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Just wondered about the thoughts on how folks add blocks of balsa to a POB kit.

almost seems like folks might be better off with a solid hull as a base sometimes.

 

all the work to build the POB frame and then the work to also make and install all that blocking.

 

any thoughts on this ?

 

for ?

 

against ?

 

 

why do it ?

 

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Greetings Fig...

 

I agree with you: it does seem to be a waste of time, and if you want the security of a solid hull buy one and plank it over. You can accomplish a fair hull by using batten strips and save a lot of time over infilling with balsa. In fact, I haven't run across any instructions from kit manufacturers that suggest balsa infilling. They may be out there, but I haven't seen them.

 

wq3296

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I've seen logs on here where the builder has just placed blocks in the two bow and two stern PoB cavities. I believe this was done to add more structure to the planking in those areas and therefore more of a gluing surface. Not really sure why someone would want to fill in all the spaces between the bulkheads though.

Carl
 
 
Completed builds: AL Bluenose II 1:75  Gallery
                              Amati Hannah SIB 1:300  Gallery
 
Current Build: Bluenose II - SIB - unknown scale

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some do it just in places, some seem to try to get the deck filled to help that planking, if you look at the build logs you will see a number of variations.

 

I get the idea of some blocks to help make sure the squaring of the bulkheads is "true"

 

and the bow and stern "ends" are a place where all the kits tend to put blocks and that sure helps with the shaping and getting a solid mount for the planks there.

 

but in some they just seem to really go overboard IMHO

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Figuerres,

 

Having built several Plank on Bulkhead (POB) kits, some thoughts on the use of filler blocks:

  1. For POB hulls with widely spaced bulkheads filler blocks provide a more secure surface for planking
  2. For POB hulls with inaccurate bulkheads filler blocks provide a basis for fairing the hull
  3. I find fairing the hull with filler blocks to be faster than fitting/fairing shims
  4. I prefer to single plank the hull following period practice
  5. I have used bass wood for filler blocks 
  6. I also add deck filler blocks to reinforce plank endings and rigging points

On my current build of MS's Fair American, circa 1780 I chose to use filler blocks between the fwd/after bulkheads.  I was pleased with this approach which is illustrated below and described in the attached link:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7158-brig-fair-american-circa-1780-by-pete-jaquith-model-shipways-148-scale/page-1

 

Regards,

Pete

post-5855-0-11352200-1419358062_thumb.jpg

post-5855-0-81054200-1419358167_thumb.jpg

Edited by Pete Jaquith

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

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Figuerres,

 

Having built several Plank on Bulkhead (POB) kits, some thoughts on the use of filler blocks:

  1. For POB hulls with widely spaced bulkheads filler blocks provide a more secure surface for planking
  2. For POB hulls with inaccurate bulkheads filler blocks provide a basis for fairing the hull
  3. I find fairing the hull with filler blocks to be faster than fitting/fairing shims
  4. I prefer to single plank the hull following period practice
  5. I have used bass wood for filler blocks 
  6. I also add deck filler blocks to reinforce plank endings and rigging points

On my current build of MS's Fair American, circa 1780 I chose to use filler blocks between the fwd/after bulkheads.  I was pleased with this approach which is illustrated below and described in the attached link:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7158-brig-fair-american-circa-1780-by-pete-jaquith-model-shipways-148-scale/page-1

 

Regards,

Pete

thanks for the reply, i have been looking at your build and like how it looks.

in looking back at how i started the first version of the FA build and at what i have learned in my own builds and all I am working out what things I see that i like and am looking to make my upcoming re-start of the FA better as a result of what i have seen and read and learned by my own work.

I do think that you comment about the spacing of bulkheads is important, to me it does seem as if the FA kit has a few odd chnages to where they put the bulkheads.

I am also seeing that the fairing of the hull could be one reason for adding some of the filler blocks as you say.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm only on my second build, but I kinda agree that in some cases, using the filler blocks seems overkill.  As Pete says, two big considerations are the widths between the bulkheads in the more difficult areas, and whether you are planning to double plank or not.  I can certainly see at the very front of the bow though that you might need something to attach the planks to.

 

I forget whether I used filler blocks on my Badger build, but for my current Pegasus build, I decided not to.  The kit has a fair number of bulkheads, with a good number spaced closely together at the bow.  The kit also had inserts that went between the bow bulkheads (and between the first bulkhead and the stem) to help give you something to rest planks on.  Since I'm planning to double plank and use filler, I think I can get away with not using them.  I also spent many hours fairing the bulkheads, constantly checking and rechecking things as I went along.  If you have the bulkheads faired appropriately, it probably lessens the need for filler blocks.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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