is to mark and paint the yellow to black border below the bibbs and second to drill and open at hte same level the cleats holes. Edited September 7, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted June 27, 2014 Author #454 Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) Fore lower mast top, almost ready... I've used my dremmel to sand down and fit the vertical 1,5X1,5 rail to the small top mast holes... Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios MEDDO 1 Quote
drtrap Posted June 27, 2014 Author #455 Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) Following the manual instructions the week before I cut and glued Nr 31 walnut parts for the foremast cheeks... The right was to cut and glue Nr 32 Another wrong from the manual writter propably due to a beer's complication... The only solution for the main mast was to elongate parts Nr 32 (foremast) and simulate Nr 31 (main mast) cheeks. Edited June 28, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted June 27, 2014 Author #456 Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) Dry fitting of the fore and main lower masts.... Edited September 7, 2014 by Stergios Griffon and Aussie048 2 Quote
drtrap Posted June 27, 2014 Author #457 Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) This is a critical step. I'm trying to establish the right (parallel to the water) orientation of the lower top mast. I need your comment, what's the best choice: sanding with a file the cheeks and bibbs or placing a wedge up there between the walnut parts? Edited September 7, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048 1 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted June 27, 2014 #458 Posted June 27, 2014 I filed to the correct angle rather than adding material. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
jim_smits Posted July 3, 2014 #459 Posted July 3, 2014 Ditto Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
drtrap Posted July 26, 2014 Author #460 Posted July 26, 2014 I've uploaded some pics showing my little progress of these days... The mainmast has a tilting tendency to the right, so I must find a mild way to restore this fault. Quote
drtrap Posted July 26, 2014 Author #461 Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) These side views showing the almost vertical and slightly posterior tilting of the lower-masts... I consider as acceptable this tilting all I need is to have the gunwale-mast top parallell to the water... Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048 and egkb 2 Quote
drtrap Posted July 26, 2014 Author #462 Posted July 26, 2014 And the latest pics Thank you Aussie048, mort stoll and egkb 3 Quote
drtrap Posted July 30, 2014 Author #463 Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) Hi snake-mates, hope to find you home... Could you please help me: this is the front or the rear side of the mizzen-mast crosstrees/tressletree complex? Thank you in advance! Stergios Edited July 30, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048 1 Quote
drtrap Posted July 30, 2014 Author #464 Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) ...well, following Jason's and Jim's log, I see it is the front view... Edited July 30, 2014 by Stergios Quote
mort stoll Posted July 31, 2014 #465 Posted July 31, 2014 I agree. Mort drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 4, 2014 Author #466 Posted August 4, 2014 (edited) In the middle of the summer a point for debating...: to glue or to not glue to the deck the lower parts (lower-mast) of the fore- main- and mizzen-masts? I've prepared and painted the lower parts of the masts as appropriate but I do'nt feel so sure about how to proceed.... What's the best next step? Gluing the lower masts to the deck, adding & gluing the upper parts to the lower parts of the masts or starting the shrouds bilaterally without gluing the masts on the deck? If you're there, away from the beach, I'm waiting your experienced opinion/recommendations. Thanks a lot! Stergios Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios Quote
mort stoll Posted August 5, 2014 #467 Posted August 5, 2014 I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them. On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail - the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts. I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays. There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time. The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down. Hope this helps, Mort drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 5, 2014 Author #468 Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them. On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail - the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts. I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays. There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time. The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down. Hope this helps, Mort Hi Mort and thank you so much. I think I need to take my time to deal with all those ...sticks and spaghetti!! For the mo I feel more safe to attach first the lower parts on the deck, but we'll see, I'm taking seriously on my mind your reffering recommendation. Thank you again!! Stergios Edited August 5, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted August 5, 2014 Author #469 Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them. On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail - the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts. I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays. There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time. The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down. Hope this helps, Mort Hi again Mort could you please inform me what;s exactly "Lees, Pattersson and Lever" ?? A reffering rigging textbook or something related? I'm in complete darkness about this.... Thank you in advance. Edited August 5, 2014 by Stergios Quote
mort stoll Posted August 6, 2014 #470 Posted August 6, 2014 Hi Stergios, There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will. Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor" Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models" Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" Take your time and enjoy the rigging process. I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful. Mort drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 6, 2014 Author #471 Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Hi Stergios, There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will. Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor" Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models" Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" Take your time and enjoy the rigging process. I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful. Mort Right, I've "Rigging period ships models" on my desk but I did/nt know the writter.... Thanks a lot. Cheers Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios Quote
mort stoll Posted August 7, 2014 #472 Posted August 7, 2014 My pleasure my friend. Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 8, 2014 Author #473 Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks again Mort. The lower parts of the fore-, main- and mizzen mast are ready. I'll shape the other 2/3 parts and following the literature and your advices, I'll see. For the mo I'm leaving for the greek islands for some days.... Cheers!! Edited August 8, 2014 by Stergios egkb and mort stoll 2 Quote
mort stoll Posted August 8, 2014 #474 Posted August 8, 2014 Enjoy your vacation. drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 22, 2014 Author #475 Posted August 22, 2014 Hi everybody, I'm back again. The most difficult point at this stage is to shape and align both the rectangular edges of the same mast part at the same plane/axis... Quote
drtrap Posted August 22, 2014 Author #476 Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Next stop: trying to chequ the alignment of the midle (top mast dowel) and the lower part of the foremast. The most difficult point of this procedure is to find the right height to open the hole and pass the hinge to stop the middle part on the gunwale (i prefer to use a 2mm toothpick vs the 1,5 mm walnut strip). All the parts are dry fitted, so isn;nt so easy to keep them in the right way. Edited September 7, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted August 22, 2014 Author #477 Posted August 22, 2014 Shaping and testing the middle parts of the foremast and main mast Aussie048, egkb, Littlebob and 3 others 6 Quote
Kitzilla Posted August 23, 2014 #478 Posted August 23, 2014 I'm thinking of picking up the HMS snake myself. Looking at Caldercrafts online PDF instructions for some of their other ships (since Snake's instructions don't seem to be available on their website), there's a list of paints, finishes, and other materials in the manual that they recommend to finish the model. If there's a similar list in the Snakes manual, could I ask a tiny favour for you to maybe snap a pic of the list, or transcribe it here in a post? I'd like to buy everything in one go, rather than buy the kit, read the list, and then have to make a second buy of all the supplies. Quote
drtrap Posted August 24, 2014 Author #479 Posted August 24, 2014 I'm thinking of picking up the HMS snake myself. Looking at Caldercrafts online PDF instructions for some of their other ships (since Snake's instructions don't seem to be available on their website), there's a list of paints, finishes, and other materials in the manual that they recommend to finish the model. If there's a similar list in the Snakes manual, could I ask a tiny favour for you to maybe snap a pic of the list, or transcribe it here in a post? I'd like to buy everything in one go, rather than buy the kit, read the list, and then have to make a second buy of all the supplies. Hi Kitzilla I think this is all that you want... Cheers Quote
drtrap Posted August 24, 2014 Author #480 Posted August 24, 2014 At this point I'd like to ask, especially you Mort and Norman whether you have painted in yellow ochre the middle and upper 1/3 parts of fore- and main- masts or you have left the unpainted (except the sections in black). If you have left them unpainted, did you use the original dowels from the kit or have you ordered walnut aftermarket dowels? Thank you in advance! Stergios Quote
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