Rattlesnake by sport29652 - Model Shipways - 1:64

[sport29652]

JS did a great job with a decal. I have very little modeling experience and my "attempt" at a rub on was, well an attempt. I used clear scotch tape. I put the sticky side down and drew out my template. I then flipped it over, lined up my marks and gently stuck the rub on letter in place ( messed a couple letters up as they get put on backwards so when you flip the tape over it will be in order). The tape once flipped over will of course stick to your hull allowing you to rub the letters on. I can make a mock up and take some pic's if you want ?

[sport29652]

So for what seemed like a years worth of painting I have my hull done. I have a couple spots to touch up but for the most part I am satisfied.

Am working on the planks above the whale. Cutting the gun ports and having a accurate lip around each one is going to be a huge challenge. If any has an idea on how to get this done please let me know. I'm trying one now but think it's going to fail. I let everyone know how my idea works if it works

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

Wow

 

She looks good. Did you disposed of any waterline reference or are you planning on doing another color. Either way it really looks good as is.

 

As for the lip on the gunports. I agree. I am using boxwood to plank my gunwales and my Vanda Lay http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1643-x-y-attachment-for-dremel/?p=106929 to rough in the cut outs. I still need to fine tune them and it is a really an "unnerving" process.

 

My advice, make sure your blade is razor sharp. I use a strop and tune even new blades for this kind of work. Don't go big and try to make the cut in one pass. Slowly cut thin slices and work towards where you need to be. I am cutting each plank after I install it with the plan of one "final tune up" at the end.

 

I will try to post something shortly

 

PS> How did you do with maintaining the lip for the bulwarks. I actually sanded into mine while doing my gunwales. OUCH. Took me two days to repair it.

Edited October 7, 2013 by JPett

[JSGerson]

 

 

I have very little modeling experience and my "attempt" at a rub on was, well an attempt. I used clear scotch tape. I put the sticky side down and drew out my template. I then flipped it over, lined up my marks and gently stuck the rub on letter in place ( messed a couple letters up as they get put on backwards so when you flip the tape over it will be in order). The tape once flipped over will of course stick to your hull allowing you to rub the letters on. I can make a mock up and take some pic's if you want ? 

How did it work out with your lettering? Having never tried reversing the dry transfers with tape, how did you make the letters stick to the transom and not the tape when you rubbed the tape? Wouldn't the tape peel off the dry transfers when you removed it?

 

Of all the build logs I've looked at for the Rattlesnake, yours is the first I've seen for the painting stage. Since my model isn't and won't be painted, I look forward to watching yours as you progress.

[lamarvalley]

Looks good Eric, good painting.  Maybe there is someone who has a trick or a speedier way but I don't know of it. Slow and steady like you plan??.

 

If I understand you correctly..., you want a thickened 'lip' around the inside of the gun port yes? I saw one person do this... and I don't remember who and since my personal computer crash that saved info is long gone until they post again ( I follow them). The ship is the Santisma Trinidad and he had this sweet system for making the internal port hole insert and even a nifty way to sand them equally. Maybe it was GTM as the builder? Not sure. I know it was the trinidad tho as he has something like 120 to 140 ports in this massive fighting vessel.  One big deal in this was making each port hole the same.... and for him it was a daunting number 

Hope this helps.

 

Wow.... my memory rocks for minutia... here is the link to that build, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/991-santisima-trinidad-by-gtm-occre/page-4?hl=%2Btrinidad+%2Bport+%2Bholes#entry28308

Edited October 7, 2013 by lamarvalley

[Kenneth Powell]

Love the paint job.

[Martin W]

Nice painting -- the contrast between the white & black, along with the red gunports, really bring out the lines of this ship.

 

Great!!

 

Martin

[ZyXuz]

nice painting job!!

[sport29652]

Randy, Martin, ken and Jpett, thanks guys for the encouragement.

JS, the letters have a paper backing that you put onto the sticky side of the tape. I'll try to take a pic to explain it better

 

Tried to make a lip but I don't think it's going to happen

[sport29652]

just a quick update, planking and then some more. So here is my stren, my stipe terminates into the transome area at kinda right angle is this correct ? I viewed other builds and have seen such a variaty that my head is spinning. I know it's my model but I would like to make it as actuate as possible. Anyone know the answer ?

 

Edited October 17, 2013 by sport29652

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I see the shoe is on the other foot and I will be now following your build. 

 

I copied Blue Ensign's work (or at least tried too) in regards to how I terminated the black wale stripe in my stern. I too could not find anything showing how it was done so I went with something I liked by someone who does his homework.

 

On a side note: I am sure you know this but just to be safe. That piece of wood on top of the gunwales between Bulkhead C and D should end in line with the start of the gunport

 

The Gunwales came out nice

Edited October 17, 2013 by JPett

[Martin W]

Hi Eric -- I actually don't think you need to worry a whole heck of a  lot about lining up the wale with the transom, since the stern carving will cover over the edges there.  The carving extends from about 1/4 inch inside to about 5/16 inch beyond the hull, so any slight error will be hidden.

 

Your planking looks good.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

Thanks Jpett, I did intentionally leave that board long. The only thing I like about basswood is that is super easy to cut/sand and any error is easy to fix. So I have been leaving boards long/big. This worked out great on my framing for the gunwales. So if your see a board thats a little oversized thats my method.

[sport29652]

Drum roll please...... I have finally attached my transom ! Otherwise have chiping away at the gun wales. Still lots and lots of sanding, cutting gun ports, more sanding, well you get the picture.

 

 

Edited October 25, 2013 by sport29652

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

Wow

 

Can you share with us how you did that lettering

 

It looks "fabulous"

[Martin W]

And following the drumroll . . . . Cheers!  Bravo, well done! 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

So it's been awhile. Let me start by saying thanks guys your encouragement help keep me going.

I Have planked the inboard gun bulwarks and some of the hatch framing. I've been sanding and filing my ports which look out of wack to me, but am gonna roll with em. I see filler in my future, I'm swear I'm gonna post something on the lettering soon. What little time I've had lately I've been putting it into my boat and with turkey day coming I'll have some time to post it for u guys.

 

[Martin W]

Hi Eric -- great to have you back.  So what exactly seems out of whack with the gunports?  I can't make out any problems in the photos.  But I do remember that the gun ports gave me endless problems, and then the stern windows made those problems seem small.  I still have digestive problems thinking about them -- and last night I knocked a gun port lid off while tying off some rigging line (just before my seizing broke). 

 

cheers,

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

She is "looooking good" 

 

I see you went with a 3 step on your gunwale and side planking. I went with the traditional 4. I think yours looks nicer at this scale. It better highlights the symmetry used in planking. I might borrow this

 

As for the gunports. When I "beefcaked" mine I did the "little bit here, little bit there" thing to even out the mistakes, not fix them. Yea mine are a bit off too. They were way off but because people see contrast by "blending them", my mistakes are far less noticeable. I just made sure the big ones were surrounded by the second biggest ones and so forth. I don't think any two are really the same size. Did the same to even out the angle of the sills and make them appear to be "more" in line. They are not though.

 

I also see you added a wall on the "L" bulkhead and painted it black which I am if I am not mistaken means you are going to add the extra cannons "yes"

 

Ahoy Martin: Sorry to hear about your gunport lid incident "lol". I can see me doing this. Sorry not laughing at you, laughing at myself

Edited November 22, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Martin- the ports seem to be either a little angled or different sizes. I hopeing this dosent get magnified when I make the gun port lids, but I guess we will see. Your misshap made me cringe. I hope the damage is repairable.

 

J- you did a much better job at describing what I see with my ports. The black wall is for the quaternary deck steps that will allow a view below. So unfortunately not detailing under the quarterdeck, no extra cannons. I do have a question for you: what do u use for deck caucking ? And have have u tried to assemble the grating. My kit seems to be seriously lacking in enough material to do the grating egg crate style and not even enough to assemble them edge to edge ?

[JSGerson]

For the grating, I think you have two choices:

1. Make them yourself, but you will need a micro saw like Byrnes or Peac
2. Purchase them from a third party vendor

If you have the saw, I'd give it a try but they are tricky. Every cut must be exact or it won't work. If you do it right, you can make a much finer grid than what comes with the kit and it will look nicer. If that fails then you can always buy.

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I think that fact that I just dealt with your same problem is why I was able to see what you were dealing with.  MSW rocks and it is this kind of "sharing" of our experiences that make this site so great. The fact that I have learned from your posting too only further supports this.

 

As for the Decking. I am really having a problem here myself. I forget his name "sorry" and he did not return so his log has been lost. But someone used black paper between the planks. I have spent countless hours trying to duplicate what he did. I thought it looked great, it was so different from  the hull planking and to my eye made the decking stand out and actually look like decking. Too many of us try to do the scale thing. So much so, that although it may be done right it does not look right. Why I liked your planking method so much. Yours is art and makes us think the right way when we look at it; which I believe is the better way. I want to do this with my decking and thought that my "forgotten" poster did just that.

 

So "sorry' I wish I could help "lol" but for right now I can only suggest to test, test, test. You have a great eye and should use it here. In the end I might just copy what you end up doing so please post.

 

The grating, send an email to MS. They have proven that sending you out more is not a problem for them. let them know if it is short. I am sure they have ones that are longer.

 

If you want to add cannons. Chucks are perfect. I looked into them. My kit came with brass so it was kind of wasteful. I was going to ask him to consider doing a package which I think he should do. Right now it was like 90 bucks for all new cannons and carriages. No pizza wheels either "lol"

 

Sorry if I rambled here. I see I really said very little

Edited November 23, 2013 by JPett

[JPett]

PS: A link to Chucks cannons can be found in the sponsors section on the forum main page (Syren Ship Model Company). They are really "really" nice too

[sport29652]

I'm collecting chucks blocks and rope to use in this build, I dont know about throwing down another $100 on this build ? I've sent en email to MS we will see how long it takes for a response they have been great in the past.

[JPett]

Ahoy Sport

 

A hundred bucks I agree is a hundred bucks

 

BUT: When you consider the amount of time we all pour into these kits it really becomes pennies for hours of entertainment

 

Something to consider. I have already spent a hundred on my replacement wood for this kit. 200 is a slightly different story "lol" I'm cheap "I know" but I still might do it. I am waiting to see how she looks at that time and my free money when I get there which could be 6 months from now. Until that time I will plank the whole deck to leave all options 'open'

 

I also PM'ed Chuck and asked him about packages that include guns, carriages, rope and blocks. Everything needed to upgrade cannons in one easy to buy set. I asked about 20 but a 10 pack might have been a better request. He said he is really busy, his response implied "maybe" . That is a good thing: I am sure he is getting this from others.  

Edited November 23, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Let me know I could go for a package deal. I remember the post about using paper as caulking. Made a trip to the craft store and will begin to experiment with the method. I'll let you know how it works out. PS gonna use a dark brown paper or grey, will see how it looks.

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I bought the black.

 

Cool

 

Maybe between the two of us we can figure it out.

 

Where I am

 

I found that if you put a very thin layer of glue on a slightly wider strip of paper, let it set a bit you could then stick the planking wood to it. Once dry, trim it up. I discovered that the construction paper I bought was to heavy or thick. Paper thickness is measured in pounds.  I also found bending the paper around the butt side to be a problem along with sanding the finished deck which I think will need to be scraped. Next time I will lightly sand the wood first before starting.

 

I also replaced my deck wood with a hard wood.

 

PS: You would need to let Chuck know.

Edited November 24, 2013 by JPett

[Martin W]

Hi Eric -- here's a pretty simple way to do the caulking:  you can just blacken the edges of each piece of decking with a pencil and voila there you have it -- when you sand the planking, the blackened sides will become more prominent.  I used a black magic marker on some earlier planking, and had trouble with it running when I glued the plank down, but the pencil has worked just fine.

 

As for the gratings, you can make a jig pretty easily to cut the pieces and to hold them together, but JSGerson is right, you probably need a Byrnes saw.  I would guess that there are some descriptions of making them somewhere on MSW.  And I keep coming across the pieces from my kit that I didn't use since I fabricated my own.  I'll look around in all the clutter and if I find them I'd be more than happy to send them your way.  I'll let you know.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

Martin that would be great ! I wish I could go with JS and use a saw but.... Don't have one. I have about $200 in my piggy bank and have been eyeballing the Syren. However it could be a really smart investment as I have the MS constitution to build next.

[sport29652]

J- here is my first go at the paper caulking :

I didn't pre glue it to the planks. Instead I cut thin strips a little thicker than the planks and sandwiced them as I planked. In this tight space it got a little tricky but will be easier on the open deck.

Edited November 24, 2013 by sport29652