Swift by adivedog - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - First build

[hircsailor]

Enjoying your building log.  I brought a AL Swift kit at a flea market last week and from the paper work that was with it the kit is about 30 years old. The original owner started it and did a terrible job on it. I posted a couple of pictures of the work before I took it apart to correct the mistakes. The keel was a total loss so I brought bass wood to build a new one. I will keep watching your log and hopping to pick up pointers to use in my build.

Jim

[hircsailor]

Ok now I am confused has AL changed the design of the Swift over the years. As I has said the kit I picked up is about 30 years old and the cut outs for below deck is only 2"x2" and I have noticed that pictures of the newer build logs show much larger openings. It makes me wonder if the kits are models of the same boat. Can anyone help with this.

Jim

[DocBlake]

The basic boat is the same, but there have been some minor revisions.  Some of the fittings are different, the lower deck is much larger etc.   

 

Dave

[adivedog]

Hi hircsailor

 

Yes as Dave said the lower decks are different, but the rest is pretty much the same. I think the new kit has some better wood, and the parts may be somewhat better. I know my keel was flat and even. I don't know if the old one had laser cut parts, but doubt it. Check out themadchemist log, he is doing the old kit.

 

Take your time on the keel and frames. Make sure everything is straight and aligned, everything builds off of that. When you get the frames on, lay a plank across them and see how they line up for laying planks. Also, know the wood, especially the planks may not be to good, so you may have to buy some new ones.

 

Good luck

[themadchemist]

If you check my log you will find I completely closed the back opening and am replacing it with a wheel, binnacle (I'm considering remaking this piece), belfry (actually its a gongfry) and grating.

The front deckhouse was also shortened, not to mention the Battersea power station stacks.

Breaking the rules is so fun        ....see you on the Dock Side of the Moon......

[Grimber]

I like the build log so far.  Taking me a while to get to as many Swift logs I can find and find time to read through ( considering how long Keith's log is I may get my first build done before getting to the end of his log )

 

Your planking looks great and I hope I can pick it up and get as good of results on my first time out as you did.

 

I like the info on the lead lining the scuppers ( never even knew what the deck drain holes were called before now)  I got an idea you might look into instead of straight solder, try some solder tape maybe instead.  

 

 

It is solder but it keeps its shape.  Used to make circuitry 'runs' on circuit boards.  Got my roll off eBay just search for solar panel supplies as it is used to connect solar cells to make solar panels.  It keeps its shape, just a little flux whee you want it, lay it down flat on the line you want to stick to and run the soldering iron over it

 

edited  may not stick to wood, but it bends and shapes super easy so could just shape it and glue it in

Edited October 17, 2014 by Grimber

[adivedog]

Thanks Grimber

 

I'll look into the solder tape. I never even heard of it. 

 

If I do the lead on the scuppers, I want it to be a dark matte colored to look like the old lead. The tape might be too shiny ?

[adivedog]

Keith,  I thought about a binnacle too, but decided just to keep it as is. I do like the look though.

[adivedog]

By the way, I finished the second planking this evening. Will be posting some pictures soon. I will say, i think the second planking was harder than the first layer. Only because of the wood in the kit. It is so thin and dry, really hard to work with.

 

This hobby is a lot of woulda, shouda. Woulda gotten better wood, shoulda done a lot of things.

 

I figure this project is my learning experience and hopefully will not make the same mistakes next time.

[Grimber]

another possibility is cast your own lead pieces.  When I made painted miniatures for dioramas and war game military sets I use to cast allot of them myself.

 

 

it can get expensive to get started doing your own molds unless you do some shopping around and pre-reading on it, but if you can make lead pieces that are popular you just started your own home business.

[adivedog]

That's an idea, but I don't want to get that involved yet. Still trying to keep things simple. The pieces would only be about 1/4" x 3/4" and very thin.

[Grimber]

That's an idea, but I don't want to get that involved yet. Still trying to keep things simple. The pieces would only be about 1/4" x 3/4" and very thin.

 

I know what you mean.  I haven't done any hobby work in 25+ years and everything I had accumulated then is now long gone.  So I'm starting over and I swear my budget is just as limited now as then.   Was glad keith suggested harbor freight, just went there today and got some much needed items for about 40 and i know anyplace else it would have been 2-3 times the cost easy, but that also took my budget for this month and maybe into next .

 

with limited tools and resources have to keep from going nuts at first on the hobby and slowly build into it, all the way around

[adivedog]

If you fill out the card at HF, they will send you flyers on their sales, and e mails with coupons. I got the caliper of $10

 

I was lucky enough to have a garage full of tools and power tools, so was ahead of the game.

 

Hobby Lobby is another good place, if you have one close by. They also put a 40% off coupon in the Sunday papers.

Edited October 18, 2014 by adivedog

[themadchemist]

Not just the newspaper, you can have it sent to your phone if you download their app. It's good everyday, meaning you can use it 7 times a week as when you use it, you get another, but only 1 per day and its only good on 1 item. We always use the 40% off on the most expensive item, if it isn't already on sale.

JoAnn Fabrics has the same with 20% off the whole order or 30% off one item. Its another handy place for rigging supplies.
 

[hircsailor]

In one way I envy you modelers on the mainland as you have all these different stores that you can go to for tools and parts. Here in Hawaii we are pretty much limited to online shopping, we have Ben Franklin and Walmart with very little that modelers can use. No matter what the ads say about free shipping there is never free shipping to Hawaii.  But with winter coming I will be happy paying shipping than living back in Chicago with the snow and cold.

[adivedog]

I can't believe Hobby Lobby or one of those stores hasn't gone to Hawaii. I guess everything is not perfect in "paradise"

[adivedog]

Can finally update some pictures on the progress.

 

I decided to plank before adding the keel to see how it would work. Most ships have a rabbet line, but the Swift doesn't so am pretty happy with the way it went. This picture was taken right after I sanded and filled some small gaps in between the planks. It was a little difficult to do, sometimes, had to lay on my lap to iron planks on.

 

 

This is how the keel line looks. The false keel was beveled and the finish planks were put on almost to the top of false keel.

Then sanded all the way down for the keel to fit.

 

 

Thought I screwed up the bow, I should have ran the planks closer together at the bow. I was afraid the Keel wouldn't go over the gap. But it came out fine.

 

 

 

After sanding the keel line. Attached the bow piece of the Keel. This piece needs to be done first. I put a dab of ca on to hold in place, and used wood glue on all the rest of piece. BTW, I did put on a coat of poly before sanding the keel line. Figured that would help bond everything together.

 

 

After it dried, did the same for the rest of the keel.

 

 

There were a couple of small places, I filled in with thinned wood glue and sanded dust from the left over walnut pieces.

 

 

Overall, it came out real well. Now can get started on some fun stuff on the deck.

 

 

 

 

 

[themadchemist]

Looks Great, John.
I miss the days of being able to put her in my lap and work. Once the masts and bowsprit go on, it becomes a completely different model to handle and requires watching how you move it.

Did the kit have a 2 piece keel? I think I see a second scarf joint midway? The older kit doesn't, just wondered if you did that or it was like that from the kit.

Now come the fun parts.    wait, .... its all Funn     

[giantdog]

That is so so nice, if mine comes out half as good I'll be very happy indeed.

[adivedog]

Thanks Gdog,   I'm sure yours will.

 

Keith, there were four keel pieces. Bow, stern, and the two main pieces.  I don't really like the way they were done, but that's what you get. I did try to

glue-saw dust the joints but it didn't take too well. Also, would think the keel should be beveled some, but assume it's not so it will sit in the stand ?

[Grimber]

It's looking sharp.

 

I was thinking still about the scuppers ( something I want to do to is the lead lining as well) and this may work.  Testors steel or gun metal enamel paint to paint them in ( drys to dull metal finish ) then hit with a little clear finish to get the sheen you desire ( matte, satin, gloss...)

 

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Testors-Enamel-Plastic-Model/dp/B00ASCN10Q

 

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Metal-Enamel-Paint-Testors/dp/B00NQCJHEY/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1414177462&sr=1-2&keywords=testors+gun+metal+enamel

[hircsailor]

It is looking great, it will look outstanding when it is finished. I can't wait to see it.

[adivedog]

Hi Tony. Thanks for the idea.  I think the lead would have started just inside the scupper and would extend out a little over the hull then bend down to keep the water away from the ship. Keep thinking, we ought to come up with something.

 

I attempted to draw something but I don't know if it will make any sense.

 

[adivedog]

I put poly on the hull, stern, and keel. While letting it dry, I glued the deck houses together, and worked on the rudder.

 

 

 

Tomorrow, I'll put the hole in the stern and start on the stanchions.( Not sure if that's spelled right. ) and top rail.

[Grimber]

Hi Tony. Thanks for the idea.  I think the lead would have started just inside the scupper and would extend out a little over the hull then bend down to keep the water away from the ship. Keep thinking, we ought to come up with something.

 

I attempted to draw something but I don't know if it will make any sense.

 

ScupperLead.jpg

 

Thats good enough of an example to know the idea.   It will have be like a rivet a bit of 'farring' I guess you could call it around the outside edges of the openings.  a raised edge.  We just need to then fashion some sort of build up around the openings.  thin but just enough to suggest a caste lead piece inserted.  thin bits of wood built up and sanded/filed for roundness,  bead of glue, split in half round toothpick.  piece of scrap deck planking ( only .5mm thick) cut to the oblong shape and round the outside edges, then 'router' out the opening.

[adivedog]

I think I might try some tin. I can use snips to cut and then I can shape it, then maybe paint ?

[Grimber]

tin may work, or some alluminum from a soda can (easier to cut maye?).  Paint would work, just a little primer so it stick to the metal first.

[Grimber]

this was done really quick so its not cut very well, but something like this?  or squared off corners vs rounding it?  it's aluminum from a soda can btw  not painted yet.

 

Edited October 25, 2014 by Grimber

[SailorBob]

John,

I have just opened/started my first wooden ship model, an older Swift kit that seems to be more like Keith's kit. It is old, I've had it over 20 years and the frames are some kind of 'plywood' that is almost impossible to cut out and get a consistent shape with decent edges. I am test fitting the frames now. They do not seem to be warped.

So, as a newbie, I am a bit concerned at the work/skill that will be needed. I am amazed at the details, assistance and discussions you all are posting to document your efforts and thus help Lurkers like me get our feet wet. Looks like you started your Swift around Aug, 2014 and Keith well before that. I look forward to learning by researching both of your posts and then doing...lots of posts from both of you to read. I am limited in the amount of time to devote to this project but it will be a #2 priority for me. I will be looking for tools, jigs and widgets at local Hobby shops this w/e to help me with the build.

Thanks and good luck with your ship.

Bob.

[Grimber]

John,

I have just opened/started my first wooden ship model, an older Swift kit that seems to be more like Keith's kit. It is old, I've had it over 20 years and the frames are some kind of 'plywood' that is almost impossible to cut out and get a consistent shape with decent edges. I am test fitting the frames now. They do not seem to be warped.

So, as a newbie, I am a bit concerned at the work/skill that will be needed. I am amazed at the details, assistance and discussions you all are posting to document your efforts and thus help Lurkers like me get our feet wet. Looks like you started your Swift around Aug, 2014 and Keith well before that. I look forward to learning by researching both of your posts and then doing...lots of posts from both of you to read. I am limited in the amount of time to devote to this project but it will be a #2 priority for me. I will be looking for tools, jigs and widgets at local Hobby shops this w/e to help me with the build.

Thanks and good luck with your ship.

Bob.

 

Hi bob, time should not be a concern with your build. 

 

GabeK took 27 years to finish his Swift.  GabeK build log

I'm still trying to get through the build logs  and I'm only 25% of the way into Keith's log

 

There are allot of swift build logs here and not all of them have a title with Swift or virginia in them.  Some are the newer 1990s+ versions and others are the 1982 and 1985 older versions.