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HMS Pegasus 1776 by Glennard - Victory Models - 1/64th Scale


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I've been away for a few days, but managed to spend a bit of time today on HMS Pegasus and fitted the first plank. I used my plank bender to shape the planks and the fitting went very well.

 

It did required a little bit of sanding in a couple of places, once the glue had dried, to get a good smooth finish between the first plank top edge and the gun port strip. I will sand the hull properly and fill as necessary with filler / primer once I've finished the first planking 

 

I have a busy weekend so I will have continue with the planking next week.

 

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Today I was able to spend a little more time with the first planking. It seems to progressing quite smoothly at the moment.

 

Front end view

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Side view. To help fill in some of the gaps I have been mixing plank sawdust with watered down wood glue and then brushing the pulp into the gaps.

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It seem from this picture some of the planks are sitting really proud, this is not the case its a trick of the light casting shading.

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Edited by Glennard
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Continued on with the 1st planking today.

 

Bow end. This will look good once I've filled in the gaps with plank sawdust mixed with watered down wood glue and the bumps have been sanded smooth.

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Side View

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Stern view, I have trimmed the planks and test fitted the stern counter, and all looks good.

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I decided to add some planks from the keel.

 

Bow end, its not a great joint, looks worse in the picture than it actually is, can be easily be sanded smooth and filled without too much effort.

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Stern end, I have ensured the gap between the planks is an exact plank width at the stern

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Side view

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Edited by Glennard
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I would suggest you dont let the forrard ends of the lower planks rise as much.They need to run more or less "level"  Otherwise you will have a lot more trimming and fitting of the ones above.

If you have a look at the run of planks on Andy'd build you can see what I mean

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/24-hms-pegasus-by-realworkingsailor-victory-models/?p=72

Edited by SpyGlass
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Looks good, Glenn.  Spy's got a good point there.  The first planking doesn't have to look terribly tidy, and I wouldn't worry too much about the gaps yet.  This is the step where you can really see what happens at particular points along the hull, where gaps do want to appear, or where the planks tend to rise too high.  That's the knowledge you can put to work on the 2nd planking (detailed notes help).  And you'll be sanding this layer quite a bit, and that's where the smoothness appears.

 

The rows just below where you've gotten in these last pictures are the ones I had to work with the most, as that area along the stern makes for a sharp twist.  It's a real education . . .  and loads of fun!

 

I'm looking forward to your progress!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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I've continued with the first planking today and I thought I would share with method I have been using.

 

This is a picture of my untidy workshop, showing HMS Pegasus and my two HMS Victory builds [Caldercraft (on hold) and DeAgostini]

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My preference is to use peg board pins to hold the planks in place. I find these pins are easy to position and tap in place using a small hammer. These pegs are easy to remove and reusable. As can be seen I have used the kit supplied panel pins in a couple of places.

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Sometimes I do adopt different clamping methods to ensure the planks lay smooth together as can be seen in picture below

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And this is the end result when the pin are removed. HMS Victory has HMS Pegasus in her gun sights!

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Edited by Glennard
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Build Log Index

 

I have finally finished the first planking and I'm reasonably happy with the end result. It's not perfect but its more than good enough to accept the second planking.

 

I have also completed the initial sanding and the hull is now quite smooth, however there are still a couple of small areas to be filled and sanded before I'm ready to start the second planking. I'm just waiting for a delivery of some squadron white putty to complete this activity.

 

Here are some pictures

 

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Edited by Glennard
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Just a couple of points you might like to think about or you may have already planned for.

 

At the stern post positionyour first planking appears to be the width of the false keel  which is also the width of the stern post.

 

So you will have to take down the stern first planking down more to allow for the additional width of t second planking or that will stand proud of the stern post by a fair amount.  Personally I stop the first planking actually befor reaching the stern post and then thin the keel py further still. 

 

 

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 Also from the pics your first planking sits snugly against the false keel  - you may like to take the planking down there to form a rabbet to allow the second planking to sit nicely against the keel.

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Its also handy to give yourself a rabbet forrard against the stem - makes fitting second planking soooo much easier if you can tuck the end in!!

 

 

This is an old pic of a Fly build of mine with rabbets formed against the false keel , stem and stern post  All done just by sanding of first planking ( plus stopping the first planking short at the stern)

 

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Edited by SpyGlass
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Hello Spyglass

It may not be clear from the pictures but I did cut a rabbet for the first planking which certainly me helped secure the planking around the bow, please have a look on page 1 of my build log for details. I will probably extend rabbet for the second planking around the upper bow area since most of the lower hull will be covered with copper tiles (I had to fit over 3500 tiles on my Victory build!)

 

Hopefully this pictures show the 1st planking secured in the rabbet.

This one shows a very small area of the rabbet where part of the plank was fitted tad short in error

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I did also reduce the width around the stern accordance with the build instructions (also as shown on page 1 of my build log) which were checked with my vernier gauge however, as you have noted, the 1st planking still requires a tad more sanding around the keel to ensure the 2nd planking will sit flush with the stern post and stern false keel. I have done a bit more sanding in that area today.

Edited by Glennard
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Yeah the build instructions I think are actually duff on this point .

Quick maths - false keel and stern post are 5 mm  .

Without any sanding two layers of planks each side addup to  4mm - which means bringing the keel down to just 1mm.

 

i just preferred to stop the first planking short and feather it in as shown in my pics.

Thene you only need to bring the sternpost down to 3mm  - much easier to handle

 

Regarding the main Rabbet - I realised you had cut a rabbet for the first planking but hadnt caught you line that you intended to extend it !

 

I build my rather strange way of making the false keel etc removeable at first - mainly to make first layer sanding easier..

So when it comes to a rabbet for the final planking dont have to cut it - I just sand down the edges of the first planking hard which allows a nice curve into the keel.

As it happens I am just about to start seceond planking on my Pickle and am just at this stage - so if you have a quick glance at that log you will see what i mean

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Build Index

 

I have now finished the sanding (and filling) of the hull. I am really happy with the end result and the hull is now nice and smooth, and is ready to accept the second planking. I have also checked that the second planking will fit flush with the stern post and false keel. The stern counter has also been fitted without any problems. I have made a small rabbet slot for the second planking, it is not very deep but should help give a smooth edge to the second planking that terminates around the bow.

 

I treated myself to a new tool, an electric plank bender and after giving it a test concluded it gives a much smoother bend compared with my manual plank bending tool. It is more time consuming however providing I put a few planks in to soak in warm water for approx. 30 mins prior to start the actual bending process it is relatively quick.

 

My new tool

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I marked the position of the top of the wale on the hull and then started the second planking phase.

 

Pictures of the first row of planking

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First three row of planks

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Edited by Glennard
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I have made really good progress over the last couple of days and have completed the second planking of the hull. This will now require a bit of sanding to get a fully smooth finish but overall it has not turned out too bad. I now have to continue with the second planking from the top of the wale line to the top of the gun port strip. I expect this will be time consuming work as I have to clear the gun ports and oar openings as I go along.

 

I am now really looking forward to starting the next phase of the build in the next couple of weeks.

 

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A trick of the light makes the stern area looked bowed shape,  but this is not the case

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I have been able to spend some time on the boat build today and I've finally completed the second planking.

 

I'm happy with the end result and the hull will not require too much sanding or filling. The next task is to build the cannon assemblies which need to be fitted before the two upper decks can be fitted.

 

The bowsprit opening has been cleared

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I cleared the gun and oar port openings as I progressing with the planking

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The top of the stern counter planking has been correctly shaped in readiness for the fitting of the stern fascia, later on in the build.

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I removed the hull shaping studs and then completed the main deck planking. I'm just waiting for delivery (hopefully tomorrow) of the varnish I've ordered to protect the deck planking. I have also spend some more time sanding the hull. I just need to get some primer which I intend to apply to the hull to pinpoint any remaining defects which may need additional sanding (or filling).

 

I'm also debating weather to jump ahead and fit the copper plates before I move on to installing the various deck fittings.

 

I did decided to take a small excursion away from the instructions to enhance the build by installing some bulwarks around all the gun ports that are hidden by the upper decks. I have also painted the wooden frames red so everything will look better after the upper decks have been installed. In the attached pictures I have included some with the upper decks dry fitted.

 

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The wales have now been fitted to the hull. I have also assembled 10 cannons and glued them to the main deck. I have also glued more of the deck fittings.

 

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I have now glued the rear upper deck in position which I can start to plank once the glue has dried.

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