HMS Pegasus by herbgold - Victory Models - Scale 1:64

[herbgold]

I'm sorry, Mike, but you said (a little above, on 26 July):

 

Just make sure that you lay your planks naturally against the hull, and don't try to bend them laterally against their width.

 

and that's exactly what I've been trying to do!

[donrobinson]

Mike is right in what he has mentioned to you, if tapering the plank does not close the gap leave the tapered plank lie naturally and use a stealer to fill the remaining space. It is all still going to work, not to worry there, we are not criticising only trying to help. Please do not take anything the wrong way 

[herbgold]

Sorry if I over-reacted, chaps - it's been a long day and I've spent two hours of it in the dentist's chair...

thanks as always for your interest.

[donrobinson]

That's ok Buddy, two hours in dentist chair would have me going straight to liquor cabinet

[Landlubber Mike]

No worries.  There is such a thing called a "plank nipper" or the like that makes narrow cut into the underside of the plank to help with bends.  Similar principle to what you are doing, but no chunks are taken out.  

 

Don is right on the use of tapering and stealers to plank.  Use the first planking as a practice run for the second planking.  In some respects, the second planking is easier in that you have a solid foundation to plank on - for example, you don't need to pin the planks to the bulkheads, but use pins, etc. anywhere along the planking line (just don't put the pins in the plank itself!).

[herbgold]

Well, I've finished the first planking. It's not pretty - there's far too much filler for my liking - but I think it'll do as a foundation for the second planking. I hope.

[Landlubber Mike]

Looks good.  Just sand down the high spots, and layer on the filler in the low spots, and you'll have a solid foundation for the second planking. 

[herbgold]

Thanks Mike. It's amazing how much more clearly the imperfections show up in a photo than on the real thing!

[herbgold]

I've pinned a temporary batten to guide the top of the wale. Like others, I was a bit puzzled by how the wale should curve at the bow and stern, and I've just let the batten relax in what seems like a natural curve fore and aft.

 

On another topic, this thing (I find it hard to describe it as anything else) has just moored next to HMS Belfast here on London River. Cheek!

 

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/sep/06/russian-billionaires-superyacht-makes-waves-in-london

[herbgold]

Thanks, Spyglass. I did take them from the plan, the problem I had was measuring the extreme forward and aft ends where there aren't any easy reference points. I have just remeasured and my marker batten is actually spot on, to less than 1mm.

[Landlubber Mike]

From the TFFM series, the wale sorta flattens out at the stem and doesn't continue the upward sweep.  On my Pegasus, I found that this naturally happened given the curves at the stem so I didn't need any special bending or shaping.  If I remember correctly, this started happening halfway between the first gunport and the stem.  It's very slight though.

 

Here is why my log starts with the wale in case you're interested:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=329358

Edited September 7, 2016 by Landlubber Mike

[herbgold]

I think so, Mike, although it's very difficult to tell.  (I did read your log, and found it very useful. Especially the batten idea, as you see here.)

Edited September 7, 2016 by herbgold

[Landlubber Mike]

You sorta have to guess a bit where the wales end up at the stem - look at the head-on picture in the plans which might help.

 

Using the temporary batten to mark the run of the wales works nicely.  I wouldn't use it as a template to run the actual planking against.  It didn't really work out all that well for me.  Instead, I would think about running tape, etc., then marking the line of the wale.

 

One thing I did was rather than do the full second planking and add a 1mm strip for the wale was to use a 2mm strip for the wale directly on top of the first planking.  It made for a cleaner look I think rather than seeing partial planks above and below it.  If you don't have 2mm strips, you could always laminate two 1mm strips together.  

[herbgold]

Thanks again - I had thought of laminating two 1mm strips, and the trial soak and bend seems to work just fine.

Edited September 7, 2016 by herbgold

[herbgold]

Thanks, SpyGlass. I measured down from the very top of the gunport strip to the bottom of my temporary batten, and get 29mm, which I think equates pretty closely to your 23.35mm measured from your extrapolated line.

Edited September 8, 2016 by herbgold

[Martin W]

Just to add one more voice to this already insightful discussion, I'll reiterate that you can make precise measurements, but then as you eyeball the wales, you might just find that they sweep up too much.  That seems to be the tendency, and it's also why LL Mike's idea of using tape instead of a batten works well, since tape is easier to adjust.  In the end, I think everyone's wales ends up in a slightly different alignment.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[herbgold]

Just to say that I haven't given up in spite of my long absence from these hallowed pages... I started two new history courses and my time has been taken with reading and attending lectures.

 

I'll be back - probably not before next March!

Edited October 28, 2016 by herbgold