USS Constitution by CaptainSteve - Model Shipways - 1:76.8 scale

[CaptainSteve]

More sanding/shaping with the new toy last night.

The pinnace has been shaped almost to my satisfaction. Need to finish off the other three lifeboats now ...

[JeffT]

the boats are looking good. I haven't done any of the boats yet.

[capnharv2]

I agree. The boats are looking good. I like them because they are nice little projects that can be very satisfying.

 

I've got 2 boats started, one in primer, and I'll get back to them soon, since I'm doing final projects on the deck.

 

Harvey

[CaptainSteve]

the boats are looking good. I haven't done any of the boats yet.

 

Thanks Jeff. Glad that I can give something back.

 

 

... I like them because they are nice little projects that can be very satisfying.

 

I've got 2 boats started, one in primer, and I'll get back to them soon, since I'm doing final projects on the deck.

 

Harvey

 

I had to do something to keep my modelling addiction under control, Harv !!

Edited March 3, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[Geoff Matson]

I too am building the MS Constitution . Your boats look great I too used the dremel tool with the cutters to rough out the insides and outsides. THen finished sanded. I used some burrs from Disston. I found the cone shaped ones workd best on the insdie for me Geoff

Edited March 3, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[CaptainSteve]

Another early morning at the shipwright's table and now all four boats are mostly shaped to my satisfaction. At the last minute, I realised that the two whaleboats (front of pic) don't actually have a straight stern-post - the stern is curved almost exactly like the stems on these two boats. So they were hit with the toy one more time. 

 

There are four thin strips soaking in water. They will become the keels ...

Edited March 4, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

One of the many trials sent to test us ship-modellers is the problem of how to bend planks effectively.

 

In my pre-MSW days, I soaked the wood for a week or so, and then bent them gently over a soldering iron fixed to my vise. This method worked reasonably well, although there was a high fail-rate with planks that cracked (wood too dry/too much pressure), split (wood too wet), or burnt (iron too hot). Fortunately, my two previous projects were both double-planked kits !!

 

This time around, after reading a number of suggestions in the MSW forums, I decided to try the hair-curling iron method. I particularly like the clip it has which will greatly reduce the number of times I burn my fingers.

 

The strips for the keels on the ship's boats are very thin (1/16"), so it remains to be seen how effective this method is when it comes time to do the hull-planking. Some "crimping" did result, but again, this may have to do with the very small size. Nothing that a little sawdust-filler and light sanding won't fix ...

Edited March 12, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

As posted earlier, I have searched for some pics to show me the detail in long-boats of this era. Builds by Chuck and some others on MSW were exactly what I needed.

 

Going off the kit plans, it would probably be theoretically possible to upscale them and build a completely sea-worthy, functioning long-boat !!

 

I am a little concerned, however, as to exactly how much detail I can add - bearing in mind that these boats are 1/76 scale. I have no problem with installing floor-boards, thwarts, benches, keel, mast-step and masts/spars - these I consider to be crucial. And the blocks and cleats to enable rigging to the davits will also be necessary. Even the various sundry items (casks, ropes, oars, buckets, boat-hooks) will be done, as I feel these create a "lived-in" look.

 

My problem at this point is with the thwart knees, stern knees, apron as well as (and in particular) the internal frames. I seem to be experiencing real difficulty trying to get my head around scratch-building those with 1/32" strips !!!

 

Perhaps I just need to go back to work for the week, thus re-invigorating my desire to work on my model !!

Edited March 12, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

The weekend is here again and I have resolved to get back to work on my boats. All that has been done thru this week is that the keels have been attached and some more shaping has been done.

I mentioned above that the kit instructions suggested not attaching the base-plate piece to make shaping the insides easier. Sure wish I had listened to my own advice !!! Whilst I did do a fair amount before attaching these pieces, a lot more had to be done before I was happy with them. This was quite a chore whilst making sure that the sides were not sanded too thin.

In addition, I highly recommend checking out the group builds on MSW of the 18th Century longboats. There are a number of them, including Chuck's and Bob Riddoch's. I think my favourite, however, would be Mike Lonnecker's. In particular, his pics of the interior showing the keelson and ribs has helped me immensely.

More pics soon ...

Edited March 12, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

Using the curling iron, some minor crimping does occur ...

Edited March 10, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

Nothing a little sawdust and PA glue won't take care of ...

[CaptainSteve]

The hulls of my boats are now shaped to my satisfaction <phew>!!

 

I think that deserves a drink !!

 

In the fore-ground are some early attempts at making internal ribs ....

[JeffT]

well done! that must have been a lot of work considering that Jim Beam was the beverage of choice.

[CaptainSteve]

Jeff, it actually helps keep my one good eye straight.

 

Final pic for the weekend ...

Keelson pieces fitted. Ribs next.

(Anyone have a real good spare-ribs sauce recipe ??)

 

 

[CaptainSteve]

This arrived yesterday via courier. It was actually delivered by a driver from the very company I work for !!

I suspect it will slow my modelling down for a few days ... 

 

At top-left of above pic and this one, some dowels which I salvaged from an earlier kit (refer my MSW1 thoughts on Billings kits!!).

These are destined to become the masts/spars for my Connie's boats.

Edited March 12, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[CaptainSteve]

Progress has been slowed this last week - as predicted, blame Karl Heinz Marquardt.

 

For you history buffs, I thoroughly recommend this book. The information is highly detailed and it appears to me that ModelShipways got their hands on the same sets of plans for their kit as Karl has accessed. The additional level of detail Karl has covered in his book makes for an excellent addendum to the MS kit. 

But, Karl, baby, surely you could've included some colour pics!!

 

Personally, I will admit to having no more than a high-school knowledge of US history prior to buying my MS kit.

(Glad to see you guys finally got rid of Bush !!)

And despite doing as much research on the back-story of the USS Constitution as I could, I did once ask (on MSW1) why the ship's flag had 15 stripes.

(Numerous historically correct answers were provided. Thanks !!)

 

However, whilst this book has answered a number of questions, it has raised some, as well.

In particular, my intention is to build my Connie at the stage of her life which I consider to be her prettiest.

This would be the time immediately prior to that master tactician, Isaac Hull, having his wicked way with her !!

 

OK ... sure, I get it !!

By removing the stern windows to allow additional chaser guns was a master-stroke that allowed Connie to escape, thus setting the scene for her famous encounter the following month against HMS Guerriere.

But, I mean, she was soooo pretty !!!

 

Therefore, I plan on representing her with the stern window configuration of (circa) May, 1812.

However, Marquardt's book raises the question of how many windows. Basing his research on the Corne paintings, he offers five, six and eight window configurations. 

Although I prefer the 5-window set-up, six windows is also an option. 

Which do I build ???

(Thoughts, anyone ??)

 

For now, some minor progress with ribbing on the boats.

The curves are tighter than the curling iron is capable of producing, so working on a solution for that problem at the moment.

 

This is the first boat. These ribs were made by re-soaking the original attempts and shaping over the handle of my Exacto knife (plastic guard on first) ...

Edited March 21, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[JSGerson]

I've just discovered your build log and plan to follow it among others I've found on this Website. I plan to start my Connie project in a year or so soon after I finish the Mamoli Rattlesnake following Bob Hunt's practicum.  Yours is the first I've found where you plan on deviating from the MS kit plans and revert back to the way she looked prior to 1812, that and having electrified. I look forward to your future posts.

[Old Sea Dog]

Nice work

[capnharv2]

Looks great Steve!

 

Question-what are you using for the ribs on the ship's boats?

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[CaptainSteve]

Harv,

They are 1mm x 1mm strips soaked in a glass of water for 30mins or so. Some are from the kit, and the rest were left-overs.

Using my hair-curler, I turn them into "hoops" and then cut these into quarters to make the individual ribs.

Shorter pieces turned into half-hoops are cut to make two ribs.

 

Apply PVA, align each piece very carefully. I rely upon my one good eye to check they are square. Once glue has dried, trim off the excess with a pair of nail-clippers. 

 

However, I calculate that I am going to run out of strips after doing three boats !!! 

 

Thinking of a few options for the remaining ribs ...

 ... the first was inspired by Doris, a brilliant card-modeller here on MSW. Cardboard ribs may not taste as nice, but they will look authentic.

 ... the second idea is to use some thicker styrene strips. One advantage with these is that they bend easily.

 ... the third idea is to sand down some 2mm dia strips which have been salvaged from an old outdoor awning. 

 ... as this seems like waaay too much work, the final idea is to order some strips on-line.

Edited March 21, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[Geoff Matson]

Steve

 

I used the styrene when I made my boats and it worked out well. As you say easy to bend.When painted they all look the same.

[capnharv2]

Steve, Geoff,

 

I'm getting to that point on my boats. I was going to use styrene, but Steve's comment about card stock got me thinking about doing that. Maybe do one of each?

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[Geoff Matson]

Harvey

 

Just do a little experimenting and see which method works best for you. That is the nice thing about modeling. There are many different ways to the end result.

[capnharv2]

Thanks Geoff. That's what I'll do.

 

Harvey

[CaptainSteve]

Just as I thought, there were not enough to complete four boats.

 

This pic shows where I'm at after a weekend of ribbing.

 

The one last rib sitting forlornly on the steel ruler will go opposite the yellow planking clamp to complete the bow (or stern, I forget which with this pair) of the second whaleboat. Another two pairs are still required for the other end (stern/bow), as well as about 60 more (30+ pairs) for the deck-mounted pinnace.

 

Since I couldn't source the exact size of stryrene strip needed from my local hobby shop, I'm seriously considering the card option.

[CaptainSteve]

Steve

 

I used the styrene when I made my boats and it worked out well. As you say easy to bend.When painted they all look the same.

 

Geoff,

 

Would you mind posting some close-ups of your boats here ??

I think they will help a lot at this point.

[Geoff Matson]

Sure

 

Hope this helps out

 

 

Here are couple of pictures:

 

The stryrene bends easily and is ca glued in the boat.

 

 

Here is the interior a little further along

 

 

Here is all the boats with the interior and painted

 

 

 

The last picture shows what I made for the interrior.

 

Just play around with the styrene and see what happens.

Edited March 24, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[Geoff Matson]

Steve Thought this might help

Here is the Evergreen plastic that I used for the boats

I used evergreen styrene plastic for the interiors and it was:

Part no 112 .015 x .040 strips for the whaleboat footlings,

Part no. 122 .020 x .040 strips for the pinnace & whaleboat ribs, pinnace floorboards, pinnace & whaleboat gudgeon and pintle,

Part no. 124 .020 x .080 strips for the pinnace footing, pinnace caps, pinnace, oarlocks, Part no.131 .030 x .030 for the pinnace thwarts, waleboat rising.

Part no. 9010 .010 sheet for the pinnace portable pannel

Again, just check the plans and see what you need.

Edited March 24, 2013 by Geoff Matson

[CaptainSteve]

Geoff,

 

This information and your pics are brilliant.

Thanks!!

 

I have picked up various sized styrene strips over the last two trips to my favourite hobby store, so will start with those.

 

I hereby declare that my next short-term goal will be to replicate your last pic!!

(Sorry folks ... but this is gunna take a few week-ends)

 

Question: I noticed from that last pic that you have mounted your keels. Though I must admit to preferring this look, Marquardt's book suggests that these two, as well as the deck-mounted pinnace(s), had the keels stored onboard.

Edited March 25, 2013 by CaptainSteve

[Geoff Matson]

Steve

 

Glad I could help you out. The only bad thing about all the stuff that goes in the boat is that it really hides the interrior of the boat.   You might want to thin out the boat details. If I had to do t over I would not put so much detail in the boats.

 

As for the keels I put the one on the big boat so it would fit in the chocks over the hatch covers. And the other three will be hanging over the sides so I put them on also.

 

I am building the Conny following Bob Hunts practicum and taking alot of information off the plans.

 

Good luck with the boats!