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About Laxet

  • Birthday 08/01/1957

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Flower Mound TX
  • Interests
    photography, woodworking, modeling

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  1. Hope you don't mind me barging in on this discussion. According to Darcy Lever's Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor, the ratlines start at the futtock stave & go down. The futtock stave is only secured to the shrouds that will have cat-harpins. See the attached photos from the book. Of course this book was written later than this period but I could imagine the setups were the same.
  2. I don't know what scale it is. It is a picture from the website of the guy who sells the machine. It is a serving machine & he sells an attachment to make the mice. I tried it, but was unable to get it to work properly. Here is the full picture of the machine.
  3. The stop in the line is called a "mouse". Here is a picture of one on the Niagara & a picture of a machine used to "raise a mouse".
  4. My mistake. I thought you were talking about the tackles on some of the pendants that belay to pins, not the deadeye lines. I actually did those black.
  5. I did my tackle in brown & I'll give you my rationale. Typically, lines are black because they have been tarred & are permanently attached. I couldn't imagine belaying a tarred line to a pin so I went brown. I assumed that a line on a pin was meant to be adjusted/moved on occasion. Perhaps the replica ship used black rope. I could be all wrong on this, but I had to make an educated guess & this made sense to me.
  6. She's looking good, Brian. I could be wrong (because I did it wrong on my ship) but verify with the prints the orientation of the main grating (forward of the main mast). I believe it should run fore/aft & not athwartship. I don't have my prints handy.
  7. I don't recall having to do anything special for the capstan. It was a little tight, but I don't know the size dowel I used.
  8. Thanks for the kind words. I was pretty pleased myself considering (as I've said a hundred times here) it's my first wood ship ever. Next one will be even better. I've learned a ton here.
  9. It's not painted. I took a small circle cutter & cut it out of thin sheet plastic. The bolt heads are glue. They didn't come out as good as I would have hoped. I never got around to making the star in the middle & eventually just forgot about it.
  10. I don't have my prints handy any more (I've packed them away), so I'm not sure which sheaves (pronounced "shivs") you are talking about, but I suspect you are referring to the ones in the sides. Sheave is another name for a block. In this case, they are built into the sides. Lines traverse through the holes & the sheaves facilitate the hauling of them. One person suggested cutting a square hole & inserting a wire ring to simulate the pulley. Or you could probably just drill a hole & pass the line through it. Not many people would call you out on that. Do you need them? I cut th
  11. If you look at pages 4, 11, & 20 of my log, you will see some pics of the hawse hole, some without a rope & some with.
  12. I didn't actually put in a pipe. I just drilled the holes. With a rope in it you can't tell the difference anyway.
  13. And here is her final resting place. It is my belief that all fireplace mantels should have a sailing ship on them. I finally got one. All I have to do now is build a case.
  14. Thanks Larry. I shot those shuttle pictures when it landed at LAX a couple of years ago. That was the first time I had ever seen it. And thanks to everybody else for their kind words. It's been fun exchanging ideas & learning so much about ship building. I already miss not seeing her on my desk anymore after so much time.
  15. The hawse pipe is for the anchor cable to penetrate the bulkhead. The other end goes into a chain locker, & they pull it up with the capstan. But it has to be able to go outboard of the ship, thus the hawse pipe. In answer to your question, yes, it goes all the way through.
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