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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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The wheel in place, finally.

A question still in debate: the rope for the wheel... Should I use 0,1 or 0,25 line for the rigging?

And something for the front platform: is it a major fault to leave it's gap (for the bowsprit) rectangular than to shape it in a semicircular fashion, like you did ?

I used 0.25mm rope, I also recommend winding the rope round the wheel and sealing with watered pva before anything is fixed in position.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

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I used 0.25mm rope, I also recommend winding the rope round the wheel and sealing with watered pva before anything is fixed in position.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

Thanks Pete, I'm thinking to start from the tiller the rigging, going bilaterally to the eyelets/blocks and finishing at the wheel....

Edited by Stergios
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Can only speak for my experience, but I'd stick with woodfiller, I use the fast drying stuff which is very easy to use.  Glue isn't really made to fill gaps in the way you need it to, so you'd probably still have indentations when its dry that need to be taken care of.

Thank you Jason.

Any recommendation on the type of fast drying stuff?

You know, local products are'nt the same and personal experience is highly required..!

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Two planks (1,5 mm each) help me to place and drill the capping rails in the middle border (between the inner and outer bulwarks...

I try to do my best despite the fact that the capping rails and bulwarks respectively are'nt cut in relative harmony...

Out of plan for another time...

post-944-0-13894400-1380318312_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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Those shearing lateral forces of the bad-shaped capping rail especially at the stern is a huge headache for me.

I think that using beam or heat is a useless option to decrease the unwanted curvature at the rear edge....

I hope to finally have a nice result with those 1 mm wires....

post-944-0-44393000-1380319149_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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Trying to place on the right (middle) point of the bulwark  the posterior edge of the capping rail. 

Its pre-shaped posterior arch and bending can't help me at all.

Thinking to leave it as it is, as a so-called lateral "offset", on that place.

Hope to not create additional troubles following next phases...

post-944-0-81860000-1380463796_thumb.jpg

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Hi to everyone.

Capping rail (lateral and posterior) dry-fitting is in progress, I'm concerned with the shape of the aft capping rail, as it's a bit curve and not so suitable to the upper rim of the (more straight) stern fascia...

Did you re-shape it anyway or just left as it was and glued in place?

(I saw Jason has made his own aft capping rail, propably for the above mentioned reason..).

Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello to everyone, I'm back again.

Jim, Pete,  I still wonder, did you use and glue in place the (somehow curved) standard posterior capping rail provided by the kit, or did you place another not so curved 2x2 wallnut plank?

I'm about to fix it, but because of its curved shapeI can't place it "equally spaced" on the stern fascia.

Thanks a lot

post-944-0-26252500-1381494277_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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Lateral bulwark capping rails glued in place.

I've left unglued only the anterior and posterior thirds just to have the option to manipulate the edges later to obtain a equally spaced placement on the bulwark's rim and a better symmetrical adaption on the anterior and posterior platforms respectively.

post-944-0-04876800-1381494813_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-75535800-1381494827_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-63585100-1381494848_thumb.jpg

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Great progress, looking very good.  I love the colour of the wood in the second photo.

 

I forgot to comment on your previous post, you are correct that I made the stern capping rail because the curvature wasn't quite right.  It was as much for practice as anything, and I could have used the pre-cut piece and it would probably have looked OK.  It easy to judge the curve by putting some card overhanging the stern and draw the profile with a pencil, that gives you the template to make your own or compare to the supplied piece and see if its close enough for you.

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Great progress, looking very good.  I love the colour of the wood in the second photo.

 

I forgot to comment on your previous post, you are correct that I made the stern capping rail because the curvature wasn't quite right.  It was as much for practice as anything, and I could have used the pre-cut piece and it would probably have looked OK.  It easy to judge the curve by putting some card overhanging the stern and draw the profile with a pencil, that gives you the template to make your own or compare to the supplied piece and see if its close enough for you.

 

Thank you Jason, finally I did my own (custom-made) posterior capping rail.

post-944-0-24408700-1381684564_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-16912700-1381684608_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

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Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

This!

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Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

Thank you again, Jason!

By the way, from your experience what;s the best next step you advise me to follow: placing the pinrails etc or placing, fixing and rigging the cannons & carronades? 

Cheers!

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Hi Guys,

 

Just a comment. Why don't you make up the pin rails first and mark where they belong on the bulworks but do not glue them in place. Next rig your cannons and then glue the pin rails in place. The extra rigging room will come in handy.

 

Mort

Hi Mort, this was my point of concern.

I think that Jason (so many steps ahead) knows better... 

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My personal opinion only - didn't find that the bulwark pinrails interfered at all in the cannon rigging, but do what you think you' be comfortable with.    I'd definitely suggest fixing the bulwark cleats (part 165) before the cannons and this may also play into where you position the pinrails.  This is one of those sneaky items that the instructions don't call out and you need to look at plan '3 of 7' to find them.  Confusingly there are 6 bulwark cleats identified (for lines 55, 5, 50) but only 4 supplied.  If you look at plan '4 of 7', you can see that line 5 does not in fact need to terminate at a bulwark cleat I ommitted that one, installing the bulwark cleats at locations indicated for lines 55 & 50 on plan '3 of 7'.  This is less than clear, and fingers crossed it is correct...hope I haven't caused more confusion.

Edited by Beef Wellington
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My personal opinion only - didn't find that the bulwark pinrails interfered at all in the cannon rigging, but do what you think you' be comfortable with.    I'd definitely suggest fixing the bulwark cleats (part 165) before the cannons and this may also play into where you position the pinrails.  This is one of those sneaky items that the instructions don't call out and you need to look at plan '3 of 7' to find them.  Confusingly there are 6 bulwark cleats identified (for lines 55, 5, 50) but only 4 supplied.  If you look at plan '4 of 7', you can see that line 5 does not in fact need to terminate at a bulwark cleat I ommitted that one, installing the bulwark cleats at locations indicated for lines 55 & 50 on plan '3 of 7'.  This is less than clear, and fingers crossed it is correct...hope I haven't caused more confusion.

I can't locate parts No 165 (4 pieces, casting) on my "3 of 7" plan...

Could you please upload any relative photo for understanding better?

Thanks

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