drtrap Posted July 22, 2013 Author #121 Posted July 22, 2013 New after market fittings just arrived... The standard kits barrels compared to those of 24lbs and 32 lbs respectively. When placed the order I considered the aftermarket 24lbs as the most appropriate in seize but today I dont know what to choose for the weaponry... I strongly need your estimation on this 'debate" matter. Thank you in advance. Stergios brianbrownzzzzzz 1 Quote
drtrap Posted August 1, 2013 Author #122 Posted August 1, 2013 Modification of the inner bulwarks... Quote
ModelBoatMaker Posted August 1, 2013 #123 Posted August 1, 2013 Nice, have you decided on the carronades yet...? Quote Previous build - HM Schooner PickleCurrent build - HMS Snake 1:64Future Build - Sergal Cutty Sark
drtrap Posted August 6, 2013 Author #124 Posted August 6, 2013 Nice, have you decided on the carronades yet...? Hi Pete I'm still waiting for the 32's kits. Cornwall model boats sent to me only the barrels, ten days ago... Quote
drtrap Posted August 6, 2013 Author #125 Posted August 6, 2013 I've instantly found the time to see your recent posts spending my summer holidays. Greek island were so close to me... Quote
drtrap Posted August 23, 2013 Author #126 Posted August 23, 2013 Hi mates I'm so many steps behind you but I try to find my rythm again. Cheers Quote
drtrap Posted August 23, 2013 Author #127 Posted August 23, 2013 In the mean time I want to ask you: 1] do you like to have painted or blackened small parts like trunnions, eyelets etc 2] what kind of tool do you use to trim or precise cut metal rods of 1mm to 1,5 mm? Thanks a lot! Quote
ModelBoatMaker Posted August 23, 2013 #128 Posted August 23, 2013 In the mean time I want to ask you: 1] do you like to have painted or blackened small parts like trunnions, eyelets etc 2] what kind of tool do you use to trim or precise cut metal rods of 1mm to 1,5 mm? Thanks a lot! 1- I prefer to paint metal parts black after a first coat of metal primer. 2. I use metal pliers to cut the rod the a rough size ( sometime a hack saw if the rod is too big), then I use an English pattern pin vice to clamp it, and use a dremel type tool to sand/grind down each end flat and to a more accurate length. Cheers, Pete Quote Previous build - HM Schooner PickleCurrent build - HMS Snake 1:64Future Build - Sergal Cutty Sark
Beef Wellington Posted August 23, 2013 #129 Posted August 23, 2013 Hi Stergios, I'd that I had initially wanted to blacken all the parts. However I reached the conclusion that it was probably not worth it. There are so many brass parts that I couldn't get to look the same colour (some I could only get to be brown, I'm guessing each part is a slightly different alloy)) so I turned to painting which I think is easier and still can give a nice look. Another consideration is that using CA glue to attach everything together that would also be very hard to do to get things looking consistent. I was glad I tried though. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted August 23, 2013 Author #130 Posted August 23, 2013 Thank you mates. For the moment I try to find out which type of gun is my prefered one... These days i'll try to assemble each kit independently just to be sure. Quote
drtrap Posted August 23, 2013 Author #131 Posted August 23, 2013 All sills glued in place. It;s my choise to not drill the sills, independently of the possible use of the after market guns and fittings... JayCub 1 Quote
drtrap Posted September 7, 2013 Author #132 Posted September 7, 2013 ...trying hardly to find the stool bed of 0,5x3 and the carriage coin of 3x3 mm.... I think the above parts are totally missed! Jason, any help (your the 1st you've purchased those items)? Thanks Quote
drtrap Posted September 7, 2013 Author #133 Posted September 7, 2013 A couple of shots of my (late) progress... Left couple 24's carronades, right couple, 32's... I think definitely the 32's are the best option. A final touch up procedure is needed, but in the end with the other 14-16 .... JayCub and Beef Wellington 2 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 7, 2013 #135 Posted September 7, 2013 ...trying hardly to find the stool bed of 0,5x3 and the carriage coin of 3x3 mm.... I think the above parts are totally missed! Jason, any help (your the 1st you've purchased those items)? Thanks Stergios, the bed is the larger of the two wedges you have cut out, the smaller is the quoin. There should be a small groove at one end, that sits on top of the metal rod you've already fitted, the other sits on top of the rear axle frame. Hope that helps. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
Beef Wellington Posted September 7, 2013 #136 Posted September 7, 2013 I also like the 32lb'ers better, interesting to see them side by side. You've done a great job building those up, looks like you've figured out the process. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 8, 2013 Author #137 Posted September 8, 2013 Stergios, the bed is the larger of the two wedges you have cut out, the smaller is the quoin. There should be a small groove at one end, that sits on top of the metal rod you've already fitted, the other sits on top of the rear axle frame. Hope that helps. Thanks Jason, I'm still trying to fit those tiny parts. I;m not so sure about the orientation of the quoin. Should I place it onto the bed or "in line" with it? In a vertical or horizontal placement? The instructions are'nt so helpful, as you know.... Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 9, 2013 #138 Posted September 9, 2013 Hopefully these help, view from the top and bottom. Unfortunately these are assembled so its difficult to get a clear view. You can see in bottom picture how the bed sits on the cross bar and the axle frame so that the small slot sits on the bar. The quoin sits on top of the bed, see top picture. I shaped this a bit so it is a true wedge as it would have been, its important to get the quoin placed and shaped correctly to allow the barrel to align correctly. One thing to note, the hole in the cannon barrel that wire is inserted in to make the pommelions is not centred, which is historically accurate. Before gluing the cannon barrel into place, I'd play around with the quoin and the cannon barrel to make sure that you get the alignment you want on the ship. tuciship 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 9, 2013 Author #139 Posted September 9, 2013 Hopefully these help, view from the top and bottom. Unfortunately these are assembled so its difficult to get a clear view. You can see in bottom picture how the bed sits on the cross bar and the axle frame so that the small slot sits on the bar. The quoin sits on top of the bed, see top picture. I shaped this a bit so it is a true wedge as it would have been, its important to get the quoin placed and shaped correctly to allow the barrel to align correctly. One thing to note, the hole in the cannon barrel that wire is inserted in to make the pommelions is not centred, which is historically accurate. Before gluing the cannon barrel into place, I'd play around with the quoin and the cannon barrel to make sure that you get the alignment you want on the ship. IMG_0462.JPGIMG_0463.JPG ...everything is so clear now.... Cheers Quote
drtrap Posted September 21, 2013 Author #140 Posted September 21, 2013 A couple of pics from my latest work... It was the best opportunity to see and understand better the sizes of the weaponry... tuciship and JayCub 2 Quote
drtrap Posted September 21, 2013 Author #141 Posted September 21, 2013 (edited) So realy difficult to place all the deck fittings back here... Especially to find the right spot to drill the front holes for the eyelets of the wheel rigging, because of the holes of the last caronnade. I think I need to study your previous photos mates! The fittings are placed temporarily of course... Edited September 21, 2013 by Stergios JayCub, tuciship and Beef Wellington 3 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 21, 2013 #142 Posted September 21, 2013 Nice little arsenal you have there Stergios! I had much more fun with the cannons than the carronades. Bottom line, there is very little room on the deck at the stern, the plans are hopelessly out of scale, and you're right it does take some playing to get it all making sense. One thing that can buy you some room is to reduce the height of the ladders so they remain flush with the aft platform decking - there are some photos in my log which may help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-21#entry95246. Apart from being a bit more intuitive, this also has the benefit of giving you a bit more space. The tiller ropes do come very close to the ladders. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 21, 2013 Author #143 Posted September 21, 2013 Nice little arsenal you have there Stergios! I had much more fun with the cannons than the carronades. Bottom line, there is very little room on the deck at the stern, the plans are hopelessly out of scale, and you're right it does take some playing to get it all making sense. One thing that can buy you some room is to reduce the height of the ladders so they remain flush with the aft platform decking - there are some photos in my log which may help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-21#entry95246. Apart from being a bit more intuitive, this also has the benefit of giving you a bit more space. The tiller ropes do come very close to the ladders. Yes Jason I tend to reduce the height, I placed the ladders uncut and temporarily.... I can imagine you've opened the holes for the breeching so close to the eyelet's hole for the wheel.... Quote
drtrap Posted September 22, 2013 Author #144 Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) Small quick update... and ready to fix the wheel on the deck Edited September 23, 2013 by Stergios Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 23, 2013 #145 Posted September 23, 2013 (edited) Looking good, big step to attach the wheel! Forgive me for posting a photo, but thought it might help show where the steering tackle and the carronade rigging ended up on mine....not much space at all and don't think there is much of an alternative! Looking forward to seeing some more updates. Edited September 23, 2013 by Beef Wellington tuciship 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 23, 2013 Author #146 Posted September 23, 2013 Looking good, big step to attach the wheel! Forgive me for posting a photo, but thought it might help show where the steering tackle and the carronade rigging ended up on mine....not much space at all and don't think there is much of an alternative! Looking forward to seeing some more updates. You're always welcoming, Jason. Thanks for the photo! Quote
drtrap Posted September 23, 2013 Author #147 Posted September 23, 2013 A custom made mini ruler for the symmetry of the anchoring holes.... JayCub 1 Quote
drtrap Posted September 23, 2013 Author #148 Posted September 23, 2013 The wheel in place, finally. A question still in debate: the rope for the wheel... Should I use 0,1 or 0,25 line for the rigging? And something for the front platform: is it a major fault to leave it's gap (for the bowsprit) rectangular than to shape it in a semicircular fashion, like you did ? Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 23, 2013 #149 Posted September 23, 2013 The wheel in place, finally. A question still in debate: the rope for the wheel... Should I use 0,1 or 0,25 line for the rigging? And something for the front platform: is it a major fault to leave it's gap (for the bowsprit) rectangular than to shape it in a semicircular fashion, like you did ? I used the .25mm line. On your question on the front patform, who am I to judge There really seems to be no guidance, I made the assumption that the deck would fit around the bowsprit, but there are still gaps. Maybe just see how it looks with the bowsprit in and you can decide if you like it or not? Kurt Johnson 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 23, 2013 Author #150 Posted September 23, 2013 (edited) I used the .25mm line. On your question on the front patform, who am I to judge There really seems to be no guidance, I made the assumption that the deck would fit around the bowsprit, but there are still gaps. Maybe just see how it looks with the bowsprit in and you can decide if you like it or not? Thanks again Jason. I thought that you used the 0,1 line, I think I read yesterday your thosedays post.... Edited September 23, 2013 by Stergios Quote
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