Niagara 1813 by Don Quixote - Model Shipways - 1:64 - First build

[Don Quixote]

On another note, my wife got me this saw for X-mas and I played around a bit. Since then I've picked up a much smaller blade with a lot more teeth. I expect future cuts to be much cleaner. Note the strip running parallel to the guide channel. I was able to rip that thin piece as well.

 

It's the Praxxon. I love how the table extends. Bit of a challenge to change the blade, but it seems well built.

[Don Quixote]

 

Jack12477

 

I do not like the way it feels in my hand.

 

Can anyone recommend some alternatives? I got this from my mother some 10 years ago.

[GuntherMT]

The colors look pretty good in that last picture.  Nice work Brian.

[jiljilia]

I like the colors on the last picture of the hull. Looks great!

[Don Quixote]

Thanks guys! I feel like I finally made some progress. I started this thing on Xmas of '13. I have some touch up to do on the inside of the gun ports and sweeps, then I'm finally ready to mount it on the stand. I'm SO excited!

 

Again, thanks a LOT!

[Don Quixote]

Looking along the deck you can see the planks are not straight. The false keel was 1 piece and I laid the first plank right down the center of it. Or so I thought. First picture is the stem. If my pictures are any good, you'll see it's hanging over by about 1/64". Next picture is mid ship. Looke to me like it's IN (or hanging over the other side of the keel) about 1/128th" Last picture is at the stern, where it looks to be perfect.

 

As I lay planks it seems to be getting more pronounced. Question is, do I insert a corrective plank, slowely taper the planks 'till it's straight or just let is play out?

Edited March 9, 2015 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[Laxet]

My thoughts are these: if you barely compensate at the beginning it will not be noticeable. If you wait, it might not be noticeable, but it might. It will very easy to compensate now. So I would adjust now. Using larger planks like you are might also be enough to not draw notice.

[Don Quixote]

Using several dozen profane syllables, I pulled every thing up from the deck. I broke the frame to the captains quarters, but no one likes him anyway.

 

I thought I had fared up the unfare-a-frame. I measured from corner to corner, I know of no better way to be sure something is square... I measured from the far right piece which is fixed, to the mobile part that rests against a bulkhead to be sure they were equally distant.

 

I laid a plank edgewise on the table to be sure it was straight and laid it perfectly atop the keel at both stem and stern. As you can see there's a 3/16" difference at mid ship. How in the devils stomping grounds can that be? At this point I think I should mark along the edge of the plank atop the keel and use that as my straight edge because it looks to be straight.

 

Opinions?

 

And WHY am I still having fun?!!!

 

By the way, I wear tri-foculs.

Edited March 11, 2015 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[Don Quixote]

So that's exactly what I did. I marked the center of the keel, stem and stern, and ran a straight edge using those marks. The plank on the port side is 1/32" narrower than the other so I'm very happy with that... The trim along the edge is 1/32" square, so I'm happy with me on that too. Obviously my keel is bowed. Only thing I can think of is that at some point I must have leaned it at an angle instead of keeping it on a flat surface the whole time. Lesson learned there.

 

I used a Ranco Arts, soft lead black lead pencil on the edge and ends of the boards, just one edge, not both. It was a little darker but I decided to give the deck one last sanding with 400 grit and that seems to have removed a bit of the lead. Ah, well... Lot's to learn.

 

As you can see I'm choosing to put the hatches...etc. on top of the planking. I didn't want that worry in addition to the planking being straight. Plus, the ones I built before were not square.

 

I'm not sure why they're not square, I used a square and glued some scrap wood in an "L" shape on top of some wax paper that I taped to the bench and did it successfully with no wrinkles in the paper.

 

I'm open to suggestions on how to make them square. I used a plank cutter I got from micromark so the lengths would be the same size...

 

I don't think the holes for the masts will be a problem either. Once that's all installed the (I think they're called spanker mast steps and wedges?) should hide the poor cuts.

Edited March 16, 2015 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[Jack12477]

 

Jack12477

 

I do not like the way it feels in my hand.

 

Can anyone recommend some alternatives? I got this from my mother some 10 years ago.

 

 

I assume you mean the Badger air brush? ! ?  Yes, it does feel awkward to hold. Go to an art supply store and see if they carry other brands like Paash (spelling ??) or even different models of Badger to see if any other feel "better" in your hand. I've only used the one model of Badger so I can't comment much on other brands but I would guess they all fit the hand about the same. It took me a while to get used to the feel. Will probably have to start over again since I have not used it in about 15-20 years now.

[Don Quixote]

I'll look into that, thanks. I want to get a different one before I start my next ship. I'll have to drive 90 minutes to get to a decent size city where there will be a decent selection and more than one store. You'd think in a town of 200,000 people (Modesto, California) there'd be more that 1 half way decent hobby store, but the best one I can find is more about planes and cars. They have only 2 wooden model ships for sale and they're solid hull, $50.00 models. And they carry only 2 air brush kits, both badger.

[Laxet]

I have two Badgers (a single action & a double action) & used them both for many years, but once I tried an Iwata, I never looked back. One of the best places to buy them is Dixie Art at http://www.dixieart.com/. I also got a decent deal on an Iwata gravity feed last year at Hobby Lobby, although I know they aren't in Calif.

 

Modesto. That's where my father was born. I've never been there myself though.

[Don Quixote]

Modesto. I know why your father left. Nothing to see here, folks, keep moving along... Nothing but gangs these days. Oakdale's just 20 miles N.E. 20,000 people, 20 cops. Make for a nice ratio and a safe township. Most of the people here commute to the bay area. I'd retire before I drive for 4 hours a day. Oh, that's right, I AM retired! Woo hoo!

 

I bookmarked that link so I can check it out when the time comes. I really think I'd have more control with my thumb than my index finger.

[Don Quixote]

Laxet, Which model double action did you get?

[Laxet]

All are double action except one Badger. They are as follows:

 

Badger 150 (mine is so old it looks little like the current one)

Iwata Eclipse BCS

Iwata HP-CS

 

To me, the Iwatas are very comfortable to hold.

[Don Quixote]

Thanks. Not ready to buy just yet. Won't need it for some time yet, but I saved the link to that site.

 

Next question. Looking at your cannons, I getting ready to try my hand at them. How it the **** did you get the rings onto the eyebolt? I take it you had to pry one or the other apart a little and pinch them back together? Which one, the eyebolt, or the ring? I'm guessing the ring would be easier? Any tricks?

[Laxet]

It's fairly easy. You are right. I opened the rings using two pairs of smooth jawed needlenose pliers. Just twist the ends sideways away from each other. If you pull the ends apart, you'll never get them fully closed. In that case, you would twist them slightly, close them so the ends overlap slightly, then twist closed.

[Don Quixote]

Excellent, thanks. Those things are SMALL. I'm going to need bigger glasses. To fit quad-foculs. These old tri's aren't getting it any more. Time for a new pair, I'm thinking.

[Laxet]

Here is what I use exclusively. It is 5 diopter (power?), & I can see germs on a bugs butt with it. Again, not the cheapest option but I couldn't be without it.

[Don Quixote]

Yeah, mine went belly up a month ago. Tried replacing the light, but no go. Musta been the balast. I'll be getting a new one soon.

[Don Quixote]

I'm working on the long guns. I see something about a transom in the front, but I don't see a pre-fabricated part. Is this something I have to make from scratch, or am I just not looking well enough.

 

Also, the manual shows the transom as going in at about a 30 degree angle, but I'm assuming it's actually supposed to be horizontal to the top of the cheeks just below where the pins will lay, under the trunion bands?

 

Am I to make the quoin, bed and block fron scratch?

[Laxet]

Everything is hand made except the carriage sides as far as I remember. The transom is indeed at an angle.

[Don Quixote]

Oh, goody. I'll post the results in about a month

[Don Quixote]

I'm getting ready to do the rigging for the cannons. I'm wondering about the seizing. How does one afix the seizing? I'm not ready to tie anything yet. Not confident of my skills at this point. I'm considering watering down some wood glue. I don't think it'll be shiny or hide the fine seizing that way. Ideas and opinions?

 

Also, I have a serving machine, Seams reasonable to use that to seize one of the ends, but after I run it through the eye and rings, I'm open to suggestions as well.

[Don Quixote]

When I was a kid, My Dad said nothing was impossible, just improbable. I seem to be making his case. Onto the next improbable. I'm following Laxet's example and doing just the breech ropes.

 

I hope there are 10 x's more rings and eyes than I need. 4 out of 10 escape the pliers and go who knows where, 5 out of 10 are consumed by the floor devil and I get one out of 10 I can use

Edited April 19, 2015 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[Laxet]

I seized one end of each rope, threaded it through the eyebolts then seized the other end. All seizing was done by hand. It's not so hard after you've done a few, & the skill will really help later on once you start rigging for real.

 

You should make your own rings. I used (I think) .020 brass wire & wrapped it around a 5/64" drill bit 10 or 15 times. The just cut the rings one at a time & squeeze closed. Every bit as good as the store bought & way cheaper, plus you can make any size you want.

[Don Quixote]

Carronade barrels. Does the brass black turn that black or do I have to paint all those pcs?

[Laxet]

I painted mine. I only tried to blacken parts that paint would have been over scale on.

[Don Quixote]

Using Model-Expo's paint? It chips off so easily. looks like you made that black plate on the front. That must have been a challenge.

 

Sorry if their are any typo's. I don't have my glasses on and I'm a pathetic typist. Somewhare around 60 seconds a word. Typing was not a big deal in the 70's. I just wanted to graduate:) bare minimum. LOL.

[Laxet]

Actually, I used Krylon spray paint, available at many hardware stores. I used their sandable primer first then shot with semi-gloss black. It lays down real thin. In fact, that is what I used on the black part of the hull. I use Krylon blacks (flat, semi-gloss & gloss), white, silver & clear coats for all models. It can be hot on some plastics, so be sure to use primer on them. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than model paints.