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Bluenose by LMDAVE - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64


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But, lets get back to the build. I did add one thing to the deck. The chain box. I think this is optional, but since a did have a pile of chain and no where to put it, I added it in. On the actual ship the chain was routed around the other side of the gear box, but it flowed better this way,

 

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Edited by LMDAVE
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Dave - I built my display case very similar to what you describe. But mine is 100% Plexiglas, much like a thin Aquarium. I have about 4" clearance from the top of the mast. I also created a wooden base and routed a nice edge around with a slight lip to hold the Plexiglas. I prefer to have nothing but the model showing. So there is no wood above the base. I also like your idea of the old block.

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Floyd, yeah plexi-glass probably would have made my case much lighter. I'm going to be happy about the my case looks, but getting the boat in and out may be a two or 3 person job.

 

Thanks Dave B, I plan steal what a previous builder (ThorBob) did for the other anchor. He made a neat jig for coiling the anchor rope and soaked it in a blackwash to give it a very used look, and have the anchor stowed on the deck. Too bad his build got lost with the website change. He should come back and repost finished pics.

Edited by LMDAVE
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Hi Dave,

 

Your Bluenose is looking very good. When it comes to drilling the holes for the screws I used finer thread sheet rock screws than the ones that came with the pedestals. I got mine from Bluejacket and they fit the hull just right. I drilled the holes in the base first and then put the pedestals and screws in place. I then placed the model into the slots and put a little downward pressure to mark where the holes had to be drilled. As others have suggested, I drilled small holes as well. I also squirted CA glue into the holes and let it dry. This made the wood of the keel stiffer and gave the screws a better bite.

 

I made the mistake of making my case out of 1/4" glass and it weighs a ton. I had it in a show recently and when I got home I noticed that a barrel had come loose during transit and when I tried to get the cover off I found I couldn't get my arms around it and still be able to lift it high enough to remove it. It is literally a 2 man job. Next time I will use 1/8" glass all around and maybe a bit heavier on the top to protect it from anything falling on top of it and breaking the glass. Having 1/4" glass on the side is overkill.

 

I really like the idea of displaying the block.

Edited by Jim L
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Wow Jim, 1/4" is pretty serious glass for that case! I bet it was heavy. I'm using just single strength window pane glass (3/32" thick). My box I made is approx 36" wide, 32" high, 12" deep. I guess I can post a pic considering I was trying to save it for the end, but this is without the ship.

 

406698414.jpg

Edited by LMDAVE
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My vintage block came in today, unfortunately its about twice the size I was expecting, no way can I fit this with the ship. However, it will be displayed somewhere in my nautical room. I'm going to do a slight restoration on it. Not sure I can sand out the deep burnt spots from the fire it was in, but it'll definitely be cleaned up and neater looking but still vintage looking. HAHA, I may use this pulley to raise my heavy display case.

 

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Edited by LMDAVE
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Thanks Jerry. It was actually pretty quick and easy. I hit all the metal with a wire brush on a drill, and just hand sanded all the wood with coarse sandpaper, the old paint chips on it were pratically falling off. I deliberitly didn't sand out all the old wood burn mark and imperfection so it would give it a vintage look. I taped up the wood and spray all the metal with Rustoeum flat black, and all I did to the wood was two coats of clear varnish. Ih, I did touch up that metal tag in the middle with some testors gold model paint. And that was it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Added more of the running and standing rigging. The standing rigging really gives it that final look. Getting close...

 

One of the lines, called the "flying" backstay, I was a little unsure of because I couldn't find many pics of it. It's a backstay but connected through rigging blocks, and had a hook. I think they would only use it in certain times (racing maybe). But, I have the line as black, up to the blocks, then the running part tan. Not quite sure if that looks right or not. I can easily change the long run to tan.

 

406937928.jpg

 

406937929.jpg

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Looking good Dave - you are getting there very cleanly.  I think you are right that the long part of the flying backstay would look more natural (no pun intended) in tan.  I'll have to see if I can get a definitive answer on that.  Maybe Floyd will chime in on this, or someone who has the Jenson book on Bluenose II.

 

Bob

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Bob - Its funny that you mentioned the Jensen book. As soon as I saw this post that is exactly what I went looking for. Still recovering from the move. Unfortunately I loaned the book to a club member and can't remember who. The only comment I can make is this - On my model (which was rigged when I did have that book) the line is tan. It does make sense. We all know that the lines that are black are that way because they were soaked in tar to discourage rats. And the running rigging was not so that it would go thru the blocks. In this case I seriously doubt a rat would be out there on what is essentially a running backstay. There is also the Sail to consider. No self respecting Captain would stand for ugly black stains on his biggest sail.

 

So I would vote for tan.

 

By the way all this wonderful work on the Bluenose has me thinking of breaking one of my cardinal rules and redoing mine. There is so much excellent work here!

Edited by Floyd Kershner
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Thanks guys, and good history lesson about the tar. I'll probably make the change sometime this weekend.

 

I see some Bluenose models with mixed black and tan all of the place, so it could have just been the builder's preference.

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Floyd:

I think you meant "rot" instead of "rats". Tar was a preservative for the rope. It needed protection from the elements.  

 

Dave, the rigging looks very good. One thing I would ask is was the standing rigging on this vessel wire or rope?

 

Russ

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Dave:

I would think that the flying backstay would be black and the tackle would be tan. That is how you would see shifting backstays. Since the standing part of the backstay is mostly structural, it would be black along with the shrouds and stays.

 

Russ

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I haven't been able to find any photos that show the flying backstay rigged, so I have nothing to add.  The plans I have don't specify a color either.  I don't know, it seems like having it set up would severely limit the range of motion for the main sail, so i am thinking about leaving it off - but I've still got some time to think about that.

 

I wonder how pendants on other ships were set up, tarred or not?  Looking forward to see how you handle it, Dave.

 

Bob

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Well, on the plans it shows the bottom block connects with a hook, which mean this line is stowed in a different position when not in use. And when I look at an old pic, I see the line stowed next to the ratline shrounds, it's connected to the eyebolt next to the main dead eyes. (see pic below, line just to the left of the word fly). And sure enough, if you go back to the plans, it points out that eyebolt as the stowed position of the flying backstay.

 

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This is a picture of the ship racing, I thought it would be used during racing, but maybe not.

 

SO, I guess I'm going to leave things as for color, but I could move it to the stowed position. I'll probably just leave it.

Edited by LMDAVE
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Nice find on the photo, Dave - a good bit of research.  Now I see a note on the plan by the eyebolt that reads "Stowed position of flying backstay p/s - belay fall to itself".  While it doesn't answer the question about color of the pendant, it makes me feel better about what they would do to allow the boom to swing out.  Thanks for posting the shot.  And keep up the good work - this has been a joy to watch!

 

Bob

Edited by bhermann
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Thanks Bob, this first wooden ship build has been such a fun journey, and my attention to detail for modelling is greatly improved.

 

One day I hope to get to the level that some of these advanced ship modelers are and the level that these guys get with railroad models. This is a video of artist Troels Kirk's ships on his coastline railroad. Just the details of all the building, docks, and boats, are so awesome to see someone get that detailed.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjJk1zdN-qs

Edited by LMDAVE
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Thank you for posting this build.  Bluenose is my next build- sitting at home right now waiting patiently while I finish what I'm doing.  You build is an inspiration.

 

 

 

Model Expo has figures that are 1:64. I used them and painted them for my crew

 

.FYI: They don't carry these any more.  They suggested I search the web for scale figures.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi all, sorry for anyone who was following this build, it's been a while since I updated. I was down to the forward ratlines and I put the boat in the display case when I went on vacation this past summer and yet to take it back out to finish it. The build looks great in the display but is missing the forward ratlines, I may take some pictures later. However, not sure when I'll ever finish that last step.

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