Bounty Launch by Canute - Model Shipways - 1/16 - Small

[Canute]

Greetings all,

 

My first foray into building a wooden vessel is this gem. I've been lurking a little while, as I've been evaluating my tool chest and selecting this build. Over the years, I've done any number of wooden structures and car kits, as a model railroader. Thought I should learn how to twist straight boards into boats aka planking.

 

In my prior endeavors, we sealed and stained before we put any glue on any surfaces. Plus we had to fight warping wood ( due to using water based paints) with extra bracing. Should I treat the wood before any construction? Since this is primarily a basswood boat, should I apply some MinWax preconditioner? How about the cherry frames? Since I'll have to soak these to bend them, I suspect they get taken care of after the boat come off the mold.

 

A few of the obligatory pix are attached:

 

Kit box

Some of the wood

Edited November 26, 2014 by Canute

[Keith_W]

Hey Ken, great to see another Bounty Launch model. No need to precondition the wood before using it. My only suggestion is to stain the wood prior to using, if you plan to stain and not paint.

[Canute]

Gents, thanks for the likes. It's been too long. Between the holiday and some real world "gotta do's", I have accomplished zilch in the ol' boatyard.

 

Keith, that started me thinking about the boat's colors. Right now, I'm planning to stain the frames and such a Golden Oak. Show the wood off. Ala Cap'n Steve.

 

Do I paint the outside stock (meaning as specified in the instructions) or do I do something different. This launch is a typical ship's boat of the late 18th Century, isn't it. Would the Captain use it as his "Barge"? I'm leaning towards a Forest Green in place of the grey. Would that shade be appropriate?

 

I have a sharp knife and chisel and will begin the rabbet on the keel tomorrrow. The keel segments are glued up under a short section of used rail, about 15-20 pounds, to reduce the likelihood of warping.

Edited December 19, 2014 by Canute

[Canute]

Finally, I cut the rabbet into the keel.

I cut it as a symmetrical groove, since the pictures I've been looking at all seemed to be configured so. But, while testing it with my trusty 1/16" scrap plank, I sensed that the rabbet should not be symmetrical. The plank edges should lay in the rabbet.

Here's the rabbet:

 

My tester:

 

Copied the stem tapering pattern onto some 90# card stock.

 

I also started fitting the molds. They're loose right now.

 

Looking at the transom board, what were they thinking when they lasered the label onto it? I think I'm going to thin it and lay some nice boards over it.

 

Lessons learned: Keep the cutting edges sharp. I love the nice, thin slice that sharp #17 blade can make for cutting rabbets.

More light in that dungeon of a work space - actually a corner of my utility room. These old eyes aren't Hawkeye anymore.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

Edited December 19, 2014 by Canute

[mattsayers148]

Hey Ken, I'm new to this site and am doing this same build. I checked around about the ways to bend the frames, the soak (I soaked mine for a couple days) and soldering iron stem works great, you just have to constantly move(rub) to avoid burning. I decided to do them in one long piece for both sides and managed to break not one frame. Good luck, Matt.

[Canute]

Captain Steve, thanks for the like. Matt, thanks. Since you've done a couple of builds prior to this boat, you're "highly experienced."    This is build #1 for me.

 

I managed to get a little time in the 'yard to work on my rabbet, amongst all the holiday preps. Got that groove reoriented, but then I puzzled over how to sweeten up the surfaces of the rabbet. I have some thin, square sanding sticks that only have grit on 2 opposing sides, so I'm proceeding with "all due diligence" to make a nice smooth inside of the rabbet. I'd like my planks to nest into the keel nicely; no gaps to sink the boat.

 

Looking ahead to constructing the mold; did anyone add extra bracing on the mold to hold the frames perpendicular to the false keel or will the 1/8" x 1/8" braces be sufficient. As a model railroader, I tend to approach bracing with a "belt and suspender" mentality. No such thing as too much bracing; sort of like having too many clamps.

 

Thanks for looking.

[CaptainSteve]

Ken,

I did add additional braces to the frame molds ... but I think they were removed as they were just getting in the way.

[Canute]

CaptainSteve, thanks. I'm cutting the 1/8" bracing to 1 1/32" lengths. I'll just chop off a few more to experiment.

 

Ship building sure does exercise the brain cells.

[CaptainSteve]

Ken,

Just spot glue 'em in place for now ... that way they will be easy to remove later.

Edited December 23, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[mattsayers148]

Hey Ken, I added extra bracers as well. I like to work on my lap, so I added more than most so I wouldn't crush it.

Also take your time when fairing, I would start in the middle to get a feel for it since it takes very little compared to the ends.

 

Also I'd put a big sticky note that says "WAX!" I had tacked on the ends of the frames to the jig, when I realized I forgot to WAX between frames and jig, that would have been a nightmare.

Good luck and ask away we're all here to help.

 

Matt

 

PS: I soaked my frames a or two before I planed on the bending them.

Edited December 23, 2014 by mattsayers148

[Canute]

Captain Steve and Matt, thanks. I think I'll be adding the extra braces for the stem and stern mold frames. The rest of them  look solid enough  for the fairing. The glue on the mold frames is drying overnight. I'll probably add the bracing tomorrow, even though it is Christmas Eve. The Admiral is working the night shift, so I should be able to get some time in the 'yard.

 

I did the stem taper with the plan template, my dividers and a little contour template I cut out of the plan. I copied the appropriate section of the plan onto card stock; right above the cutout template was the dimensions and shape of the keel cross section. I marked out the stem with the template, marked the depth to be removed with my dividers and then slowly sanded the stem down, using the contour template to check my progress. The stem looks better than my picture shows.

 

My card stock templates: 

 

Tapered stem:

 

Thanks for the fairing tip; I would probably have started on it like eating corn on the cob, from one end.    And I already got some wax for the mold frames.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

[augie]

Just came across your log, Ken and wanted to wish you luck on your first wooden ship build.

 

Just one comment.  I've worked quite a bit with basswood from MS.  I always use a pre-stain on it if it is to be stained.  It cuts down on blotchiness that you can run into without it.  Also, Golden Oak, as is, is pretty dark.  You might wish to consider cutting it down to 30-50% with a natural stain before applying.  As with any finish, it's best to make a sample of what you want to do before committing to the entire model or section. 

[Canute]

Augie, thanks for the comment.

I've been collecting a number of stains and was planning on testing them all on the kit wood remnants. After reading through any number of the other build logs, I can see the wisdom of doing so. Helps to minimize surprises.

 

Should be installing the 1/8" braces today, too.

[Canute]

Well, the braces set up nicely, so fairing commenced, from the middle outwards, checked frequently with a batten strip. Nice, smooth edges.    I attached the transom horses and stem supports (Butt joints, really). Today, I plan to attach the keel "clips" and work on the transom.

[mattsayers148]

Movin right along Ken, this is one phase that you can take some time on, it makes a huge difference when planking. Read instructions, I think it says not to fair transom and first three molds until after framing is done.

I look forward to seeing more photos, happy sanding!

Matt

[Canute]

Matt, I'm most definitely going slow with this. I double and triple checked that I wasn't fairing the first 3 molds, although I may have nicked #3 with a sander stick. #4 thru 15 molds are faired, but being an anal FWIC type, I keep re visiting the molds, running my thumb over them. Sort of fine tuning the fine tuning.   

I added the stem pieces and horses last night. I'm sanding the horses down slowly so that the transom will lay across all 3 parts in a line. It's not there yet. I toyed with taking a Dremel sander to it, but realized I might overdo it. Soo, slow and steady she goes. Patience, grasshopper.

 

I may just tape some coarser sand paper to a flat stick to speed this part up. Decisions, decisions.

[mattsayers148]

Yeah I had my heart skip a beat a few times during fairing, it's like prepin a car for a paint job, you'll be so glad you took your time when the planks start going on. Good luck!

 

If you haven't already, take the fairing past the sheer tabs, if you don't the frames can twist straight at the sheer line, which is real hard to fix later.

 

Matt

[Canute]

Matt,

it was touchy sanding around the sheer tabs, but I think the mold looks pretty good. No bumpy spots. The frames will be twisted in the appropriate directions, when I put them on. Did you say you ran the frames from side to side or just do one side at a time?

 

The transom is next. I don't think I'll use the kit part. Lose the billboard, but also the taper amount.  I think I'll trace the piece on a 1/8" blank and then plank it with 1/4" x 1/32" planks.

[mattsayers148]

Hey Ken,

 

I did my frames one piece, sheer line to sheer line and an inch or so past the tabs. Remember too when applying the wax, be careful how far you put it past the sheer line. This is because you'll need to tack glue tip of frames to the jig after everything is dry. I put the wax too far down and had to very carefully sand jig and back of frame to make it stick.

 

I marked the middle, to line up with keel, and rubbed the middle with my soldering iron to start a slight bend. Then slid through slot, clamping one side while rubbing rapid enough to not burn other side, and as steam heats up frames, bending will become much easier, then did other side.

 

Matt

[CaptainSteve]

Ken,

Just a quick note to add to Matt's advice ...

One thing which I found particularly helpful was to pay close attention to the run of the wood grain. The frames will bend a lot easier (and break a lot less) one way, than the other.

Edited December 30, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[Canute]

Matt and Cap'n Steve, thanks for the info. More technique for my growing bag o' tricks!

I'm searching my stash of basswood, down in the basement, for the appropriate wood sizes. As a card carrying, kit-building model railroader, I accumulated a fair pile. Also a lot of plastic strip. Anyway, I plan to redo the transom. That laser etch label just bugs me.

 

The Shipyard HM Cutter Alert kit showed up yesterday. I have this thing for 10-16 gun cutters.    I'll need various thicknesses of cardboard to add body to the kit parts, when I start on this little jewel.

[CaptainSteve]

Anyway, I plan to redo the transom. That laser etch label just bugs me.

 

 

I still cannot understand the thinking behind that TRANSOM label ?!?!?

I mean, it's not likely that anyone would confuse it for any other part in the kit !!

 

You can get away with planking over it. I used those thin veneer strips .. like the ones used in many kits as second-planking.

(O'course, I scratched and stained mine up first)

Edited December 30, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[Canute]

Cap'n, what were they thinking?

 

Good call on the veneer. I'm off to my local big box hardware stores to seek out any and all manner of supplies, mostly stains. I've added it to the list. I may have a better shot with my little hole-in-the-wall "Ace Hardware". They carry number drills and brass shapes, along with the usual hardware stuff. We shall see. Wish me good hunting!

[mattsayers148]

Hey Ken,

 

I've only been using minwax stain. It's helped out exceptionally well to prevent glue from going where you don't want it.

 

This kit I stained everything before use, you just need to sand off where you want the glue to stick, the rest wipes of clean. Hope that helps. Also you can change the appearance(shade) by degree of sanding. The finer you sand, the lighter it will be.

 

Good luck, Matt

[Canute]

Matt, Minwax is my stain of choice, too.

I did a quick test of conditioned and unconditioned basswood with some Natural and Golden Oak stains. The conditioned wood is on the upper side of the board, my hen scratch shows the color swatches:

I like the Golden Oak after conditioning the wood, the natural was too light. Applying the Golden Oak to untreated basswood was just too brown; I want to show the sun-bleached wood. Several other stains I have on hand are just too dark already. So, my plan is to pre-stain the insides of the planks before shaping and bending. If the process lightens the stain, I'll re apply.

 

I'm working on the transom with a buddy who builds high end doll house furniture as one of his side "businesses". The transom will get some veneer applied; I think the planking should cover it.

[mattsayers148]

Hey Ken,

 

I like your color selection, it will make your detailed work stand out. Can't wait to see it applied. Good luck!

 

Matt

[Cathead]

I found that using a flat metal file with one dull edge worked really well for fairing past the sheer tab. I held it vertical along the mold, with just a slight twist to the wrist, and was able to finish the fairing all the way down pretty consistently. The dull edge is important so it doesn't saw a notch into the tab.

[Canute]

Cathead, good thought. I ended up using some sanding sticks I got from MicroMark some time back. These skinny sticks only have grit on 2 opposite sides; theother sides are clean. I got right up to the sheer tab and faired the forms that way. I did see the beginnings of a notch in places, but it's not the most critical surface.

Still playing with fixing the transom board.

[Canute]

Sort of been on hiatus, due to a nasty head cold. Mostly scheming and dreaming. I do have some thin basswood on order, so I can jump onto the transom fix.

 

I did get a belated, surprise Christmas present of a Mamoli Constitution cross section. More fun!

[mattsayers148]

Hope you feel better soon.

 

Matt