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    Southport, North Carolina USA

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  1. I have just looked at your build of the Marina II.  What an excellent job you did on this model.  I am just starting it and your build log is a wonderful reference for me.  Thank you for the build log.


    Further, I want to try to replicate your stand.  Could you tell me what material you used and the size of the stock you used?


    Thank you in advance.

  2. Messis, I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship. If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built. In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
  3. If you are unsure about the CA holding the blocks in place use 5 minute epoxy instead. Once cured the mast would break before the block would come loose. However, as I said previously I have built 7 ships and have not had a block secured with thick CA come loose. I have had the brass wire break because I had wound it too tight. The photo gives me the impression that this is a metal mast which probably meant the blocks were somehow bolted on to the mast in real life. Very difficult to simulate in scale and there probably would have been no wrapping involved.
  4. Christos, It is indeed my pleasure to be able to pass on the lessons I have learned from members of this site as well as those based on my personal experience. Enjoy the hobby. Happy Holidays to you.
  5. I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
  6. I found the answer to my problem in the sticky about activity streams by Chuck. When I performed a search for this information I came up blank, probably another user error. Paul
  7. I have two custom activity streams. One was set up when the conversion took place a while back. I subsequently have created another custom activity stream that removed some of the topics I had in the old one. When I log in the old activity stream shows up and I would prefer the new one show up instead under the search bar. I thought if I could delete the old one the new one would show up instead but I do not know how to delete the old one. Any suggestions? Thanks, Paul
  8. Another alternative is to use either auto pin striping tape or tapes available from chartpak in the width you want. I used chartpak tape for the waterline on the Bluenose II that I built 35 years ago and it still looks as good as the day it was put on. I used clear lacquer to coat the tape once installed. As is typical, I responded half way through a thought and assumed you would know where I was. Let me make myself clear on this. I did not paint a waterline, I used tape instead of paint for the waterline.
  9. A very nice model 1:24 scale about 15" long. Do not attempt this kit unless you are comfortable doing a lot of painting. Every single piece of this model has to be painted and some painted two or three times. Other than that, a relatively easy build. Paul
  10. bogeygolpher

    Transport of a ship

    In support of Dan's answer. My son made a 12 hour driving trip from North Carolina to New Jersey with 2 ship models in the back of a Mustang. One was on the back seat secured by seatbelts and the other was on the back seat floor surrounded by pillows all around to prevent any movement. Some other important points. The models were secured to stands with screws into the hulls. Further, the stands were also secured to the bases of their display cases with screws. There was absolutely no damage at all. Paul
  11. I think your CA might be old (it will go bad) or you are putting too much into the joint, or the temperature was too cold. Less is more when using CA. I have put CA on the tips of every plank I have ever installed installed using PVA everywhere else on the plank with great success and not had to use any pins (nails) or clamps. Of course I did over bend the planks as well as use the electric plank bender directly on the joint to set the glue faster. Enjoy, it is always a learning experience. Paul
  12. bogeygolpher

    Masting a ship

    Your rigging will secure it in place.
  13. bogeygolpher

    Masts and spars off-site ?

    From "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, page 77, "Before we step the masts. we'll attach all the necessary rigging". That is exactly what I have done for the 9 ships I have built and cannot imagine doing it any other way. I tie the blocks and lines onto the yards, then put the yards onto the masts and install as many lines as are possible, labeling them and letting them hang loose. Agreed, it looks a mess when the masts are finally stepped however I am convinced it is a lot easier to do as much as is possible off the ship rather than after the masts are in place. Paul
  14. Thank you. I read your post previously but did not think of in terms of my problem. DUH on my part.

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